Barrie Home Inspector

Home Maintenance and Tips for Home Owners

Tag: drain

Basic Basement Construction

Basements

Basic Basement Construction.  Always check with Barrie Building department and apply for any required permits prior to construction. A basement is an area below the first floor with a minimum height of 6 feet 8 inches. Basements may be created using masonry blocks or poured concrete. Modern homes are typically constructed using forms and poured concrete. Many basements provide added living space, including bedrooms, bath, recreation rooms.

Basement wall damageBasements are typically the area of a structure most at risk for water damage because they are located below grade and surrounded by soil. Soil releases water it has absorbed during rain or when snow melts, and the water can end up in the basement through leaks or cracks.

The roof on your home can collect over 600 gallons per 1000 square feet after 1 inch of rain has fallen. Install and maintain gutters and downspouts so that they route all rainwater and snow melt far enough away from the foundation of the building to ensure that pooling does not occur near the walls of the structure. At least 10 feet from the building is best, and at the point where water leaves the downspout, it should be able to flow freely away from the foundation instead of back toward it, and should not be collecting in pools.

Foundation weeping tiles are actually not tiles but 6 inch diameter plastic pipe with small holes in it. Weeping tile pipe is placed against and level to the bottom of the foundation footing. Once the weeping tile pipe is completely installed, coarse gravel is placed on top and level with the top of the footing.

Newer homes basements are typically protected using a black dimpled product which is attached to perimeter of basement walls. Most home owners think this is a water proofing barrier designed to keep water away from their foundation. The wrap is actually designed to allow water to quickly drain down void, created by the dimples, and enter weeping tile. This prevents any hydraulic water build up against concrete prevent water intrusion.

Sump Pump Installation by Barrie Home InspectorA sump pump is a pump placed in the basement of a home used to pump water from the basement to the outside or drain into the home’s drainage system. Sump pumps usually work in conjunction with a sump pit, which is a hole dug in the basement of a house which collects water during a rainstorm. The pump then pumps the water out of that sump pit.. A sump pump is usually necessary either in cases where the home’s basement is below the water table level, and or when the home is located in a place where flooding is common. In Ontario a sump pump is required by Ontario Building Code and must be installed unless waived by the building official.

Home that are located in areas where a high water table exists typically will have a backup sump pump installed in case of pump failure.  Also a battery back up is sometimes used in case of power failure.   During the home inspection process these are both indicators that a high water table exists and the home owners may have had water issues in their basement.   These are only clues and cannot be the sole evidence used to indicate water issues,  but are a strong indicator that further investigation is required.

Although there are many great books and part time college courses that now teach Home Inspections,  nothing will replace experience and first hand knowledge obtained through building homes and renovation projects over a life time of inspection and construction experience.   Caveat Emptor –  Buyer Beware !

 

For actual inspection pictures of defects please visit the Barrie Home Inspector’s site

Plumbing Basics for Home Owners

Plumbing

Plumbing Basics for Home Owners.  A vent is a pipe or pipes install to provide a flow or air to or from a drainage system to provide a circulation of air within such system to protect trap seals from siphonage and back-pressure. This has a two fold purpose, one to prevent sewer gases from entering home and also to allow air into system for better drainage.

Direct venting of plumbing fixtures is permitted if a plumbing fixture is close enough (eight feet or less) to the main waste stack pipe (vent), the fixture does not usually require its own plumbing vent piping, and it is considered a direct-vented plumbing fixture.

Wet venting is using a drain from another fixture to supply adequate venting to another fixture, usually a toilet.  The theory for wet venting is that the flow in the wet vent portion of the piping will be low because there will only be one occupant in the bathroom and only one fixture being used.

Stack venting in attic

 

Plumbing smells or noises can be caused by improperly installed drains and vents.  There a many cases where improper glue and venting has resulted in sewer gas entering an unsuspecting homeowners property.  Improper use of glue, loose connections and vents not vented to exterior can all be attributed to work being performed by un-licensed workers.  Always used a trained a licensed plumber when renovating or repairing your homes plumbing system.

There are many different types of choices when it comes to plumbing your home. For water supply, there is PVC, CPVC. PEX, Galvanized Pipe, and copper. Copper and CPVC are the most popular. CPVC is the easiest to install. CPVC tubing is ideal for water supply lines. It’s easy to cut and assemble, using compression of cemented fittings. It’s durable too. Harsh water won’t harm the material, unlike copper, which will erode from acidic water.

 

That “blub blub” or “glug glug” noise you hear from a building drain might mean that there is a problem with the drain system itself, such as a partial drain blockage, a drain venting problem, a drain odor problem, or even a failing septic system.  If a gurgling sound is heard at a sink or shower drain only when a nearby toilet is flushed, or at a sink or shower when a nearby tub is draining, we’d suspect that the building drain-vent system is inadequate.

Many plumbing problems can be fixed by the homeowner and some require the expertise of a licensed trades person.  Any  plumbing supply problem should be dealt with by a professional as the cost of clean up and repair can far outweigh any savings you may incur.

Masonry Block – Building Tips

Basements, Exterior

Masonry Block – Building Tips. Every block wall-regardless of height or length-should be placed on a secure footing of poured concrete. A block barbecue grill or outdoor fireplace requires a large concrete pad as a footing. The footing must extend down beyond the frost line to prevent heaving in the winter.

For a footing poured in an area where drainage is a problem, lay a drain line along the outer edge of the form. Allow for a drop of about 1″ for each 20′ of drain line. Backfill over the drain line with about 12″ of crushed stone or gravel. In Ontario this is mandatory and must be installed for any building of 100 square feet in size.

Building exact corners is the most important construction of a masonry wall as corners will guide the building of the rest of the wall. A corner pole will make the job easier. A corner pole is any type of post which can be braced into a true vertical position and which will hold a taut mason’s line without bending. Two such poles are set up, one on each corner, with the mason’s line stretched between them. Corner poles for block walls should be marked every 4 to 8 inches, depending on how high the material is with which you are building the wall. Such marks must be absolutely level when the mason’s line is stretched between them.

Set the corner block first. Be sure you are using the correct block. Check the starting corner block, both horizontally and vertically, and take time to get it positioned correctly. All other blocks will align with this starter block, so it’s very important to set it exactly. Follow this same procedure as you reach the other corners, laying the first course out about two or three blocks in each direction. Tie a line between two bricks and stretch it between the two corner blocks on the first course.

Corners and lead blocks are generally built 4-6 rows high, with each course being stepped back one block from the course below, creating a pyramid effect. The wall alignment, plumb and level should be checked on these corners before completing the wall. If everything checks out fine, it is now time to fill in each course between the corners.

Because they can be adjusted in size slightly, mortar joints provide some layout flexibility. While the ideal mortar joint is 3⁄8 inch wide, masons routinely shrink joints to as small as 1⁄4 inch or stretch them to as large as1⁄2 inch. Joints that fall out- side this range are unsightly and, with a few small exceptions, prohibited by most building codes.

The Barrie Home Inspector uses his training to ensure every building inspected meets or exceeds the required building code practices. As a Certified Building Code Official he is one of the few Barrie Home Inspector’s with Ontario Building Code training in both Part 9 and Part 3 of the Building Code.

Seasonal Home Maintenance Schedule

Personal Interest

Seasonal Home Maintenance

Make sure air vents indoors and outdoors (intake, exhaust and forced air) are not blocked by snow or debris.

Check and clean range hood filters on a monthly basis.

Test ground fault circuit interrupter(s) on electrical outlets monthly by pushing the test button, which should then cause the reset button to pop up.

If there are young children in the house, make sure electrical outlets are equipped with safety plugs.

Regularly check the house for safety hazards, such as a loose handrail, lifting or buckling flooring, inoperative smoke detectors, and so on.

Fall

Have furnace or heating system serviced by a qualified service company every two years for a gas furnace, and every year for an oil furnace, or as recommended by the manufacturer.

If you have central air conditioning, make sure the drain pan under the cooling coil mounted in the furnace plenum is draining properly and is clean.

Lubricate circulating pump on hot water heating system.

Bleed air from hot <a href=”http://www.napoleon.cc/cottage/”target=”_blank”rel=”external”title=”Midland Cottage Inspections” >water radiators.

Disconnect the power to the furnace and examine the forced-air furnace fan belt, if installed, for wear, looseness or noise; clean fan blades of any dirt buildup.

Check chimneys for obstructions such as nests.

Vacuum electric baseboard heaters to remove dust.

Remove the grilles on forced-air systems and vacuum inside the ducts.

Turn ON gas furnace pilot light (if your furnace has one), set the thermostat to “heat” and test the furnace for proper operation by raising the thermostat setting until the furnace starts to operate. Once you have confirmed proper operation, return the thermostat to the desired setting.

Check and clean or replace furnace air filters each month during the heating season. Ventilation system, such as heat recovery ventilator, filters should be checked every two months.

Check to see that the ductwork leading to and from the heat recovery ventilator is in good shape, the joints are tightly sealed (aluminum tape or mastic) and any duct insulation and plastic duct wrap is free of tears and holes.

If the heat recovery ventilator has been shut off for the summer, clean the filters and the core, and pour water down the condensate drain to test it.

Check to see that bathroom exhaust fans and range hoods are operating properly. If possible, confirm that you are getting good airflow by observing the outside vent hood (the exterior damper should be held open by the airflow).

Check smoke, carbon monoxide and security alarms, and replace batteries.

Clean portable humidifier, if one is used.

Check sump pump and line to ensure proper operation, and to ascertain that there are no line obstructions or visible leaks.

Replace window screens with storm windows.

Remove interior insect screens from windows to allow air from the heating system to keep condensation off window glass and to allow more free solar energy into your home.

Ensure windows and skylights close tightly; repair or replace weatherstripping, as needed.

Ensure all doors to the outside shut tightly, and check other doors for ease of use. Replace door weatherstripping if required.

If there is a door between your house and the garage, check the adjustment of the self-closing device to ensure it closes the door completely.

Cover outside of air-conditioning units and shut off power.

Ensure that the ground around your home slopes away from the foundation wall, so that water does not drain into your basement.

Clean leaves from eaves troughs and roof, and test downspouts to ensure proper drainage from the roof.

Drain and store outdoor hoses. Close interior valve to outdoor hose connection and drain the hose bib (exterior faucet), unless your house has frost-proof hose bibs.

Have well water tested for quality. It is recommended that you test for bacteria every six months.

If you have a septic tank, measure the sludge and scum to determine if the tank needs to be emptied before the spring. Tanks should be pumped out at least once every three years.

Winterize landscaping, for example, store outdoor furniture, prepare gardens and, if necessary, protect young trees or bushes for winter.

Winter

Check and clean or replace furnace air filters each month during the heating season. Ventilation system, such as heat recovery ventilator, filters should be checked every two months.

After consulting your hot water tank owner’s manual, drain off a dishpan full of water from the clean-out valve at the bottom of your hot water tank to control sediment and maintain efficiency.

Clean humidifier two or three times during the winter season.

Vacuum bathroom fan grille.

Vacuum fire and smoke detectors, as dust or spider webs can prevent them from functioning.

Vacuum radiator grilles on back of refrigerators and freezers, and empty and clean drip trays.

Check pressure gauge on all fire extinguishers; recharge or replace if necessary.

Check fire escape routes, door and window locks and hardware, and lighting around outside of house; ensure family has good security habits.

Check the basement floor drain to ensure the trap contains water; refill with water if necessary.

Monitor your home for excessive moisture levels — for example, condensation on your windows, which can cause significant damage over time and pose serious health problems — and take corrective action if necessary. Mould may become an issue if you have excessive humidity in your home.

Check all faucets for signs of dripping and change washers as needed. Faucets requiring frequent replacement of washers may be in need of repair.

If you have a plumbing fixture that is not used frequently, such as a laundry tub or spare bathroom sink, tub or shower stall, run some water briefly to keep water in the trap.

Clean drains in dishwasher, sinks, bathtubs and shower stalls.

Test plumbing shut-off valves to ensure they are working and to prevent them from seizing.

Examine windows and doors for ice accumulation or cold air leaks. If found, make a note to repair or replace in the spring.

Examine attic for frost accumulation. Check roof for ice dams or icicles. If there is excessive frost or staining of the underside of the roof, or ice dams on the roof surface. Call in a qualified home inspector or roofing consultant if you suspect you have ice damming problem.

Keep snow clear of gas meters, gas appliance vents, exhaust vents and basement windows.

Monitor outdoor vents, gas meters and chimneys for ice and snow buildup. Consult with an appropriate contractor or your gas utility for information on how to safely deal with any ice problems you may discover.

Check electrical cords, plugs and outlets for all indoor and outdoor seasonal lights to ensure fire safety; if worn, or if plugs or cords feel warm to the touch, replace immediately. Do not use extension cords as permanent wiring as they are not designed for this purpose.

Spring

After consulting your hot water tank owner’s manual, carefully test the temperature and pressure relief valve to ensure it is not stuck. Caution: This test may release hot water that can cause burns.

Check and clean or replace furnace air filters each month during the heating season. Ventilation system, such as heat recovery ventilator, filters should be checked every two months. Recommend using a pleated filter with metal strips for electrostatic dust collection as the minimum type of filter to install. If using a washable filter ensure it does not restrict air for furnace which can cause early failure of fan unit.

Have fireplace or wood stove and chimney cleaned and serviced as needed.

Shut down, drain and clean furnace humidifier, and close the furnace humidifier damper on units with central air conditioning. Remove and clean filter. Empty water tray to prevent algae etc from forming.

Switch on power to air conditioning and check system. Have it serviced every two or three years.

Clean or replace air-conditioning filter, if applicable.

Check dehumidifier and drain — clean if necessary.

Turn OFF gas furnace and fireplace pilot lights where possible.

Have well water tested for quality. It is recommended that you test for bacteria every six months. Bypass any filters before performing tests.

Check smoke, carbon monoxide and security alarms, and replace batteries. Every level of homes in Ontario require a working smoke detector.

Clean windows, screens and hardware, and replace storm windows with screens. Check screens first and repair or replace if needed.

Open valve to outside hose connection after all danger of frost has passed.

Examine the foundation walls for cracks, leaks or signs of moisture, and repair as required. Silcone caulking is ideal for minor cracks. If there are any major cracks, foam or epoxy injection may be required.

Ensure sump pump is operating properly before the spring thaw sets in. Ensure discharge pipe is connected and allows water to drain away from the foundation.

Re-level any exterior steps or decks that moved as a result of frost or settling. Ensure all steps are the same height and remove any trip hazards by re-leveling patio stones.

Check for and seal off any holes in exterior cladding that could be an entry point for small pests, such as bats and squirrels. Foam or caulking is a good filler.

Check eavestroughs and downspouts for loose joints and secure attachment to your home, clear any obstructions, and ensure water flows away from your foundation. Using splash pads can help ensure all water is drained away from homes. Most basement water problems come from improper grade or water drainage from downspouts.

Clear all drainage ditches and culverts of debris.

Repair and paint fences as necessary — allow wood fences to dry adequately before tackling this task.

Undertake spring landscape maintenance and, if necessary, fertilize young trees.

Summer

Monitor basement humidity and avoid relative humidity levels above 60 per cent. Use a dehumidifier to maintain relative humidity below 60 per cent.

Clean or replace air-conditioning filter, and clean or replace ventilation system filters if necessary. Remember most a/c technicians now recommend that you do not completely cover your unit for the winter. This traps in condensation and can actually damage unit.

Check basement pipes for condensation or dripping and, if necessary, take corrective action; for example, reduce humidity and/or insulate cold water pipes.

Check the basement floor drain to ensure the trap contains water; refill with water if necessary. Newer homes have fill line from laundry and typically condensate lines from furnace or a/c unit will ensure enough water is kept in trap.

If you have a plumbing fixture that is not used frequently, for example, a laundry tub or spare bathroom sink, tub or shower stall, run some water briefly to keep water in the trap.

Deep clean carpets and rugs.

Vacuum bathroom fan grille.

Disconnect the duct connected to your clothes dryer, and vacuum lint from duct, the areas surrounding your dryer and your dryer’s vent hood outside. Don’t forget to check and clean the outside grill and duct.

Check security of all guardrails and handrails.

Check smooth functioning of all windows, and lubricate as required. Check for damaged thermal seals which will allow moisture between panes of glass. Recommend replacing thermal unit rather than drilling holes to allow moisture out which costs up to 40% of cost of replacing window. You still end up with damaged window and can affect your resale value because any competent home inspector will note the holes drilled in glass.

Inspect window sills for any signs of cracking mortar on sills or bricks. This can allow water to enter behind brick and can do some serious damage to brick below, if not monitored brick spalling may occur.

Sand and touch up paint on windows and doors. Check all caulking.

Lubricate door hinges, and tighten screws as needed.

Check for and replace damaged caulking and weather stripping around mechanical and electrical services, windows and doorways, including the doorway between the garage and the house. Although an automatic door closure is required for your Occupancy Permit there is no “legal requirement” for you to maintain a closure.

Lubricate garage door hardware, and ensure it is operating properly. White lithium type grease is best for this project.

Lubricate automatic garage door opener motor, chain and other moving parts, and ensure that the auto-reverse mechanism is properly adjusted. Use grease or oil as recommended by manufacturer for best results. Operating instructions can usually be found online if orginal is lost or mis-placed.

Inspect electrical service lines for secure attachment where they enter your house, and make sure there is no water leakage into the house along the electrical conduit. Check for overhanging tree branches that may need to be removed. Tree branches are typically looked after by Municipality or City and a phone call is all that is required.

Check exterior wood siding and trim for signs of deterioration; clean, replace or refinish as needed. Check for any cracked or missing caulking. Re-align any siding with gaps.

Remove any plants that contact — and roots that penetrate — the siding or brick. The building code requires 8 inches of clearance from grade. Moisture will cause brick surfaces to spall if soil or snow is allowed to build up against brick surface. Treating with water proofing will help prevent this if grade cannot be changed.

From the ground, check the general condition of the roof and note any sagging that could indicate structural problems requiring further investigation from inside the attic. Note the condition of shingles for possible repair or replacement, and examine roof flashings, such as at chimney and roof joints, for any signs of cracking or leakage.

Check the chimney cap and the caulking between the cap and the chimney. Recommend having Home Inspector or Mason inspect your roof and chimney areas.

Repair driveway and walkways as needed. Sealing the crack between asphalt driveway and garage floor is a very important preventive maintenance project and will prevent driveway from sagging in future.

Repair any damaged steps. Use cement epoxy type products to ensure proper seal.

Remember an “Ounce of Prevention is Worth a Pound of Cure”

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Uni-stone Pavers and Polymeric Sand

Exterior

Uni-stone Pavers and Polymeric Sand.  Polymeric sand is what professional uni-stone installers use to ensure a filler that is not bothered by the erosion of seasonal weather.

Wnen you open up a bag of polymeric sand and you find it looks like ordinary, free-flowing sand, but it is how it behaves when you put it down. But unlike regular sand, the polymeric product firms up in reaction with water and forms a barrier unlike using normal sand.

Installing polymeric sand is not that complicated and if you follow the instructions below will be fairly simple.

When you are installing polymeric sand in a new paving brick installation? There’s nothing different you need to do while putting the bricks down. If you’ve got an existing pathway that had ordinary sand applied originally, then you need to clean out all the gaps of old sand with a pressure washer. You must create a brand new installation, minus the laying of pavers of course. The main thing to understand about polymeric sand is that it must be installed on a dry surface.

Polymeric sand is activated by water, and it turns quite liquid even with a little moisture. You need dry conditions, with no chance of rain for a day. Check with weather man before starting project.

Spreading polymeric sand begins the same as with normal paver installation. Pour a thin layer as smoothly as possible over the whole pathway surface, then use a stiff-bristled push broom to spread the sand around and begin working it into the gaps.

The trick is to use a a gas-powered vibrator afterwards. This vibrates the sand deep down into the gaps, an essential part of any long-lasting installation.

The broom alone might seem to do a good job, but don’t be fooled. It actually leaves behind hidden gaps that lead to sand collapse later. Don’t skip the compactor.

With all brick gaps fully filled with sand, you’re about to face the most important part of the job: pre-activation cleaning. Since poly sand turns goopy when wet, you must have the surface of the bricks completely and absolutely clean before applying water.

Any sand remaining on the surface will mar the appearance of the brick, so be diligent. Use a soft-bristled broom to move all remaining surface sand into the gaps, going over the surface at least twice, just to make sure.

Now it’s time to activate the sand, and success here requires finesse. You need to gently apply a fine spray of water to moisten the sand, but not so much that it moves any sand up and out of the brick gaps.

It’s a balancing act, so be careful. After an initial misting, let the sand begin to firm up for 15 or 20 minutes, then add more water while watching carefully. Before you’re done, you need to apply enough water to wet the entire depth of sand you’ve added. This could take three or four or five wettings, just be careful.

The danger is that you apply water too fast, causing surface sand to be washed out of the gaps and onto the bricks. When you think you’ve wet the surface enough, take a framing nail or three-inch deck screw and burrow down into a joint gap just to be sure. If it’s not wet all the way, keep up the misting and pausing cycle.

Polymeric sand isn’t foolproof, and it doesn’t eliminate all the problems encountered with regular sand, but it’s still more than worthwhile. Use it to get the most from your paving brick installation and you’ll spend more time enjoying the look, without fretting that ordinary sand washes away so easily.

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Maintenance Tips – Protect Roof From Winter Damage

Real Estate

Maintenance Tips – Protect Roof From Winter Damage.  As the winters approach nearer, homeowners suffer a massive headache. You may need to call a professional roofer in case your ceiling has turned to mush and your gutters are tearing away from the house. Follow the given steps that are helpful in protecting your home from the harsh winters. Your safety must top the list of important to- dos. If you are unable to reach the roof easily, do not try to go further.

The major cause behind the build up of ice and snow on the roof is warm attic. If your house lacks proper insulation and ventilation, it lets the heat vanish from the roof through the attic. It allows te snow on the roof to melt on a faster rate that gives rise to formation of ice on the roof. It may clog the gutters and damage the roof.

To clear the snow from your roof, it is good to invest in a snow rake. Whenever a heavy storm occurs, it is suggested to clear the roof. Start from the top of the roof and move downwards. Be careful not to damage the shingles.

Heavy ice build up on the roof is a real threat, as it may result in heavy gutters that get ripped away quite easily. Use a hammer to carefully chip away the ice, if you are also going through the same phase.

Pressure builds up because of frozen water in the pipes, which may result in bursting of pipes. Pipes most vulnerable to freezing are the ones that are present in outside walls, attics and crawl spaces. To reduce the problem of frozen pipes, follow the given tips.

To slow down the heat transfer rate, fit exposed pipes with insulation sleeves or wrapping. High amount of insulation is always better. If there are holes and cracks in the outside walls, it is advised to fasten them with caulking, as soon as possible.

For the water to drain off easily, keep the drains and downspouts clean. Debris like twigs, dirt and leaves act as a hurdle in proper drainage. So it is important to clear the roof off all such things. Also remove any tree branches that might be resting on your roof.

It is important to regularly inspect and maintain your roof, especially in winter season. This way, you will not have to face a leak or a costly roof repair.

Scott Rodgers is a famous writer who has been writing on roofing since a long time now. His skill has given motivation to a lot of workers, ranging from Everett Roofers

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