Barrie Home Inspector

Home Maintenance and Tips for Home Owners

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Avoid Water Leaks on New Window Installations

Windows and Doors

Avoid Water Leaks on New Window Installations. Avoiding leaks when installing vinyl retrofit windows is simple with a little expertise and common sense.

These days a lot of homeowners are replacing their old windows with vinyl windows using the retrofit style of window frame. This is particularly true in the west, and specifically, in California. The number one argument that I have heard against using the retrofit method, is that it is susceptible to water leaks. Well, that’s true if you don’t do it properly. But, if you do a complete tear out of your old window down to the studs, you’re going to have water leak issues there as well if you don’t install the new window properly. So I think that argument is, well, all wet. So, let me tell you the best way to install your retrofit windows that will ensure that water cannot get in.

There is an old song that goes, “It never rains in California, but girl don’t they warn ya, it pours, man it pours”. For those of you in California, you know how true this is. While California doesn’t get a lot of annual rainfall, when it does rain, it can come down in buckets due to the close proximity to the ocean. So, you want to be sure that your windows are well sealed. If you are installing retrofit frames against a stucco house, you want to put a thick bead of sealant right on the outside face of the old window frame, all the way around. Latex caulk should work fine, but if you want to spend a little more to get the best sealant available, use 100% silicone. Depending on the number of windows you will be doing, this extra cost can add up. You pay approximately for a tube of acrylic latex caulk, and or more for a tube of 100% silicone. You are going to use 1-3 tubes per window, depending on the size. So you can see how it could add up. Here is a trick that I used to do to save a little money; The most vulnerable part of your installation is the top of the window, because gravity will have the water running down from the roof to the ground. It’s not likely that water is going to find it’s way through the sides or bottom. So, I used to carry two caulking guns, and load one with the silicone, and the other with the acrylic caulk. I would run the silicone accross the top of the old frame, and caulk the sides and bottom. Then, put your new window into the opening and have a helper hold it firmly in place while you plumb and level it, then screw it into place. After you have the window completely installed, your final step should be to caulk where the retrofit lip meets the stucco. Here again, I used to use white silicone on the top, and caulk on the sides and bottom. You now have a double barrier against water infiltration. After about a week, check the sealant around each window for signs of cracking. Because stucco is usually uneven, there could have been gaps that were larger in some areas than in others. If you don’t force the caulk into the gap to completely fill it, the caulk can sag before drying, causing a crack to form. Simply recaulk over any cracks that you see. You can check the silicone on top as well, but because silicone dries like a rubber substance, you shouldn’t see any cracks there.

OK, what if the replacement windows are going between wood trim surrounding the opening? If you are using the retrofit lip, and trimming it to fit between the wood, then you still apply the heavy bead to the old frame before installing the window. But, instead of sealing where the retrofit lip meets the stucco, you seal where it meets the wood. Then, you want to be sure to seal above the window, where the top piece of wood meets the stucco. Again, use silicone up there. Now, no water can run down the stucco wall and get under the top piece of wood. Sometimes, though, you might decide not to use a retrofit style frame between the wood, choosing a block replacement frame instead. If you choose to do it this way, you have to add trim to the outside. You still want to apply the sealant to the old frame, then apply your trim so it contacts the new window as well as the sealant on the old frame.

If you follow these procedures, you won’t have to worry about any water penetrating into your home, I don’t care how hard it pours!

DUAL PANE WINDOW GLASS REPAIR

Windows and Doors

DUAL PANE WINDOW GLASS REPAIR. For the past few weeks, I have been explaining how to repair a broken window pane in your home. But, what if you have dual pane windows? Is the process the same? Well, pretty much, except for a couple of variations. So, let’s review the single pane repair process, and I will point out the differences regarding dual pane windows.

When we start talking about dual pane windows, one of the first things that comes to mind is vinyl window frames instead of aluminum. When dealing with dual pane windows, you can have either aluminum or vinyl frames, depending on the year the house was built. Dual pane glass got popular in the 1980′s, but vinyl frames didn’t really catch on until the 1990′s. So, if your house is less than 10 years old, chances are you have vinyl framed windows. In either case, I will discuss the differences. Let’s say you have a sliding aluminum frame window with dual pane glass. The procedure for removing the frame from the opening and the glass from the sash is the same as with the single pane windows. The differences are, first, the glass goes into the frame about twice as far as the single pane window. The single pane window glass went 1/4″ into the surrounding rubber. The dual pane usually goes 1/2″ into the rubber. So, if both pieces of glass have been broken, you are going to have to order a new IGU (Insulated Glass Unit) from the local glass shop. They are going to want to know the width, height, overall thickness, and possibly the individual glass thickness. The best way to get the dimensions is to measure the width and height from rubber to rubber, write those numbers down. Then, remove the panel from the opening and place it on a table like we did with the single pane window. Remove the screws from opposite corners and pull of the frame. You will be able to see how far the glass goes into the surrounding rubber. If it’s 1/2″, then you want to add 1″ to the width and height that you measured previously (1/2″ times two sides= 1″). Then, measure the overall thickness of the unit by removing the rubber from the glass edge. Typically, this dimension is 1/2″, but not always. There is a metal spacer that divides the two panes of glass. Make a note of the color so you can request the same color in the new IGU. It’s either going to be silver or bronze. If you want to get the same size spacer, you need to give the glass shop the thickness of each piece of glass in the IGU. If the old unit has 1/8″ glass on both sides, and the overall thickness of the unit is 1/2″, then they will use a 1/4″ spacer. If the glass is 3/32″ on both sides, they will use a 5/16″ spacer. If you don’t care about matching the spacer thickness, you can request the thicker 1/8″ glass, and they will automatically use a 1/4″ spacer.

When you get the new IGU home, the installation is the same as the single pane window. Now, what if only one side of the IGU has been broken? Many times the outer pane will break, but the inside pane is fine. You can order a whole new IGU like we just did, or, if you’re the adventurous type, you can order only the single pane of glass that was broken and replace it. I’m going to explain how to do it, then i’m going to tell you the things that can go wrong. After you have the window pane on the table with the surrounding frame removed, you will see a black rubber type substance around the edge where the spacer is applied. This is a butyl sealant, and you have to separate the broken glass from this butyl. The best way to do it is to take a utility knife with a new blade and break through the butyl where it meets the broken glass. Then, take a new hacksaw blade, and push it into the area where you sparated the butyl from the glass. You don’t want the hacksaw blade to be attached to a hacksaw. Using your hand, saw back and forth as you work your way around the edge of the glass. This should allow you to remove the glass. Once that’s done, lay rags on top of the good piece of glass to catch any debris, and scrape the surface of the spacer that will be contacting the new glass. Use a putty knife. Then, remove the rags and debris. When you are ready to put the new glass on, clean the inside of the good piece of glass that you didn’t remove. Remember, once you install the new glass, any debris or finger marks on the inside will be permanently sealed. So, clean it real good and check it from all angles. Do the same to the side of the new glass that will be going to the inside of the IGU. Then, run a thin bead of clear silicone around the entire perimeter of the spacer. Set your new glass on the spacer and use finger pressure to adhere the glass to the silicone all the way around.Then, come in from the side, and run silicone around the side where the glass and spacer meet. Cover the window opening with something for 24 hours. You do not want to touch the IGU for 24 hours. The silicone needs to cure. After 24 hours, you can assemble the unit and install it back into the opening.

There are a couple of things that can go wrong. The first one is leaving marks on the inside portion of the glass. Once you seal the glass, you cannot clean what’s between the panes. The other thing involves condensation between the panes. If you have even the slightest break in the silicone seal around the glass, chances are you will begin to see moisture form as soon as the nights get cold and the days get warm. You are going to have to decide if you are confident enough in your ability to do the job right, or if it’s better to pay the extra money to have it done for you. Just because you pay someone to do it, doesn’t mean you still won’t encounter the same problems. The difference is, they have to guarantee their IGU for a minimum of 1 year. I have received many units over the years that had marks in between the glass. The beauty of it is the manufacturer can’t dispute it, because there’s no way anyone else could have done it except them.

OK, what if the window frames are vinyl instead of aluminum? Well, the main difference is the glass in a vinyl window no longer has the rubber gasket around the edge. You don’t remove the opposite corner screws and separate the frame from the glass. What they do is put either silicone or a two sided tape on the lip of the frame where the glass rests. That’s what holds the glass in the frame, then they apply a snap in stop on all four sides of the glass. So, you have to remove the stops first, then turn over the panel and break the seal holding the glass to the frame using a utility knife. Wear gloves during this procedure. If only one side of the IGU is broken, don’t even think about repairing just the one side. You will never get that IGU out of the frame without breaking the other piece of glass in the process. But, on the positive side, you can remove the stops without taking the panel out if it’s a slider. You can then measure the dimensions of the glass, and order the new IGU. That way you eliminate any need to temporarily cover up your window. The same is true for the stationary portion of a slider, or a picture window. Before you install the new IGU, be sure and clean the lip that had the tape or silicone, and apply either silicone or tape. Either will work.

You will discover that replacing an IGU in an aluminum frame window is a whole lot easier than a vinyl window. But, in either case, you can do it yourself and save a few bucks.

What is Radon – Is It in Your Home

Home Inspection

What is Radon –  Is It in Your Home
Radon is a gas produced by the radioactive decay of the element radium. Radioactive decay is a natural, spontaneous process in which an atom of one element decays or breaks down to form another element by losing atomic particles (protons, neutrons or electrons). When solid radium decays to form radon gas, it loses two protons and two neutrons. These two protons and two neutrons are called an alpha particle, which is a type of radiation. The elements that produce radiation are referred to as radioactive. Radon itself is radioactive because it also decays, losing an alpha particle and forming the element polonium
Elements that are naturally radioactive include uranium, thorium, carbon and potassium, as well as radon and radium. Uranium is the first element in a long chain of decay that produces radium and radon. Uranium is referred to as the “parent” element, and radium and radon are called “daughters” or “progeny.” Radium and radon also form daughter elements as they decay. The progeny of radon are called radon decay products, or RDPs.

The decay of each radioactive element occurs at a very specific rate. How fast an element decays is measured in terms of the element’s “half-life,” or the amount of time for one-half of a given amount of the element to decay. Uranium has a half-life of 4.4 billion years, so a 4.4-billion-year-old rock has only half of the uranium with which it started. The half-life of radon is only 3.8 days.

If a jar were filled with radon, only half of the radon would be left after 3.8 days. But the newly-made daughter products of radon (or RDPs) would also be in the jar, including polonium, bismuth and lead. Polonium is also radioactive. It is this element which is produced by radon in the air and in people’s lungs that can hurt lung tissue and cause lung cancer.
Radioactivity is commonly measured in picocuries (pCi).

Because the level of radioactivity is directly related to the number and type of radioactive atoms present, radon and all other radioactive atoms are measured in picocuries. For instance, a house having 4 picocuries of radon per liter of air (4 pCi/L) has about eight or nine atoms of radon decaying every minute in every liter of air inside the house. A 1,000-square-foot house with 4 pCi/L of radon has nearly 2 million radon atoms decaying inside it every minute.

Radon levels in outdoor air, indoor air, soil air and groundwater can be very different. Outdoor air ranges from less than 0.1 pCi/L to about 30 pCi/L, but it probably averages about 0.2 pCi/L. Radon in indoor air ranges from less than 1 pCi/L to about 3,000 pCi/L, but it probably averages between 1 and 2 pCi/L. Radon in soil air (the air that occupies the pores in soil) ranges from 20 or 30 pCi/L to more than 100,000 pCi/L; most soils in the United States contain between 200 and 2,000 pCi of radon per liter of soil air. The amount of radon dissolved in groundwater ranges from about 100 to nearly 3 million pCi/L. Natural Radiation Exposure

Since the beginning of time, all living creatures have been exposed to radiation. We live in a radioactive world. There are many natural sources of radiation which have been present since the Earth was formed. In the last century, we have added somewhat to this natural background radiation with artificial sources. However, the naturally occurring sources contribute about four to five times more radiation than human-made sources.

The three major sources of naturally occurring radiation are:

• cosmic radiation;
• sources in the earth’s crust, also referred to as terrestrial radiation; and
• sources in the human body, also referred to as internal sources.

Cosmic

The Earth and all living things on it are constantly bombarded by radiation from space, similar to a steady drizzle of rain. Charged particles from the Sun and stars interact with Earth’s atmosphere and magnetic field to produce a shower of radiation, typically beta and gamma radiation. The dose from cosmic radiation varies in different parts of the world due to differences in elevation and to the effects of the Earth’s magnetic field. Cosmic radiation comes from the Sun and outer space, and consists of positively charged particles, as well as gamma radiation. At sea level, the average cosmic radiation dose is about 26 millirems (mrem) per year. At higher elevations, the amount of atmosphere shielding cosmic rays decreases and, thus, the dose increases. The average dose in the United States is approximately 28 mrem per year.

Terrestrial

Radioactive material is also found throughout nature. It is in the soil, water and vegetation. Low levels of uranium, thorium and their decay products are found everywhere. This is called terrestrial radiation. Some of these materials are ingested with food and water, while others, such as radon, are inhaled. The dose from terrestrial sources also varies in different parts of the world. Locations with higher concentrations of uranium and thorium in their soil have higher dose levels.

The major isotopes of concern for terrestrial radiation are uranium and its decay products, such as thorium, radium and radon.

There are natural sources of radiation in the ground, rocks, building materials and potable water supplies. Radon gas is a current health concern. This gas results from the decay of natural uranium in soil. Radon, which emits alpha radiation, rises from the soil under houses and can build up in homes, particularly well-insulated homes. In the United States, the average effective whole-body dose of radon is about 200 mrem per year, while the lungs receive approximately 2,000 mrem per year.

Internal

In addition to cosmic and terrestrial sources, all humans are born with naturally occurring radionuclides, such as Potassium-40, Carbon-14, Lead-210, and other isotopes. The variation in dose from one person to another is not as great as the variation in dose from cosmic and terrestrial sources. The average annual “dose” from internal radioactive material is about 40 mrem.

Ionizing Radiation Exposure to the Public

This chart shows that of the total dose of about 360 millirems per year, natural sources of radiation account for about 82% of all public exposure, while man-made sources account for the remaining 18%.

Government of Canada Radon Guideline
Did you know?
The Canadian guideline for radon is 200 becquerels per cubic meter, If the radon level is found to be high, it can be fixed.
Health Canada collaborated with the Federal Provincial Territorial Radiation Protection Committee (FPTRPC) to review the health risk from exposure to radon. The risk assessment is based on new scientific information and was the subject of broad public consultation. Using the risk assessment and feedback obtained from the public consultation, the Government of Canada is updating its guideline for exposure to radon in indoor air. This updated guideline provides advice that is more broadly applicable and more protective than the previous FPTRPC guideline.
The Minister recommends that
• Remedial measures should be undertaken in a dwelling whenever the average annual radon concentration exceeds 200 Bq/m³ in the normal occupancy area.
• The higher the radon concentration, the sooner remedial measures should be undertaken.
• When remedial action is taken, the radon level should be reduced to a value as low as practicable.
• The construction of new dwellings should employ techniques that will minimize radon entry and will facilitate post-construction radon removal, should this subsequently prove necessary.
• In addition to residential homes, the term “dwelling” in this guideline also applies to public buildings with a high occupancy rate by members of the public such as schools, hospitals, long-term care residences, and correctional facilities. The following settings are excluded from this guideline:
o Uranium mines, which are regulated by the Canadian Nuclear Safety Commission;
o Other mines (e.g., fluorspar mines), which are regulated by provincial mining authorities; and
o Other workplaces which would be addressed by existing guidelines for naturally occurring radioactive materials (NORM). Details are given in theCanadian Guidelines for Management of Naturally Occurring Radioactive Materials (NORM) and a copy may be viewed or downloaded.
• The “normal occupancy area” refers to any part of the dwelling where a person is likely to spend several hours (greater than four) per day. This would include a finished basement with a family room, guest room, office or work shop. It would also include a basement apartment. It would exclude an unfinished basement, a crawl space, or any area that is normally closed off and accessed infrequently, e.g., a storage area, cold room, furnace room, or laundry room.
• The aim is to remediate and reduce the radon concentration to less than 200 Bq/m³. If the radon concentration is found to be greater than 600 Bq/m³, the remedial actions are recommended to be completed in less than a year; between 200 Bq/m³ and 600 Bq/m³, the remedial actions should be completed in less than two years.
• “As low as practicable” refers to what can be achieved with conventional radon reduction methods in a cost-effective manner. This is consistent with the ALARA (As Low As Reasonably Achievable) principle, whereby reasonable efforts are made to maintain radiation exposures as low as possible, with social and economic factors taken into consideration. In most situations, a final level less than 200 Bq/m³ will be readily achievable. In a small number of cases, it may happen that the application of all reasonable remediation techniques will still leave a residual radon level greater than 200 Bq/m³. It is not the intention of this guideline to recommend excessive or unreasonable remediation costs in order to achieve a marginal increase in benefit. Such situations should be evaluated on a case-by-case basis.
• This Government of Canada guideline is based on the guidance approved by the FPTRPC. The guideline is based upon current scientific understanding. It will be reviewed and updated as appropriate. Further information on the Federal Provincial Territorial Radiation Protection Committee is available.
Brought to you by the Barrie Home Inspector – Your Radon Specialist for Barrie, Alliston, Orillia, Midland, Penetang, Bradford, Newmarket and Aurora

Reversed Polarity – Home Inspection Findings

Home Inspection

Reversed Polarity – Home Inspection Findings.   Electrical Reversed Polarity Issues:

Everything works just fine, however my home inspector informed me that some of my electrical outlets have reversed polarity and should be rewired. Why is polarity an issue?

Polarity can be confusing. Within 120-volt household circuits, if the polarity is correct, the black wire is the hot wire and the white wire is neutral wire (grounded conductor). If the polarity is reversed the white wire is hot and the black wire becomes the neutral.

Some appliances have only two prongs and no ground (U-shaped) prong. Polarized appliances have a wide (neutral) blade and a narrow (hot) blade. This configuration fits with (grounded) receptacles with the same configuration. Problems occur when do-it-yourself homeowners forget that the brass screws on an outlet are for hot (black) wires and the silver screws are for the white(neutral) wires and the green screw is for the (ground) green wire

Polarity Matters:

With some appliances polarity doesn’t matter as with a clock for example. However with a lamp socket the electricity is intended to flow from the button on the bottom of the light bulb ( black hot wire) through the filament and back through the threaded collar (white neutral wire) to the neutral at the distribution panel box. If there is no bulb in the socket and the switch is on there is a greater chance of touching the threaded portion of the socket (or bulb) than the button on the bottom. If the polarity is reversed this threaded portion becomes the hot (live) side of the circuit and there is greater risk of electrical shock.

Polarity matters with appliances that have switches. When the appliance is plugged in the power should only go as far as the switch. If the polarity is reversed the power goes through the entire appliance and then back to the switch. If a loose wire in the appliance comes in contact with the outside case, the entire appliance becomes potentially “hot” electrically speaking and the risk of shock exists even though the appliance is not turned on.

For safety sake:

To keep yourself and family safe, if your home inspector indicates a reversed polarity situation have a qualified electrician check the wiring and make sure that this issue is resolved.

Radon–Characteristics

Home Inspection

Radon-222:

•    is a gas;
•    is odorless;
•    is tasteless;
•    is invisible;
•    mixes with air;
•    is chemically inert (or non-reactive);
•    is found everywhere;
•    decays by alpha-particle emission; and
•    has a half-life of 3.8 days.

Radon Decay Products, or RDPs:

•    are solids, called daughters or progeny;
•    are chemically active;
•    are electrically charged;
•    can attach to air particles and cling to surfaces;
•    have a ratio of progeny-to-radon gas ranging from 0.3 to 0.7 ER (equilibrium ratio),
averaging 0.5 ER;
•    are short-lived (from 0.2 milliseconds to 26.8 minutes);
•    include Polonium-218, 214 and 210, which are alpha-particle emitters, and
these alpha-particle emissions can cause physical cellular damage, such as lung cancer.

Risk Assessment Facts

•    The EPA’s indoor radon program promotes voluntary public actions to reduce the risks from indoor radon.   The EPA and the U.S. Surgeon General recommend that people perform a simple home test using kits which are now widely available in stores.  If high levels of radon are confirmed, it is recommended that those high levels be mitigated or reduced using straightforward techniques.
•    The EPA recently completed an updated assessment of their estimates of lung cancer risks from indoor radon, based on the NAS’s 1999 report on radon titled “The Biological Effects of Ionizing Radiation (BEIR) VI.” This report is the most comprehensive review of scientific data gathered on radon, and builds on and updates their previous findings. The NAS concluded that homeowners should still test and, if necessary, mitigate their exposure to elevated radon levels in their homes.
•    Radon is a naturally occurring radioactive gas that is colorless, odorless and tasteless.  It’s naturally produced from the radioactive decay of uranium that’s present in soil, rock and groundwater. It emits ionizing radiation during its radioactive decay, changing into several radioactive isotopes known as radon decay products or RDPs.
•    Radon gets into the indoor air primarily from soil under building structures.  Radon is a known human lung carcinogen and is the largest source of radiation exposure and risk to the general public.  Most inhaled radon is rapidly exhaled, but the inhaled decay products readily deposit in the lung tissue where they irradiate sensitive cells in the airways, increasing the risk of lung cancer.
•    The NAS BEIR VI Report confirmed the EPA’s long-held position that radon is the second leading cause of lung cancer, and a serious public health problem. The NAS estimates that radon causes about 20,000 lung cancer deaths each year. The report found that even very small exposures to radon can result in lung cancer.  They concluded that no evidence exists that shows a threshold of exposure below which radon levels are harmless. The report also found that many smokers exposed to radon face a substantially greater risk of getting lung cancer compared to those who have never smoked. This is because of the synergistic relationship between radon and cigarette smoking.

CMHC – Well and Septic Inspections

Plumbing

CMHC – Well and Septic Inspections.  Buying a House With a Well and Septic System

In rural areas, many homes do not have connections to municipal water and sewer lines. Homeowners rely upon privately owned or communal (shared) wells as their drinking water source, and individual septic systems to treat and discharge their wastewater. Homeowners must ensure that their well water is safe to drink, and that their well and septic systems are properly maintained. A malfunctioning well or septic system can pose a health risk to your family and neighbours, and can be expensive to repair or replace. It is therefore important to conduct a detailed inspection of both the well and septic systems prior to purchasing a home. This document will describe how well and septic systems function and how to inspect them.

Wells

When you are purchasing a home with a private water supply (a well), there are three key items to consider:

well system
water quantity
water quality

Well Systems

There are three common types of wells: dug, bored and drilled.

Dug and bored wells (60 – 120 cm/24 – 48 in. diameter) are commonly used to produce water from shallow surface aquifers (less than 15 m/50 ft. deep); and are prone to contamination from surface water infiltration and to water shortages (see Figure 1). An aquifer is an underground formation of permeable rock or loose material, which can produce useful quantities of water when tapped by a well. Another type of well used in surface aquifers is a sand point well (2.5 – 5 cm/1 – 2 in. diameter), which is a pointed well screen connected to a small diameter pipe driven into water-bearing sand or gravel.

Figure 1: Dug well

Drilled wells (10 – 20 cm/4 – 8 in. diameter) are commonly used to penetrate deeper aquifers (15 to greater than 60 m/50 to greater than 200 ft. deep), are more costly to construct, but generally provide a safer source of drinking water (see Figure 2).

Figure 2: Drilled well

Common features of well systems include:

Casing — structure around the well hole, which keeps it from collapsing. It could be a steel casing, concrete rings or an open hole in the bedrock.

Inlet — allows water to enter the well from the bottom. There might be a screen at the inlet to prevent fine particles from entering the well and a foot-valve (check valve) to maintain the system’s prime and pressure.

Pumping system — includes pump, piping and necessary electrical connections to pump water from the well into the house, and a pressure tank to maintain constant water pressure in the house. Submersible pumps are usually used in drilled wells, while shallow wells usually use centrifugal pumps, which are located out of the well, most likely in the basement or in a pump house.

Surface protection — prevents surface water and contaminants from entering the well. It includes a watertight seal placed around the casing (annular seal), a well cap 0.3 – 0.4 m (12 – 16 in.) above the ground, and mounded earth around the top of the well casing to divert rainwater.

Well Inspection Checklist

The well should be inspected before the house is purchased. If there is a problem with the physical state of the well (for example, cracked seals, settled casing) contact a licensed well contractor to correct the problem. Check the Yellow Pages™ under “Water Well Drilling and Service” to find a local licensed well contractor.

Well record — Obtain a copy of the well record from the owner or the Ministry of the Environment. This should include: location of well, date of well drilling, depth and diameter of well, static water level, pumping water level, recommended pumping rate and the recommended pump setting.
Location — A well should be located at least 15 m (50 ft.) from any source of contamination if the casing is watertight to a depth of 6 m (20 ft.); otherwise, the separation distance should be at least 30 m (100 ft.). Sources of contamination include: septic systems, manure storages, fuel storages, agricultural fields (manure or fertilizer runoff), and roads (salt runoff). Wells should be located at least 15 m (50 ft.) from a body of water (see Figure 3).
Well cap — The cap should be at least 0.3 m (12 in.) above the ground. The well cap and seal should be securely in place and watertight. A locking cap would give some added security against tampering. Well caps are on drilled wells and well covers are on dug wells. Both types should be inspected.
Well casing — No cracks or settling of the casing should be visible. The ground should slope away from the casing.
Drainage — Surface water should drain away from the well and water should not pond around the well casing.
Well pump — The well pump and distribution piping should be in good condition.
Grass buffer — A permanent grass buffer of a minimum 4 m (12 ft.) width should be maintained around the well head. Fertilizers and pesticides should not be applied to the grass buffer.
Abandoned wells — All abandoned wells on a property must be decommissioned (plugged) by a licensed well contractor. Ask the owner if there are any abandoned wells on the property and if they have been properly decommissioned.
Inside the house — Check for sand or grit in the faucet strainer which indicates a corroded well screen. Verify that the pressure tank reads between 250 to 400 kPa (40 and 60 psi). Ensure that the check valve (or foot valve) is able to sustain the system pressure by drawing no water for 30 minutes to an hour and monitoring the pressure. The pressure should not drop nor should the pump start up during this dormant period.

Figure 3: Well separation distances

Water Quantity

Wells draw water from aquifers, which are zones of saturated permeable soil or rock. Some types of soil make for good aquifers, such as gravel and fractured bedrock that can support high water pumping rates, while other types of soil make for poor aquifers, such as silty sand and clay that cannot support high water pumping rates.

Wells can run dry for the following reasons:

The pumping rate is higher than the groundwater recharge rate.
The water table (level of saturated water in the soil) has dropped to below the pump suction or inlet.
The well screen has become plugged by fine sand, chemical precipitation, bacterial fouling or corrosion.
If a well vent becomes blocked, a negative pressure may occur (in the well) during draw down and reduce or stop the pump from drawing water.
If there is a water supply problem, a licensed well contractor should be consulted. Solutions may include: water conservation in the home, digging a deeper well, unplugging a fouled well screen or replacing a corroded well casing or screen. The cost of fixing the problem should be considered when negotiating the sale price for the home.

There are three sources of information to help determine if a well can produce a sufficient quantity of water:

local knowledge
well record
water recovery test

Local Knowledge

The best indication of whether there is sufficient water supply is to ask the owner, neighbours or local well drillers if there have been any problems with wells running dry on the property and in the area. Generally, shallow wells are more likely to have problems with water shortages than deep wells, as shallow wells draw water from surface aquifers, which can fluctuate greatly depending upon the amount of precipitation.

Well Record

Obtain a copy of the well record from the previous owner or the Ministry of the Environment. The pumping water level indicates if the well is shallow or deep (less than 15 m/50 ft. is considered a shallow well). The recommended pumping rate should be greater than 14 L/min (3.6 US gal/min).

Water Recovery Test

A licensed contractor can be hired to conduct a recovery test which involves pumping water out of a well and then giving it time to recharge. This can help you determine how much water you can draw from the well. A well should be able to pump 14 L/min (3.6 US gal/min) for 120 minutes or 450 L/person/day (119 US gal/person/day). Source: MOE, Procedure D-5-5, 1996.

Water Quantity Checklist

Ask the owner, neighbours or a local well contractor if there have been any problems with the well or area wells running dry.
Verify the depth of the well and pumping rate from the well record. A surface well is more likely to run dry in times of drought.
Have a licensed well contractor conduct a recovery test, if necessary.
Water Quality

The quality of the well water is very important. Poor water quality can lead to health problems, unpleasant taste and odour, costly treatment systems and/or the costly use of bottled water. Well water can be contaminated with bacteria and chemicals. Common sources of contamination include: infiltration from septic systems, manure runoff, pet waste, road chemicals as well as dissolved chemicals naturally present in the groundwater such as calcium, sulphur, chloride or iron.

Water Sampling

Your offer of purchase should always include a requirement that closing is conditional upon an acceptable water quality evaluation. It would be ideal to take three water samples, about a week apart, with one of the samples taken after a rainstorm when surface water contamination is most likely. If possible, take the water samples yourself. The three samples should be analyzed for: total coliform, E. coli, and nitrate while one of the samples should also be analyzed for: sodium, hardness, sulphate, chloride, lead, iron, manganese and pH. Ask the laboratory to indicate the drinking water standards along with the results. Additional analyses can be conducted including: metals scan, pesticides if the well is in an agricultural area with heavy pesticide use, or gasoline and solvents if the well is near a gas station or industrial area.

Contact your local public health office for instructions on where to obtain appropriate sterile sampling bottles and where to submit water samples for testing. Bacteria and nitrate are analyzed free of charge in some provinces through local public health or Ministry of Environment offices, while the additional parameters will have to be analyzed at a private analytical laboratory for a fee.

If possible, samples should be taken from a tap between the well pump and any water treatment units and/or pressure tank. Follow the directions on the sample submission form for proper water sampling procedures.

Test Results — What Do They Mean?

If concentrations are higher than the limits described below, consult a water treatment systems supplier to determine if a water treatment technology is appropriate. It is preferable to get several quotations.

Health Indicators

Escherichia coli (E. coli) or Faecal Coliform

These bacteria are found only in the digestive systems of humans and animals. Their presence in your well water is usually the result of contamination by manure or human sewage from a nearby source such as a septic system or agricultural fields. Drinking water contaminated with E. coli or faecal coliform causes stomach cramps and/or diarrhoea as well as other problems and can even cause death. The drinking water standard for both E. coli and faecal coliform is 0 counts/100 ml. A value of 1 or more indicates that the water is unsafe to drink.

Total Coliform

This group of bacteria is always present in manure and sewage, but is also found naturally in soil and on vegetation. The presence of these bacteria in your well water may indicate that surface water is getting into your well. A total coliform value of 1 – 5 suggests that the safety of the water is doubtful, while a value of greater than 5 indicates that the water is unsafe to drink.

Nitrate

The presence of nitrate in your well water is usually the result of residential yard or agricultural fertilizers, or seepage from septic systems. Infants less than six months old can become sick from drinking formula made with water high in nitrate (greater than 10 mg/L). If you have an infant less than six months old, it is recommended to use bottled water.

Sodium/Potassium Chloride

Individuals who are on a sodium- (salt) reduced diet should consult with their physician if the level of sodium in their well water exceeds 20 mg/L. Domestic water softeners typically use sodium chloride and this increases the level of sodium in the drinking water. Potassium chloride is an alternative to sodium chloride for softening water. However, individuals suffering from hypertension, kidney disease or congestive heart failure should consult their physician prior to using drinking water containing high levels of sodium or potassium. A separate, unsoftened water supply (by-passing the water softener) can be installed for drinking and cooking purposes if sodium or potassium is a health concern.

Sulphate

At concentrations above 500 mg/L, sulphate can have a laxative effect and give a bitter taste to the water.

Lead

Lead concentrations in water are likely due to lead piping. Concentrations as low as 0.01 mg/L could cause long-term health problems.

Aesthetic Indicators

Hardness

Hardness is a measure of calcium and magnesium in water. These elements precipitate with carbonate in boilers and pots to form scale. Hardness also makes it difficult to form lather, requires more soap, and creates a soap scum. Many homeowners decide to purchase a water softener, which replaces calcium and magnesium ions with sodium or potassium ions. Hardness (as calcium carbonate) above 80 mg/L could require a water softener.

Chloride

Chloride concentrations above 250 mg/L can give a salty taste to the water and may corrode piping.

Iron and Manganese

Well water with iron concentrations above 0.3 mg/L and manganese concentrations above 0.05 mg/L could stain plumbing fixtures and clothing; water may appear rust coloured or have black specks in it; can also cause a foul taste in the water and bacterial fouling of the well screen.

pH

pH values of less than 6.5 or greater than 8.5 may cause corrosion of piping.

Water Quality Checklist

Water sampled on three different dates — preferably a week apart — from a tap between the well pump and any water treatment units and/or pressure tank for: total coliform, E. coli and nitrate.
Water sampled once for: sodium, hardness, sulphate, chloride, lead, iron, manganese and pH.
Obtain copies of previous water quality test results from the homeowner. Ask if there have been any water quality problems: frequent stomach illness (bacteria), odours (hydrogen sulphide, methane), rust spots (iron), scale (hardness), slime growth in faucets (iron or manganese), salty taste (chloride), bitter taste (sulphate).
Review with the owner the operation and reason for any water treatment systems (water softener, disinfection system, reverse osmosis system, chlorination unit, etc.). Ask to see all treatment device operating manuals.
Sample a glass of water for taste (salty, bitter), odours (hydrogen sulphide, methane), cloudiness (small particles) and colour (a rusty colour can indicate a high iron content). Remember you will be drinking this water every day.
Look for scale on fixtures or around the faucets indicating hard water. Lift the lid and inspect the back of the toilet tank (the cistern) for sand, sediment, rust particles, scaling, biological growth and any other visual clues which may indicate water problems.
Is there a “rotten egg” smell from the hot water heater? This indicates hydrogen sulphide gas, which can corrode piping.
Drilling a New Well

The cost of a new well depends on the depth of the well and the local market. For drilling and casing, well contractors usually charge a fixed rate per meter (or foot) of depth, whereas grout, seal, cap and screen installation is usually charged at a fixed rate per well.

Septic Systems

The septic system accepts wastewater from the home (sinks, showers, toilets, dishwasher, washing machine), treats the wastewater and returns the treated effluent to the groundwater. A conventional septic system is comprised of two components: a septic tank and a leaching bed.

Septic Tank

A septic tank is a buried, watertight container, which accepts wastewater from your house (see Figure 4). Septic tanks can be made from concrete, polyethylene or fibreglass and in the past were sometimes made from steel (if the property has a steel tank, it is likely rusted through and needs replacing). Older tanks may be smaller than those found today (the minimum current size in Ontario is 3,600 L (952 US gal). Current tanks have two compartments, while older tanks may only have one compartment. Solids settle to the bottom of the tank to form a sludge layer, and oil and grease float to the top to form a scum layer. The tank should be pumped out every three to five years or when 1/3 of the tank volume is filled with solids (measured by a service provider such as a pumper). Some municipalities require that septic tanks be pumped out more frequently. Bacteria, which are naturally present in the tank, work to break down the sewage over time.

Figure 4: Common septic tank

Leaching Bed

The wastewater exits the septic tank into the leaching bed — a system of perforated pipes in gravel trenches on a bed of unsaturated soil (minimum 0.9 m/3 ft. — see Figure 5). The wastewater percolates through the soil where microbes in the soil remove additional harmful bacteria, viruses and nutrients before returning the treated effluent to the groundwater. In cases where there is more than 0.9 m (3 ft.) of unsaturated soil from the high water table or bedrock, a conventional system is used, where the network of perforated drainage piping is installed either directly in the native soil, or in imported sand if the native soil is not appropriate for treatment. In cases where the groundwater or bedrock is close to the surface, the leaching bed must be raised 0.9 m (3 ft.) above the high water table or bedrock. This is called a raised bed system.

Credit: Eric Brunet, Ontario Rural Wastewater Centre, University of Guelph
Figure 5: Septic system

Alternative Systems

Under certain site conditions such as limited lot area, high groundwater table or poor soil conditions (clay or bedrock for example), a conventional system will not provide sufficient treatment of the wastewater. Under these conditions, it is often possible to install an alternative treatment unit. The two most common types of alternative treatment units are trickling filters, where the effluent from the septic tank trickles through an unsaturated filter media (such as peat or a textile filter), and aeration systems, where the effluent from the septic tank passes through an aerated tank.

Alternative treatment units provide a higher level of wastewater treatment, allowing the effluent to be discharged to a smaller area than in a conventional leaching bed. Effluent from an alternative treatment unit can also be discharged to a shallow buried trench, which is a pressurized pipe system 15 cm (6 in.) below the ground surface. In most provinces homeowners with alternative treatment units are required to have a maintenance contract with a service provider to inspect and maintain their systems.

Inspecting the Septic System

You should have the septic system inspected by a certified on-site system professional (such as a certified installer or engineer) prior to purchasing the home. Call your local municipal office, public health office or Ministry of Environment office for a list of qualified professionals.

The inspection should include: a discussion with the homeowner, a review of the system permit, a tank inspection, a leaching bed inspection and a house inspection.

System Replacement or Repair

A septic system should last anywhere from 20 – 25 years, or even longer, if it is properly installed and maintained with regular pump-outs every three to five years.

Questions to ask the homeowner:

Do you have a copy of the septic system permit?
When was the last time the septic tank was pumped out? Are there records of system maintenance (tank pump-outs, system repair)?
Have there been any problems with the septic system: system backing up, foul odours, effluent on the surface, soggy ground in the leaching bed, system freezing, toilet and drains gurgling or draining slowly?
Have there been any potable water quality problems (E. coli, faecal coliform, nitrate)? This could be due to infiltration of the well by leakage from the septic system and could indicate a malfunctioning system. Results from the water quality samples that you take of the well water may help indicate septic system problems.
Permit Review Checklist

The septic system permit can be obtained from the homeowner or the local municipal, Ministry of Environment or public health office, depending on the jurisdiction. There may not be a permit for older systems.

Review the system permit: age, size and type of system and separation distances (particularly from wells).
Verify the size of the system with respect to the size of the house.
Tank Inspection Checklist

Never enter or stick your head into a septic tank. Dangerous gases are present in septic tanks, which can be lethal, even after the tank has been pumped out.

Compare the size of the tank and the expected water use, observe the general condition of the tank: baffles, partition wall, look for cracks and leaks. A steel tank is likely corroded and in need of replacement.
Observe the water levels in the tank (too high suggests a clogged leaching bed while too low suggests a leaking tank).
Have the septic tank pumped out (the owner should pay).
Observe connections to the house and to the leaching bed (leaking pipes, crushed pipes), look for direct discharge of surface drainage into the tank. Tire tracks on the leaching bed could indicate crushed pipes.
Clean the effluent filter (if one exists) by rinsing with an outdoor hose, allowing the rinse water to drain into the septic tank.
Leaching Bed Inspection

Check for effluent on the surface, odours, lush growth, soggy field/ saturated soil.
Check for obstructions to the leaching bed (pavement over bed, trees in bed).
Verify that surface drainage is directed away from the leaching bed (for example, downspouts are not saturating the leaching bed).
Dig test pits in the tile lines for signs of ponding water and biomat (slime) growth. This indicates plugged tile lines, which may require repair or eventual replacement.
Inspect all mechanical equipment (pumps, aerators, alarms) to ensure they are in good working order.
Indoor Inspection Checklist

Check for leaking faucets and run-on toilets (a run-on toilet can flood the septic system). Slow moving drains and sewer-gas smells from flowing drains can indicate a failing system.
Verify the plumbing (storm water and sump pump to ditch or dry well, toilet and sinks to septic system). If there is a direct grey water discharge (sinks and bathtub are not going to the septic system), it likely does not meet building code or health department standards. Connecting the grey water to the septic system may require the installation of a larger septic system.
Water softener discharge: USEPA reports suggest that it is appropriate to discharge water softener backwash to a septic system. However, many jurisdictions encourage the discharge of the water softener’s backwash to a sump pump, ditch or dry well.
Under exceptional circumstances, the home may have a holding tank as opposed to a septic system. A holding tank must be pumped regularly (every few weeks) which can add a considerable expense to the household.
Inspect the sewer vent stack for damage or blockage. Simply removing an old bird’s nest might eliminate sewer-gas problems.
Where Can I Get More Information?

local municipal offices or public health offices
licensed septic system installers and well drillers (check the Yellow Pages™)
provincial ministries of the environment

Septic Tank Inspection

Plumbing

Septic Tank Inspection. Because the septic tank and drainfield at a property are buried, thus hidden from view, because these components are expensive to replace, and because a costly problem can be present but not obvious, it is important to understand the septic system and to inspect and test it when buying a property served by its own private septic tank.
Septic systems include buried septic tanks (sewage tanks) and drainfields – expensive and hidden from view such as in the photo at left. This document provides advice for home buyers who are buying a home with a private septic system: homes using a septic tank and drainfield or similar soil absorption system.
Other chapters of this guide explain what goes wrong with septic systems, 5-recommends and describes septic inspection and test methods in more detail, explains how to be sure your septic inspection and septic test are conducted properly, tells you where to get more septic system information about a given property, and warns of unsanitary or dangerous site conditions.
If you need to know how to install a septic system, or if you find that you have a sewage pit (cesspool) this website provides articles explaining those topics too.

Home buyers ask us these questions about septic systems:

• What is a Septic Tank?
• What is a Leach Field?
• How does a septic system work?
• What does the existing septic system consist of at my new home?
• Do I have a Cesspool or Drywell?
• How do I know if the septic system is working properly?
• What septic inspections and tests should I have performed when I am buying a home?
• How long will a septic system last?
• Is septic system maintenance necessary?
To help buyers obtain the necessary information to address these questions, we have put together this document to guide them in making informed decisions regarding the potential problems and costs associated with a property’s septic system.
2-YOU NEED TO KNOW AND DO: How Septic Systems Work. Here is the minimum you need to know and what you need to do (or have done) when buying a property with a septic system
Our sketch below shows the second major portion of a septic system: the effluent disposal or drainfield or soakaway bed that disposes of clarified effluent liquid waste that leaves the septic tank.
So how does a septic system work? A private onsite septic system means that the waste from your building drains (sinks, showers, toilets) goes into a septic tank which retains the solids and lets the effluent flow into the soils on the property.
Properly designed and installed these systems are functional and sanitary. Private septic systems serve more homes in the U.S. and many other countries than any other waste disposal method. But the components are costly and do not have an indefinite life.
Because of the potential repair/replacement costs involved, and because the system is buried and cannot be exhaustively inspected and tested, you want to do what you can to evaluate the condition of the septic system before you complete the purchase of the property.
Here’s what to do: If you are buying a home with a septic tank and drain field, here’s what you need to do, as succinctly as possible. Each of these steps is described in more detail below, and in even more detail in linked-to documents.

Steps 1 and 2 are essential. Step 3 is usually a good idea. Step 4 depends on the results of steps 1,2,3 but is usually a good idea. Step 5 is not usually done but might be necessary. Step 6 is what you do if you’re being really thorough.

Synonyms for “septic system” used by the general public include septic waste system, sewage systems, and water sewage systems, even Roman sewage systems. All of these refer to onsite systems which hold and separate sewage waste from its liquid effluent which is treated further and then disposed-of by any of a variety of means which we will discuss. At this site we also discuss special considerations for handling septic waste such as garbage disposal septic tank waste volume and what to do about it. Perform these steps in the order we list them. (For example, don’t pump the tank before a loading and dye test.)

1. Ask About the Septic System – where is it, what’s installed, what’s the service and repair history
2. Make a Visual Site Inspection for signs of trouble. If you can find the tank, for safety, be sure that there is no evidence of collapse or subsidence on the property, and be sure that the septic tank (or cesspool, or drywell) has a safe cover so that no one can fall into the tank. See SEPTIC TANK COVERS for details.
3. Perform a Septic Loading & Dye Test to see if it produces evidence of a failure. Hire a home inspector who knows how to perform and will include this test.
4. Pump the Septic Tank and inspect for additional clues, depending on what you learned at 1,2,3.
5. Additional Septic System Physical Investigation might be needed
6. Get Outside Information Sources about Septic Systems if you’re being really thorough
7. Neighboring Septic System Problems – advice for dealing with a neighboring septic system producing odors or seepage

Seasonal Home Maintenance Schedule

Personal Interest

Seasonal Home Maintenance

Make sure air vents indoors and outdoors (intake, exhaust and forced air) are not blocked by snow or debris.

Check and clean range hood filters on a monthly basis.

Test ground fault circuit interrupter(s) on electrical outlets monthly by pushing the test button, which should then cause the reset button to pop up.

If there are young children in the house, make sure electrical outlets are equipped with safety plugs.

Regularly check the house for safety hazards, such as a loose handrail, lifting or buckling flooring, inoperative smoke detectors, and so on.

Fall

Have furnace or heating system serviced by a qualified service company every two years for a gas furnace, and every year for an oil furnace, or as recommended by the manufacturer.

If you have central air conditioning, make sure the drain pan under the cooling coil mounted in the furnace plenum is draining properly and is clean.

Lubricate circulating pump on hot water heating system.

Bleed air from hot <a href=”http://www.napoleon.cc/cottage/”target=”_blank”rel=”external”title=”Midland Cottage Inspections” >water radiators.

Disconnect the power to the furnace and examine the forced-air furnace fan belt, if installed, for wear, looseness or noise; clean fan blades of any dirt buildup.

Check chimneys for obstructions such as nests.

Vacuum electric baseboard heaters to remove dust.

Remove the grilles on forced-air systems and vacuum inside the ducts.

Turn ON gas furnace pilot light (if your furnace has one), set the thermostat to “heat” and test the furnace for proper operation by raising the thermostat setting until the furnace starts to operate. Once you have confirmed proper operation, return the thermostat to the desired setting.

Check and clean or replace furnace air filters each month during the heating season. Ventilation system, such as heat recovery ventilator, filters should be checked every two months.

Check to see that the ductwork leading to and from the heat recovery ventilator is in good shape, the joints are tightly sealed (aluminum tape or mastic) and any duct insulation and plastic duct wrap is free of tears and holes.

If the heat recovery ventilator has been shut off for the summer, clean the filters and the core, and pour water down the condensate drain to test it.

Check to see that bathroom exhaust fans and range hoods are operating properly. If possible, confirm that you are getting good airflow by observing the outside vent hood (the exterior damper should be held open by the airflow).

Check smoke, carbon monoxide and security alarms, and replace batteries.

Clean portable humidifier, if one is used.

Check sump pump and line to ensure proper operation, and to ascertain that there are no line obstructions or visible leaks.

Replace window screens with storm windows.

Remove interior insect screens from windows to allow air from the heating system to keep condensation off window glass and to allow more free solar energy into your home.

Ensure windows and skylights close tightly; repair or replace weatherstripping, as needed.

Ensure all doors to the outside shut tightly, and check other doors for ease of use. Replace door weatherstripping if required.

If there is a door between your house and the garage, check the adjustment of the self-closing device to ensure it closes the door completely.

Cover outside of air-conditioning units and shut off power.

Ensure that the ground around your home slopes away from the foundation wall, so that water does not drain into your basement.

Clean leaves from eaves troughs and roof, and test downspouts to ensure proper drainage from the roof.

Drain and store outdoor hoses. Close interior valve to outdoor hose connection and drain the hose bib (exterior faucet), unless your house has frost-proof hose bibs.

Have well water tested for quality. It is recommended that you test for bacteria every six months.

If you have a septic tank, measure the sludge and scum to determine if the tank needs to be emptied before the spring. Tanks should be pumped out at least once every three years.

Winterize landscaping, for example, store outdoor furniture, prepare gardens and, if necessary, protect young trees or bushes for winter.

Winter

Check and clean or replace furnace air filters each month during the heating season. Ventilation system, such as heat recovery ventilator, filters should be checked every two months.

After consulting your hot water tank owner’s manual, drain off a dishpan full of water from the clean-out valve at the bottom of your hot water tank to control sediment and maintain efficiency.

Clean humidifier two or three times during the winter season.

Vacuum bathroom fan grille.

Vacuum fire and smoke detectors, as dust or spider webs can prevent them from functioning.

Vacuum radiator grilles on back of refrigerators and freezers, and empty and clean drip trays.

Check pressure gauge on all fire extinguishers; recharge or replace if necessary.

Check fire escape routes, door and window locks and hardware, and lighting around outside of house; ensure family has good security habits.

Check the basement floor drain to ensure the trap contains water; refill with water if necessary.

Monitor your home for excessive moisture levels — for example, condensation on your windows, which can cause significant damage over time and pose serious health problems — and take corrective action if necessary. Mould may become an issue if you have excessive humidity in your home.

Check all faucets for signs of dripping and change washers as needed. Faucets requiring frequent replacement of washers may be in need of repair.

If you have a plumbing fixture that is not used frequently, such as a laundry tub or spare bathroom sink, tub or shower stall, run some water briefly to keep water in the trap.

Clean drains in dishwasher, sinks, bathtubs and shower stalls.

Test plumbing shut-off valves to ensure they are working and to prevent them from seizing.

Examine windows and doors for ice accumulation or cold air leaks. If found, make a note to repair or replace in the spring.

Examine attic for frost accumulation. Check roof for ice dams or icicles. If there is excessive frost or staining of the underside of the roof, or ice dams on the roof surface. Call in a qualified home inspector or roofing consultant if you suspect you have ice damming problem.

Keep snow clear of gas meters, gas appliance vents, exhaust vents and basement windows.

Monitor outdoor vents, gas meters and chimneys for ice and snow buildup. Consult with an appropriate contractor or your gas utility for information on how to safely deal with any ice problems you may discover.

Check electrical cords, plugs and outlets for all indoor and outdoor seasonal lights to ensure fire safety; if worn, or if plugs or cords feel warm to the touch, replace immediately. Do not use extension cords as permanent wiring as they are not designed for this purpose.

Spring

After consulting your hot water tank owner’s manual, carefully test the temperature and pressure relief valve to ensure it is not stuck. Caution: This test may release hot water that can cause burns.

Check and clean or replace furnace air filters each month during the heating season. Ventilation system, such as heat recovery ventilator, filters should be checked every two months. Recommend using a pleated filter with metal strips for electrostatic dust collection as the minimum type of filter to install. If using a washable filter ensure it does not restrict air for furnace which can cause early failure of fan unit.

Have fireplace or wood stove and chimney cleaned and serviced as needed.

Shut down, drain and clean furnace humidifier, and close the furnace humidifier damper on units with central air conditioning. Remove and clean filter. Empty water tray to prevent algae etc from forming.

Switch on power to air conditioning and check system. Have it serviced every two or three years.

Clean or replace air-conditioning filter, if applicable.

Check dehumidifier and drain — clean if necessary.

Turn OFF gas furnace and fireplace pilot lights where possible.

Have well water tested for quality. It is recommended that you test for bacteria every six months. Bypass any filters before performing tests.

Check smoke, carbon monoxide and security alarms, and replace batteries. Every level of homes in Ontario require a working smoke detector.

Clean windows, screens and hardware, and replace storm windows with screens. Check screens first and repair or replace if needed.

Open valve to outside hose connection after all danger of frost has passed.

Examine the foundation walls for cracks, leaks or signs of moisture, and repair as required. Silcone caulking is ideal for minor cracks. If there are any major cracks, foam or epoxy injection may be required.

Ensure sump pump is operating properly before the spring thaw sets in. Ensure discharge pipe is connected and allows water to drain away from the foundation.

Re-level any exterior steps or decks that moved as a result of frost or settling. Ensure all steps are the same height and remove any trip hazards by re-leveling patio stones.

Check for and seal off any holes in exterior cladding that could be an entry point for small pests, such as bats and squirrels. Foam or caulking is a good filler.

Check eavestroughs and downspouts for loose joints and secure attachment to your home, clear any obstructions, and ensure water flows away from your foundation. Using splash pads can help ensure all water is drained away from homes. Most basement water problems come from improper grade or water drainage from downspouts.

Clear all drainage ditches and culverts of debris.

Repair and paint fences as necessary — allow wood fences to dry adequately before tackling this task.

Undertake spring landscape maintenance and, if necessary, fertilize young trees.

Summer

Monitor basement humidity and avoid relative humidity levels above 60 per cent. Use a dehumidifier to maintain relative humidity below 60 per cent.

Clean or replace air-conditioning filter, and clean or replace ventilation system filters if necessary. Remember most a/c technicians now recommend that you do not completely cover your unit for the winter. This traps in condensation and can actually damage unit.

Check basement pipes for condensation or dripping and, if necessary, take corrective action; for example, reduce humidity and/or insulate cold water pipes.

Check the basement floor drain to ensure the trap contains water; refill with water if necessary. Newer homes have fill line from laundry and typically condensate lines from furnace or a/c unit will ensure enough water is kept in trap.

If you have a plumbing fixture that is not used frequently, for example, a laundry tub or spare bathroom sink, tub or shower stall, run some water briefly to keep water in the trap.

Deep clean carpets and rugs.

Vacuum bathroom fan grille.

Disconnect the duct connected to your clothes dryer, and vacuum lint from duct, the areas surrounding your dryer and your dryer’s vent hood outside. Don’t forget to check and clean the outside grill and duct.

Check security of all guardrails and handrails.

Check smooth functioning of all windows, and lubricate as required. Check for damaged thermal seals which will allow moisture between panes of glass. Recommend replacing thermal unit rather than drilling holes to allow moisture out which costs up to 40% of cost of replacing window. You still end up with damaged window and can affect your resale value because any competent home inspector will note the holes drilled in glass.

Inspect window sills for any signs of cracking mortar on sills or bricks. This can allow water to enter behind brick and can do some serious damage to brick below, if not monitored brick spalling may occur.

Sand and touch up paint on windows and doors. Check all caulking.

Lubricate door hinges, and tighten screws as needed.

Check for and replace damaged caulking and weather stripping around mechanical and electrical services, windows and doorways, including the doorway between the garage and the house. Although an automatic door closure is required for your Occupancy Permit there is no “legal requirement” for you to maintain a closure.

Lubricate garage door hardware, and ensure it is operating properly. White lithium type grease is best for this project.

Lubricate automatic garage door opener motor, chain and other moving parts, and ensure that the auto-reverse mechanism is properly adjusted. Use grease or oil as recommended by manufacturer for best results. Operating instructions can usually be found online if orginal is lost or mis-placed.

Inspect electrical service lines for secure attachment where they enter your house, and make sure there is no water leakage into the house along the electrical conduit. Check for overhanging tree branches that may need to be removed. Tree branches are typically looked after by Municipality or City and a phone call is all that is required.

Check exterior wood siding and trim for signs of deterioration; clean, replace or refinish as needed. Check for any cracked or missing caulking. Re-align any siding with gaps.

Remove any plants that contact — and roots that penetrate — the siding or brick. The building code requires 8 inches of clearance from grade. Moisture will cause brick surfaces to spall if soil or snow is allowed to build up against brick surface. Treating with water proofing will help prevent this if grade cannot be changed.

From the ground, check the general condition of the roof and note any sagging that could indicate structural problems requiring further investigation from inside the attic. Note the condition of shingles for possible repair or replacement, and examine roof flashings, such as at chimney and roof joints, for any signs of cracking or leakage.

Check the chimney cap and the caulking between the cap and the chimney. Recommend having Home Inspector or Mason inspect your roof and chimney areas.

Repair driveway and walkways as needed. Sealing the crack between asphalt driveway and garage floor is a very important preventive maintenance project and will prevent driveway from sagging in future.

Repair any damaged steps. Use cement epoxy type products to ensure proper seal.

Remember an “Ounce of Prevention is Worth a Pound of Cure”

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Repairing Rotting Wood Tips and Techniques

Exterior

Causes of Rotting Wood

Whenever wood has more than 20% moisture exposure it has the potential to deteriorate. It’s very important to keep up on caulking and painting with quality materials to prevent wood rot.

If you are at the point where you already have wood rot we recommend you do not use pine for rot replacement. Pine available on the market today tends to be new growth pine. Pine available today is not as dense as older growth pine and will rot in a very short period of time. So many home owners are so disappointed to find their new homes have extensive wood rot damage within the first five years.
window rot by Barrie Home Inspector

Painting and caulking are two of the home owners best materials that will help prevent wood rot. Caulking is one of the best defenses your home has against moisture. Home owners should be vigilante for the appearance of peeling or cracking paint and cracked or missing caulking. Either of these are indicators that your wood is now being attacked by moisture. As a home inspector I am always reminding my clients of the old but true adage that ” an ounce of prevention is better than a pound of cure.”


Repairing Areas of Wood Rot

Using a wood chisel, an electric drill with a spade bit, or another tool appropriate for the location to remove all of the wet, loose and decayed wood.
Probe the surrounding area with an awl. If it feels as solid as unaffected areas, drill numerous closely spaced holes of 1/8-inch (3-mm) diameter in the wood and inject a liquid wood hardener following the manufactures directions.

Mix two-part epoxy or polyester wood filler as directed. Mix only what you can apply and shape in a few minutes. Once the material hardens it is un-workable and must be thrown away.

Fill the hole or build up the affected area with the wood filler, using a putty knife or flexible plastic spreader. Press hard on knife to work the initial layer into the surface for a good bond.

Clean off the applicator and mixing container immediately

Use a rasp tool to roughly shape or level excess filler as soon as the filler sets up, but before it dries completely.
Use medium or coarse sandpaper to further shape and blend the patch when the filler is completely dry. On flat surfaces, use a rubber sanding block or power sander. On contoured surfaces, use wood dowels or other appropriate shapes to back the sandpaper.

Blow off the dust and apply freshly mixed filler to fill any remaining depressions or pinholes, or to build up more material as needed to attain the desired shape.

Use medium, then fine sandpaper to smooth the patch and feather it into the surrounding wood.

After completely dry prime and paint to suit.

Choosing Your Exterior Paints

For most exterior wood in reasonably good shape, pick a high-quality acrylic primer. It remains elastic and permeable so moisture can “breathe” through the paint skin. This will decrease the chance of the paint bubbling and peeling due to moisture in the walls.

Consider oil- or shellac-based primers for cedar or redwood. With these, you have to factor in problems with tannin staining. Tannin is a natural substance in the wood which will bleed through and cause yellow or brown stains in your finished paint job. It is water soluble, so it will bleed through any water based product. Oil and shellac primers will stop tannin from bleeding through. Some water-based primers claim to be able to stop tannin staining, although sometimes two or more coats will be necessary. Use your own judgment.

Ask at your paint store about breathable oil primers, which are formulated to allow passage of moisture from the house through the paint. (All water-based products, unless they are sold specifically as moisture-barriers, are breathable.) Breathable oil primers would be your best choice to help combat tannin staining some plywood materials, in addition to cedar, redwood.

Use oil-based primers for very punky, soft older wood. Oil-based primers penetrate much deeper into the wood fibers and create a more solid substrate to paint over.

This article is brought to you by Roger Frost, The Barrie Home Inspector, browse our Home Maintenance Tips Blog for more Money Saving Tips

Home Inspector Interview in Florida

Home Inspection

Home Inspector Interview in Florida.   The Real Truth About Home Inspections
2011-05-09 22:40:59 (GMT) (WiredPRNews.com – Business, Press Releases, Real Estate)

05/09/2011 // Fort Lauderdale, FL, US // sheiladanzig // Calvin Johnson

In this month’s TRUTH ABOUT series, I take a look at Home Inspections. Do you really need one? We called a few home inspection services and one inspector, Calvin Johnson, who’s both certified and has 30 years of home building experience, was particularly helpful and generous with his advice.

I now know that obtaining a quality home inspection before you sign on the dotted line is the mark of a savvy investor and, when done right with the right company, can ultimately save you a lot of money.
Here are some of the highlights of my conversation with Calvin Johnson.

SHEILA: First off, what exactly is a home inspection?
CALVIN JOHNSON: A home inspection is an in-depth visual evaluation of the condition of your home. The idea is to identify any problems there may be and advise what repairs should be made, both now and down the road. Think of it as viewing your house through a microscope for problems that might not be readily visible to the untrained eye.

SHEILA: I’m a buyer. Do I really need a home inspection if I’ve already seen inside the house and it’s looks in move-in condition?
CALVIN JOHNSON: A home inspection is not the same thing as simply walking through a house to decide whether or not you want to buy it. When a buyer first “inspects” a house, they are trying to decide whether or not they could be happy living there. They gauge room sizes and the overall layout, perhaps count the number of closets, and flip on a light switch or two. This is not a home inspection. A professional home inspector methodically examines every square foot, looking for red flags that might indicate a need for major repairs, such as electrical or plumbing problems, defective drywall, a roof that leaks or a basement that floods, termite damage, etc. These are all important things to know before a home purchase.

SHEILA: Aren’t I protected anyway if something goes wrong?
CALVIN JOHNSON: You may be, if you can prove the seller knew about a problem and didn’t disclose it beforehand but the burden of proof will fall on you and that can be expensive. But, what if a problem exists that the seller doesn’t know about? Maybe that leaking roof hasn’t seeped water inside any rooms yet, but it will eventually. It makes sense to be prepared and fix something while it’s still minor instead of waiting until it’s major. Mold can go undetected for years if you’re not on the look out for it. That old aluminum electrical wiring may have held up until now but do you really want to risk a fire before replacing it?

SHEILA: Okay, so it’s up to the buyer then? If I’m a seller, I don’t need a home inspection, right?
CALVIN JOHNSON: Actually, it’s a very good idea for the seller to get a home inspection, ideally before they even list their house for sale. If you know what’s good and not so good about your home before you put it on the market, not only will you be smarter at setting the price, but you can also take care of minor repairs before a buyer ever sees it. Those minor repairs will reflect your care and love for your home. Buyers will realize they are getting a quality product.

SHEILA: Are all home inspectors pretty much the same?
CALVIN JOHNSON: No, unfortunately not. As with any other type of contractor, quality varies greatly. I strongly recommend taking the time to interview several contractors before deciding. You want a home inspector who takes pride in doing a good job and wants to take care of their clients. If they’re not particularly helpful when you first interview them, are they really the one you want advising you? Ask about their certifications, how long they’ve been licensed and what other qualifications they offer. Ask if they’ll give you a reference or two from several years earlier (so you can find out if any major problems arose that the clients weren’t warned about). And ask to read a sample report to get a sense of how in-depth their inspections are. My reports cover more than 1,000 individual items that I carefully inspect and note for each client. It’s important to ensure that your inspector will do a meticulous job for you.

SHEILA: How long should the inspection take?
CALVIN JOHNSON: Well, naturally, this depends on the size of the house, but a thorough inspection of a typical home should last at least 2 hours. My inspections usually take two to three hours on an average-sized home. It’s not really possible to do a thorough job in less time than that. Beware if someone tells you that they can do it faster.

SHEILA: Should I be there for the inspection?
CALVIN JOHNSON: Yes, if you can. This is a terrific way to learn the ins and outs of a house, particularly for buyers who are unfamiliar with the property. When clients are with me, I also point out things that may not need to be included in the report but would benefit from, say, an upgrade to avoid problems down the road. It’s a terrific learning experience. I tell my clients to bring a notebook, two pens and a digital camera. Be sure to wear comfortable clothes and shoes because you may be in the trenches a bit with the inspector.

SHEILA: What exactly can I expect from a good home inspector?
CALVIN JOHNSON: A good home inspector will give your home a thorough going over, both outside and in. They’ll look for telltale wall cracks and bulges, check for straight, plumb walls and reasonably precise corners, floor level disparities due to settling and other issues, even potential drainage issues — all of these come under the umbrella of a quality home inspection. An inspector can tell you if the soil grading is acceptable, that is, if the rainwater will pool against the foundation instead of draining away as it should.
I inspect the exterior for signs of active foundation settlement, which can weaken the frame of the home, as well as other structural problems, water or insect damage and wood rot. I evaluate the condition of every door and every window, and the condition of the roof — whether it will need replacing soon or bears the marks of a slipshod replacement job, and whether any leaks exist, all of which can be very expensive issues to remedy if you’re caught unawares.
I also check for proper insulation, the condition of walls and ceilings, cracks and caulking, evidence of Chinese drywall, which has become a real problem in recent years, and for the likelihood that lead paint may have been used on the walls. I look for evidence of insect damage, mold and mildew (both present and past), asbestos, radon and other potential health hazards.

SHEILA: Are the heating and air conditioning systems checked?
CALVIN JOHNSON: Absolutely! A good inspector will always test the heating and cooling systems, verify if the condenser unit coils or fan blades are in good condition, for example, and estimate the remaining life span of the systems.

SHEILA: What about the water pipes?
CALVIN JOHNSON: All visible plumbing is examined. I even check the type of shower pan because metal shower pans only last about 10 or 15 years compared to more superior materials. I check the drain lines, water flow/pressure and how much hot water the water heater provides. I look for water leaks, noisy pipes, the presence of lead pipes, which is a health hazard, and even systems where pipes have been “married” to dissimilar materials, because of the high risk of corrosion and leakage.

SHEILA: Can you advise me about the electrical system?
CALVIN JOHNSON: Certainly. I check to see whether the house is properly wired and grounded, whether there are oversized fuses or breakers in the main panel, and look for any exposed wires or frayed cables inside and out. All of these are very real fire and health risks.

SHEILA: Can the inspector fix the problems?
CALVIN JOHNSON: I can but, unfortunately, most don’t. I have a team available to make any necessary repairs at a very low cost to the consumer. Over the years, I realized that offering quality repairs was something my clients really wanted, particularly long distance buyers who don’t know any reputable, local contractors. I used my decades of home building experience to build a top notch team.

SHEILA: What if there’s a problem? Can I still buy or sell the house?
CALVIN JOHNSON: Don’t despair if your home isn’t perfect. They rarely are. Unless there is a serious structural problem that would prevent a sale, most issues can be dealt with pretty readily. Tackling a small repair can often prevent it from becoming a larger, more expensive one down the road. And, it’s helpful to know that, for example, the roof is fine now but will need to be replaced in, say, 5 or 10 years. That’s normal, but it helps to know now so you’re not caught unawares. And never forget that knowing a home’s strengths and weaknesses helps when negotiating a contract.

By Sheila Danzig, Editor of The Truth About Series

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