Barrie Home Inspector

Home Maintenance and Tips for Home Owners

Tag: electrical

Home Inspector in Barrie

Home Inspection

Getting a the right Home Inspector in Barrie can save you a lot of money and anxiety!

While a home inspection is a visual inspection of your potential future home, a lot of items can be found and / or determined by using knowledge and experience that can only be gained by performing thousands of home inspections and having the proper training.  The Barrie Home Inspector has inspected well over 5,000 residential properties and is a Certified Building Code Official, member of Nachi, member of Nacbi, member of OBOA and is also a Certified Master Inspector.

This experience and knowledge can help find areas of water intrusion, potential mould issues,  electrical nightmares, structural deficiencies and renovations done without a building permit.   None of these issues by them selves may be “Deal Breakers”, but wouldn’t you want to know about them prior to committing to buying?

No matter what anyone tells you, when you buy a house you are the sole person Don't Buy a Money Pitresponsible for any problems once you take possession.  Try and get any money back from the sellers once the funds have transferred.   Every trip to your lawyer will cost youj money,  every letter from your lawyer will cost you money.   The lawyer and realtor will both tell you to contact your home inspector for help.  Funny how the lawyer and realtor’s fees are pretty well etched in stone, but when it comes to the home inspector,  usually where the buck stops, people seem intent on finding the cheapest price and even just using the Realtor’s referral for hiring a home inspector.   If you don’t do your homework on qualifications then shame on you,  your gambling with a huge part of your families financial net worth.

Think about what a typcial home inspection includes:

Exterior
Roof, porches, driveways, garage, drainage, retaining walls, grading, and plants or vegetation that may impact on damage to home.

Interior

Electrical and plumbing systems; foundation; heating, ventilation and air conditioning systems; water heater, septic system, electrical system, windows, doors, floors, ceilings and walls.

During the home inspection we will open accessible access hatches and cover plates, but we will not take apart any coverings or items that have been secured with screws, nails or glue.   This home still belongs to the seller and we have no right to make any obtusive holes for inspection.\

We applaud Mike Holmes and his fight against shoddy workmanship and renovations done without permits etc.  When uncovering a number of electrical, structural, plumbing or heating deficiencies, we always note the possibility that renovation work was done without a permit.

Many contractors will pick up a “fixer upper” to have some work for winter months. Lipstick on a Pig Homeowners will also do quick make over repairs and improvements to try and increase their profit.  I personally like to call these projects, “Lipstick on a Pig“,  and this is another area where only experience and knowledge can prevent you from buying a potential “Money Pit”.

The City of Barrie has hundreds and hundreds of basement renovation that were done without building permits.  This is identified from such items as steel stud walls with no approved devices used to run electrical cables.  This could electrify the entire wall system is an electrical cable shorted out.

The City of Orillia has a huge amount of building that are being used other than permissible zoning.  Some single residential homes have been converted into triplexes, and if you buy on of those properties you will ultimately become responsible for any upgrading the City may determine at a future date.

Ramara Township has some of the worst examples of building quality that I have ever seen.  One day I inspected a cottage which had the entire exterior wrapped in plastic.  The interior walls had the electrical wiring visible up high on walls.   When I located the access hatch for sump I found out why.  The entire area under floor was full of water.  The client immediately call off the inspection.   We then proceeded over to a cottage in same neighbourhood for a “quick inspection”.   The floor joists in the crawl space were all completely rotted.  Some steel beams had been inserted to carry the load.   We called it a day after that inspection.

Buying a new home,  think your protected because there was a municipal inspection, actually around 12 visits for new home building permit is normal.  Here is a list of items I have found after house has passed final inspection by municipal building departments:

 

  • Electrical main panel too high from grade.  Max of 69 inches to top of breaker.
  • Sump pump missing air barrier.
  • Electrical cables touching heat ducts.
  • Missing or low insulation in attic
  • Missing Water and Ice shield, usually only on upper roof.  $400 dollar saving for roofers.  Most inspectors will not climb ladders.
  • Exterior penetrations not sealed.  Plumbing, vents, windows.
  • Gaps in garage fume barrier.
  • Hinges on exterior of doors.  Security issue as pins can be lifted.
  • Defects in concrete finishes, porches and garage floors.

An Educated Consumer is a Smart Consumer –  Take some time to understand who Be an Educated Consumeryou are hiring and if they are the right person for you to be trusting with your investment.

 

Inspecting Residential Homes in Barrie

Home Inspection

Before and individual starts inspecting residential properties they have to have the required experience and education to perform this type of inspection.  Unfortunately in Ontario there are no standards that Home Inspectors have to adhere to.  There was a movement to legislate a standard which involved the Provincial Government, CSA and various representatives from Home Inspector associations and the Real Estate industry.  This all went out the door when the Provincial Government decided to prorogue parliament.

Home buyers are now at the mercy of their Realtor’s, who have a vested interest in How to Choose a Home Inspector in Barrieselling the home, and their own education on how to properly choose a home inspector.  With all the legislation our government throws at its citizens,  it is still basically “Buyer Beware”, when it comes to buying a home.  One that money changes hands it can be extremely difficult, and expensive, to try and get something back for something damaged, water leaks, electrical problems, structural issues or any unforeseen expense.

Doing diligent research on your potential home inspectors qualifications can help prevent expensive repairs in the future.  Google and read about what qualifications a good home inspector should have,  ask questions, ask about prior experience before taking that part time home inspector course.  Get to know your home inspector and you will reap the rewards when having your home inspected.

Identifying structural problems and deficiencies in a home can save you thousands of Support Beam Cut Off in Barriedollars in unforeseen costs.  Any changes to a homes structure requires a building permit and a detailed set of plans.  Many cities and municipalities will want something stamped by a designer or engineer before approving work.  The city or municipality will also conduct inspections to ensure footings, support posts or columns and beams etc are properly installed and secured.  If you buy a home that has been illegally modified you then assume responsibility for the condition and any repairs required.

Many home in the Barrie, Alliston and Orillia area have had basement modifications made without obtaining building permits.  When you buy a home that has had renovations completed without a building permit, it means that the structure, electrical, plumbing and heating have not been inspected.  If for some reason the City was called in to look at your home they could request that all the walls, ceilings and floors be opened up to enable them to inspect any modifications to the homes original systems.  You would also have to obtain a building permit.

The Barrie Home Inspector is a Certified Building Code Official with the Ontario BuildingCertified Master Inspector BarrieOfficials Association,  Certified Master Inspector, Member of NACHI, NACBI and OBOA.  He is also WETT Certified with over 15 years of experience inspecting fireplaces, wood stoves, pellet stoves and outside wood boilers.

Home Inspection – Common Deficiencies

Real Estate

Only one service should be installed for each dwelling or building. A minimum 100-amp service is needed for a single residential dwelling unit.

Home inspectors in Ontario who take online training from United States may get confused when inspecting residential garages. In Ontario only a fume barrier is required not a fire separation.

US version of basement egress windows. Basements and every sleeping room should have at least one operable emergency escape and rescue opening that opens directly into a public street, public alley, yard or court. Where basements have one or more sleeping room, an emergency egress and rescue opening should be installed for each sleeping room, but is not required in adjoining areas of the basement.

Except for basement areas, the window described in Sentence shall have a maximum sill height of 1 000 mm (3 ft 3 in) above the floor.

Notches in solid lumber joists, rafters and beams should not be longer than one-third of the depth of the member (, and should not be located in the middle third of the span. Notches at the ends of the member should not be more than one-quarter of the depth of the member . Notches located in the outer thirds of the member should not be more than one-sixth of the depth of the member.

Minimum height of chimneys should be 3 feet. The top of the chimney should extend 2 feet higher than building or roof with 10 feet. Any portion of the masonry chimney passing through building must maintain a 2 inch clearance from combustibles. This air space provides protection from radiated heat and prevents conduction to combustibles.

A masonry chimney should terminate some distance above a roof in order to provide adequate upward draft in the chimney. Masonry chimneys should extend at least 2 feet higher than any portion of the building within 10 horizontal feet. The minimum height of the chimney should be 3 feet. Any portion of a masonry chimney located in the interior of the building (such as an attic space) should have at least 2 inches of air-space clearance from combustibles. As heat is transferred through the masonry material, any combustible material in close proximity to the heated walls may reach the point of ignition. The air space helps in the dissipation of heat.

When inspecting masonry chimneys the height of chimney must be two feet higher than building or roof structure within 10 feet. The part of the masonry chimney passing through the building is required to have 2 inch clearance from any combustibles locate in building. This protects combustibles from heat transfer from conduction and helps with radiation with a 2 inch air space.

A light fixture should be installed to illuminate the passageway and the mechanical appliance. A control switch should be installed near the entry to the passageway. An electrical receptacle should be installed at or near the mechanical appliance to allow for safe and convenient maintenance and service of the appliance.

In general terms the maximum length of a dryer duct would be 25 feet. After this you would need a dryer exhaust blower installed. Every dryer manufacturer has the type of pipe and length of duct permitted in their installation instructions. It is recommended not to install screens on your exterior vent.

The length of a clothes dryer exhaust ensures that the dryer exhaust blower will be able to push sufficient air volume to take away the moist air and lint. The length can be increased only when the make and model of the dryer is known, or when an approved blower fan calculation is provided.

Many homes have home made S traps and other contraptions under their sink etc. Traps are required to be the P type and have a minimum 2 inch water seal and be attached to an approved venting system.

An appliance used for heating water or storing hot water must be protected by a relief valve. A combination temperature- and pressure-relief valve (or separate temperature-relief and pressure-relief valves) protect a water heater from explosion. They are emergency devices. They are not intended to function continuously.

Plumbers, electricians and HVAC installers have all been known to cut or notch structural supports to install their systems. This can be structurally unsound and expensive to repair.

An open vent pipe that passes through a roof should extend at least 6 inches above the roof. If snow accumulation is expected at various times, the vent height should be increased so that the vent pipe will be at least 6 inches above the anticipated snow accumulation. The height in snowy areas is often determined by the local building official based upon local information. If the roof is used for a purpose other than weather protection the vent extensions should extend above the individuals occupying the roof, at least approximately 7 feet above the roof.

The diameter of bored holes into solid lumber structural members shall not be larger than one-third the depth of the member. Bored holes should be at least 2 inches from the top or bottom edge of the structural wood member, and should be a minimum of 2 inches from any other hole or notch in the member.

Working space in front of electrical panels is a minimum of 30 inches. 36 inches in Ontario. There shall also be a minimum of 30 inches width. If panel is wider than 30 inches the work space must be sized accordingly.

As a Home Inspector knowing plumbing, electrical and building codes is definitely a benefit for the home or business owner. If you don’t know the codes how can a home inspector inform his client of potential problems or expenses.

Professional Home Inspections by Orillia Certified Home Inspections. Read what a professional home insepctor finds at Orillia Home Inspection Defects for your Peace of Mind when buying a home.

Replacing That Fuse Box?

Electricity

Electrical fusesOlder homes tend to have fuse boxes; newer homes and upgraded electrical systems use circuit breakers. Either device will protect your wiring if used properly. Circuit breaker electrical panels are installed in almost all new home construction. They have become the norm as people find them more convenient, but fuses are still a viable source of protection if used correctly. In most industrial installations, fuses are the preferred method of protection over breakers. When a circuit breaker trips you reset the circuit breaker and “pop”, it trips again, or it trips again when you go back upstairs and turn back on what you were using when it tripped in the first place. At this point you need to stop and identify the root cause of the problem making the circuit breaker trip.

The primary advantage of a circuit breaker is that it can be reset. That really matters when you’re running small electrical circuits, like in your kitchen. Older homes really weren’t designed with such heavy electrical power draws such as microwaves, dishwashers and the many other modern conveniences we have today. Which is why the 2002 National Electric Code (or NEC) calls for two 20 amp general appliance circuits, plus dedicated circuits for refrigerators, dishwashers, food disposals and the like in new, or remodeled home kitchens. That’s a minimum.
A lot of older homes, started out with few circuits but over the years more are usually added.

With fewer circuits and ever increasing electrical requirements, fuses would be at great disadvantage, because you’d blow them periodically. But for bigger power levels, say above 40 amps, the advantages become less clear, particularly when the house electrical system has been properly designed for the expected.

When buying fuses, look for the CSA mark. This shows that the fuse complies with recognized safety standards. Fuses are more reliable than circuit breakers. When a fuse rated at 20 amps exceeds twenty amps, it blows. Period. So if you buy a house with a fuses, don’t panic and decide you need circuit breakers right away. Even an old fuse will not betray you. Provided it’s not too big for the wire it protects, (and people are notorious for upsizing screw-in fuses when they have one blow) a fuse is a very effective way of protecting the circuit, the appliance and people.

A fuse is nothing more than a wire that melts when a known level of current flows through it. Fuses don’t age. But if you need more circuits you’ll need to put in a new breaker panel or subpanel as nobody makes fuse boxes for residential applications these days.

Circuit breakers and fuses protect your house from power overloads caused by spikes in the power supply. Without these an appliance, such as your dryer or microwave oven could easily overheat and catch fire. For this reason you must use extreme caution when working with them. Keep in mind that any electricity is dangerous, and that which powers your house can stop your heart under the right circumstances. If you feel you are in over your head at anytime, don’t hesitate to call in a professional electrician rather than risk fire or electrocution.

Both fuses and circuit breakers are overcurrent protection devices as defined by the NEC. You chose your breaker or fuse size after you’ve picked your wire size. Of if you’ve picked a fuse size, then the wire must match it.

Older breakers can ‘freeze’ in place. Breakers need to be exercised, turned on and off, so corrosion doesn’t weld the contacts together enough to make the breaker slow, or reluctant to blow. Old “Pushamatic” panels are notorious for this problem. A good practice when you have breakers is to flip all your breakers on and off once or twice a year to prevent the breakers for such seizures.

Fuses are fast. They open in one fifth of a cycle, breakers 1.5 cycles. That’s not much time at 60Hz, but it matters when you’re trying to protect computer equipment. A fuse might make the difference if you get hit with lightning.

Fuses are more flexible. You can get them with a dual element time delay which allow for a temporary overload in amps which occurs when AC compressors, fridges, dryers or other appliances which have high start up current draws. In a dead short situation these fuses will blow in a fifth of a cycle.

Of course, fuses must be changed, while breakers need to be reset. To change a fuse, turn the circuit to off and use an insulated tool, like linesman’s pliers o pull the fuse, and push in the new one. Screw-in fuses (type H) can be safely unscrewed if you resist the temptation to stick your finger in the socket. And remember to put exactly the same rating fuses back in. Remember an up rated fuse does NOT up rate the wire behind it.

But breakers sometimes have to be changed too. Square D, a manufacturer renowned for quality, only warrants its breakers for one trip. The reason is that every trip involves an electrical arc, and potential damage to the breaker’s contacts. A breaker that trips often should be changed. Fuses are generally cheaper, but at the household current level, good breakers are quite affordable.

Barrie Home Inspector and Thermal Imaging

Home Inspection

Barrie Home Inspector and Thermal Imaging. Combine Infrared Scanning & Home Inspection for your next Barrie Home Inspection.  Free Thermal Imaging scans of your Exterior walls and Main electrical panel included with your home inspection package.

Heat Loss at brickThermal imaging cameras detect radiation in the infrared range of the electromagnetic spectrum (roughly 9,000-14,000 nanometers or 9-14 m) and produce images of that radiation, called thermograms. Since infrared radiation is emitted by all objects above absolute zero according to the black body radiation law, thermography makes it possible to see one’s environment with or without visible illumination.

The discovery of infrared started with a prism being placed into a ray of sunshine in a dark room which then reflected the colours of the rainbow using a property known as dispersion. This is the method Sir William Herschel utilized in the 1800′s in conjunction with thermometers to discern the presence of invisible light rays. He called his discovery the thermometric spectrum later to be known as infrared.

Thermal Imaging can be used for detection of potential equipment failure by measuring abnormal temperature signatures of electrical distribution system components. By evaluating the operating condition of these components, potential failure can be located and problem severity determined as part of a structured ongoing maintenance program.

Missing Insulation in Corner

When using a thermal imaging camera a special lens focuses the infrared light emitted by all of the objects in view. The focused light is scanned by a phased array of infrared-detector elements. The detector elements create a very detailed temperature pattern called a thermogram. It only takes about one-thirtieth of a second for the detector array to obtain the temperature information to make the thermogram. This information is obtained from several thousand points in the field of view of the detector array.

Light is often said to have a colour temperature. What this means is that the colour of the light is the colour of light radiated by a so-called black body which is at that temperature. Colour temperature is measured in Kelvins and the higher the colour temperature the bluer the light. Zero Kelvin is Absolute Zero and the freezing point of water is 273 Kelvins: a Kelvin degree is the same as a Celsius or Centigrade degree. In practice the actual temperature is not the same as the colour temperature.

Thermal Imaging has evolved into one of the most valuable diagnostic tools used for Predictive Maintenance (PM). Also known as Thermography, Thermal Imaging is the production of non-contact infrared, or “heat” pictures from which temperature measurements can be made. By detecting anomalies often invisible to the naked eye, thermography allows corrective action before costly system failures occur. Portable infrared (IR) imaging systems scan electrical systems, then constantly convert the thermal images to visible pictures for quantitive temperature analysis.

The Barrie Home Inspector was the first company in Simcoe County to offer Thermal Imaging as part of a Home Inspection.  Our training, experience and knowledge make us the Premier Home Inspection company for residential or commercial property investment.

Professional Barrie Home Inspections

Home Inspection, Real Estate

Professional Barrie Home Inspections.  A home inspection is a limited, non-invasive examination of the condition of a home.  Most Real Estate companies now recommend a home inspection.  Home inspections are usually conducted by a home inspector who has the training and certifications to perform such inspections. The inspector prepares and delivers to the client a written report of findings. The client then uses the knowledge gained to make informed decisions about their pending real estate purchase. The home inspector describes the condition of the home at the time of inspection but does not guarantee future condition, efficiency, or life expectancy of systems or components.

Barrie Home InspectorA Home Inspection is a visual inspection of all the components and systems of your home.  The home inspector will operate and find items that are not functioning correctly.  When a problem is found the inspector will include a picture and description of the problem in his report.

The Barrie Home Inspector’s report will include all the pictures of any deficiencies with a detailed description. This will include reviewing condition of heating system, electrical systems, roof, attic, visibleinsulation, windows, doors, foundation and  any visible structure.  The inspection also includes a Free Thermal Imaging Scan.

The home owner should attend the home inspection when ever it is possible.  This is the opportunity to learn where all the shut offs are for furnace, hot water tank, main water shut off, electrical shut, fireplace shut off, and the main water shut  off for the home.  You, as the client,  can take this opportunity to ask questions and you will be shown any deficiencies at the time the inspector finds them, giving you a great opportunity to learn fully about the cause and effect of the deficiency.

Your home inspection report will be put on line to allow you to view the report at your leisure.  At the end of the inspection we present you a slide show of all the pictures taken and review all the deficiencies found. If you attend the inspection this will give you information about every deficiency three times, ensuring you fully understand the nature of any defects.

Barrie Home Inspections has performed over 4,000 building inspections and is highly qualified to inspect your home.  His training includes being recognized as a Certified Building Code Official with the Ontario Building Officials Association and was a Registered Builder with HUDAC.  Barrie Home Inspections was the first company in Simcoe County to perform Thermal Imaging scans as part of the home inspection process.

Reversed Polarity – Home Inspection Findings

Home Inspection

Reversed Polarity – Home Inspection Findings.   Electrical Reversed Polarity Issues:

Everything works just fine, however my home inspector informed me that some of my electrical outlets have reversed polarity and should be rewired. Why is polarity an issue?

Polarity can be confusing. Within 120-volt household circuits, if the polarity is correct, the black wire is the hot wire and the white wire is neutral wire (grounded conductor). If the polarity is reversed the white wire is hot and the black wire becomes the neutral.

Some appliances have only two prongs and no ground (U-shaped) prong. Polarized appliances have a wide (neutral) blade and a narrow (hot) blade. This configuration fits with (grounded) receptacles with the same configuration. Problems occur when do-it-yourself homeowners forget that the brass screws on an outlet are for hot (black) wires and the silver screws are for the white(neutral) wires and the green screw is for the (ground) green wire

Polarity Matters:

With some appliances polarity doesn’t matter as with a clock for example. However with a lamp socket the electricity is intended to flow from the button on the bottom of the light bulb ( black hot wire) through the filament and back through the threaded collar (white neutral wire) to the neutral at the distribution panel box. If there is no bulb in the socket and the switch is on there is a greater chance of touching the threaded portion of the socket (or bulb) than the button on the bottom. If the polarity is reversed this threaded portion becomes the hot (live) side of the circuit and there is greater risk of electrical shock.

Polarity matters with appliances that have switches. When the appliance is plugged in the power should only go as far as the switch. If the polarity is reversed the power goes through the entire appliance and then back to the switch. If a loose wire in the appliance comes in contact with the outside case, the entire appliance becomes potentially “hot” electrically speaking and the risk of shock exists even though the appliance is not turned on.

For safety sake:

To keep yourself and family safe, if your home inspector indicates a reversed polarity situation have a qualified electrician check the wiring and make sure that this issue is resolved.

Inspecting Your Homes Attic

Home Inspection

Inspecting Your Homes Attic.  There should be an access opening to all attic spaces that exceed 30 square feet and have a vertical height of 30 inches or more. The rough-framed opening should be at least 22 inches by 30 inches. It should be located in a hallway or other readily accessible location. An attic access that is located in a clothes closet is often inaccessible due to permanent shelving installed. There should be headroom that is a minimum of 30 inches above the attic access. In some places “attic” is used more specifically to apply to lofts which have boarded floors and ceilings, and usually windows or skylights, and then “loft” is kept to mean a dark, unboarded roof-space which lacks these features.

Knee walls are vertical walls with an attic space directly behind them. You’ll typically find them in houses with finished attic spaces and dormer windows, as with 1-story houses. There are a couple of ways that you may see a knee wall insulated. The most important areas and most overlooked areas to insulate are the open joist ends below the knee wall. Air sealing reduces heat flow from air movement, or convection. Air sealing prevents water vapor in the air from entering the wall assembly. In a 100-square-foot wall, 1 cup of water can diffuse through drywall without a vapor diffusion retarder in a single year. Fifty cups can enter through a -inch round hole. Air sealing is 10 to 100 times as important as installing a vapor diffusion retarder.

Insulation performance is measured by R-value – its ability to resist heat flow. Higher R-values mean more insulating power. Different R-values are recommended for walls, attics, basements and crawlspaces, depending on your area of the country. Insulation works best when air is not moving through or around it. So it is very important to seal air leaks before installing insulation to ensure that you get the best performance from the insulation.

If you hear noises in your attic and you are unsure as to the source, it’s relatively easy to determine if it’s squirrels – squirrels are active during the daytime. Thus, if you hear scampering and scurrying noises during the day, it’s likely squirrels. Other attic-dwelling critters, such as rats and mice, bats, flying squirrels, opossums, and raccoons, are nocturnal, so they mostly only make noise at night. Flying squirrels are also nocturnal. If the noises happen at night, there’s a strong chance of mice or rats.

The squirrel often finds bedding material by shredding roof or wall paper, and shredding vent ducts and insulation around pipes. The biggest problem is that they chew, and I’ve seen dozens of cases in which they’ve chewed electrical wires. It’s estimated that half of house fires of unknown origin are due to rodent chewing on electrical wires.

Most people will have no reaction at all when exposed to molds. Allergic reactions, similar to common pollen or animal allergies, are the most common health effects for individuals sensitive to molds. Flu-like symptoms and skin rash may occur. Molds may also aggravate asthma. Fungal infections from building-associated molds may occur in people with serious immune disease but this is very rare. Most symptoms are temporary and eliminated by correcting the mold problem in the home.

When your home is inspected by a Professional Home Inspector they are checking for proper ventilation, presence of moisture, proper insulation, mould, proper structural support and signs of rodent or animal entry. Bat feces or vermiculite insulation removal can run into ten thousand dollars or more for removal. Compared to the cost of hiring the Barrie Home Inspector for $200.00 this is a really cost effective way to protect yourself and ensure Peace of Mind on your next Real Estate purchase.

 

Furnace Maintenance Basic Tips

Home Inspection

Furnace Maintenance Basic Tips.  Save yourself money and repair costs by following our simple maintenance steps.

Heating system and maintenance

In general, heating systems are easy to maintain and are usually trouble free. Efficient operation is a function of good regular maintenance. There are several things you can do to keep your heating system in top condition no matter the type of furnace you have. When a heating or cooling system fails, it is typically one of three things creating the issue ( the heat/cold source , the distribution system and/or the thermostat) . If the furnace or A/C doesn’t work , chances are the issue is at the source. The unit may have lost power , fuel may not be reaching the unit or the fuel may not be igniting. If the unit turns on but the cold or warm air isn’t reaching the rooms , the blower or distribution system may be faulty. A faulty thermostat or control , could keep the unit from turning on or cause it to turn on and off repeatedly. Whatever the problem, start with the simplest procedures. In most cases, all it takes is patience and common sense.

Before working on the system , take these preliminary steps:

Make sure the unit is receiving power . Make sure the unit doesn’t have a blown fuse or tripped breaker. Some furnaces have a separate power entrance on a separate panel and some have fuses mounted on or in the unit.
If the unit has a reset button , let the motor cool down and press the button. If it doesn’t work right away , wait a little while and try it again.
Make sure the units power switch is turned on. Remember , the unit may have a separate power switch.
If it is a gas burning unit, make sure the gas is on and the pilot light is lit. If it’s an oil burning unit check and make sure there is an adequate supply of oil.

If working on the system is necessary remember these important safety factors :

Before doing any work on the unit , make sure all power to the unit is turned off. Remember the unit could be on a separate panel. Make sure the breakers are tripped or the fuses are removed for the particular unit. If your not sure which breaker or fuse it is , trip the main breaker or remove the main fuse to shut off the power to the entire house.
If the unit is constantly tripping breakers or blowing fuses then there is an issue with the electrical. If this is the case , call a professional service person.
If your home smells of gas , leave your home immediately, leave the door open and call the gas company to report a leak. Do not turn any lights on or off and do not re-enter your home.

Keep your furnace clean

Dirt is your furnaces greatest enemy. It can waste fuel drastically lowering the units efficiency. Dirt affect three basic components on your furnace ( the filter , the blower and the motor ) so keeping them clean is the most important part of furnace maintenance. A disposable furnace filter should be replaced monthly during periods of continuous use. To check the filter , simply remove it and check to see if it looks clogged. If it looks clogged replace it regardless of how long it has been used. Install the filter with the arrow on the outer edge pointing towards the blower on the inside of the furnace. The filter size should be marked on the outer edges of the filter.

A permanent filter can usually be cleaned with a filter coating chemical which should be available at your local hardware store. Clean this filter according to the manufacturer’s instructions which may be located in the furnace housing.

Cleaning the blower assembly is also important for maintaining your furnace because the openings can often become clogged with dirt. To clean blower, remove panel that covers filter to gain access to blower or panel on front of furnace. This panel may be slip-fit on hooks or held by series of retaining screws. Access to inside of blower is usually gained by sliding out fan unit, which is held on track by screws. With toothbrush, clean each fan blade and spaces between blades. Then, with vacuum cleaner hose, remove all dirt and debris loosened by brushing. Also vacuum belts and pulleys. Wipe motor housing clean to prevent heat build-up in the motor.

Keep your furnace motor lubricated

To keep your furnace motor running cool, make sure it’s clean. Most furnace motors are permanently lubricated and sealed by the manufacturer however some have covered oil ports above the bearings near the motor shaft. If your furnace motor has oil ports , it should be lubricated annually .Apply two or three drops of 10-weight non-detergent motor oil (not all-purpose oil) to each port. Do not over lubricate. If the blower shaft also has oil ports then it should be lubricated as well. If the blower shaft has grease cups instead of oil ports then remove the caps from the grease cups and fill the cups with bearing lubricant which should be available at your local hardware store.

Inspect on your furnace belt

While lubricating your furnace motor, it is a good time to check the belts. If the belts are worn or frayed , replace them with new one’s that are the same type and size. If the belt squeaks while the motor is running , spray it with fan belt dressing which should be available at your local hardware store. These steps should hopefully help keep your furnace healthy and your family warm for years to come.

To keep the unit in good shape , have it professionally serviced annually. The end of the heating season is usually the best time to do this because of off-season discounts and the company won’t likely be as busy. It a good idea to have your air conditioning unit serviced at the same time.

Nathan Pile
Barrie Home Inspections

Inspecting Commercial Buildings and Their Power Supply

Home Inspection

Inspecting Commercial Buildings and Their Power Supply –  Sharing a Transformer with neighbor  check with local hydro authority before planning any upgrades.

Electrical Power

In electrical engineering, single-phase electric power refers to the distribution of alternating current electric power using a system in which all the voltages of the supply vary in unison. Single-phase distribution is used when loads are mostly lighting and heating, with few large electric motors. A single-phase supply connected to an alternating current electric motor does not produce a revolving magnetic field; single-phase motors need additional circuits for starting, and such motors are uncommon above 10 or 20 kW in rating.
In contrast, in a three-phase system, the currents in each conductor reach their peak instantaneous values sequentially, not simultaneously; in each cycle of the power frequency, first one, then the second, then the third current reaches its maximum value. The waveforms of the three supply conductors are offset from one another in time (delayed in phase) by one-third of their period.

Defining the Terms

Amps vs. Volts:
Think of electricity as water flowing through a pipe. The amperage is analogous to the amount of water flowing through the pipe. Amperage is also called current. Larger diameter wires can handle more current, just as larger pipes can handle more flow.

Voltage is analogous to pressure, the force which moves the water through the pipe. A small pump (low voltage) would produce less pressure than a big pump (high voltage).

In most buildings the voltage will either be 208 volt (low voltage) or 600 volt (high voltage). The critical question is how much voltage and amperage the system is rated at, or in other words, how much equipment can I use in the building?

208 Volt vs. 600 Volt:
Most modern buildings are equipped with 600 volt services. Equipment such as air conditioning units (over 5 tons), larger exhaust fans, electric heaters, and some lighting will utilize 600 volts. However, standard outlets and most lighting operate at 208 volts.

In North America, individual residences and small commercial buildings with services up to about 100 kV·A (417 amperes at 240 volts) will usually have three-wire single-phase distribution, often with only one customer per distribution transformer. In exceptional cases larger single-phase three-wire services can be provided, usually only in remote areas where poly-phase distribution is not available. In rural areas farmers who wish to use three-phase motors may install a phase converter if only a single-phase supply is available. Larger consumers such as large buildings, shopping centers, factories, office blocks, and multiple-unit apartment blocks will have three-phase service. In densely populated areas of cities, network power distribution is used with many customers and many supply transformers connected to provide hundreds or thousands of kV·A, a load concentrated over a few hundred square meters.

Buildings equipped with 600 volt services will always have a transformer to reduce the 600 volts to 208 volts for the main building panels. These transformers are generally located near the main electrical service entrance.

When comparing the amount of power available for different voltages, a 200 amp, 600 volt service has nearly three times the power of a 200 amp, 208 volt service.

This is of less importance. All 208 volt and 600 volt services are three phase. This means there are three power wires coming into the building.

Single phase services may be found in older, smaller buildings and are found exclusively in houses.

In some older buildings you can find a single phase and a three phase service. This is usually identifiable, on the outside, by two separate services leading to the building.

Determining Amperage of Service

When you are inspecting the electrical room, the two items of information you are looking for; the are amperage and voltage. The presence of a transformer in the electrical room is usually indicative that it is 600 volts. They do make transformers that can used to step up a 208 volt service to 600 volts, for a specific piece of equipment.

What you should typically see is a small conduit (high voltage, low current) going into the transformer and a larger conduit (low voltage, high current) coming out and leading to a breaker panel or a splitter panel.

The ratings on the switches and splitter panel are not to be relied on; they only tell you the maximum amount of current or voltage the equipment can handle. Do not rely on the rating of the hydro meter(s), for the same reason.

The best way to verify the amperage is to open the door of the main power switch and read the rating of the main fuses. This is sometimes impossible to do without turning the power off, but is always dangerous, unless you know what you are doing. Even with the power off, half the box is live. You can end your real estate career, right there in somebody’s electrical room.

Reading the gauge (size) of the main power wires (in the meter cabinet or main splitter panel) can also help to determine the amperage of the service. The gauge number is typically printed on the wire sheathing. Common wire gauge sizes, for copper conductors and the allowable amperages are as follows:

Wire Gauge Allowable Amperage
3 100 amps
000 200 amps
350MCM 300 amps
500MCM 400 amps

Posts Related to Inspecting Commercial Buildings and Their Power Supply

  • Green Energy Isn’t Always What It Seems

    Buyer Beware – Using Power Factor Correction and Transient Voltage Surge Suppression to Reduce Energy Costs. Today’s energy conscious climate has motivated many to do …

  • Electrical Basic Tips

    ELECTRICAL Wiring codes and their origin Wiring codes are intended to protect people from electrical shock and fire hazards .The very first electrical codes started …

  • Solar Power Cells – Endless Alternate Energy Source?

    Solar power cells have the possibility to use the energy attained from the sun and channel it into current electricity plants. Regular electrical energy utilizes …

  • Advantages Of Solar Cell Systems

    Solar technology is a highly demanded technology in which a tiny cell creates electric pulses by storing solar energy into it. Imagine if you take …

  • Power Line Clearances

    The Canadian Electrical Code Part I gives electrical utilities an exemption from the code for “installations and equipment in its exercise as a utility, located …

Barrie Home Inspector © 2013 Frontier Theme