Barrie Home Inspector

Home Maintenance and Tips for Home Owners

Category: Exterior

Exterior cladding information for home owners.

Concrete – Strength in Knowledge

Basements, Exterior

Concrete – Strength in Knowledge.  Concrete is used more than any other man-made material in the world.  As of 2006, about 7.5 billion cubic meters of concrete are made each year-more than one cubic meter for every person on Earth.

In evaluating concrete problems, one of the important decisions home inspectors must make is determining whether a problem is the result of conditions that have stabilized with a low chance of continuing future problems, or whether the conditions that caused the problem are such that there is a high probability that problems will continue or worsen.

Concrete powers a US $35 billion industry, employing more than two million workers in the United States alone. More than 55,000 miles (89,000 km) of highways in the United States are paved with this material. Reinforced concrete, prestressed concrete and precast concrete are the most widely used types of concrete functional extensions in modern days.

Concrete, as the Romans knew it, was a new and revolutionary material. Laid in the shape of arches, vaults and domes, it quickly hardened into a rigid mass, free from many of the internal thrusts and strains that troubled the builders of similar structures in stone or brick.  Modern structural concrete differs from Roman concrete in two important details. First, its mix consistency is fluid and homogeneous, allowing it to be poured into forms rather than requiring hand-layering together with the placement of aggregate, which, in Roman practice, often consisted of rubble. Second, integral reinforcing steel gives modern concrete assemblies great strength in tension, whereas Roman concrete could depend only upon the strength of the concrete bonding to resist tension.

Combining water with a cementitious material forms a cement paste by the process of hydration. The cement paste glues the aggregate together, fills voids within it and allows it to flow more freely. Less waterin the cement paste will yield a stronger, more durable concrete; more water will give a freer-flowing concrete with a higher slump. Impure water used to make concrete can cause problems when setting or in causing premature failure of the structure. Hydration involves many different reactions, often occurring at the same time. As the reactions proceed, the products of the cement hydration process gradually bond together the individual sand and gravel particles and other components of the concrete, to form a solid mass.

Plastic cracking occurs prior to concrete curing. Autogenous shrinkage is caused by internal drying.  Since there is no loss of water to one exposed surface, autogenous shrinkage is more uniform than plastic shrinkage. However, tensile stresses still develop, and embedded steel can cause anomalies in an area of concrete with relatively uniform stress. These anomalies can cause variations in stress within the concrete that are relieved by cracking.  Autogenous shrinkage cracking will be shallow and is not a structural issue. The cracks may look similar to those formed during plastic shrinkage and are often propagations of cracks created during plastic shrinkage.

The advantage to inspectors in being able to accurately determine the source of cracking is in understanding whether the condition that caused the cracking has stabilized so that it is no longer likely to cause additional cracking or encourage the propagation of existing cracks. Many cracks, like those caused by concrete shrinkage, are shallow cracks caused by forces that allow conditions to stabilize relatively quickly and do not lead to structural problems. Others, like those caused by soil subsidence or changes in soil volume, are caused by forces that can continue to affect concrete for a long time. This long-term instability can continue to cause serious structural problems over the long term.

When investing in a new property it is important to have the building inspected by a qualified residential or commercial inspector.  Visit www.barrie-home-inspector.com to learn more about the Barrie Home Inspector, when purchasing Commercial or Residential Properties.  With over 4,000 inspections, experience and knowledge can help protect your investment.

Concrete – Supporting Your Home

Basements, Exterior

Concrete – Supporting Your Home. The word concrete comes from the Latin word “concretus” (meaning compact or condensed), the perfect passive participle of “concrescere”, from “con-” (together) and “crescere” (to grow).  Most information available about concrete is written for contractors, for those who design concrete mixes, and for those who perform invasive testing.

In evaluating concrete problems, one of the important decisions home inspectors must make is determining whether a problem is the result of conditions that have stabilized with a low chance of continuing future problems, or whether the conditions that caused the problem are such that there is a high probability that problems will continue or worsen.

Different factors can affect concrete and the problems that inspectors will see.  How concrete hardens, strengthens and the qualities of its surface depend on a number of things, including the properties of its constituent materials.  Although Portland cement is the most commonly used binder, pozzolans may be substituted. Pozzolans are materials that, in addition to undergoing primary hydration, undergo a secondary hydration, producing a gel that fills tiny voids between cement particles, making concrete less porous and less likely to absorb moisture or chemical solutions that can damage concrete or steel reinforcement.

The constituent materials which are included in the mix, their proportions, the order in which they are combined, the length of time and method by which they are mixed, and the length of time between mixing to placing all affect the quality of concrete. With each decision and operation, there is a chance that mistakes will be made. The environmental conditions that exist during placing, finishing and curing concrete will have an effect on how it develops. The ground and air temperatures, wind speed, cloud cover, and the absorbent qualities of the substrate will affect newly placed concrete.

When initially mixed together, Portland cement and water rapidly form a gel, formed of tangled chains of interlocking crystals. These continue to react over time, with the initially fluid gel often aiding in placement by improving workability. As the concrete sets, the chains of crystals join and form a rigid structure, gluing the aggregate particles in place. During curing, more of the cement reacts with the residual water (hydration).  This curing process develops physical and chemical properties. Among these qualities are mechanical strength, low moisture permeability and chemical and volumetric stability.

Cracks that appear before the concrete has hardened are called plastic cracks.  Plastic cracks are typically due to poor mix design, placement practices or curing methods, and may also be caused by settlement, construction movement, and excessively high rates of evaporation. Cracks that appear after concrete has hardened can have a variety of causes, and sometimes have more than one cause.

Plastic shrinkage is shrinkage caused by the loss of water to the atmosphere. Autogenous shrinkage is shrinkage that takes place with no loss of water to the atmosphere.  Autogenous shrinkage is caused by internal drying, with water being absorbed by the constituent materials in the concrete.  As the long-term chemical hydration process continues – and it can continue for many years — water in the pores within the cement paste is absorbed, and the pores are filled, to some degree, by materials produced during hydration. This process leads to decreased permeability and increased strength and durability of the cement paste. Absorption of water from the pores also causes shrinkage.

When purchasing a new property it is important to have the building inspected by a qualified residential or commercial inspector.  Trust the Barrie Home Inspector for your Residential or Commercial Inspections.  Visit www.guaranteedresidentialinspections.com for more information. As a Certified Building Code Official with over 4,000 inspections your investment will be in good hands.  Experience and knowledge can help protect your investment.

Buying Older Home – Typical Problems

Basements, Exterior

Buying Older Home – Typical Problems.  When buying an older home you are usually buying a home with built in character which has withstood the test of time and is still in habitable condition.  There are some inherent problems that you might encounter when purchasing an older home.  I have listed a few basic ones just for consideration.

Your older homes foundation is probably constructed of cement and stone.  There would have been no waterproofing done to the exterior of the foundation and there will be no weeping tile draining into sump.  This inspection area is one of the most important and expensive to repair if faulty.

Knob and tube wiring was usually installed in all older homes and there is usually still porcelain insulators present even if it was all removed.  You have to have a home inspector or electrician check to ensure all the knob and tube wiring was replaced.  The knob and tube was usually replaced with older two wire which has no ground and unless a total rehab was done on building you will still find two wire at outlets on upper floors and other hard to access areas.

Asbestos and vermiculite can be found in many older homes.  Some older homes had hot water boilers with cast iron radiators.  This systems were typically insulated with asbestos insulation.  Vermiculite insulation may contain asbestos and was frequently added to attics in older homes.  Asbestos requires professional removal which is very expensive.

Lead plumbing pipes and galvanized plumbing lines can be very expensive to replace and were used on most older homes.  Most insurance companies in Ontario will not insure a home with galvanized plumbing pipes.  Galvanized pipes tend to corrode from the inside out so that there is no warning that a pipe is about to burst.

Older homes may have many layers of lead paint which has built up over the years.  Lead-based paint is a major source of lead poisoning for children and can also affect adults. In children, lead poisoning can cause irreversible brain damage and can impair mental functioning. It can retard mental and physical development and reduce attention span. It can also retard fetal development even at extremely low levels of lead.  Thus, young children, fetuses, infants, and adults with high blood pressure are the most vulnerable to the effects of lead.

Your house is old and gorgeous, as are those wonderfully ornate cast-iron radiators, but these days, energy prices are anything but old-fashioned. Older homes have radiators sized for a time when open-window ventilation was popular and insulation was uncommon. If you’ve insulated and updated your windows, your radiators are most likely larger than they need to be.  You should have your home assessed by a heating expert to evaluate the expense and available options if required to upgrade your heating system.

The Barrie Home Inspector has many years of experience in inspecting Century Homes and is also a Certified Building Code Official with the Ontario Building Officials Association.  Commercial Building inspections also entail the same problems as residential and buyers have to be aware of the risks and hazards involved in purchasing older properties.  Visit the Barrie Home Inspector’s site at www.barriehomeinspector.com to obtain more information and advice when dealing with older homes.

Building Basics by Angus Real Estate Agents

Basements, Exterior

Building Basics by Angus Real Estate Agents. If you are building a wall for a home addition, garage or other structure, it is important to be able to read construction drawings to identify all the dimensions for the walls which are given on the floor plan and elevation. The walls are to be laid out the same as on the floor plan, with all measurements followed exactly. The openings for doors and windows must be placed exactly. It is important that the corners be set on the foundation exactly as given on the detail drawing on the foundation plan. Taking measurements from the foundation or floor plan, and transferring those measurements to the foundation, footing or floor slab is the first step in laying out the wall.

Traditional stucco is made of lime, sand, and water. Modern stucco is made of Portland cement, sand, and water. Lime is added to increase the permeability and workability of modern stucco. Sometimes additives such as acrylics and glass fibers are added to improve the structural properties of the plaster. This is usually done with what is considered a one-coat stucco system, as opposed to the traditional three-coat method.  As a building material, stucco is a durable, attractive, and weather-resistant wall covering. It was traditionally used as both an interior and exterior finish applied in one or two thin layers directly over a solid masonry, brick or stone surface. The finish coat usually contained an integral color and was typically textured for appearance.

In the field of human-wildlife conflicts, probably the most common scenario nationwide is the squirrel in the attic.
Most people become aware that an animal is living in their attic when they hear scampering, or scratching noises above the ceiling. A wide variety of animals choose to live in the attics of buildings, from rats and mice, bats and pigeons, raccoon’s, opossums, and of course squirrels. Most of these animals will oftentimes use other areas of the home as well, from the soffits to the wall voids to the space between floors, so the attic is not the only area you’ll find critters.

A plumbing fixture could refer to a receptacle or device that is either permanently or temporarily connected to the water distribution system of the property, and which demands a supply of water.  Or the fixture could discharge waste water, liquid-suspended waste materials or sewage to the drainage system of the property.  The fixture could also require both a water supply connection and a discharge to the drainage system of the property.  Plumbing fixtures include water closets, urinals, bidets, lavatories, sinks, showers, bathtubs and floor drains.

There should be at least 15 inches of space from the center of a water closet, lavatory or bidet to any sidewall, partition, cabinet or any other obstruction. There should be at least 30 inches of space between adjacent fixtures. There should be a space of at least 21 inches in front of the water closet, lavatory or bidet to any wall, fixture or door. This clearance is for comfortable, adequate space for cleaning and use of the fixture.

A septic tank is used to hold wastewater while the wastewater’s solids and liquids separate.  The heavier solids in the wastewater, called sludge, sink to the bottom of the tank.  There it will slowly decompose.  A properly functioning septic tank will remove 75% of the suspended solids, oil and grease from the effluent.  The lighter, floatable material, called scum, rises to the surface and becomes trapped between devices at the tank’s inlet and outlet, either baffles or sanitary tees.  When wastewater enters the tank, it pushes relatively clean effluent, called “the clear zone” that located in the settling area between the scum and the sludge layers, out of the tank.

The Best Barrie Home Inspector provides visial and Thermal Imaging inspections of all major components of your home.  A small investment considering the expense of buying property.  Visit <a href=”http://www.barrie-home-inspector.com”>The Best Barrie Home Inspector’s Site</a> to arrange an inspection.

Masonry Block – Building Tips

Basements, Exterior

Masonry Block – Building Tips. Every block wall-regardless of height or length-should be placed on a secure footing of poured concrete. A block barbecue grill or outdoor fireplace requires a large concrete pad as a footing. The footing must extend down beyond the frost line to prevent heaving in the winter.

For a footing poured in an area where drainage is a problem, lay a drain line along the outer edge of the form. Allow for a drop of about 1″ for each 20′ of drain line. Backfill over the drain line with about 12″ of crushed stone or gravel. In Ontario this is mandatory and must be installed for any building of 100 square feet in size.

Building exact corners is the most important construction of a masonry wall as corners will guide the building of the rest of the wall. A corner pole will make the job easier. A corner pole is any type of post which can be braced into a true vertical position and which will hold a taut mason’s line without bending. Two such poles are set up, one on each corner, with the mason’s line stretched between them. Corner poles for block walls should be marked every 4 to 8 inches, depending on how high the material is with which you are building the wall. Such marks must be absolutely level when the mason’s line is stretched between them.

Set the corner block first. Be sure you are using the correct block. Check the starting corner block, both horizontally and vertically, and take time to get it positioned correctly. All other blocks will align with this starter block, so it’s very important to set it exactly. Follow this same procedure as you reach the other corners, laying the first course out about two or three blocks in each direction. Tie a line between two bricks and stretch it between the two corner blocks on the first course.

Corners and lead blocks are generally built 4-6 rows high, with each course being stepped back one block from the course below, creating a pyramid effect. The wall alignment, plumb and level should be checked on these corners before completing the wall. If everything checks out fine, it is now time to fill in each course between the corners.

Because they can be adjusted in size slightly, mortar joints provide some layout flexibility. While the ideal mortar joint is 3⁄8 inch wide, masons routinely shrink joints to as small as 1⁄4 inch or stretch them to as large as1⁄2 inch. Joints that fall out- side this range are unsightly and, with a few small exceptions, prohibited by most building codes.

The Barrie Home Inspector uses his training to ensure every building inspected meets or exceeds the required building code practices. As a Certified Building Code Official he is one of the few Barrie Home Inspector’s with Ontario Building Code training in both Part 9 and Part 3 of the Building Code.

Bricks for Homes and Buildings

Exterior

Bricks for Homes and Buildings. In the past, bricks came in many different shapes and sizes, but today’s modern bricks tend to be a standard size of around 8″ x 4″ x 2″. They demonstrate a wide variety of textures, colours and finishes from yellows, reds and purples, to smooth, rough and rustic. These are due to the mineral variations found in the clay, and the method of manufacturing.

Raw surface clay and shale materials are taken from the ground in a process that is called winning. Materials are then carefully blended to control the quality, color and consistency of the desired finished product. The material is then formed by adding water and mixing materials in a pug mill. After mixing, the pugged clay is forced through a die creating a long extruded column of clay which is then wirecut to size. The material is then carried by conveyor systems into the firing kiln where it is first predried, and then carried through the firing stage of the kiln where temperatures can reach nearly 2000 degrees Farenheit. The brick can then be cubed and stored for shipping.

Bricks for building may be made from clay, shale, soft slate, calcium silicate, concrete, or shaped from quarried stone. However, true bricks are ceramic, and therefore created by the action of heat and cooling. Clay is the most common material, with modern clay bricks formed in one of three processes – soft mud, dry press, or extruded. Bricks are used for building and pavement. In the USA, brick pavement was found incapable of withstanding heavy traffic, but it is coming back into use as a method of traffic calming or as a decorative surface in pedestrian precincts. For example, in the early 1900s, most of the streets in the city of Grand Rapids, Michigan were paved with brick. Today, there are only about 20 blocks of brick paved streets remaining.

Solid brickwork is made of two or more layers of bricks with the units running horizontally (called stretcher bricks) bound together with bricks running transverse to the wall (called “header” bricks). Each row of bricks is known as a course. The pattern of headers and stretchers employed gives rise to different bonds such as the common bond (with every sixth course composed of headers), the English bond, and the Flemish bond (with alternating stretcher and header bricks present on every course). Bonds can differ in strength and in insulating ability. Vertically staggered bonds tend to be somewhat stronger and less prone to major cracking than a non-staggered bond.

Bricklaying Terms. Before beginning any of the bricklaying projects, study the following terms and their definitions. This will help you understand the various brick positions and patterns, as well as the typical mortar joints used. Bull Header. A rowlock brick laid with its longest dimensions perpendicular to the face of the wall. Bull Stretcher. A rowlock brick laid with its longest dimension parallel to the face of the wall.

Bricks are a versatile and durable building and construction material, with good load-bearing properties, high thermal mass and potential low energy impact. In the case of simple earth bricks such as adobe and CEBs, they measure high on the sustainability index, being made from locally available (and abundant) materials of clay, sand, and water, using low technology compression equipment, solar energy or kilns. While modern methods of brick construction have a much lower sustainability index, the UK brick industry has developed a strategy to minimize its environmental impact and increase its energy efficiency and use of renewable energies. Overall, bricks are a good example of a sustainable building practice and are currently gaining in popularity around the world.

Innovation in brick and block building is moving forward – thin joint mortar allows the depth of the mortar to be reduced from l0mm to just 2mm increases the speed of construction. Thin-joint system improves thermal insulation and air tightness of construction and increases ease of installation – thin joint mortar can be laid twice as fast as traditional mortar.

Your Home’s Structure

Exterior

Your Home’s Structure.  In North America, modern house-construction techniques include light-frame construction (in areas with access to supplies of wood) and adobe or sometimes rammed-earth construction (in arid regions with scarce wood-resources). Some areas use brick almost exclusively, and quarried stone has long provided walling. To some extent, aluminum and steel have displaced some traditional building materials. Increasingly popular alternative construction materials include insulating concrete forms (foam forms filled with concrete), structural insulated panels (foam panels faced with oriented strand board or fiber cement), and light-gauge steel framing and heavy-gauge steel framing.

Houses may be supported by a crawl space, full or partial basement or a floating slab on grade. Basements can be constructed of wood, poured concrete or masonry blocks. Poured concrete is becoming the norm for most housing and is far superior for cost and strength.

Most common wall framing is either balloon or platform type framing. In platform framing, the joists comprise any number of individual floors or platforms that wall framing components are constructed on top of–hence, the term platform framing. Platform framing is the most common method of frame construction. The floor, or platform, is made up of joists that sit on supporting walls, beams or girders and covered with a plywood or OSB sub-floor. In the past, 1x planks set at 45 to the joists were used for the sub-floor. Balloon framing is not permitted anymore due to lack of fire-stopping between floors.

Foundation made of concrete typically will have some cracks that are visible. Most cracks are the result of settling or shrinkage of the concrete during its curing stage. Diagonal cracks that grow in width, especially ones that are wider at the bottom than at the top, indicate settlement. Diagonal cracks over windows indicate a weak header. Diagonal cracks in a poured concrete foundation that are fairly uniform in width or are hairline-type are caused by shrinkage and, though they may allow water entry, do not constitute a structural defect. Some home inspectors think that if the crack follows the mortar joint, rather than going through the brick or block, the crack isn’t a problem. This is false. Walls crack at their weakest point. If the mortar is stronger than the brick, the wall will crack through the brick

The structural support of a roof is typically provided by either stick built rafters or engineered trusses. Collar tie is a colloquial phrase that you usually won’t find in construction or engineering documentation even though the words are commonly used among builders, architects and homeowners. The correct phrase as used in textbooks and when specified is collar beam. Collar beams are usually installed in the upper third of the roof between opposing rafters.

Having your home inspected prior to purchasing is one of the most important items of the transaction. You want to protect yourself from shoddy workmanship or major problems with your homes systems. A house is comprised of many different products installed by various tradesmen and sometimes do-it-yourself type renovators. To ensure Peace of Mind in your next Real Estate transaction use the Barrie Home Inspector for your protection and Peace of Mind. If you have a wood burning appliance then contact www.wett-inspection.com for your insurance companies required WETT Certification.

Repairing Rotting Wood Tips and Techniques

Exterior

Causes of Rotting Wood

Whenever wood has more than 20% moisture exposure it has the potential to deteriorate. It’s very important to keep up on caulking and painting with quality materials to prevent wood rot.

If you are at the point where you already have wood rot we recommend you do not use pine for rot replacement. Pine available on the market today tends to be new growth pine. Pine available today is not as dense as older growth pine and will rot in a very short period of time. So many home owners are so disappointed to find their new homes have extensive wood rot damage within the first five years.
window rot by Barrie Home Inspector

Painting and caulking are two of the home owners best materials that will help prevent wood rot. Caulking is one of the best defenses your home has against moisture. Home owners should be vigilante for the appearance of peeling or cracking paint and cracked or missing caulking. Either of these are indicators that your wood is now being attacked by moisture. As a home inspector I am always reminding my clients of the old but true adage that ” an ounce of prevention is better than a pound of cure.”


Repairing Areas of Wood Rot

Using a wood chisel, an electric drill with a spade bit, or another tool appropriate for the location to remove all of the wet, loose and decayed wood.
Probe the surrounding area with an awl. If it feels as solid as unaffected areas, drill numerous closely spaced holes of 1/8-inch (3-mm) diameter in the wood and inject a liquid wood hardener following the manufactures directions.

Mix two-part epoxy or polyester wood filler as directed. Mix only what you can apply and shape in a few minutes. Once the material hardens it is un-workable and must be thrown away.

Fill the hole or build up the affected area with the wood filler, using a putty knife or flexible plastic spreader. Press hard on knife to work the initial layer into the surface for a good bond.

Clean off the applicator and mixing container immediately

Use a rasp tool to roughly shape or level excess filler as soon as the filler sets up, but before it dries completely.
Use medium or coarse sandpaper to further shape and blend the patch when the filler is completely dry. On flat surfaces, use a rubber sanding block or power sander. On contoured surfaces, use wood dowels or other appropriate shapes to back the sandpaper.

Blow off the dust and apply freshly mixed filler to fill any remaining depressions or pinholes, or to build up more material as needed to attain the desired shape.

Use medium, then fine sandpaper to smooth the patch and feather it into the surrounding wood.

After completely dry prime and paint to suit.

Choosing Your Exterior Paints

For most exterior wood in reasonably good shape, pick a high-quality acrylic primer. It remains elastic and permeable so moisture can “breathe” through the paint skin. This will decrease the chance of the paint bubbling and peeling due to moisture in the walls.

Consider oil- or shellac-based primers for cedar or redwood. With these, you have to factor in problems with tannin staining. Tannin is a natural substance in the wood which will bleed through and cause yellow or brown stains in your finished paint job. It is water soluble, so it will bleed through any water based product. Oil and shellac primers will stop tannin from bleeding through. Some water-based primers claim to be able to stop tannin staining, although sometimes two or more coats will be necessary. Use your own judgment.

Ask at your paint store about breathable oil primers, which are formulated to allow passage of moisture from the house through the paint. (All water-based products, unless they are sold specifically as moisture-barriers, are breathable.) Breathable oil primers would be your best choice to help combat tannin staining some plywood materials, in addition to cedar, redwood.

Use oil-based primers for very punky, soft older wood. Oil-based primers penetrate much deeper into the wood fibers and create a more solid substrate to paint over.

This article is brought to you by Roger Frost, The Barrie Home Inspector, browse our Home Maintenance Tips Blog for more Money Saving Tips

Landscaping Basic Tips for Your Home

Exterior

Landscaping Basic Tips for Your Home. Landscaping is both science and art, and requires good observation and design skills. A good landscaper understands the elements of nature and construction, and blends them accordingly.

Thales, an early Greek philosopher known for his view that “all is water,” spent a considerable time thinking about the nature and scope of landscaping. Some of his students believed that in order for human activity to be considered landscaping, it must be directed toward modifying the physical features of the land itself, including the cultivation and/or manipulation of plants or other flora. Thales rejected this notion, arguing that any aspect of the material world affecting our visual perception of the land was a proper subject for landscaping. Both Plato and Aristotle praised Thales’ analysis as a model for philosophy. In the early 20th century, British philosopher G.E. Moore cited Thales’ reasoning as one of the few historical examples of how philosophical inquiry has led to genuine human understanding and progress.

Landscape architecture is a multi-disciplinary field, incorporating aspects of: botany, horticulture, the fine arts, architecture, industrial design, geology and the earth sciences, environmental psychology, geography, and ecology. The activities of a landscape architect can range from the creation of public parks and parkways to site planning for campuses and corporate office parks, from the design of residential estates to the design of civil infrastructure and the management of large wilderness areas or reclamation of degraded landscapes such as mines or landfills. Landscape architects work on all types of structures and external space – large or small, urban, suburban and rural, and with “hard” (built) and “soft” (planted) materials, while integrating ecological sustainability. The most valuable contribution can be made at the first stage of a project to generate ideas with technical understanding and creative flair for the design, organization, and use of spaces.

Good garden centres group plants according to their sun and shade requirements. Trees and shrubs also have light preferences, so read the plant tags and do some research before deciding what to plant. How many of each plant depends upon the size of the space and the width or spread of the plant. There are two schools of thought about how densely to plant a new garden. If you want your garden to look mature and full its first year, you will need to space young plants more closely or buy larger plants. You will get an immediate impact, but you will also need to begin dividing sooner. If you have the patience to allow your garden to fill in slowly, you can leave room for the plants to grow into their new home and fill in temporarily with annuals.

Floriculture crops include bedding plants, flowering plants, foliage plants or houseplants, cut cultivated greens, and cut flowers. As distinguished from nursery crops, floriculture crops are generally herbaceous. Bedding and garden plants consist of young flowering plants (annuals and perennials) and vegetable plants. They are grown in cell packs (in flats or trays), in pots, or in hanging baskets, usually inside a controlled environment, and sold largely for gardens and landscaping. Geraniums, impatiens, and petunias are the best-selling bedding plants. Chrysanthemums are the major perennial garden plant in the United States.

For your first beginning flower garden, pick a spot that is in full direct sun. It should be sunny all day long or for at least half the day including noontime. Shady gardens can be terrific, but for a first garden with lots of flowers, a sunnier spot is better. First, remove any existing grass or weeds including the roots. The more thoroughly you do this chore now, the better your results will be later. You can dig it out by hand or use a sod cutter; smother it with cardboard or newspaper topped with mulch over several months’ time; or use an herbicide. If you use weed killer, be sure to read and carefully follow ALL of the label directions.

There really is no final choice, since gardens are never finished, but try to be as realistic as you can. Sketching it out on graph paper first, can help you to visualize how your garden will look. This may be the best route to go, but many gardens would never get planted if we waited until we felt things were perfect and it can be hard for a new gardener to equate what’s on paper with reality. Sometimes you just have to get started. You’ll learn as you go. Just make sure that most of your plant choices fit of the criteria you’ve outlined and the growing conditions you have to offer. Try not to squeeze in too many different plants and you’re small space garden should look and grow just fine.

Siding and Cladding for Your Home

Exterior

Siding and Cladding for Your Home.  Nothing will impact the appearance of your home more then the siding that’s on it. When shopping for siding you may want to consider what suits your lifestyle as well as the style of your home. Siding is the outer covering ( A.K.A. Cladding ) of a home meant to shed water and protect the home from the effects of weather but it may also act as a key element in the aesthetic beauty of the structure and directly influence its property value. Here are a few types of siding you may want to consider :

Stucco: Traditional stucco is cement combined with water and inert materials such as sand and lime but many homes built after the 50’s may resemble stucco but they actually use a variety of synthetic materials to achieve the same look. Stucco can be tinted to the colour you want and then the need to paint is gone forever. Synthetic stucco siding is lighter then the traditional and is more likely to suffer damage from a hard blow. It is often compromised of foam insulation board or cement panels screwed to the walls and the stucco is applied around it.

As a building material, stucco is a durable, attractive, and weather-resistant wall covering. It was traditionally used as both an interior and exterior finish applied in one or two thin layers directly over a solid masonry, brick or stone surface. The finish coat usually contained an integral color and was typically textured for appearance.
Stucco or render is a material made of an aggregate, a binder, and water. Stucco is applied wet and hardens to a very dense solid. It is used as a coating for walls and ceilings and for decoration. Stucco may be used to cover less visually appealing construction materials such as concrete, cinder block, or clay brick and adobe.

Stone veneer siding: Stone veneer is used as a decorative and protective covering for both interior and exterior applications. Stones like granite , limestone, slate, etc… are not only beautiful and hardly affected by weather , there also really expensive. That’s why precast stone veneers and facings became popular , the can look genuine ( depending on the product) and are also much more affordable the the real thing. The veneer is typically no thicker then 1″ and must weigh no more then 15 lbs per square foot to be installed without additional structural supports. These veneers can be made from natural stone by cutting the stone into thinner pieces or can be manufactured to look like stone.

Vinyl siding: Vinyl siding is one of if not the most popular type of siding. Unlike wood , this durable plastic will not rot or flake. Vinyl is available in several colour and it is said that it will never have to be painted. Advertisements say that vinyl siding is permanent and although it will last a very long time, it is less durable then wood or masonry. Heavy winds have been known to lift panels from the wall and windblown debris and strong hail can puncture it. New technologies are making this material stronger but the sheets may still crack if struck by a lawnmower or snow blower and unfortunately panels cannot be patched, they can only be replaced.

Engineered wood siding: Engineered wood siding is made from wood products and other materials. The panels can be molded to resemble traditional clapboards although it does not exactly look like real wood due to the fact that it’s textured grain is uniform. It does however look more natural then vinyl or aluminium siding. The benefit of engineered wood siding is that it offers all the advantages of of regular wood siding but in addition, it’s termite resistant and it will not rot,crack or split.

Having a Professional Home Inspector inspect your home prior to purchase will allow your new homes cladding to be inspected by a Professional like the Barrie Home Inspector. He will inspect for cladding of siding failure or poor installation techniques. Having all the information available is paramount prior to purchasing real estate, whether for investment or for your new home.

 

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