Barrie Home Inspector

Home Maintenance and Tips for Home Owners

Category: Exterior

Exterior cladding information for home owners.

Moisture and Your Home’s Bricks

Exterior

Moisture and Your Home’s Bricks.   Moisture can do a great amount of damage to your home.  This is especially true when you live in a climate where freezing occurs.  Water turns to ice which expands when frozen and this can cause quite a lot of damage to your bricks and concrete products in your home.

Bricks for building may be made from clay, shale, soft slate, calcium silicate, concrete, or shaped from quarried stone. However, true bricks are ceramic, and therefore created by the action of heat and cooling.
Clay is the most common material, with modern clay bricks formed in one of three processes – soft mud, dry press, or extruded.

As a Professional Home Inspector I come across many brick homes where the brick weeping holes have been filled, commonly with spray foam, this is not permitted as the weeping holes are very important to the maintenance of brick.  This weep holes should be spaced 600 mm apart or 24 inches.  Plastic or metal preformed weep holes can be utilized to keep our insects etc.

Poor workmanship is one of the main causes of brick failure.  Poor mortar mixing, allowing mortar to dry out, poor storage of masonry units, and unbonded mortar on joints all lead to potential for mortar cracking and the intrusion of moisture which causes deterioration and spalling.  The proper application of mortar will affect how well the bricks will repel rain and other moisture issues.

Brick walls are never waterproof. Bricks and mortar are able to absorb a great deal of moisture in multiple ways and must be able to breathe to eliminate this moisture. Sealing weeping holes eliminates the drainage of the space behind bricks which also allows for air movement in cavity.  Solar heat will drive moisture on surface of bricks through into the cavity adding to moisture content.

There are two common types of window sills, brick and concrete sills.  Both of these sills are susceptible to moisture damage in winter climates.  Any small crack or failure for mortar to bond to bricks provides an entry point for moisture.  The freezing cycle will continue to expand these tiny cracks until brick damage occurs.

The Barrie Home Inspector routinely comes across this problem at the early stages of mortar cracking and routinely points out to his clients the benefits of maintenance in preventing more severe damage.  The old adage of “an ounce of prevention is better than a pound of cure” is especially true in the maintenance of your brick window sills.

Lawn Care and Pesticide Use in Ontario

Exterior

Lawn Care and Pesticide Use in Ontario.  Picture a healthy green lawn: perfect for lounging, great for ball games and cookouts, a real asset to your home. But did you know that your lawn-and how you take care of it-can also help the environment?

* Healthy grass provides feeding ground for birds, who find it a rich source of insects, worms, and other food. Thick grass prevents soil erosion, filters contaminants from rainwater, and absorbs many types of airborne pollutants, like dust and soot. Grass is also highly efficient at converting carbon dioxide to oxygen, a process that helps clean the air.

* Caring for your lawn properly can both enhance its appearance and contribute to its environmental benefits.

You don’t have to be an expert to grow a healthy lawn. Just keep in mind that the secret is to work with nature. This means creating conditions for grass to thrive and resist damage from weeds, disease, and insect pests. It means setting realistic goals for your lawn, whether you or a professional lawn care service will be doing the work. And if you choose to use pesticides, it means using them with care so as to get the most benefit and reduce any risks.

* Caring for your lawn in an environmentally sensible way can have a bigger impact than you might think. Your lawn is only a small piece of land, but all the lawns across the country cover a lot of ground. That means you and your lawn care activities, along with everyone else’s can make a difference to the environment. And that’s why taking care of the environment begins in our own backyards.

Working With Nature: A Preventive Health Care Program For Your Lawn

To start, think about lawn care as a preventive health care program, like one you would use to keep up your own health. The idea is to prevent problems from occurring so you don’t have to treat them. As they say, an ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure. A healthy lawn can out-compete most weeds, survive most insect attacks, and fend off most diseases-before these problems ever get the upper hand. Your lawn care program should be tailored to local conditions-the amount of rainfall you get, for example, and the type of soil you have. The sources listed at the back of this brochure can help you design a lawn care program that suits both local conditions and your own particular needs. But no matter where you live, you can use the program outlined in this brochure as a general guide to growing a healthy lawn.

A preventive health care program for your lawn should have the following steps:

1. Develop healthy soil
2. Choose a grass type that thrives in your climate
3. Mow high, often, and with sharp blades
4. Water deeply but not too often
5. Correct thatch build-up
6. Set realistic goals

Develop Healthy Soil

Good soil is the foundation of a healthy lawn. To grow well, your lawn needs soil with good texture, some key nutrients, and the right pH, or acidity/alkalinity balance. Start by checking the texture of your soil to see whether it’s heavy with clay, light and sandy, or somewhere in between. Lawns grow best in soil with intermediate or “loamy” soils that have a mix of clay, silt, and sand. Whatever soil type you have, you can probably improve it by periodically adding organic matter like compost, manure, or grass clippings. Organic matter helps to lighten a predominantly clay soil and it helps sandy soil retain water and nutrients.

Also check to see if your soil is packed down from lots of use or heavy clay content. This makes it harder for air and water to penetrate, and for grass roots to grow. To loosen compacted soil, some lawns may need to be aerated several times a year. This process involves pulling out plugs of soil to create air spaces, so water and nutrients can again penetrate to the grass roots.

Most lawns need to be fertilized every year, because they need more nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium than soils usually contain. These three elements are the primary ingredients found in most lawn fertilizers. It’s important not to over-fertilize-you could do more harm to your lawn than good-and it’s best to use a slow-release fertilizer that feeds the lawn slowly. It’s also important to check the soil’s pH. Grass is best able to absorb nutrients in a slightly acidic soil, with a pH of 6.5 to 7.0. Soil that is too acidic can be “sweetened” with lime; soil that’s not acid enough can be made more sour by adding sulfur.

Have your soil tested periodically to see whether it needs more organic matter or the pH needs adjusting. Your county extension agent (listed in your phone book under county government) or local nursery should be able to tell you how to do this. These experts can also help you choose the right fertilizer, compost, and other “soil amendments,” and they can advise you about aerating if your soil is compacted. If a professional service takes care of your lawn, make sure it takes these same steps to develop good soil. There’s no getting around it: your lawn’s health is only as good as the soil it grows in.

Choose A Grass Type That Thrives In Your Climate

The right type of grass-one that suits your needs and likes the local weather-will always give better results. Grasses vary in the type of climate they prefer, the amount of water and nutrients they need, their resistance to pests, their tolerance for shade, and the degree of wear they can withstand.

If you are putting in a new lawn, it will be worth your while to do some research to identify the best grass type for your needs. If you’re working with an established lawn that fails to thrive despite proper care, you might consider replanting with a different type of grass.

Why struggle to grow grass that’s susceptible to fungal disease if you live in a humid climate? Or a water loving species if you live in an area with water shortages? Grass that is well adapted to your area will grow better and resist local pests and diseases better.

New grass varieties and mixtures come out on the market every year. Ask your county extension agent or another one of the sources listed in this brochure for recommendations.

Mow High, Often and With Sharp Blades

Mowing high-that is, keeping your lawn a bit long-will produce stronger, healthier grass with fewer pest problems. Longer grass has more leaf surface to take in sunlight. This enables it to grow thicker and develop a deeper root system, which in turn helps the grass survive drought, tolerate insect damage, and fend off diseases. Longer grass also shades the soil surface keeping it cooler, helping it retain moisture, and making it difficult for weeds to germinate and grow.

A lawn’s ideal length will vary with the type of grass, but many turf grass species are healthiest when kept between 2-1/2 and 3-1/2 inches. You may have to readjust your mower-most are set too low.

It’s also important to mow with sharp blades to prevent tearing and injuring the grass. And it’s best to mow often, because grass adjusts better to frequent than infrequent mowing. The rule of thumb is to mow often enough that you never cut more than one-third of the height of the grass blades. Save some time and help your lawn and the environment by leaving short clippings on the grass-where they recycle nitrogen-rather than sending them in bags to the landfill.

You don’t have to grow a foot-high meadow to get good results. Just adding an inch will give most lawns a real boost.

Water Deeply But Not Too Often

Watering properly will help your lawn grow deep roots that make it stronger and less vulnerable to drought. Most lawns are watered too often but with too little water. It’s best to water only when the lawn really needs it, and then to water slowly and deeply. This trains the grass roots down. Frequent shallow watering trains the roots to stay near the surface, making the lawn less able to find moisture during dry periods.

Every lawn’s watering needs are unique: they depend on local rainfall, the grass and soil type, and the general health of the lawn. But even in very dry areas, no established home lawn should require daily watering.

Try to water your lawn in a way that imitates a slow, soaking rain, by using trickle irrigation, soaker hoses, or other water-conserving methods. It’s also best to water in the early morning, especially during hot summer months, to reduce evaporation. Apply about an inch of water-enough that it soaks 6-8 inches into the soil. Then let the lawn dry out thoroughly before watering it again.

The best rule is to water only when the lawn begins to wilt from dryness-when the color dulls and footprints stay compressed for more than a few seconds.

Correct Thatch Build-Up

All grass forms a layer of dead plant material, known as thatch, between the grass blades and the soil. When thatch gets too thick-deeper than one-half inch-it prevents water and nutrients from penetrating to the soil and grass roots. Some grasses tend to form a thick layer of thatch. Overuse of fertilizer can also create a heavy layer of thatch. You can reduce thatch by raking the lawn or using a machine that slices through the thatch layer to break it up. Sprinkling a thin layer of topsoil or compost over the lawn will also help.

In a healthy lawn, microorganisms and earthworms help keep the thatch layer in balance by decomposing it and releasing the nutrients into the soil.

Set Realistic Goals

Setting realistic goals will allow you to conduct an environmentally sensible lawn care program. It’s probably not necessary to aim for putting-green perfection. Did you know that a lawn with 15 percent weeds can look practically weed-free to the average observer? Even a healthy lawn is likely to have some weeds or insect pests. But it will also have beneficial insects and other organisms that help keep pests under control. Also realize that grass just can’t grow well in certain spots. Why fight a losing battle with your lawn, when you have other options? At the base of a tree, for example, you might have better luck with wood chips or shade-loving ornamental plants like ivy, periwinkle, or pachysandra. If your climate is very dry, consider converting some of your lawn to dry-garden landscaping. It could save time, money, and water resources.

What Is IPM?

Integrated Pest Management is essentially common-sense pest control. IPM is not a new concept; some forms of it have been practiced for centuries.

IPM involves the carefully managed use of three different pest control tactics-biological, cultural, and chemical-to get the best long-term results with the least disruption of the environment. Biological control means using natural enemies of the pest, like lady bugs to control aphids. Cultural or horticultural control involves the use of gardening methods, like mowing high to shade out weeds. Chemical control involves the judicious use of pesticides. IPM is a highly effective approach that minimizes the use of pesticides and maximizes the use of natural processes. Lawn care professionals who use IPM should have a sophisticated understanding of the ecosystem of your turf and the available pest control tactics. Home gardeners can also practice IPM by following the steps outlined in this article.

Tips For Using Pesticides

Sometimes, even with good lawn care practices, weather conditions or other factors can cause pest problems to develop. Pesticides can help control many lawn pests. But pesticides have risks as well as benefits, and it’s important to use them properly.

The chemicals we call pesticides include insecticides, herbicides, and fungicides. These products are designed to kill or control pest insects, weeds, and fungal diseases. Pesticides can be very effective. But don’t be tempted to rely solely on pesticides as a quick-fix solution to any lawn problem. Serious, ongoing pest problems are often a sign that your lawn is not getting everything it needs. In other words, the pests may be a symptom of an underlying problem. You need to correct the underlying problem to reduce the chance that the pest will reappear. All pesticides are toxic to some degree. This means they can pose some risk to you, to your children and pets, and to any wildlife that venture onto your lawn-especially if these chemicals are overused or carelessly applied. Pesticides can also kill earthworms and other beneficial organisms, disrupting the ecological balance of your lawn.

Store pesticides out of children’s reach in a locked cabinet or garden shed.

When Spraying, Protect your skin, your eyes, and your lungs. Wash this clothing separately before using it again.

Before Using Any Pesticide, Be Sure To Review These Basic Rules

1. Take safety precautions. Never assume a pesticide is harmless.
* Read the entire label and follow its instructions. Use only the amount directed, at the time and under the conditions specified, and for the purpose listed.
* Be sure to wear any protective clothing-like gloves, long sleeves, and long pants-indicated on the label. Wash this clothing separately before using it again.
* Keep children and pets away from pesticides, and make sure no one goes on a treated lawn for at least the time prescribed by the pesticide label.
* Remember to follow any state or local requirements for posting your treated lawn or notifying your neighbors that a pesticide has been applied.
* Store and dispose of pesticides properly, according to the label directions and any state and local regulations.

2. Use pesticides to minimize pests, not eradicate them. The latter is often impossible and unnecessary.

3. Be sure you have accurately identified the pest so you can choose the best pesticide for the job and use it most effectively. Obtain professional advice from your county extension agent or a local expert.

4. Spot treat whenever possible. In most cases, it isn’t necessary to treat the whole lawn with pesticides if the problem is confined to certain areas. Spraying more than necessary is wasteful and can be environmentally damaging.

If you have questions about a pesticide, call EPA’s toll free National Pesticide Telecommunications Network (1-800-858-7378). For general information on minimizing pesticide risks, call or write EPA for a free copy of the Citizen’s Guide to Pesticides. The number to call is 703-305-5017; the address is: EPA, Office of Pesticide Programs, Field Operations Division, H7506C, 401M Street, S.W., Washington, D.C. 20460.

Choosing A Lawn Care Service

Many people choose to hire a professional company to help maintain their lawn. Lawn care companies offer a range of services, from fertilizing and pest control to aerating, mowing, and renovation.

Lawn care companies should follow the same healthy lawn program outlined in this brochure. They should also follow the same precautions for minimizing pesticide risks.

How can you be sure that a service will do these things?

Start by asking questions like these:

Q. Is the company licensed?
A. Nearly all states require lawn care companies to be licensed. The qualifications for obtaining a license vary from state to state, but having a license is one indication that the company is reputable and operating legally.
Q. Does the company have a good track record?
A. Ask neighbors and friends who have dealt with the company if they were satisfied with the service they received.

Call the Better Business Bureau or the state or local consumer protection office listed in your phone book; have they received any complaints about the company? Determine from the state pesticide regulatory agency if the company has a history of violations.

Q. Is the company affiliated with a professional lawn care association?
A. Affiliation with a professional association helps members to stay informed of new developments in the lawn care field.
Q. Does the company offer a variety of pest management approaches? Does it apply pesticides on a set schedule or only when they are really needed? Does it use integrated pest management, or “IPM”-an approach that often reduces pesticide use by combining it with other, non- chemical methods of pest control?
A. More and more lawn companies are offering integrated pest management (IPM) in response to public concern about pesticides. Be aware that IPM is a general term and that companies may use it to describe a wide range of activities. Find out exactly what a company means if it says it uses IPM.
Q. Is the company willing to help you understand your lawn’s problems and the solutions?
A. Lawn services generally apply fertilizers and pesticides. But you may be the one who mows and waters-and poor watering and mowing practices can lead to disappointing results. The company should tell you how it plans to take care of your lawn, and advise you about the work you need to do to keep your lawn in good shape.
Q. Will the company tell you what pesticides it applies to your lawn and why, and what health and environmental risks may be presented by their use?
A. You have a right to this information. If asked, the company should readily supply it. All pesticides sold legally in the United States are registered by EPA, but such registration is not a guarantee of safety. Ask to see a copy of pesticide labels to make sure they bear an EPA registration number, and to review the directions that should be followed. If the company can’t answer your questions about the chemicals it uses, call NPTN (1-800-858-7378) for more information.

Ontario Home Owners Special Considerations

Under Ontario’s cosmetic pesticides ban, which came into effect on April 22, 2009, consumers can purchase and use biopesticides and certain lower risk pesticides for cosmetic purposes to manage weeds, insects and plant diseases.

Consumers can also purchase and use pesticides for public health or safety reasons such as fighting West Nile Virus, killing stinging insects like wasps, or to control poison ivy and other plant poisonous to human touch.

New Requirements for Controlled Sale (Class 7) Pesticides

As of April 22, 2011, controlled sale pesticides will not be readily accessible to members of the public. Purchasers of controlled sale pesticides will need to speak to a store employee for service. For example, some stores may store their controlled sale pesticides behind a staffed counter or in locked cabinets or cages that can only be unlocked by staff.

Controlled Sale Pesticides Handouts

Purchasers of controlled sale pesticides must receive written information, approved by the ministry, at the time of purchase. This information will describe uses allowed under the ban.

Some retailers will provide the Ministry of the Environment’s Controlled Sale (Class 7) Handout or the Class 7 Handout Domestic Products (2009 version) or the Controlled Sale (Class 7) Bear Repellent Handout to purchasers of products containing capsaicin for repelling bears.

Other retailers may choose to incorporate the applicable Ministry of the Environment-approved wording into cash register receipts or to provide handouts to consumers.

Homemade Pesticides

Homemade pesticides are illegal and may pose a risk to you, your garden and the environment. More information is available through Health Canada.

Check out the Homeowners and Gardeners Fact Sheet for more information about:

Allowed pesticide uses
Hiring a licensed exterminator to maintain the health of trees, lawns and gardens.
Check out the Private Land and Woodlot Owners Fact Sheet for information about:

The arboriculture exception to maintain the health of trees
The forestry use exception to protect trees from pests and competing vegetation
Check out the Community Gardeners Fact Sheet for information about specific requirements for those who grow vegetables or other plants on public land such as plots or allotments in hydro corridors.

For help with your chemical-free garden, check out the Ontario Ministry of Agriculture, Food and Rural Affairs’ Online Gardener’s Handbook.

For help with pest problems using pesticides allowed under the ban, check out Managing Pests in Lawns and Gardens.

Posts Related to Lawn Care and Pesticide Use in Ontario

City of Barrie Pool and Spa Fencing Requirements

Exterior, Personal Interest, Real Estate

City of Barrie Pool and Spa Fencing Requirements

By-Law 94-59
To regulate the protective
enclosure of privately owned
outdoor swimming pools and to
repeal By-law 77-104.
This By-law is printed under and by
authority of the Council of the City of
Barrie, Ontario, Canada
Disclaimer:
The following consolidation is an electronic reproduction made available for information
only. It is not an official version of the By-law. The format may be different, and plans,
pictures, other graphics or text may be missing or altered. The City of Barrie does not
warrant the accuracy of this electronic version.
This consolidation can not be distributed or used for commercial purposes. It may be used
for other purposes, only if you repeat this disclaimer and the notice of copyright. Official
versions of all By-laws can be obtained from the City Clerk’s Office by calling (705) 739-4204.
Bill # 73
BY-LAW NUMBER 94-59
A By-law of the Corporation of the City
of Barrie to regulate the protective
enclosure of privately owned outdoor
swimming pools and to repeal By-law
77-104
WHEREAS, Subsection 23 of Section 210 of the
Municipal Act, 1990, (Chapter 302 of R.S.O.) permits a
by-law to be passed by a municipal council to regulate
fences and gates that enclose privately owned outdoor
swimming pools and other related matters,
AND WHEREAS, the Council of The Corporation of the
City of Barrie deems it expedient to provide such
regulations,
AND WHEREAS, the Council of The Corporation of the
City of Barrie adopted By-law 77-104,
AND WHEREAS, by resolution 94-G-124, the Council of
The Corporation of the City of Barrie deems it expedient
to amend the by-law to regulate the protective enclosure
of privately owned outdoor swimming pools.
NOW THEREFORE, the Council of the Corporation of the
City of Barrie enacts as follows:
1. SHORT TITLE
This By-law may be cited as the “Pool Enclosure
By-law”.
2. DEFINITIONS
In this By-law:
(1) “Authority having jurisdiction” means the Chief
Building Official and any Building Inspector or
Property Standards Officer authorized by the
Chief Building Official to administer this bylaw.
(2) “Building Inspector” means an inspector
appointed by the Council of the Corporation to
inspect buildings and structures pursuant to
the Building Code Act.
(3) “Chief Building Official” means the person
appointed by the Council of the Corporation to
administer the Building Code pursuant to the
Building Code Act.
(4) “Corporation” means the Corporation of the City
of Barrie.
(5) “Enclosure” means a fence, wall or other
structure or thing, including gates and doors,
which surrounds the perimeter of a pool which
would discourage the entry of a person into the
enclosed area.
– 2 –
(6) “Pool” means a privately-owned outdoor body of
water,
(a) contained in a container that is,
(i)artificial, manufactured or assembled;
(ii)capable of retaining <a href=”http://www.napoleon.cc/cottage/”target=”_blank”rel=”external”title=”Midland Cottage Inspections” >water measuring
more than 460mm (18.1 inches) in depth
at any point, and
(iii)capable of being used for swimming,
bathing, diving or wading,
(6) (b) and includes,
(i)manufactured swimming pools, both
above-ground and in-ground;
(ii)custom built pools; and
(iii)hot tubs and spas,
(c) but does not include,
(i)irrigation ponds on farms used for
watering livestock or for irrigation;
(ii)naturally formed depressions in the
ground surfaces
(iii)garden or fish ponds used as
landscaping features with plant
materials grown in and around the
pond; and
(iv)public swimming pools as defined and
regulated by the Ontario Building
Code.
(7) “Property Standards Officer” means an inspector
appointed by the Council of the Corporation
assigned the duties of enforcing the
Corporation’s Minimum Property Maintenance and
Occupancy Standards By-law.
3. ADMINISTRATION AND ENFORCEMENT
The Chief Building Official shall be responsible for
the administration and enforcement of this by-law.
4. POOL ENCLOSURE PERMIT
(1) No person shall excavate for, erect or install
a pool, or cause the excavation for, erection
of or installation of a pool unless a permit
for the pool enclosure has been issued by the
Chief Building Official.
(2) To obtain a pool enclosure permit, an applicant
shall file an application in writing on forms
prescribed by and available from the Chief
Building Official, and shall supply any other
information relating to the application as
required by the Chief Building Official.
– 3 –
(3)Every pool enclosure permit application shall:
(a) describe the land on which the work is to
be done, by a description that will
readily identify and locate the site on
which the pool will exist;
(b) be accompanied by plans, sketches and
specifications about the pool enclosure as
described in this by-law;
(c) be accompanied by the required fees as
determined in accordance with Schedule
“A”;
(d) state the names, addresses and telephone
numbers of the owner, applicant and the
constructor;
(e) be signed by the applicant who shall
certify as to the truth of the contents of
the application.
(4) The Chief Building Official shall, where the
conditions in Subsection 4(3) above have been
fulfilled, issue a pool enclosure permit to the
applicant unless,
(a)the proposed pool or pool enclosure will
contravene this by-law or any other
applicable law;
(b)the application for it is incomplete; or
(c)any fees due are unpaid.
(5) Where an application for a permit remains
incomplete or inactive for 30 days after it is
made, the application may be deemed by the
Chief Building Official to have been abandoned,
without further notice to the applicant.
5. PLANS AND SPECIFICATIONS
(1) Every applicant shall furnish,
(a) sufficient plans, specifications,
documents and other information to enable
the Chief Building Official to determine
whether the proposed pool enclosure
conforms to this by-law and any other
applicable laws;
(b) a site plan referenced to a current plan
of survey certified by a registered
Ontario Land Surveyor and a copy of such a
survey shall be filed with the
municipality unless this requirement is
waived because the Chief Building Official
is able, without having a current plan of
survey, to determine whether the proposed
pool and pool enclosure conforms to this
by-law and any other applicable laws. The
site plan shall include,
– 4 –
(i)lot size and dimensions of the
property;
(ii)setbacks of the pool and pool
enclosure from existing and proposed
buildings and property lines;
(iii)existing and finished ground levels
or grades, and
(iv)existing rights of way, easements and
municipal services.
(2) Plans submitted shall be legible and be drawn
to scale upon paper or other suitable and
durable material to the satisfaction of the
Chief Building Official.
(3) Plans and specifications furnished according to
this by-law become the property of the
municipality and will be disposed of or
retained in accordance with relevant
legislation.
6. FEES
(1) The Chief Building Official shall determine the
required fees calculated in accordance with
Schedule “A” for the proposed pool enclosure
and the applicant shall pay such fees at the
time of making an application.
(2) Upon written request, the Chief Building
Official shall determine the amount of fees, if
any, that may be refunded in accordance with
Schedule “A” in the case of,
(a) withdrawal of an application,
(b) abandonment of an application,
(c) denial of a permit, or
(d) revoking of a permit.
7. POOL ENCLOSURE COMPLIANCE
(1) No person shall erect or install or cause to be
erected or installed any pool enclosure except
in accordance with this by-law.
(2) No person shall make a material change or cause
a material change to be made to a plan,
specification, document or other information on
the basis of which a permit was issued without
notifying, filing details with and obtaining
the authorization of the Chief Building
Official.
(3) No person shall erect or install or cause to be
erected or installed any pool enclosure except
in accordance with the plans, specifications,
documents and any other information on the
basis of which a permit was issued and any
changes to them authorized by the Chief
Building Official.
– 5 –
(4) No person shall place water or allow water to
be placed in any pool to a depth of more than
460mm unless the pool is safely enclosed by a
pool enclosure that complies with the standards
set out in this by-law.
(5) Every pool shall continue to be enclosed by a
pool enclosure that complies with the standards
set out in this by-law so long as water
remains, or is capable of remaining in the pool
to a depth of more than 460mm.
8. POOL ENCLOSURE STANDARDS
(1) Every pool enclosure shall be designed,
constructed and maintained so as to discourage
the entry of small children into the pool area.
(2) The following standards are deemed by the
Corporation to satisfy the intent of Article
8.(1) above.
(a)HEIGHT:Every pool enclosure shall be not
less than 1.2 metres (47.23 inches)
in height measured from the finished
grade and any climbable fixture or
feature on the exterior side of the
pool enclosure, to the top of the
pool enclosure, as determined at the
time of the initial pool enclosure
approval.
(b)RIGIDITY:Every pool enclosure shall be
constructed and maintained to be
rigid and secure, able to resist any
reasonable lateral forces that may be
applied to the enclosure material
within its minimum required height.
(c)OPENINGS:No openings, spaces or gaps in the
enclosure material shall allow the
passage of a spherical object having
a diameter of 100mm (3.94 inches)
within the enclosure’s minimum
required height.
(d)NON-CLIMBABLE:Within the enclosure’s minimum
required height, no horizontal or
diagonal components shall be located
so as to facilitate the climbing of
the enclosure. Horizontal or
diagonal members shall be spaced not
less than 900mm (35.42 inches)
measured between the top edge of
adjacent members.
(e)GATES AND DOORS:All gates and doors of the
pool enclosure other than from the
property’s dwelling unit, shall be
kept in a closed, secure and latched
position whenever the pool area is
unattended by a supervisory adult.
All gates shall be of equivalent construction
and height as the minimum requirements of the
pool enclosure and shall be supported on
substantial hinges.
– 6 –
(3) Without limiting the generality of the above
noted principles, the following situations
shall be further regulated within the minimum
required height of the enclosure as follows.
(a) BOARD FENCES
(i) All board material shall be of
minimum 19mm thickness (1 inch
nominal thickness).
(ii) All horizontal support rails
shall be of minimum 39mm x 89mm
(nominal 2″ x 4″) material.
(iii)All support posts shall be of
minimum 89mm x 89mm (nominal 4″
x 4″) material spaced not more
than 2.5m (8.2 feet) apart.
(b) LATTICE FENCES
(i) The openings of any lattice
material shall be not greater
than 51mm x 51mm (2″ x 2″) in
size.
(ii) All lattice material shall be
laterally supported at all edges
and at horizontal and vertical
spacing of not more than 1.2
metres (3.94 ft).
(c) CHAIN LINK FENCES
(i) All chain link fences, posts and
rails shall be of galvanized or
vinyl coated material.
(ii) All chain link mesh material
shall be a minimum of No. 14
gauge wire.
(iii)The openings of any chain link
fencing material shall be not
greater than 51mm x 51mm (2 inch
x 2 inch) in size.
(iv) The chain link mesh material
shall be supported at the top
and bottom by an approved
reinforcing cable or a rail.
(v) Every chain link pool enclosure
shall be supported by posts that
are not less than 38mm (1.5
inches) in diameter, spaced not
more than 2.5 metres (8.20 ft.)
apart.
(d) ABOVE GROUND POOLS
Only the ladders or stairs providing
access to an above ground pool need
be enclosed in accordance with this
by-law provided the following
conditions are maintained:
– 7 –
(i) The sides of an above ground pool
shall be not less than 1.2 metres
(3.94 ft.) in height measured from
the finished grade and any climbable
fixture or feature on the exterior
face of the pool wall to the top rail
of the pool wall, as determined at
the time of the initial pool
enclosure approval.
(ii) Pumps, air conditioners, heaters,
filters or other appliances or
equipment shall be located not less
than 1.2 metres (3.94 ft.) from the
top rail of the pool walls or shall
be enclosed in accordance with this
by-law.
(e) SPAS
Outdoor spas need not be enclosed by
a pool enclosure provided they are
enclosed by a solid, locked cover
that is secured over the entire water
surface when the area surrounding the
spa is unattended by a supervisory
adult.
(f) OTHER MATERIALS
(i) Other fencing materials may be
approved by the Chief Building
Official where it can be
demonstrated that the material
will perform with an equivalent
degree of safety as outlined in
Section 8 (2) of this by-law.
(g) TEMPORARY FENCING
For a period of not more than two
weeks, sections of a pool enclosure
can be replaced with temporary
fencing material such as plastic mesh
to facilitate maintenance or access
to the pool area, provided the
temporary fence material is;
(i) at least 1.2 metres (3.94 ft.)
in height
(ii) securely supported by posts
spaced not more than 2.0 metres
(6.56 ft.) apart, and
(iii) securely fastened to the
remaining sections of the pool
enclosure.
– 8 –
(h) PROHIBITED MATERIALS
(i) No barbed wire or anything
having similar dangerous
characteristics are permitted as
a component of a pool enclosure.
(ii) No electrical current is
permitted to be connected to or
conducted through any part of a
pool enclosure.
9. PENALTIES
(1) Any person who contravenes any provision of
this by-law is guilty of an offence.
(2) A person who is convicted of an offence is
liable to a ,000 fine as setout in the
Provincial Offences Act and in By-law 90-268.
10.BY-LAW REPEALED
(1)That By-law 77-104 is hereby repealed.
(2)This by-law comes into force and has effect on the
date of its enactment.
READ a first and second time this 18th day of April,
1994.
READ a third time and finally passed this 18th day of
April, 1994.
THE CORPORATION OF THE CITY OF BARRIE
____________________________________
MAYOR
____________________________________
CITY CLERK
BY-LAW NUMBER 94-
SCHEDULE “A”
1. FEES
The following fees shall be collected by the Chief
Building Official.
(a) Pool Enclosure Permit $ 50
(b) Pool Enclosure Permit when project
is combined with a deck permit or
changehouse permit issued concurrently $ 25
(c) Reinspections pursuant to an
Order to Comply $ 20
(d) Letters confirming compliance $ 30
2. PERMIT FEE REFUNDS
Upon receipt of a written request, the Chief Building
Official shall refund 60% of the permit fee where the
permit is being cancelled or has been revoked,
provided the request is received not more than 30 days
after the permit has been cancelled or revoked and no
inspections have been performed.
POLICY & PROCEDURE
FOR
POOL FENCE ENCLOSURES
1. REGULATION
The requirement to safely enclose a pool is a regulatory
matter of the City of Barrie administered by the Chief
Building Official. The regulations are contained in a
municipal by-law.
2. PERMIT APPLICATIONS
(a)Applications for a pool enclosure permit shall be
submitted by the owner or his agent, on prescribed
forms, to the office of the Chief Building
Official.
(b)The applications shall be reviewed and discussed
with the applicant to confirm thoroughness of
information. Fees shall be collected and a
receipt issued.
(c)The application shall be entered into the computer
filing system, and a permit number assigned to the
application.
(d)A file folder shall be prepared with supplementary
forms and a permit placard.
(e)The file shall be reviewed for compliance with the
municipal zoning by-law and signed by the zoning
inspector.
(f)The file shall be reviewed by any other municipal
staff as deemed necessary to confirm compliance of
the project with any other municipal regulations.
(i)The owner shall be notified of any other agency
approvals that may be required to be submitted, as
soon as they become known.
(j)Plans describing the type of pool enclosure shall
be reviewed for compliance with the pool enclosure
by-law.
(k)The owner shall be notified of any issues that may
affect the issuance of a permit forthwith as they
arise.
3. PERMIT ISSUANCE
(a)The permit shall be issued when the application has
been reviewed thoroughly and found to be in
compliance with all regulatory requirements.
(b)The applicant shall be notified of the permit
issuance and asked to come to the office to pick
up the permit documents. The applicant shall be
advised of the required inspection notification.
4. INSPECTIONS
(a)An inspection shall be carried out as soon as
possible after receiving notification of the
readiness to inspect.
(b)Notwithstanding the requirement to be notified, an
inspection shall be carried out of a property when
the permit is more than 4 weeks old and no
notification has been received.
(c)When inspecting, the pool enclosure shall be
thoroughly inspected to confirm compliance of the
enclosure with the requirements of the pool
enclosure by-law and of the approved permit
drawings.
4. (d)If the pool enclosure is complete and satisfactory,
the owner shall be advised that the pool can be
filled and that no further inspections will be
required.
(e)If the pool enclosure includes any sections of
temporary fencing, and such enclosure meets the
requirements of the pool enclosure by-law, the
owner shall be advised that the pool can be
filled, but that the enclosure must be completed
with permanent fencing within two weeks, and
notification given for a re-inspection.
(f)When reinspection of a pool enclosure is required
due to temporary fencing, the inspector shall
schedule to return to the property in two weeks
time, even if notification is not received.
5. CLOSING FILES
(a)The inspection file for a pool enclosure permit
shall be closed as soon as possible following a
satisfactory inspection of the completed pool
enclosure.
6. ENFORCEMENT
(a)If, during an inspection pursuant to a pool
enclosure permit, it is found that the pool
enclosure does not meet any item of the by-law
regulation, the owner shall be notified of the
deficiency and the options available to correct
same. The owner shall be asked to notify the
office for a re-inspection prior to the placing of
any water in the pool.
(b)Notwithstanding the requirement to notify, the
inspector shall schedule to return to the property
1 week following the last inspection.
(c)If, upon reinspection, it is found the deficiency
has not been satisfactorily resolved, the
inspector shall provide the owner with a written
order, specifying the deficiency, and requiring
compliance and a reinspection of the pool
enclosure prior to filling the pool. A maximum of
1 week shall be granted to comply with the by-law.
(d)Unless notified earlier, the inspector shall return
to the property 1 week from the last inspection to
determine compliance of the pool enclosure. An
inspection fee is charged for this inspection.
(e)If, upon reinspection, the pool enclosure remains
incomplete, the inspector shall prepare for court
charges as per the Provincial Offences Act.
DANGEROUS CONDITIONS
(f)If, at any time, the inspector discovers any
dangerous, unsafe conditions, such conditions
shall be brought to the attention of the Chief
Building Official to determine what emergency
measures are to be taken to protect the public.
WATER IN BEFORE AUTHORIZED
(g)If, upon inspection of a property, water has been
placed in a pool and the pool enclosure does not
meet the requirements of the by-law, the inspector
shall issue an order to the owner requiring
compliance with at least temporary fencing within
24 hours, after which the inspector shall prepare
for court charges if the matter is not corrected.
6. NO PERMIT
(h)If, during the normal course of duties, an
inspector finds a pool installed and there is no
record of a permit issued for the pool enclosure,
the inspector shall notify the owner in writing of
the violation of the by-law. The pool enclosure
shall be inspected thoroughly forthwith to
determine compliance. Any deficiencies found
shall be identified in writing to the owner, who
shall be given 24 hours to correct any
deficiencies with at least temporary fencing,
after which the inspector shall prepare for court
charges if the matter of the deficiencies are not
corrected. The owner shall be granted one week to
submit an application for a permit, with
appropriate follow up by the inspector.
COMPLAINTS
(i)Upon receipt of a bona fide complaint, an inspector
shall attend to a property where it is alleged
that a pool enclosure has not been provided or
maintained.
(j)If, upon inspection, it is found that the pool
enclosure does not meet the requirements of the
pool enclosure by-law, such deficiencies shall be
identified in writing to the owner, who shall be
given no more than 1 week to correct the matter.
(k)Unless notified earlier, the inspector shall return
to the property after 1 week to confirm
satisfactory compliance of the pool fence
enclosure. If the enclosure remains incomplete,
the inspector shall prepare for court charges as
per the Provincial Offences Act.
PERFORMING WORK
(l)If for any reason, a pool enclosure is not
adequately secured, the inspector may, after
reasonable notice, enter upon the lands with a
contractor to perform such work as necessary to
restore or complete the requirements for a safe
pool enclosure. All charges shall be invoiced to
the property owner or collected in a like-manner
as taxes, as authorized by Section 325 of the
Municipal Act.

Uni-stone Pavers and Polymeric Sand

Exterior

Uni-stone Pavers and Polymeric Sand.  Polymeric sand is what professional uni-stone installers use to ensure a filler that is not bothered by the erosion of seasonal weather.

Wnen you open up a bag of polymeric sand and you find it looks like ordinary, free-flowing sand, but it is how it behaves when you put it down. But unlike regular sand, the polymeric product firms up in reaction with water and forms a barrier unlike using normal sand.

Installing polymeric sand is not that complicated and if you follow the instructions below will be fairly simple.

When you are installing polymeric sand in a new paving brick installation? There’s nothing different you need to do while putting the bricks down. If you’ve got an existing pathway that had ordinary sand applied originally, then you need to clean out all the gaps of old sand with a pressure washer. You must create a brand new installation, minus the laying of pavers of course. The main thing to understand about polymeric sand is that it must be installed on a dry surface.

Polymeric sand is activated by water, and it turns quite liquid even with a little moisture. You need dry conditions, with no chance of rain for a day. Check with weather man before starting project.

Spreading polymeric sand begins the same as with normal paver installation. Pour a thin layer as smoothly as possible over the whole pathway surface, then use a stiff-bristled push broom to spread the sand around and begin working it into the gaps.

The trick is to use a a gas-powered vibrator afterwards. This vibrates the sand deep down into the gaps, an essential part of any long-lasting installation.

The broom alone might seem to do a good job, but don’t be fooled. It actually leaves behind hidden gaps that lead to sand collapse later. Don’t skip the compactor.

With all brick gaps fully filled with sand, you’re about to face the most important part of the job: pre-activation cleaning. Since poly sand turns goopy when wet, you must have the surface of the bricks completely and absolutely clean before applying water.

Any sand remaining on the surface will mar the appearance of the brick, so be diligent. Use a soft-bristled broom to move all remaining surface sand into the gaps, going over the surface at least twice, just to make sure.

Now it’s time to activate the sand, and success here requires finesse. You need to gently apply a fine spray of water to moisten the sand, but not so much that it moves any sand up and out of the brick gaps.

It’s a balancing act, so be careful. After an initial misting, let the sand begin to firm up for 15 or 20 minutes, then add more water while watching carefully. Before you’re done, you need to apply enough water to wet the entire depth of sand you’ve added. This could take three or four or five wettings, just be careful.

The danger is that you apply water too fast, causing surface sand to be washed out of the gaps and onto the bricks. When you think you’ve wet the surface enough, take a framing nail or three-inch deck screw and burrow down into a joint gap just to be sure. If it’s not wet all the way, keep up the misting and pausing cycle.

Polymeric sand isn’t foolproof, and it doesn’t eliminate all the problems encountered with regular sand, but it’s still more than worthwhile. Use it to get the most from your paving brick installation and you’ll spend more time enjoying the look, without fretting that ordinary sand washes away so easily.

Posts Related to Uni-stone Pavers and Polymeric Sand

Masonry Brick and Moisture – Weather Proofing Techniques

Exterior

Masonry Brick and Moisture – Weather Proofing Techniques

The enduring strength, beauty and performance of a brick wall assembly is critically dependent on three components: design, workmanship and materials. If even one of these factors has not been diligently applied, integrity of the wall assembly is compromised.
The single most important factor to be understood and designed for in the Canadian climate is moisture control. Seldom does failure of a brick wall assembly occur without the presence of an excessive moisture load. Excessive is defined as being more moisture than can dry out of the assembly before that assembly freezes due to ambient temperature conditions. The trapped moisture will freeze and thaw and may cause deterioration known as spalling, in which part of the brick surface may break away.

Examples of Extra Severe Weathering Conditions:
Houses and buildings built within the spray zone of lakes
Buildings constructed in open areas with little or no protection from the wind by other buildings or trees
Upper floors of high rise buildings
It should be noted that certain parts of masonry structures are more vulnerable to the weather than others. These include parapet walls surmounting multi-storey buildings, freestanding walls, chimneys and walls put in contact with the garden grade level. In these adverse conditions, it is even more critical to ensure the correct use of materials, details and workmanship.

Chimney Cap Construction DetailsChimney Construction

Chimneys
The two most critical components of chimney construction are workmanship and a proper chimney cap. (See Fig. A for proper chimney cap details.)
Ensure that the chimney cap installed has an overhang of no less than 50mm (2″), and a drip groove (as shown in Fig. A) to shed water past the plane of the four chimney walls. Ensure that all joints are properly caulked.

Note: The through wall flashing detail shown in Fig. A applies to all masonry walls which traverse the roof line. i.e. where an exterior wall (or chimney) above the roofline is supported below the roofline by masonry, through wall flashing must be installed at the roofline to direct <a href=”http://www.napoleon.cc/cottage/”target=”_blank”rel=”external”title=”Midland Cottage Inspections” >water to the exterior.

Stone Sill Construction DetailProper Window Sill Construction

Window Sills
Important details for window sills:

Minimize the number of joints
Ensure minimum slope of 15″ to sill
Provide drip groove
Provide adequate flashing including end dams
Caulk all joints
The most fail-safe detail is to choose a stone, concrete or metal sill material that is tailored to the window opening and has a slope on top and a drip groove/lip on the under side. (See Fig. B)

Brick At Grade, Base Flashing and WeepholesMasonry Brick At Grade

Brick at Grade
Brick built on grade can result in the ingress of moisture, either from direct water run-off or the build-up of snow. Excess moisture present in the brick during the freeze-thaw cycles can result in spalling of the brick. The Ontario Building Code and good building practice dictate that brickwork should be a minimum of 150mm (6″) above grade. This requirement also applies to any level surface such as paving, patio deck or balcony. Furthermore, the ground should be contoured so that the water drains away from the wall. (See Fig. C)

Base flashing should be installed below the bottom course of masonry to prevent the upward migration of moisture due to capillary action (rising damp).

Always slope the grade away from the building. The masonry wall assembly should begin no less than 150mm (6″) above the grade line.
Grade should be measured from the top of the finished surface. This means that grade should be considered to be the top of a wooden deck, a stair tread, a poured concrete balcony, or any sort of finished surface, be it paving brick, gravel, asphalt, or the earth in a planting bed.

Weep holes – Brick Veneer Walls
Brick veneer walls, if correctly installed, provide the best protection from rain penetration. However, often critical details are omitted, causing the wall to become ineffective and water to penetrate past the wall. Two of the details often omitted are weep holes and flashing. (See Fig. C)

This detail should be at the base of all brick veneer walls, on top of windows, doors and other openings into brick veneer walls.

Coping To Freestanding WallsCoping To Freestanding Walls

Parapet Walls and Columns
The top of parapet walls, freestanding walls and columns are subjected to the same severe weathering as chimneys. Hence, they also require special attention to details. Figure D shows a typical cap for a wall or column. A stone or pre-cast concrete cap with an overhang and drip groove is recommended.

Roof Overhang by the Barrie Home InspectorThe minimum overhang should be 50mm (2″) with the placement of the drip groove 25mm (1″) from the masonry wall.

Planters and Retaining Walls
Brick walls used to retain soil, in planters, or other applications will be subjected to moisture ingress from the soil. The brick wall should be constructed with a concrete block backup wall with a cavity (airspace), base flashing and weep holes to permit moisture to drain away from the masonry. The interior side of the concrete block backup should be coated with a waterproof material to prevent moisture transmission through the wall. (See overleaf Fig. E)

Drainage should be provided at the base of the planter box to prevent the build up of hydrostatic pressure.

Research shows that even a modest roof overhang significantly reduces the amount of water reaching the wall.

Eaves troughs (gutters) and down pipes should be correctly sized and positioned to remove rainwater without undue overflow onto the walls.

WP-WallCaulking and Sealants
Caulking of joints is critical to prevent the ingress of moisture. However, with time and weathering, caulking materials will deteriorate and become ineffective. Caulking materials should be inspected regularly and replaced when necessary.

Water Repellent & Colourless Coatings
The Brick Institute of America (BIA) warns that in climates that experience freeze-thaw cycling, colourless coatings may adversely affect the durability of brick masonry by inhibiting moisture evaporation. The use of masonry water repellents is suggested sometimes as a possible solution to leaky walls. Before these products are considered, construction details need to be checked for integrity. Items contributing to leakage include ineffective flashing at the base of the wall, absence of a clear cavity and weep holes, unfilled head joints or cracks at the mortar/brick interface. Air leakage from the interior can be a major cause of moisture on the inside of the brick veneer.

Gas Furnace Outlet
The vents from gas furnaces and other appliances should be directed to discharge moisten laden air away from the masonry.

Workmanship
Beside the use of correct materials and proper design details, good workmanship is required to ensure successful performance of masonry.

Joint Profiles
The tooling and profile of a mortar joint has significant effect on the ability of the masonry to resist moisture penetration. Different joint profiles are shown in Fig. G.

Raked joints are popular because they accentuate the aesthetics of the brick. However, they are not recommended for exterior masonry work in the Canadian climate. Raked joints provide a ledge for moisture ingress and retention.

Concave tooled joints are recommended for all exterior masonry. Joints should be tooled when the mortar is thumb print hard. The jointing tool should be larger than the joint width; i.e. use a 12mm diameter tool for a 10mm joint width. The tooling process smoothes and compresses the joint to promote superior water repellency.

Summary
If moisture entry and retention in the brickwork is avoided by the application of well considered design, quality workmanship and the correct choice of component materials, the enduring strength, beauty and performance of your masonry wall assembly should always be a source of pride to you.

Please consider the information listed in these technical notes as advisory highlights only. There are certainly many more conditions to be considered in the design and construction of a masonry wall assembly in a severe weather climate zone such as the Great Lakes region. Those considerations are best left to your design and construction professionals.

REFERENCES:
Building for the Future: A Guide to Masonry Construction prepared by the National Association of Brick Distributors, Ontario Chapter 1993
BIA Technical Note on Brick Water Resistance Construction, Series 6A, 7, 7A, 7B, 7C, 7D, 7E
Brick Institute of America, Reston, Virginia

Fig. A
Chimney Cap Construction Details
Click here for Proper Chimney Construction

Fig. B
Stone Sill Construction Detail

Fig. C
Brick At Grade, Base Flashing and Weepholes

Fig. D
Coping To Freestanding Walls

Fig. E
Roof Overhang

Fig. F
Planter and Retaining Walls

Fig. G
Mortar Joint Profiles

EIFS – Exterior Insulation Finish Systems

Exterior

EIFS – Exterior Insulation Finish Systems

History of system

Exterior Insulation and Finish Systems is an insulating, decorative and protective finish system for exterior walls that can be installed on any type of construction. It is the only exterior wall covering that insulates and provides weather protection in a selection of shapes, colors, and textures that can replicate almost any architectural style or finish material, or stand by itself as an architectural finish. While similar in appearance to stucco, EIFS is an exterior cladding system that consists of components and installation requirements very different from traditional stucco (see Figure 1 – Sectional View of a Typical EIFS Application). EIFS also requires very different care and maintenance than its “look-alike” cousin, traditional stucco.

In 1952, two significant developments took place that led to the development of EIFS in Europe. The first patent was granted for expanded polystyrene (EPS) insulation board and the first synthetic plaster, an organic plaster using water based binders, was developed. The use of EPS and synthetic resin materials together began in the late 1950s and in 1963

EIFS was marketed in Europe. EIFS answered a need in the European construction market for a material that could insulate older masonry structures and enhance their appearance. In Europe, the use of EIFS on stud/sheathing walls is rare, as most European buildings have solid masonry walls. European concrete or masonry substrates can function as exterior walls without the EIFS. European EIFS tend to have thicker and coarser finishes, which provides for better <a href=”http://www.napoleon.cc/cottage/”target=”_blank”rel=”external”title=”Midland Cottage Inspections” >waterproofing. The systems used in Europe also feature the use of less portland cement and a higher resin content in the base coat, giving the system more flexibility and water resistance, albeit at greater cost.
The technology for EIFS was transferred to the United States in 1969, when Rhode Island-based Dryvit Systems, Inc. introduced EIFS in the U.S. During the oil crisis of the early and mid 1970s, EIFS becomes popular with energy-conscientious builders and buyers, who sometimes see energy bills halved. EIFS began by being used almost exclusively in the commercial building market, and was only gradually adopted for use in homes. By 1980, EIFS cladding accounted for one-half of 1 percent of the residential housing market, and by 1995 nearly 200 million square feet (18,580,608 m2) of EIFS were being installed annually on exterior walls in North America.

Also, in 1995, the industry suffered a setback when a number of EIFS clad homes in the Wilmington, North Carolina area were discovered with moisture damage behind the cladding. The damage was caused by poor construction detailing and practices, principally, the omission or improper installation of flashing in violation of minimum standards of construction set forth in building codes. A federal and several state class action lawsuits were filed, only one of which was certified (in the State of North Carolina). The North Carolina class action was settled by manufacturers. While the original problems were discovered first in North Carolina, it is really a nationwide issue.

In March of 1999, the NAHB (National Association of Home Builders) Research Center listed the most common problems they found that were associated with water intrusion in EIF systems as being:
Windows, Doors, Electrical Outlets
Roof Flashings
Deck Flashings
Below Grade Installation
Projections, Vents

The NAHB commissioned study went on to state:
“. . .homes surveyed ages two to six are experiencing structural damage due to excessive moisture buildup within walls. The cause of the moisture accumulation is rain water intrusion from a combination of factors including: improper sealing at joints and around windows, doors, and other penetrations; improperly sloped horizontal EIFS surfaces; inadequate flashing at roof lines, dormers, decks, etc.; and window frames that leak into wall cavities.”

What Is EIFS (Exterior Insulated Finish Systems)?
While giving the appearance of stucco, EIFS is actually a multi-layered wall system that consists of the following components:
Insulation Board – Made of polystyrene (or similar material), which is secured to the exterior wall surface.
Base Coat – Applied on top of the insulation and reinforced with fiber mesh.
Finish Coat – Applied on top of the base coat giving a durable, crack-resistant finish.
The first half of the acronym, “Exterior Insulation” is derived from the fact that the first component installed is a foam insulation board. The foam board is mechanically and/or adhesively attached to the exterior sheathing of the home. In this respect the foam board serves as an exterior insulating layer. Over this foam board is applied a synthetic base-coat material in which is embedded a fiberglass reinforcing mesh. This is typically referred to as the “base-coat”. On top of the base coat is applied one or more “finish coats”. This is the exterior layer that gives the product its stucco-like appearance. Hence the second part of the acronym “Finish Systems“.
EFIS provides many advantages that other exterior finishes and sidings do not. Chief among these are superior energy efficiency and great design flexibility. As a matter of fact, studies have shown that EIFS can reduce the air infiltration in a wall by as much as 55%, when compared to standard brick or wood construction. One should bear in mind that an EIFS system is a non-structural component of the wall. In other words, it is not designed to be weight bearing.

Most early EIFS employed a face seal approach to rainwater management, and was thus very susceptible to failure. Because of these early problems, most EIFS now incorporates some sort of a drainage plane to allow for moisture drainage. Newer installations incorporating this design could be considered concealed barrier systems. However, due to the nature of the product and the realities of the construction process, even newer drainage EIFS systems can experience problems:

“Short-cuts” are often taken in the application of EIFS systems, causing the primary face seal moisture barrier to fail and leak (lack of proper caulking, flashing, etc.).
The integrity of the second line of defense is highly dependent on correct detailing by the designer and proper installation by the builder and his subcontractors. Very often, flashings, housewrap, windows, doors, etc., are improperly installed.
EIFS does not breathe and will not allow trapped moisture to evaporate easily, which can cause great damage over time.
Because EIFS (Exterior Insulated Finish Systems) rely on a perfect seal at the exterior surfaces, they are susceptible to entrapment of moisture inside the system. Water can enter the system where seams and seals fail, where moisture migrates from inside the building and where punched openings (windows, doors, etc.) are present. Because of the low vapor permeability of the finish, water trapped behind the EIFS cannot dry out quickly toward the outside of the wall (see figure 1). Depending on the rest of the wall system design and installation, there may also be limited drying potential to the inside. Limited drying potential in combination with high leakage potential can lead to moisture buildup inside the wall, and eventually to mold growth and structural decay.

Why Most EIFS Have Failures
Since EIFS clearly provides many advantages, what’s the big deal? The basic problem begins with the erroneous belief that homes can be made to be “water proof”. The simple truth is, they cannot. For example, even when applied by professional caulking applicators, All caulk joints will eventually fail. . . .even those caulk joints made under laboratory conditions. No residential windows are fully waterproof. . . .they are designed and manufactured to a water-resistant standard. Some water will always find a way in. When it can’t get out, you have a problem.

Why Can EIFS Be A Problem?

Homes clad with EIFS (Exterior Insulation and Finish Systems) a.k.a. synthetic stucco have a very strong tendency to retain moisture between the sheathing of the home and the finish system. The design of EIFS, unlike other systems (brick, stone, siding, etc.), does not allow the moisture to drain out. The problem is water intrusion and entrapment in the wall cavities. The moisture can sit in contact with the sheathing for a prolonged period and rotting may result. Damage can be serious.

While a brick or stone wall will contain an internal drainage plane behind it and weep holes along the bottom edge to allow for water drainage, moisture intruding into the EIFS wall cavities is more damaging because it cannot readily escape back out through the waterproof EIFS exterior as quickly as it can through brick veneer, stone, or cement stucco, leaving the internal sheathing and wood framing vulnerable to rot and decay.

Successful installation of EIFS depends upon keeping water out of the wall cavities. Consequently, in an effort to keep the water out, an industry-wide installation standard was developed that details installation procedures to be followed. In conjunction with this, the EIFS manufacturers then trained and certified applicators to install their products and supplied them with materials which met specification standards.
But, here is where the system begins to break down, because unfortunately, the manufacturers failed to take into account the realities of residential construction:

Barrier type systems rarely work. The EIFS external barrier system depends upon a perfect external water barrier to keep water out of wall cavities. Since the outer shell is the only barrier against water intrusion, it must form a “perfect” barrier at “all times.” When there are so many entry points for water intrusion in the exterior shell of a house, this is an unrealistic expectation.

Lack of inspection and enforcement of standards. Most manufacturers, unrealistically expected that the building industry on its own (including public inspection departments), would maintain industry standards & specifications, provide oversight, and provide inspection of the EIF system as it was installed. Everyone thought that someone else was minding the store, consequently, the vast majority of EIFS applications nation-wide, have never been inspected. Compounding this problem is the fact that the EIFS manufacturers have failed to insist upon the very standards they helped originate, be met by the applicators they supply materials to.

Evolution of application guidelines. Another consideration is that guidelines for EIFS installation have been evolving over the years. An example of this is below grade termination of the EIFS. While not allowed by building code, early on, it was allowed by some manufacturers specifications. However, due to problems with this type of application nation-wide, in 1996 Dryvit Corp (one of the largest EIFS manufacturers), changed all of its specifications to require an 8 inch separation be left between the EIFS and soil (termite problems in the South & carpenter ants in the North, moisture wicking up into the EIFS, frost damage, inability of the EIFS to drain water away if it is buried, etc.). Unfortunately, this type of new information has been slow to “trickle down” through the information chain (from the manufacturer è distributor è applicator). Some distributors even claim their insulation-board doesn’t wick water, and consequently can be placed below grade (experience shows that it does, however).

Leaks and damage are hidden from view. There are few, if any, external visual clues to an early leakage problem. As a matter of fact, it can take years for an intermittent leak to evidence itself as damaged sheathing, window leaks, rotted framing, mold growth, etc. Many insurance companies, builders, and applicators may not take a leakage problem seriously, until they can actually see the damage. The reason for this “mind-set” is understandable, because no one wants to be responsible to pay for repairs that may be unnecessary. Unfortunately, by waiting until a problem is noticeable as visible damage, the word repair can become the word replace. What was once a relatively inexpensive repair has become a very expensive replacement.

Problems With Secondary Weather Barrier and the Inability To Drain

Most wood-framed residential homes require a secondary weather barrier to be placed over the sheathing before the exterior cladding is installed. This barrier protects the home from incidental water intrusion and allows moisture to exit the home by traveling on top of the barrier, keeping the sheathing and structural members relatively dry. Eliminating a barrier and rendering a substrate unprotected invites trouble, no matter what type of exterior cladding is used.

Due to the design of the EIFS, a majority of EIFS clad homes built before 1997 do not have a secondary weather barrier placed over the exterior sheathing. A large number of EIFS applications use an adhesive to fasten the two-foot by four-foot insulation boards to the sheathing. If an adhesive is used to hold the insulation boards to the sheathing, then a secondary weather barrier cannot be used. Any water that infiltrates the system will become trapped between the EIFS and the sheathing.

It is estimated that 95 percent of homes clad with EIFS in the United States are barrier-type. Most barrier EIFS projects are adhesively applied because it is less time consuming to install. Adhesively applied EIFS prohibits a vapor barrier from being installed. It also prevents many self-flashing windows from being installed properly since the sill flashing must be cut off to accommodate the adhesively attached foam board.

EIFS homes built before 1997 have a greater chance for moisture intrusion problems. Newer EIFS homes built since 1997 using “drainage EIFS” may have a reduced chance of moisture intrusion, but are not immune.

Lack Of Applicator Training

EIFS must be purchased from an EIFS distributor. The manufacturer or distributor trains applicators and issues certificates stating that the applicator has been properly trained. It is the responsibility of the distributor to ensure that EIFS is sold only to those certified applicators.

Not Following Manufactures Installation Guidelines

Deviations from Industry Standard guidelines during installation, is likely the largest contributor to EIFS cladding problems. EIFS application requires the strict observance of manufacturer recommended specifications and guidelines, and involves meticulous workmanship and attention to detail. When improperly applied, the EIFS cladding does not perform its intended function and can allow water to infiltrate behind the cladding, where it becomes trapped.

Due to the lessons learned during the early years of the industry, around 1996 set of “Installation Details” were developed by EIMA (EIFS Industry Members Association), that have since become the industry installation standard. Each manufacturer may have its own specific requirements as well. EIFS Installation Details are procedures outlined by the EIFS manufacturer that provide guidance to the architect, builder and applicator as to the proper installation of the product. All EIFS manufacturers have details and procedures that builders and applicators are expected to follow. Installation details are typically very similar among EIFS products and EIFS manufacturers, but there are differences.

A common misconception among some applicators is that the “Installation Details” are designed for specific parts of the country, exposed to certain weather conditions, and not to them. This couldn’t be farther from the truth, and has led to some expensive repairs having to be made. The Installation Details were designed to be used industry-wide, and are applicable whether the installation is in a northern cold climate, or southern warm climate. One should never make the mistake of dismissing as being insignificant, even some of the smaller deviations from the accepted industry installation standards. Unfortunately, there is a long history of applicators having done this in the past. . .to their great regret later on when the bills come due to pay for replacing the entire exterior. When installed properly, many EIF systems can perform well. However, EIFS is a very unforgiving product and even the smallest short-cut in installation standards and quality of components, can lead to big problems down the road.

The problem we face now is, sometimes an individual contractor may fail to fully follow the manufacturer’s installation guidelines. Often times only a portion of the guidelines are followed, materials from different manufacturers are inter-mixed, etc. This can allow moisture into the wall system. Once the moisture is in it can’t get out, which can lead to wood rot. Some of the more common installation “short-cuts” are listed below:
Foam insulation placed below grade. Prior to recent building code changes, the foam board insulation used in EIFS was placed on the wall below grade. It was discovered that foam in contact with the ground causes conditions conducive to pest infestations (termites, carpenter ants, etc.). With EIFS-clad homes, the visible evidence of infestation is blocked from view by the exterior siding. In fact, the exterior siding typically looks pristine and shows no signs of any problems. Behind the EIFS cladding, pests can live in a protected environment and then establish themselves inside the home.

Another problem with placing the foam below grade is the ability of water vapor to migrate upwards through the foam. When the temperature rises at the transition from masonry to wood, the water vapor condenses and causes water to settle on the sill plates and exterior band joist. If this water does not evaporate quickly, wood rot can set in and decay the structural members of the home.

Improperly flashed & caulked windows. Window leaks account for the majority of water damage in EIFS houses. The EIFS itself isn’t usually leaking; instead, water is entering between the window and the EIFS, or the window itself is leaking water. The solution requires a window flashing that works, as well as a correctly detailed joint between the window and the EIFS wall. Wherever a window, a door, or an electrical or plumbing fixture interrupts the EIFS surface, a proper joint must be constructed, that integrates a reliable flashing into the secondary weather barrier.

A very important component that is often missing in window detailing is the backer rod. The backer rod serves two functions: First, it prevents the caulk bead from adhering to the back of the joint, allowing the caulk to flex in response to thermal expansion and contraction and other building movements. If the backer rod is omitted, the caulk will adhere to the back of the joint as well as the sides, limiting its ability to stretch and guaranteeing premature failure. Second, it controls the thickness of the finished application of caulk, which should ideally be about half as thick as it is wide. More often than not, though, the caulk and backer rod are never applied at all. It is important to keep in mind that no residential windows are waterproof, they are designed and manufactured to a water-resistant standard. The very best windows allow some water into the wall cavity through their own joints, and “construction grade” windows may leak a great deal. The quality of windows installed with the EIFS is directly related to the amount of water that will infiltrate. For example, wood windows perform poorly, while welded seam vinyl windows perform substantially better than other window types. EIFS homes cannot be made totally “water proof”, and windows will leak. Regardless of how well the backer rod/sealant method seals the joints between window and the edge of the EIFS wall, windows will leak at some point (even those caulk joints made under laboratory conditions by EIFS industry engineers will eventually fail).

Flashings missing or improperly installed. are an important element in protecting your house from leakage, and should be utilized to properly direct water away from the structure. Some of the more common locations where they are required are: deck ledger boards, kick-out flashing at roof / wall intersections, at window and door heads, headers and other horizontal surfaces, etc. All too often, flashings are not installed, or installed improperly.

Roof termination. EIFS should be held off of roof a minimum of two (2) inches and backwrapped.

Expansion joints at dissimilar materials. Expansion-joints should be used where EIFS terminates, or meets a dissimilar material. The typical expansion joint is a flexible, watertight joint utilizing, backer rod and sealant. Expansion joints are typically 1/2 inch in width.

Backwrapping. Where the foam substrate terminates, it should be backwrapped, in order to provide for proper protection of the foam. Backwrapping also provides for improved attachment of the substrate to the sheathing.

Horizontal Surfaces: Trim Bands Quoins. There should be no horizontal (flat) surfaces. All surfaces should slope away from the structure.

Shared Responsibilities

An EIFS applicator is responsible for the application process-attaching the foam insulation to the substrate, applying the fiberglass mesh, embedding the fiberglass mesh with base coat and applying a finish coat. EIFS installers have little control over construction details designed to prevent water intrusion into wall cavities from roofs, even including those details which are required by some state building codes and by the specifications of the EIFS manufacturers. Many details outlined by manufacturers require the services of other tradesmen. A typical EIFS applicator does not install backer rods and sealant, but should install the EIFS so that it is possible to install these critical components. The builder is responsible for subcontracting the backer rod and sealant components. Flashing around windows, doors, decks, chimneys and roofs is the responsibility of the builder and his roofer. Unless the builder required the roofing subcontractor to install step flashing and (EIFS required) kickouts, it probably was not done.

The applicator should recognize improper flashing and not continue the application process until the problem is corrected. Unfortunately, this also slows down the overall building process. . .costing the home builder extra money. It doesn’t take an applicator long to recognize that an unhappy home builder may NOT call him to bid on the next project. According to the National Association of Home Builders Research Center,

Pressure Differentials

EIFS is basically a face-sealed system. The system relies on a water and airtight seal over the entire wall system. When this is achieved, an air cavity is created between the exterior sheathing behind the EIFS and the interior of the home. Positive air pressure changes caused by wind on the exterior of the home create a negative pressure in the wall cavity. Any breach in the barrier EIFS system will force air through that opening and into the wall cavity. When rain is introduced in this scenario, water (in its liquid form or as vapor), not air, is forced through any breach in the barrier EIFS. Many researchers indicate that the difference in pressure differentials is responsible for the majority of the water intrusions in face-sealed systems. Other wall claddings such as brick, lap siding, shingles and traditional stucco allow air to infiltrate, thus rendering the positive force applied to the building to be balanced.

Lack of Care and Maintenance

The beautiful architectural designs made possible by synthetic stucco systems make these homes very desirable and marketable. It is critical, however, to carefully maintain these systems to prevent water intrusion and deterioration. It is very important that the six following steps be followed to protect your investment.

Home Owners Responsibilities

Annually inspect all sealant around windows, doors, penetrations through the EIFS, EIFS transitions (such as EIFS to brick, EIFS to stone), and stucco terminations (at roof, at grade, at patios or walkways). Arrange for prompt repair of any areas of caulk that is split, cracking, crazing or is losing adhesion. Also, promptly repair any cracks in the EIFS.

Any leaks, cracks, areas of discoloration, mold or mildew should be promptly investigated by a certified EIFS inspector. Repairs should be proper and prompt.

Anytime you make a penetration through the EIFS such as to mount a satellite dish, add shutters, new wiring, cables, plumbing, security systems, etc., the perimeters must be sealed with a quality sealant approved for EIFS.

Modifications, additions or renovations (including roof replacement) to the structure of any kind should be inspected by a qualified EIFS inspector to ensure waterproofing of critical details is properly performed.

Periodic cleaning of the surface is necessary to maintain its appearance and prevent permanent staining. Pressure cleaning equipment must be calibrated to the EIFS manufacturer’s recommended pressure level (low) to prevent damage. Select a firm with experience in cleaning these EIFS systems. There are no products that are totally maintenance free, and EIFS is no different.

Maintenance Schedule. I would recommend setting up a maintenance schedule with an EIFS specialist to carefully inspect the exterior for damage, about every 1-2 years. Any needed repairs should be made at that time (usually just re-caulking, etc.). EIFS is the type of system where it is very important to catch any problems early-on.

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