Barrie Home Inspector

Home Maintenance and Tips for Home Owners

Month: September 2011

Septic Tank Inspection

Plumbing

Septic Tank Inspection. Because the septic tank and drainfield at a property are buried, thus hidden from view, because these components are expensive to replace, and because a costly problem can be present but not obvious, it is important to understand the septic system and to inspect and test it when buying a property served by its own private septic tank.
Septic systems include buried septic tanks (sewage tanks) and drainfields – expensive and hidden from view such as in the photo at left. This document provides advice for home buyers who are buying a home with a private septic system: homes using a septic tank and drainfield or similar soil absorption system.
Other chapters of this guide explain what goes wrong with septic systems, 5-recommends and describes septic inspection and test methods in more detail, explains how to be sure your septic inspection and septic test are conducted properly, tells you where to get more septic system information about a given property, and warns of unsanitary or dangerous site conditions.
If you need to know how to install a septic system, or if you find that you have a sewage pit (cesspool) this website provides articles explaining those topics too.

Home buyers ask us these questions about septic systems:

• What is a Septic Tank?
• What is a Leach Field?
• How does a septic system work?
• What does the existing septic system consist of at my new home?
• Do I have a Cesspool or Drywell?
• How do I know if the septic system is working properly?
• What septic inspections and tests should I have performed when I am buying a home?
• How long will a septic system last?
• Is septic system maintenance necessary?
To help buyers obtain the necessary information to address these questions, we have put together this document to guide them in making informed decisions regarding the potential problems and costs associated with a property’s septic system.
2-YOU NEED TO KNOW AND DO: How Septic Systems Work. Here is the minimum you need to know and what you need to do (or have done) when buying a property with a septic system
Our sketch below shows the second major portion of a septic system: the effluent disposal or drainfield or soakaway bed that disposes of clarified effluent liquid waste that leaves the septic tank.
So how does a septic system work? A private onsite septic system means that the waste from your building drains (sinks, showers, toilets) goes into a septic tank which retains the solids and lets the effluent flow into the soils on the property.
Properly designed and installed these systems are functional and sanitary. Private septic systems serve more homes in the U.S. and many other countries than any other waste disposal method. But the components are costly and do not have an indefinite life.
Because of the potential repair/replacement costs involved, and because the system is buried and cannot be exhaustively inspected and tested, you want to do what you can to evaluate the condition of the septic system before you complete the purchase of the property.
Here’s what to do: If you are buying a home with a septic tank and drain field, here’s what you need to do, as succinctly as possible. Each of these steps is described in more detail below, and in even more detail in linked-to documents.

Steps 1 and 2 are essential. Step 3 is usually a good idea. Step 4 depends on the results of steps 1,2,3 but is usually a good idea. Step 5 is not usually done but might be necessary. Step 6 is what you do if you’re being really thorough.

Synonyms for “septic system” used by the general public include septic waste system, sewage systems, and water sewage systems, even Roman sewage systems. All of these refer to onsite systems which hold and separate sewage waste from its liquid effluent which is treated further and then disposed-of by any of a variety of means which we will discuss. At this site we also discuss special considerations for handling septic waste such as garbage disposal septic tank waste volume and what to do about it. Perform these steps in the order we list them. (For example, don’t pump the tank before a loading and dye test.)

1. Ask About the Septic System – where is it, what’s installed, what’s the service and repair history
2. Make a Visual Site Inspection for signs of trouble. If you can find the tank, for safety, be sure that there is no evidence of collapse or subsidence on the property, and be sure that the septic tank (or cesspool, or drywell) has a safe cover so that no one can fall into the tank. See SEPTIC TANK COVERS for details.
3. Perform a Septic Loading & Dye Test to see if it produces evidence of a failure. Hire a home inspector who knows how to perform and will include this test.
4. Pump the Septic Tank and inspect for additional clues, depending on what you learned at 1,2,3.
5. Additional Septic System Physical Investigation might be needed
6. Get Outside Information Sources about Septic Systems if you’re being really thorough
7. Neighboring Septic System Problems – advice for dealing with a neighboring septic system producing odors or seepage

CMHC – Well and Septic Inspections

Plumbing

CMHC – Well and Septic Inspections.  Buying a House With a Well and Septic System

In rural areas, many homes do not have connections to municipal water and sewer lines. Homeowners rely upon privately owned or communal (shared) wells as their drinking water source, and individual septic systems to treat and discharge their wastewater. Homeowners must ensure that their well water is safe to drink, and that their well and septic systems are properly maintained. A malfunctioning well or septic system can pose a health risk to your family and neighbours, and can be expensive to repair or replace. It is therefore important to conduct a detailed inspection of both the well and septic systems prior to purchasing a home. This document will describe how well and septic systems function and how to inspect them.

Wells

When you are purchasing a home with a private water supply (a well), there are three key items to consider:

well system
water quantity
water quality

Well Systems

There are three common types of wells: dug, bored and drilled.

Dug and bored wells (60 – 120 cm/24 – 48 in. diameter) are commonly used to produce water from shallow surface aquifers (less than 15 m/50 ft. deep); and are prone to contamination from surface water infiltration and to water shortages (see Figure 1). An aquifer is an underground formation of permeable rock or loose material, which can produce useful quantities of water when tapped by a well. Another type of well used in surface aquifers is a sand point well (2.5 – 5 cm/1 – 2 in. diameter), which is a pointed well screen connected to a small diameter pipe driven into water-bearing sand or gravel.

Figure 1: Dug well

Drilled wells (10 – 20 cm/4 – 8 in. diameter) are commonly used to penetrate deeper aquifers (15 to greater than 60 m/50 to greater than 200 ft. deep), are more costly to construct, but generally provide a safer source of drinking water (see Figure 2).

Figure 2: Drilled well

Common features of well systems include:

Casing — structure around the well hole, which keeps it from collapsing. It could be a steel casing, concrete rings or an open hole in the bedrock.

Inlet — allows water to enter the well from the bottom. There might be a screen at the inlet to prevent fine particles from entering the well and a foot-valve (check valve) to maintain the system’s prime and pressure.

Pumping system — includes pump, piping and necessary electrical connections to pump water from the well into the house, and a pressure tank to maintain constant water pressure in the house. Submersible pumps are usually used in drilled wells, while shallow wells usually use centrifugal pumps, which are located out of the well, most likely in the basement or in a pump house.

Surface protection — prevents surface water and contaminants from entering the well. It includes a watertight seal placed around the casing (annular seal), a well cap 0.3 – 0.4 m (12 – 16 in.) above the ground, and mounded earth around the top of the well casing to divert rainwater.

Well Inspection Checklist

The well should be inspected before the house is purchased. If there is a problem with the physical state of the well (for example, cracked seals, settled casing) contact a licensed well contractor to correct the problem. Check the Yellow Pages™ under “Water Well Drilling and Service” to find a local licensed well contractor.

Well record — Obtain a copy of the well record from the owner or the Ministry of the Environment. This should include: location of well, date of well drilling, depth and diameter of well, static water level, pumping water level, recommended pumping rate and the recommended pump setting.
Location — A well should be located at least 15 m (50 ft.) from any source of contamination if the casing is watertight to a depth of 6 m (20 ft.); otherwise, the separation distance should be at least 30 m (100 ft.). Sources of contamination include: septic systems, manure storages, fuel storages, agricultural fields (manure or fertilizer runoff), and roads (salt runoff). Wells should be located at least 15 m (50 ft.) from a body of water (see Figure 3).
Well cap — The cap should be at least 0.3 m (12 in.) above the ground. The well cap and seal should be securely in place and watertight. A locking cap would give some added security against tampering. Well caps are on drilled wells and well covers are on dug wells. Both types should be inspected.
Well casing — No cracks or settling of the casing should be visible. The ground should slope away from the casing.
Drainage — Surface water should drain away from the well and water should not pond around the well casing.
Well pump — The well pump and distribution piping should be in good condition.
Grass buffer — A permanent grass buffer of a minimum 4 m (12 ft.) width should be maintained around the well head. Fertilizers and pesticides should not be applied to the grass buffer.
Abandoned wells — All abandoned wells on a property must be decommissioned (plugged) by a licensed well contractor. Ask the owner if there are any abandoned wells on the property and if they have been properly decommissioned.
Inside the house — Check for sand or grit in the faucet strainer which indicates a corroded well screen. Verify that the pressure tank reads between 250 to 400 kPa (40 and 60 psi). Ensure that the check valve (or foot valve) is able to sustain the system pressure by drawing no water for 30 minutes to an hour and monitoring the pressure. The pressure should not drop nor should the pump start up during this dormant period.

Figure 3: Well separation distances

Water Quantity

Wells draw water from aquifers, which are zones of saturated permeable soil or rock. Some types of soil make for good aquifers, such as gravel and fractured bedrock that can support high water pumping rates, while other types of soil make for poor aquifers, such as silty sand and clay that cannot support high water pumping rates.

Wells can run dry for the following reasons:

The pumping rate is higher than the groundwater recharge rate.
The water table (level of saturated water in the soil) has dropped to below the pump suction or inlet.
The well screen has become plugged by fine sand, chemical precipitation, bacterial fouling or corrosion.
If a well vent becomes blocked, a negative pressure may occur (in the well) during draw down and reduce or stop the pump from drawing water.
If there is a water supply problem, a licensed well contractor should be consulted. Solutions may include: water conservation in the home, digging a deeper well, unplugging a fouled well screen or replacing a corroded well casing or screen. The cost of fixing the problem should be considered when negotiating the sale price for the home.

There are three sources of information to help determine if a well can produce a sufficient quantity of water:

local knowledge
well record
water recovery test

Local Knowledge

The best indication of whether there is sufficient water supply is to ask the owner, neighbours or local well drillers if there have been any problems with wells running dry on the property and in the area. Generally, shallow wells are more likely to have problems with water shortages than deep wells, as shallow wells draw water from surface aquifers, which can fluctuate greatly depending upon the amount of precipitation.

Well Record

Obtain a copy of the well record from the previous owner or the Ministry of the Environment. The pumping water level indicates if the well is shallow or deep (less than 15 m/50 ft. is considered a shallow well). The recommended pumping rate should be greater than 14 L/min (3.6 US gal/min).

Water Recovery Test

A licensed contractor can be hired to conduct a recovery test which involves pumping water out of a well and then giving it time to recharge. This can help you determine how much water you can draw from the well. A well should be able to pump 14 L/min (3.6 US gal/min) for 120 minutes or 450 L/person/day (119 US gal/person/day). Source: MOE, Procedure D-5-5, 1996.

Water Quantity Checklist

Ask the owner, neighbours or a local well contractor if there have been any problems with the well or area wells running dry.
Verify the depth of the well and pumping rate from the well record. A surface well is more likely to run dry in times of drought.
Have a licensed well contractor conduct a recovery test, if necessary.
Water Quality

The quality of the well water is very important. Poor water quality can lead to health problems, unpleasant taste and odour, costly treatment systems and/or the costly use of bottled water. Well water can be contaminated with bacteria and chemicals. Common sources of contamination include: infiltration from septic systems, manure runoff, pet waste, road chemicals as well as dissolved chemicals naturally present in the groundwater such as calcium, sulphur, chloride or iron.

Water Sampling

Your offer of purchase should always include a requirement that closing is conditional upon an acceptable water quality evaluation. It would be ideal to take three water samples, about a week apart, with one of the samples taken after a rainstorm when surface water contamination is most likely. If possible, take the water samples yourself. The three samples should be analyzed for: total coliform, E. coli, and nitrate while one of the samples should also be analyzed for: sodium, hardness, sulphate, chloride, lead, iron, manganese and pH. Ask the laboratory to indicate the drinking water standards along with the results. Additional analyses can be conducted including: metals scan, pesticides if the well is in an agricultural area with heavy pesticide use, or gasoline and solvents if the well is near a gas station or industrial area.

Contact your local public health office for instructions on where to obtain appropriate sterile sampling bottles and where to submit water samples for testing. Bacteria and nitrate are analyzed free of charge in some provinces through local public health or Ministry of Environment offices, while the additional parameters will have to be analyzed at a private analytical laboratory for a fee.

If possible, samples should be taken from a tap between the well pump and any water treatment units and/or pressure tank. Follow the directions on the sample submission form for proper water sampling procedures.

Test Results — What Do They Mean?

If concentrations are higher than the limits described below, consult a water treatment systems supplier to determine if a water treatment technology is appropriate. It is preferable to get several quotations.

Health Indicators

Escherichia coli (E. coli) or Faecal Coliform

These bacteria are found only in the digestive systems of humans and animals. Their presence in your well water is usually the result of contamination by manure or human sewage from a nearby source such as a septic system or agricultural fields. Drinking water contaminated with E. coli or faecal coliform causes stomach cramps and/or diarrhoea as well as other problems and can even cause death. The drinking water standard for both E. coli and faecal coliform is 0 counts/100 ml. A value of 1 or more indicates that the water is unsafe to drink.

Total Coliform

This group of bacteria is always present in manure and sewage, but is also found naturally in soil and on vegetation. The presence of these bacteria in your well water may indicate that surface water is getting into your well. A total coliform value of 1 – 5 suggests that the safety of the water is doubtful, while a value of greater than 5 indicates that the water is unsafe to drink.

Nitrate

The presence of nitrate in your well water is usually the result of residential yard or agricultural fertilizers, or seepage from septic systems. Infants less than six months old can become sick from drinking formula made with water high in nitrate (greater than 10 mg/L). If you have an infant less than six months old, it is recommended to use bottled water.

Sodium/Potassium Chloride

Individuals who are on a sodium- (salt) reduced diet should consult with their physician if the level of sodium in their well water exceeds 20 mg/L. Domestic water softeners typically use sodium chloride and this increases the level of sodium in the drinking water. Potassium chloride is an alternative to sodium chloride for softening water. However, individuals suffering from hypertension, kidney disease or congestive heart failure should consult their physician prior to using drinking water containing high levels of sodium or potassium. A separate, unsoftened water supply (by-passing the water softener) can be installed for drinking and cooking purposes if sodium or potassium is a health concern.

Sulphate

At concentrations above 500 mg/L, sulphate can have a laxative effect and give a bitter taste to the water.

Lead

Lead concentrations in water are likely due to lead piping. Concentrations as low as 0.01 mg/L could cause long-term health problems.

Aesthetic Indicators

Hardness

Hardness is a measure of calcium and magnesium in water. These elements precipitate with carbonate in boilers and pots to form scale. Hardness also makes it difficult to form lather, requires more soap, and creates a soap scum. Many homeowners decide to purchase a water softener, which replaces calcium and magnesium ions with sodium or potassium ions. Hardness (as calcium carbonate) above 80 mg/L could require a water softener.

Chloride

Chloride concentrations above 250 mg/L can give a salty taste to the water and may corrode piping.

Iron and Manganese

Well water with iron concentrations above 0.3 mg/L and manganese concentrations above 0.05 mg/L could stain plumbing fixtures and clothing; water may appear rust coloured or have black specks in it; can also cause a foul taste in the water and bacterial fouling of the well screen.

pH

pH values of less than 6.5 or greater than 8.5 may cause corrosion of piping.

Water Quality Checklist

Water sampled on three different dates — preferably a week apart — from a tap between the well pump and any water treatment units and/or pressure tank for: total coliform, E. coli and nitrate.
Water sampled once for: sodium, hardness, sulphate, chloride, lead, iron, manganese and pH.
Obtain copies of previous water quality test results from the homeowner. Ask if there have been any water quality problems: frequent stomach illness (bacteria), odours (hydrogen sulphide, methane), rust spots (iron), scale (hardness), slime growth in faucets (iron or manganese), salty taste (chloride), bitter taste (sulphate).
Review with the owner the operation and reason for any water treatment systems (water softener, disinfection system, reverse osmosis system, chlorination unit, etc.). Ask to see all treatment device operating manuals.
Sample a glass of water for taste (salty, bitter), odours (hydrogen sulphide, methane), cloudiness (small particles) and colour (a rusty colour can indicate a high iron content). Remember you will be drinking this water every day.
Look for scale on fixtures or around the faucets indicating hard water. Lift the lid and inspect the back of the toilet tank (the cistern) for sand, sediment, rust particles, scaling, biological growth and any other visual clues which may indicate water problems.
Is there a “rotten egg” smell from the hot water heater? This indicates hydrogen sulphide gas, which can corrode piping.
Drilling a New Well

The cost of a new well depends on the depth of the well and the local market. For drilling and casing, well contractors usually charge a fixed rate per meter (or foot) of depth, whereas grout, seal, cap and screen installation is usually charged at a fixed rate per well.

Septic Systems

The septic system accepts wastewater from the home (sinks, showers, toilets, dishwasher, washing machine), treats the wastewater and returns the treated effluent to the groundwater. A conventional septic system is comprised of two components: a septic tank and a leaching bed.

Septic Tank

A septic tank is a buried, watertight container, which accepts wastewater from your house (see Figure 4). Septic tanks can be made from concrete, polyethylene or fibreglass and in the past were sometimes made from steel (if the property has a steel tank, it is likely rusted through and needs replacing). Older tanks may be smaller than those found today (the minimum current size in Ontario is 3,600 L (952 US gal). Current tanks have two compartments, while older tanks may only have one compartment. Solids settle to the bottom of the tank to form a sludge layer, and oil and grease float to the top to form a scum layer. The tank should be pumped out every three to five years or when 1/3 of the tank volume is filled with solids (measured by a service provider such as a pumper). Some municipalities require that septic tanks be pumped out more frequently. Bacteria, which are naturally present in the tank, work to break down the sewage over time.

Figure 4: Common septic tank

Leaching Bed

The wastewater exits the septic tank into the leaching bed — a system of perforated pipes in gravel trenches on a bed of unsaturated soil (minimum 0.9 m/3 ft. — see Figure 5). The wastewater percolates through the soil where microbes in the soil remove additional harmful bacteria, viruses and nutrients before returning the treated effluent to the groundwater. In cases where there is more than 0.9 m (3 ft.) of unsaturated soil from the high water table or bedrock, a conventional system is used, where the network of perforated drainage piping is installed either directly in the native soil, or in imported sand if the native soil is not appropriate for treatment. In cases where the groundwater or bedrock is close to the surface, the leaching bed must be raised 0.9 m (3 ft.) above the high water table or bedrock. This is called a raised bed system.

Credit: Eric Brunet, Ontario Rural Wastewater Centre, University of Guelph
Figure 5: Septic system

Alternative Systems

Under certain site conditions such as limited lot area, high groundwater table or poor soil conditions (clay or bedrock for example), a conventional system will not provide sufficient treatment of the wastewater. Under these conditions, it is often possible to install an alternative treatment unit. The two most common types of alternative treatment units are trickling filters, where the effluent from the septic tank trickles through an unsaturated filter media (such as peat or a textile filter), and aeration systems, where the effluent from the septic tank passes through an aerated tank.

Alternative treatment units provide a higher level of wastewater treatment, allowing the effluent to be discharged to a smaller area than in a conventional leaching bed. Effluent from an alternative treatment unit can also be discharged to a shallow buried trench, which is a pressurized pipe system 15 cm (6 in.) below the ground surface. In most provinces homeowners with alternative treatment units are required to have a maintenance contract with a service provider to inspect and maintain their systems.

Inspecting the Septic System

You should have the septic system inspected by a certified on-site system professional (such as a certified installer or engineer) prior to purchasing the home. Call your local municipal office, public health office or Ministry of Environment office for a list of qualified professionals.

The inspection should include: a discussion with the homeowner, a review of the system permit, a tank inspection, a leaching bed inspection and a house inspection.

System Replacement or Repair

A septic system should last anywhere from 20 – 25 years, or even longer, if it is properly installed and maintained with regular pump-outs every three to five years.

Questions to ask the homeowner:

Do you have a copy of the septic system permit?
When was the last time the septic tank was pumped out? Are there records of system maintenance (tank pump-outs, system repair)?
Have there been any problems with the septic system: system backing up, foul odours, effluent on the surface, soggy ground in the leaching bed, system freezing, toilet and drains gurgling or draining slowly?
Have there been any potable water quality problems (E. coli, faecal coliform, nitrate)? This could be due to infiltration of the well by leakage from the septic system and could indicate a malfunctioning system. Results from the water quality samples that you take of the well water may help indicate septic system problems.
Permit Review Checklist

The septic system permit can be obtained from the homeowner or the local municipal, Ministry of Environment or public health office, depending on the jurisdiction. There may not be a permit for older systems.

Review the system permit: age, size and type of system and separation distances (particularly from wells).
Verify the size of the system with respect to the size of the house.
Tank Inspection Checklist

Never enter or stick your head into a septic tank. Dangerous gases are present in septic tanks, which can be lethal, even after the tank has been pumped out.

Compare the size of the tank and the expected water use, observe the general condition of the tank: baffles, partition wall, look for cracks and leaks. A steel tank is likely corroded and in need of replacement.
Observe the water levels in the tank (too high suggests a clogged leaching bed while too low suggests a leaking tank).
Have the septic tank pumped out (the owner should pay).
Observe connections to the house and to the leaching bed (leaking pipes, crushed pipes), look for direct discharge of surface drainage into the tank. Tire tracks on the leaching bed could indicate crushed pipes.
Clean the effluent filter (if one exists) by rinsing with an outdoor hose, allowing the rinse water to drain into the septic tank.
Leaching Bed Inspection

Check for effluent on the surface, odours, lush growth, soggy field/ saturated soil.
Check for obstructions to the leaching bed (pavement over bed, trees in bed).
Verify that surface drainage is directed away from the leaching bed (for example, downspouts are not saturating the leaching bed).
Dig test pits in the tile lines for signs of ponding water and biomat (slime) growth. This indicates plugged tile lines, which may require repair or eventual replacement.
Inspect all mechanical equipment (pumps, aerators, alarms) to ensure they are in good working order.
Indoor Inspection Checklist

Check for leaking faucets and run-on toilets (a run-on toilet can flood the septic system). Slow moving drains and sewer-gas smells from flowing drains can indicate a failing system.
Verify the plumbing (storm water and sump pump to ditch or dry well, toilet and sinks to septic system). If there is a direct grey water discharge (sinks and bathtub are not going to the septic system), it likely does not meet building code or health department standards. Connecting the grey water to the septic system may require the installation of a larger septic system.
Water softener discharge: USEPA reports suggest that it is appropriate to discharge water softener backwash to a septic system. However, many jurisdictions encourage the discharge of the water softener’s backwash to a sump pump, ditch or dry well.
Under exceptional circumstances, the home may have a holding tank as opposed to a septic system. A holding tank must be pumped regularly (every few weeks) which can add a considerable expense to the household.
Inspect the sewer vent stack for damage or blockage. Simply removing an old bird’s nest might eliminate sewer-gas problems.
Where Can I Get More Information?

local municipal offices or public health offices
licensed septic system installers and well drillers (check the Yellow Pages™)
provincial ministries of the environment

Bank of Canada holds key rate at 1%

Real Estate

Bank of Canada holds key rate at 1%.   In no rush to hike interest rates

The Bank of Canada held its trend-setting Bank Rate at 1.25 per cent on May 31, 2011. This marks the sixth consecutive policy rate announcement for which interest rates have been kept on hold.

The Bank now sees headline inflation as staying above 3 per cent in the short term. It nonetheless maintained its inflation outlook included in its April Montary Policy Update, which indicated that inflation in Canada would hit two per cent by mid-2012.

“The Bank sets rates based on an inflation target of between one and three per cent, and it normally leans against inflation by raising interest rates. Leaving rates on hold in the face of higher inflation will likely become a communication challenge for the Bank,” said Gregory Klump, Chief Economist for The Canadian Real Estate Association.  “While the Bank said currently low interest rates will be raised ‘eventually’, there was little to suggest that the Bank is in any rush to do so.”

The Bank’s decision to keep its policy interest rates on hold follows recent comments by Finance Minister Jim Flaherty that he’s “quite worried” about the outlook for the global economy.  However, while global risks and their potential impact on the Canadian economic outlook remain elevated, the Bank has given itself plenty of room to justify raising interest rates.

“The Bank said it anticipates inflation expectations to remain well-anchored. If these expecations drift higher, or if productivity fails to recover, the Bank’s hand may be forced where it will have little choice but to raise interest rates,” said Klump. “There is little doubt that higher interest rates are on the way, but what’s equally certain is they won’t be going up very far or very fast.”

Financial markets have recently increased bets that interest rates are on hold until at least September. The prevailing view among economists is that the Bank Rate will be no more than three-quarters of a percentage point above its current level of one per cent.

As of May 31, 2011, the advertised five-year lending rate stood at 5.59 per cent. This is down one-tenth of a percentage point from 5.64 per cent on April 12th, when the Bank made its previous policy interest rate announcement.

The Bank will make its next scheduled rate announcement on July 19, 2011.

http://creastats.crea.ca/natl/interest_rate_trends.htm

(CREA 05/31/2011)

Seasonal Home Maintenance Schedule

Personal Interest

Seasonal Home Maintenance

Make sure air vents indoors and outdoors (intake, exhaust and forced air) are not blocked by snow or debris.

Check and clean range hood filters on a monthly basis.

Test ground fault circuit interrupter(s) on electrical outlets monthly by pushing the test button, which should then cause the reset button to pop up.

If there are young children in the house, make sure electrical outlets are equipped with safety plugs.

Regularly check the house for safety hazards, such as a loose handrail, lifting or buckling flooring, inoperative smoke detectors, and so on.

Fall

Have furnace or heating system serviced by a qualified service company every two years for a gas furnace, and every year for an oil furnace, or as recommended by the manufacturer.

If you have central air conditioning, make sure the drain pan under the cooling coil mounted in the furnace plenum is draining properly and is clean.

Lubricate circulating pump on hot water heating system.

Bleed air from hot <a href=”http://www.napoleon.cc/cottage/”target=”_blank”rel=”external”title=”Midland Cottage Inspections” >water radiators.

Disconnect the power to the furnace and examine the forced-air furnace fan belt, if installed, for wear, looseness or noise; clean fan blades of any dirt buildup.

Check chimneys for obstructions such as nests.

Vacuum electric baseboard heaters to remove dust.

Remove the grilles on forced-air systems and vacuum inside the ducts.

Turn ON gas furnace pilot light (if your furnace has one), set the thermostat to “heat” and test the furnace for proper operation by raising the thermostat setting until the furnace starts to operate. Once you have confirmed proper operation, return the thermostat to the desired setting.

Check and clean or replace furnace air filters each month during the heating season. Ventilation system, such as heat recovery ventilator, filters should be checked every two months.

Check to see that the ductwork leading to and from the heat recovery ventilator is in good shape, the joints are tightly sealed (aluminum tape or mastic) and any duct insulation and plastic duct wrap is free of tears and holes.

If the heat recovery ventilator has been shut off for the summer, clean the filters and the core, and pour water down the condensate drain to test it.

Check to see that bathroom exhaust fans and range hoods are operating properly. If possible, confirm that you are getting good airflow by observing the outside vent hood (the exterior damper should be held open by the airflow).

Check smoke, carbon monoxide and security alarms, and replace batteries.

Clean portable humidifier, if one is used.

Check sump pump and line to ensure proper operation, and to ascertain that there are no line obstructions or visible leaks.

Replace window screens with storm windows.

Remove interior insect screens from windows to allow air from the heating system to keep condensation off window glass and to allow more free solar energy into your home.

Ensure windows and skylights close tightly; repair or replace weatherstripping, as needed.

Ensure all doors to the outside shut tightly, and check other doors for ease of use. Replace door weatherstripping if required.

If there is a door between your house and the garage, check the adjustment of the self-closing device to ensure it closes the door completely.

Cover outside of air-conditioning units and shut off power.

Ensure that the ground around your home slopes away from the foundation wall, so that water does not drain into your basement.

Clean leaves from eaves troughs and roof, and test downspouts to ensure proper drainage from the roof.

Drain and store outdoor hoses. Close interior valve to outdoor hose connection and drain the hose bib (exterior faucet), unless your house has frost-proof hose bibs.

Have well water tested for quality. It is recommended that you test for bacteria every six months.

If you have a septic tank, measure the sludge and scum to determine if the tank needs to be emptied before the spring. Tanks should be pumped out at least once every three years.

Winterize landscaping, for example, store outdoor furniture, prepare gardens and, if necessary, protect young trees or bushes for winter.

Winter

Check and clean or replace furnace air filters each month during the heating season. Ventilation system, such as heat recovery ventilator, filters should be checked every two months.

After consulting your hot water tank owner’s manual, drain off a dishpan full of water from the clean-out valve at the bottom of your hot water tank to control sediment and maintain efficiency.

Clean humidifier two or three times during the winter season.

Vacuum bathroom fan grille.

Vacuum fire and smoke detectors, as dust or spider webs can prevent them from functioning.

Vacuum radiator grilles on back of refrigerators and freezers, and empty and clean drip trays.

Check pressure gauge on all fire extinguishers; recharge or replace if necessary.

Check fire escape routes, door and window locks and hardware, and lighting around outside of house; ensure family has good security habits.

Check the basement floor drain to ensure the trap contains water; refill with water if necessary.

Monitor your home for excessive moisture levels — for example, condensation on your windows, which can cause significant damage over time and pose serious health problems — and take corrective action if necessary. Mould may become an issue if you have excessive humidity in your home.

Check all faucets for signs of dripping and change washers as needed. Faucets requiring frequent replacement of washers may be in need of repair.

If you have a plumbing fixture that is not used frequently, such as a laundry tub or spare bathroom sink, tub or shower stall, run some water briefly to keep water in the trap.

Clean drains in dishwasher, sinks, bathtubs and shower stalls.

Test plumbing shut-off valves to ensure they are working and to prevent them from seizing.

Examine windows and doors for ice accumulation or cold air leaks. If found, make a note to repair or replace in the spring.

Examine attic for frost accumulation. Check roof for ice dams or icicles. If there is excessive frost or staining of the underside of the roof, or ice dams on the roof surface. Call in a qualified home inspector or roofing consultant if you suspect you have ice damming problem.

Keep snow clear of gas meters, gas appliance vents, exhaust vents and basement windows.

Monitor outdoor vents, gas meters and chimneys for ice and snow buildup. Consult with an appropriate contractor or your gas utility for information on how to safely deal with any ice problems you may discover.

Check electrical cords, plugs and outlets for all indoor and outdoor seasonal lights to ensure fire safety; if worn, or if plugs or cords feel warm to the touch, replace immediately. Do not use extension cords as permanent wiring as they are not designed for this purpose.

Spring

After consulting your hot water tank owner’s manual, carefully test the temperature and pressure relief valve to ensure it is not stuck. Caution: This test may release hot water that can cause burns.

Check and clean or replace furnace air filters each month during the heating season. Ventilation system, such as heat recovery ventilator, filters should be checked every two months. Recommend using a pleated filter with metal strips for electrostatic dust collection as the minimum type of filter to install. If using a washable filter ensure it does not restrict air for furnace which can cause early failure of fan unit.

Have fireplace or wood stove and chimney cleaned and serviced as needed.

Shut down, drain and clean furnace humidifier, and close the furnace humidifier damper on units with central air conditioning. Remove and clean filter. Empty water tray to prevent algae etc from forming.

Switch on power to air conditioning and check system. Have it serviced every two or three years.

Clean or replace air-conditioning filter, if applicable.

Check dehumidifier and drain — clean if necessary.

Turn OFF gas furnace and fireplace pilot lights where possible.

Have well water tested for quality. It is recommended that you test for bacteria every six months. Bypass any filters before performing tests.

Check smoke, carbon monoxide and security alarms, and replace batteries. Every level of homes in Ontario require a working smoke detector.

Clean windows, screens and hardware, and replace storm windows with screens. Check screens first and repair or replace if needed.

Open valve to outside hose connection after all danger of frost has passed.

Examine the foundation walls for cracks, leaks or signs of moisture, and repair as required. Silcone caulking is ideal for minor cracks. If there are any major cracks, foam or epoxy injection may be required.

Ensure sump pump is operating properly before the spring thaw sets in. Ensure discharge pipe is connected and allows water to drain away from the foundation.

Re-level any exterior steps or decks that moved as a result of frost or settling. Ensure all steps are the same height and remove any trip hazards by re-leveling patio stones.

Check for and seal off any holes in exterior cladding that could be an entry point for small pests, such as bats and squirrels. Foam or caulking is a good filler.

Check eavestroughs and downspouts for loose joints and secure attachment to your home, clear any obstructions, and ensure water flows away from your foundation. Using splash pads can help ensure all water is drained away from homes. Most basement water problems come from improper grade or water drainage from downspouts.

Clear all drainage ditches and culverts of debris.

Repair and paint fences as necessary — allow wood fences to dry adequately before tackling this task.

Undertake spring landscape maintenance and, if necessary, fertilize young trees.

Summer

Monitor basement humidity and avoid relative humidity levels above 60 per cent. Use a dehumidifier to maintain relative humidity below 60 per cent.

Clean or replace air-conditioning filter, and clean or replace ventilation system filters if necessary. Remember most a/c technicians now recommend that you do not completely cover your unit for the winter. This traps in condensation and can actually damage unit.

Check basement pipes for condensation or dripping and, if necessary, take corrective action; for example, reduce humidity and/or insulate cold water pipes.

Check the basement floor drain to ensure the trap contains water; refill with water if necessary. Newer homes have fill line from laundry and typically condensate lines from furnace or a/c unit will ensure enough water is kept in trap.

If you have a plumbing fixture that is not used frequently, for example, a laundry tub or spare bathroom sink, tub or shower stall, run some water briefly to keep water in the trap.

Deep clean carpets and rugs.

Vacuum bathroom fan grille.

Disconnect the duct connected to your clothes dryer, and vacuum lint from duct, the areas surrounding your dryer and your dryer’s vent hood outside. Don’t forget to check and clean the outside grill and duct.

Check security of all guardrails and handrails.

Check smooth functioning of all windows, and lubricate as required. Check for damaged thermal seals which will allow moisture between panes of glass. Recommend replacing thermal unit rather than drilling holes to allow moisture out which costs up to 40% of cost of replacing window. You still end up with damaged window and can affect your resale value because any competent home inspector will note the holes drilled in glass.

Inspect window sills for any signs of cracking mortar on sills or bricks. This can allow water to enter behind brick and can do some serious damage to brick below, if not monitored brick spalling may occur.

Sand and touch up paint on windows and doors. Check all caulking.

Lubricate door hinges, and tighten screws as needed.

Check for and replace damaged caulking and weather stripping around mechanical and electrical services, windows and doorways, including the doorway between the garage and the house. Although an automatic door closure is required for your Occupancy Permit there is no “legal requirement” for you to maintain a closure.

Lubricate garage door hardware, and ensure it is operating properly. White lithium type grease is best for this project.

Lubricate automatic garage door opener motor, chain and other moving parts, and ensure that the auto-reverse mechanism is properly adjusted. Use grease or oil as recommended by manufacturer for best results. Operating instructions can usually be found online if orginal is lost or mis-placed.

Inspect electrical service lines for secure attachment where they enter your house, and make sure there is no water leakage into the house along the electrical conduit. Check for overhanging tree branches that may need to be removed. Tree branches are typically looked after by Municipality or City and a phone call is all that is required.

Check exterior wood siding and trim for signs of deterioration; clean, replace or refinish as needed. Check for any cracked or missing caulking. Re-align any siding with gaps.

Remove any plants that contact — and roots that penetrate — the siding or brick. The building code requires 8 inches of clearance from grade. Moisture will cause brick surfaces to spall if soil or snow is allowed to build up against brick surface. Treating with water proofing will help prevent this if grade cannot be changed.

From the ground, check the general condition of the roof and note any sagging that could indicate structural problems requiring further investigation from inside the attic. Note the condition of shingles for possible repair or replacement, and examine roof flashings, such as at chimney and roof joints, for any signs of cracking or leakage.

Check the chimney cap and the caulking between the cap and the chimney. Recommend having Home Inspector or Mason inspect your roof and chimney areas.

Repair driveway and walkways as needed. Sealing the crack between asphalt driveway and garage floor is a very important preventive maintenance project and will prevent driveway from sagging in future.

Repair any damaged steps. Use cement epoxy type products to ensure proper seal.

Remember an “Ounce of Prevention is Worth a Pound of Cure”

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Repairing Rotting Wood Tips and Techniques

Exterior

Causes of Rotting Wood

Whenever wood has more than 20% moisture exposure it has the potential to deteriorate. It’s very important to keep up on caulking and painting with quality materials to prevent wood rot.

If you are at the point where you already have wood rot we recommend you do not use pine for rot replacement. Pine available on the market today tends to be new growth pine. Pine available today is not as dense as older growth pine and will rot in a very short period of time. So many home owners are so disappointed to find their new homes have extensive wood rot damage within the first five years.
window rot by Barrie Home Inspector

Painting and caulking are two of the home owners best materials that will help prevent wood rot. Caulking is one of the best defenses your home has against moisture. Home owners should be vigilante for the appearance of peeling or cracking paint and cracked or missing caulking. Either of these are indicators that your wood is now being attacked by moisture. As a home inspector I am always reminding my clients of the old but true adage that ” an ounce of prevention is better than a pound of cure.”


Repairing Areas of Wood Rot

Using a wood chisel, an electric drill with a spade bit, or another tool appropriate for the location to remove all of the wet, loose and decayed wood.
Probe the surrounding area with an awl. If it feels as solid as unaffected areas, drill numerous closely spaced holes of 1/8-inch (3-mm) diameter in the wood and inject a liquid wood hardener following the manufactures directions.

Mix two-part epoxy or polyester wood filler as directed. Mix only what you can apply and shape in a few minutes. Once the material hardens it is un-workable and must be thrown away.

Fill the hole or build up the affected area with the wood filler, using a putty knife or flexible plastic spreader. Press hard on knife to work the initial layer into the surface for a good bond.

Clean off the applicator and mixing container immediately

Use a rasp tool to roughly shape or level excess filler as soon as the filler sets up, but before it dries completely.
Use medium or coarse sandpaper to further shape and blend the patch when the filler is completely dry. On flat surfaces, use a rubber sanding block or power sander. On contoured surfaces, use wood dowels or other appropriate shapes to back the sandpaper.

Blow off the dust and apply freshly mixed filler to fill any remaining depressions or pinholes, or to build up more material as needed to attain the desired shape.

Use medium, then fine sandpaper to smooth the patch and feather it into the surrounding wood.

After completely dry prime and paint to suit.

Choosing Your Exterior Paints

For most exterior wood in reasonably good shape, pick a high-quality acrylic primer. It remains elastic and permeable so moisture can “breathe” through the paint skin. This will decrease the chance of the paint bubbling and peeling due to moisture in the walls.

Consider oil- or shellac-based primers for cedar or redwood. With these, you have to factor in problems with tannin staining. Tannin is a natural substance in the wood which will bleed through and cause yellow or brown stains in your finished paint job. It is water soluble, so it will bleed through any water based product. Oil and shellac primers will stop tannin from bleeding through. Some water-based primers claim to be able to stop tannin staining, although sometimes two or more coats will be necessary. Use your own judgment.

Ask at your paint store about breathable oil primers, which are formulated to allow passage of moisture from the house through the paint. (All water-based products, unless they are sold specifically as moisture-barriers, are breathable.) Breathable oil primers would be your best choice to help combat tannin staining some plywood materials, in addition to cedar, redwood.

Use oil-based primers for very punky, soft older wood. Oil-based primers penetrate much deeper into the wood fibers and create a more solid substrate to paint over.

This article is brought to you by Roger Frost, The Barrie Home Inspector, browse our Home Maintenance Tips Blog for more Money Saving Tips

Landscaping Basic Tips for Your Home

Exterior

Landscaping Basic Tips for Your Home. Landscaping is both science and art, and requires good observation and design skills. A good landscaper understands the elements of nature and construction, and blends them accordingly.

Thales, an early Greek philosopher known for his view that “all is water,” spent a considerable time thinking about the nature and scope of landscaping. Some of his students believed that in order for human activity to be considered landscaping, it must be directed toward modifying the physical features of the land itself, including the cultivation and/or manipulation of plants or other flora. Thales rejected this notion, arguing that any aspect of the material world affecting our visual perception of the land was a proper subject for landscaping. Both Plato and Aristotle praised Thales’ analysis as a model for philosophy. In the early 20th century, British philosopher G.E. Moore cited Thales’ reasoning as one of the few historical examples of how philosophical inquiry has led to genuine human understanding and progress.

Landscape architecture is a multi-disciplinary field, incorporating aspects of: botany, horticulture, the fine arts, architecture, industrial design, geology and the earth sciences, environmental psychology, geography, and ecology. The activities of a landscape architect can range from the creation of public parks and parkways to site planning for campuses and corporate office parks, from the design of residential estates to the design of civil infrastructure and the management of large wilderness areas or reclamation of degraded landscapes such as mines or landfills. Landscape architects work on all types of structures and external space – large or small, urban, suburban and rural, and with “hard” (built) and “soft” (planted) materials, while integrating ecological sustainability. The most valuable contribution can be made at the first stage of a project to generate ideas with technical understanding and creative flair for the design, organization, and use of spaces.

Good garden centres group plants according to their sun and shade requirements. Trees and shrubs also have light preferences, so read the plant tags and do some research before deciding what to plant. How many of each plant depends upon the size of the space and the width or spread of the plant. There are two schools of thought about how densely to plant a new garden. If you want your garden to look mature and full its first year, you will need to space young plants more closely or buy larger plants. You will get an immediate impact, but you will also need to begin dividing sooner. If you have the patience to allow your garden to fill in slowly, you can leave room for the plants to grow into their new home and fill in temporarily with annuals.

Floriculture crops include bedding plants, flowering plants, foliage plants or houseplants, cut cultivated greens, and cut flowers. As distinguished from nursery crops, floriculture crops are generally herbaceous. Bedding and garden plants consist of young flowering plants (annuals and perennials) and vegetable plants. They are grown in cell packs (in flats or trays), in pots, or in hanging baskets, usually inside a controlled environment, and sold largely for gardens and landscaping. Geraniums, impatiens, and petunias are the best-selling bedding plants. Chrysanthemums are the major perennial garden plant in the United States.

For your first beginning flower garden, pick a spot that is in full direct sun. It should be sunny all day long or for at least half the day including noontime. Shady gardens can be terrific, but for a first garden with lots of flowers, a sunnier spot is better. First, remove any existing grass or weeds including the roots. The more thoroughly you do this chore now, the better your results will be later. You can dig it out by hand or use a sod cutter; smother it with cardboard or newspaper topped with mulch over several months’ time; or use an herbicide. If you use weed killer, be sure to read and carefully follow ALL of the label directions.

There really is no final choice, since gardens are never finished, but try to be as realistic as you can. Sketching it out on graph paper first, can help you to visualize how your garden will look. This may be the best route to go, but many gardens would never get planted if we waited until we felt things were perfect and it can be hard for a new gardener to equate what’s on paper with reality. Sometimes you just have to get started. You’ll learn as you go. Just make sure that most of your plant choices fit of the criteria you’ve outlined and the growing conditions you have to offer. Try not to squeeze in too many different plants and you’re small space garden should look and grow just fine.

Inspecting Your Homes Attic

Home Inspection

Inspecting Your Homes Attic.  There should be an access opening to all attic spaces that exceed 30 square feet and have a vertical height of 30 inches or more. The rough-framed opening should be at least 22 inches by 30 inches. It should be located in a hallway or other readily accessible location. An attic access that is located in a clothes closet is often inaccessible due to permanent shelving installed. There should be headroom that is a minimum of 30 inches above the attic access. In some places “attic” is used more specifically to apply to lofts which have boarded floors and ceilings, and usually windows or skylights, and then “loft” is kept to mean a dark, unboarded roof-space which lacks these features.

Knee walls are vertical walls with an attic space directly behind them. You’ll typically find them in houses with finished attic spaces and dormer windows, as with 1-story houses. There are a couple of ways that you may see a knee wall insulated. The most important areas and most overlooked areas to insulate are the open joist ends below the knee wall. Air sealing reduces heat flow from air movement, or convection. Air sealing prevents water vapor in the air from entering the wall assembly. In a 100-square-foot wall, 1 cup of water can diffuse through drywall without a vapor diffusion retarder in a single year. Fifty cups can enter through a -inch round hole. Air sealing is 10 to 100 times as important as installing a vapor diffusion retarder.

Insulation performance is measured by R-value – its ability to resist heat flow. Higher R-values mean more insulating power. Different R-values are recommended for walls, attics, basements and crawlspaces, depending on your area of the country. Insulation works best when air is not moving through or around it. So it is very important to seal air leaks before installing insulation to ensure that you get the best performance from the insulation.

If you hear noises in your attic and you are unsure as to the source, it’s relatively easy to determine if it’s squirrels – squirrels are active during the daytime. Thus, if you hear scampering and scurrying noises during the day, it’s likely squirrels. Other attic-dwelling critters, such as rats and mice, bats, flying squirrels, opossums, and raccoons, are nocturnal, so they mostly only make noise at night. Flying squirrels are also nocturnal. If the noises happen at night, there’s a strong chance of mice or rats.

The squirrel often finds bedding material by shredding roof or wall paper, and shredding vent ducts and insulation around pipes. The biggest problem is that they chew, and I’ve seen dozens of cases in which they’ve chewed electrical wires. It’s estimated that half of house fires of unknown origin are due to rodent chewing on electrical wires.

Most people will have no reaction at all when exposed to molds. Allergic reactions, similar to common pollen or animal allergies, are the most common health effects for individuals sensitive to molds. Flu-like symptoms and skin rash may occur. Molds may also aggravate asthma. Fungal infections from building-associated molds may occur in people with serious immune disease but this is very rare. Most symptoms are temporary and eliminated by correcting the mold problem in the home.

When your home is inspected by a Professional Home Inspector they are checking for proper ventilation, presence of moisture, proper insulation, mould, proper structural support and signs of rodent or animal entry. Bat feces or vermiculite insulation removal can run into ten thousand dollars or more for removal. Compared to the cost of hiring the Barrie Home Inspector for $200.00 this is a really cost effective way to protect yourself and ensure Peace of Mind on your next Real Estate purchase.

 

WETT Inspections in Barrie, Alliston, Orillia and Tiny Beaches

WETT Inspections

WETT Inspections in Barrie, Alliston, Orillia and Tiny Beaches.  Wood Energy Technology Transfer Inc. (WETT Inc.) is a non-profit training and education association managed by a volunteer Board of Directors elected by holders of valid WETT certificates. Through its administrative designate, WETT Inc. functions as the national registrar of the WETT program. Through professional training and public education, WETT Inc. promotes the safe and effective use of wood burning systems in Canada.

A certificate holder will not knowingly sign or issue a false or misleading certificate, report or other document. A certificate holder will not knowingly sign or issue a false or misleading certificate, report or other document. A certificate holder will not make a false or malicious statement or publication that injures the professional reputation of another holder of a valid wett certificate.

Like any other human endeavor, wood heating can be done badly or well. Firewood can be harvested poorly, burned dirty and its heat wasted. The harmful behavior of those who burn wood badly has led to continual attacks in the media on the whole idea of residential wood heating. The increasing public backlash and government response to wood smoke, particularly in urban areas, is of such concern to us here at woodheat.org that we created a new site called The Woodpile to serve as a place to discuss the future of wood heating. Please visit The Woodpile and give your views on the state of wood heating today.

Large parts of North America have highly productive forests that could sustainably supply fuel for far more homes than are currently heated with wood. The productivity of many forests can be improved by thinning, and this process could yield a large amount of wood fuel. Advanced technology wood heaters can effectively burn tree species that have historically been considered inferior. Poplar, spruce, pine and willow can be used as firewood in modern appliances. Firewood production can provide the incentive for good forest management and its use can reduce greenhouse gas emissions by displacing fossil fuels.

The US government’s regulation of wood stove emissions, starting in 1988, produced a technological revolution that changed wood heating forever. Wood stoves certified by the Environmental Protection Agency emit roughly 90 percent less smoke and deliver up to one-third higher efficiency compared to older conventional stoves like the so-called ‘airtights’ of the 1970s and 1980s. Advanced technology, EPA certified wood stoves certainly do burn much cleaner and are also more pleasant to use, but there is more to reduced smoke emissions than using better technology. There are really three aspects: advanced technology in the form of EPA certified heaters, good quality fuel that is dry enough and split to the right size, and user practices that can reduce wood smoke and boost efficiency.

All wood, regardless of species, has about the same energy content per pound. The different species vary mainly in density. Traditionally, the favored trees in central North America were oak and maple because they are very dense and produce long-lasting coals. But these are valuable trees and in many areas are not plentiful enough to burn. No problem, just use softer woods like birch or poplar (aspen) or any other tree that is readily available. By far the most important characteristic of any firewood is its moisture content. Keep in mind that people living in the coldest areas of North America have no hardwoods to burn and they get along just fine – their main firewood species are spruce and aspen. Ultimately, it is more important to have wood that is cut and split to the right size and properly dried than it is to get the hardest wood available.

The Barrie Home Inpector is a Certified WETT Inspector and provides services in Barrie, Alliston, Orillia, Midland, Penetang, Bradford, Newmarket, Innisfil, Tiny Beaches, Oro-Medonte, Springwater, Stayner, Wasaga Beach, Alcona Beach, Lagoon City, Brechin, Angus, New Lowell and many other communities in Simcoe County.

 

Cottage Inspections in Ontario

Home Inspection

Cottage Inspections in Ontario.  “Cottages” in Eastern Canada are generally located next to lakes, rivers, or the ocean in forested areas. They are used as a place to spend holidays with friends and family; common activities including swimming, canoeing, waterskiing, fishing, hiking, and sailing. There are also many well-known summer colonies.

Beware of Shore Line Allowances which are registered on title and can take away up to 66 feet of your waterfront. Removing or closing a Shore Line Allowance can be expensive depending on the charges your Municipality may levy. Ensure you find out prior to closing as this may affect price of property. Conservation authorities may opposing closing of certain allowances making it difficult and more expensive.

Jet pumps draw water using an impeller which throws the water outwards creating a vacuum which draws the water up behind it, creating pressure. The jet pump will not pump air so if line is not completely sealed will lose its prime. To stop the water from flowing back down into the well a one-way check valve is installed on the feeder line.

Septic tanks are usually the only option for your remote cottage sewage system. They may be constructed of wood, steel or homemade and may need immediate replacing. The size of the septic tank required depends on the size of the cottage determined by the number bedrooms.

Tiny Township has implemented a Septic Inspection program at the request of cottagers bordering on waterfront.
That could be a worry for an inexperienced purchaser when you consider that they have found that one-quarter of the systems inspected in Tiny Township have been found to have some type of defect. Orendt says an inspection project on Charleston Lake near Brockville turned up a failure rate of 45 per cent.

If buying a Cottage in Barrie, Midland, Orillia, Rama, Brechin, Lagoon City, Severn Falls or in this general area contact the Barrie Home Inspector for a Professional Cottage Inspection. With over 4,000 inspections and as a Certified Building Code Official your investment is in good hands.

 

Siding and Cladding for Your Home

Exterior

Siding and Cladding for Your Home.  Nothing will impact the appearance of your home more then the siding that’s on it. When shopping for siding you may want to consider what suits your lifestyle as well as the style of your home. Siding is the outer covering ( A.K.A. Cladding ) of a home meant to shed water and protect the home from the effects of weather but it may also act as a key element in the aesthetic beauty of the structure and directly influence its property value. Here are a few types of siding you may want to consider :

Stucco: Traditional stucco is cement combined with water and inert materials such as sand and lime but many homes built after the 50’s may resemble stucco but they actually use a variety of synthetic materials to achieve the same look. Stucco can be tinted to the colour you want and then the need to paint is gone forever. Synthetic stucco siding is lighter then the traditional and is more likely to suffer damage from a hard blow. It is often compromised of foam insulation board or cement panels screwed to the walls and the stucco is applied around it.

As a building material, stucco is a durable, attractive, and weather-resistant wall covering. It was traditionally used as both an interior and exterior finish applied in one or two thin layers directly over a solid masonry, brick or stone surface. The finish coat usually contained an integral color and was typically textured for appearance.
Stucco or render is a material made of an aggregate, a binder, and water. Stucco is applied wet and hardens to a very dense solid. It is used as a coating for walls and ceilings and for decoration. Stucco may be used to cover less visually appealing construction materials such as concrete, cinder block, or clay brick and adobe.

Stone veneer siding: Stone veneer is used as a decorative and protective covering for both interior and exterior applications. Stones like granite , limestone, slate, etc… are not only beautiful and hardly affected by weather , there also really expensive. That’s why precast stone veneers and facings became popular , the can look genuine ( depending on the product) and are also much more affordable the the real thing. The veneer is typically no thicker then 1″ and must weigh no more then 15 lbs per square foot to be installed without additional structural supports. These veneers can be made from natural stone by cutting the stone into thinner pieces or can be manufactured to look like stone.

Vinyl siding: Vinyl siding is one of if not the most popular type of siding. Unlike wood , this durable plastic will not rot or flake. Vinyl is available in several colour and it is said that it will never have to be painted. Advertisements say that vinyl siding is permanent and although it will last a very long time, it is less durable then wood or masonry. Heavy winds have been known to lift panels from the wall and windblown debris and strong hail can puncture it. New technologies are making this material stronger but the sheets may still crack if struck by a lawnmower or snow blower and unfortunately panels cannot be patched, they can only be replaced.

Engineered wood siding: Engineered wood siding is made from wood products and other materials. The panels can be molded to resemble traditional clapboards although it does not exactly look like real wood due to the fact that it’s textured grain is uniform. It does however look more natural then vinyl or aluminium siding. The benefit of engineered wood siding is that it offers all the advantages of of regular wood siding but in addition, it’s termite resistant and it will not rot,crack or split.

Having a Professional Home Inspector inspect your home prior to purchase will allow your new homes cladding to be inspected by a Professional like the Barrie Home Inspector. He will inspect for cladding of siding failure or poor installation techniques. Having all the information available is paramount prior to purchasing real estate, whether for investment or for your new home.

 

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