Barrie Home Inspector

Home Maintenance and Tips for Home Owners

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Inspecting Your Homes Attic

Home Inspection

Inspecting Your Homes Attic.  There should be an access opening to all attic spaces that exceed 30 square feet and have a vertical height of 30 inches or more. The rough-framed opening should be at least 22 inches by 30 inches. It should be located in a hallway or other readily accessible location. An attic access that is located in a clothes closet is often inaccessible due to permanent shelving installed. There should be headroom that is a minimum of 30 inches above the attic access. In some places “attic” is used more specifically to apply to lofts which have boarded floors and ceilings, and usually windows or skylights, and then “loft” is kept to mean a dark, unboarded roof-space which lacks these features.

Knee walls are vertical walls with an attic space directly behind them. You’ll typically find them in houses with finished attic spaces and dormer windows, as with 1-story houses. There are a couple of ways that you may see a knee wall insulated. The most important areas and most overlooked areas to insulate are the open joist ends below the knee wall. Air sealing reduces heat flow from air movement, or convection. Air sealing prevents water vapor in the air from entering the wall assembly. In a 100-square-foot wall, 1 cup of water can diffuse through drywall without a vapor diffusion retarder in a single year. Fifty cups can enter through a -inch round hole. Air sealing is 10 to 100 times as important as installing a vapor diffusion retarder.

Insulation performance is measured by R-value – its ability to resist heat flow. Higher R-values mean more insulating power. Different R-values are recommended for walls, attics, basements and crawlspaces, depending on your area of the country. Insulation works best when air is not moving through or around it. So it is very important to seal air leaks before installing insulation to ensure that you get the best performance from the insulation.

If you hear noises in your attic and you are unsure as to the source, it’s relatively easy to determine if it’s squirrels – squirrels are active during the daytime. Thus, if you hear scampering and scurrying noises during the day, it’s likely squirrels. Other attic-dwelling critters, such as rats and mice, bats, flying squirrels, opossums, and raccoons, are nocturnal, so they mostly only make noise at night. Flying squirrels are also nocturnal. If the noises happen at night, there’s a strong chance of mice or rats.

The squirrel often finds bedding material by shredding roof or wall paper, and shredding vent ducts and insulation around pipes. The biggest problem is that they chew, and I’ve seen dozens of cases in which they’ve chewed electrical wires. It’s estimated that half of house fires of unknown origin are due to rodent chewing on electrical wires.

Most people will have no reaction at all when exposed to molds. Allergic reactions, similar to common pollen or animal allergies, are the most common health effects for individuals sensitive to molds. Flu-like symptoms and skin rash may occur. Molds may also aggravate asthma. Fungal infections from building-associated molds may occur in people with serious immune disease but this is very rare. Most symptoms are temporary and eliminated by correcting the mold problem in the home.

When your home is inspected by a Professional Home Inspector they are checking for proper ventilation, presence of moisture, proper insulation, mould, proper structural support and signs of rodent or animal entry. Bat feces or vermiculite insulation removal can run into ten thousand dollars or more for removal. Compared to the cost of hiring the Barrie Home Inspector for $200.00 this is a really cost effective way to protect yourself and ensure Peace of Mind on your next Real Estate purchase.

 

Siding and Cladding for Your Home

Exterior

Siding and Cladding for Your Home.  Nothing will impact the appearance of your home more then the siding that’s on it. When shopping for siding you may want to consider what suits your lifestyle as well as the style of your home. Siding is the outer covering ( A.K.A. Cladding ) of a home meant to shed water and protect the home from the effects of weather but it may also act as a key element in the aesthetic beauty of the structure and directly influence its property value. Here are a few types of siding you may want to consider :

Stucco: Traditional stucco is cement combined with water and inert materials such as sand and lime but many homes built after the 50’s may resemble stucco but they actually use a variety of synthetic materials to achieve the same look. Stucco can be tinted to the colour you want and then the need to paint is gone forever. Synthetic stucco siding is lighter then the traditional and is more likely to suffer damage from a hard blow. It is often compromised of foam insulation board or cement panels screwed to the walls and the stucco is applied around it.

As a building material, stucco is a durable, attractive, and weather-resistant wall covering. It was traditionally used as both an interior and exterior finish applied in one or two thin layers directly over a solid masonry, brick or stone surface. The finish coat usually contained an integral color and was typically textured for appearance.
Stucco or render is a material made of an aggregate, a binder, and water. Stucco is applied wet and hardens to a very dense solid. It is used as a coating for walls and ceilings and for decoration. Stucco may be used to cover less visually appealing construction materials such as concrete, cinder block, or clay brick and adobe.

Stone veneer siding: Stone veneer is used as a decorative and protective covering for both interior and exterior applications. Stones like granite , limestone, slate, etc… are not only beautiful and hardly affected by weather , there also really expensive. That’s why precast stone veneers and facings became popular , the can look genuine ( depending on the product) and are also much more affordable the the real thing. The veneer is typically no thicker then 1″ and must weigh no more then 15 lbs per square foot to be installed without additional structural supports. These veneers can be made from natural stone by cutting the stone into thinner pieces or can be manufactured to look like stone.

Vinyl siding: Vinyl siding is one of if not the most popular type of siding. Unlike wood , this durable plastic will not rot or flake. Vinyl is available in several colour and it is said that it will never have to be painted. Advertisements say that vinyl siding is permanent and although it will last a very long time, it is less durable then wood or masonry. Heavy winds have been known to lift panels from the wall and windblown debris and strong hail can puncture it. New technologies are making this material stronger but the sheets may still crack if struck by a lawnmower or snow blower and unfortunately panels cannot be patched, they can only be replaced.

Engineered wood siding: Engineered wood siding is made from wood products and other materials. The panels can be molded to resemble traditional clapboards although it does not exactly look like real wood due to the fact that it’s textured grain is uniform. It does however look more natural then vinyl or aluminium siding. The benefit of engineered wood siding is that it offers all the advantages of of regular wood siding but in addition, it’s termite resistant and it will not rot,crack or split.

Having a Professional Home Inspector inspect your home prior to purchase will allow your new homes cladding to be inspected by a Professional like the Barrie Home Inspector. He will inspect for cladding of siding failure or poor installation techniques. Having all the information available is paramount prior to purchasing real estate, whether for investment or for your new home.

 

Home Inspection and Drywall Basics

Home Inspection

Home Inspection and Drywall Basics.  One of the most common deficiencies found during a home inspection is cracks in drywall or plaster. Cracks are common in plaster and drywall because they are brittle and rigid but are supported by materials that are not equally as rigid. Plaster and drywall are attached to flexible wood structures on foundations that rest upon compressible soil. Wood expands in humid weather and contracts in dry weather. Plaster and drywall are too rigid to move with the wood and therefore cracks will appear when there is any movement in the house or foundation.

Drywall installation involves nailing or screwing the sheets to the studs. Drywall installers cut the sheets to fit, and holes must be cut to accommodate pipes and mechanical equipment. The sheets are then fastened to the studs in a process called hanging. While most drywall installation used to use nails, screws are now the most common. Drywall is normally installed perpendicular to (across) the ceiling joists and wall studs, and the ceiling is always installed first.

Special moisture resistant drywall is used where excessive moisture may be a problem, such as bathrooms. In most cases, the moisture resistant drywall is green. Fire-rated drywall (Type X) is used where building codes require it. Typically in garages and under stairs.

After the drywall is installed, special metal corner strips (“corner bead”) is installed on all corners. This helps to protect the edges of the drywall and provide a nice straight finished edge. Joint compound (drywall mud) is used to finish all joints, nail heads and corners. In most cases, two or three coats of compound are needed at all taped joints. The texture coat is applied last.

The finished quality of your drywall will have a large impact on the beauty of your home. Most drywall cracks can be eliminated by just applying joint compound, but plaster cracks should be widened to 3/8 inch down to the lathe cleaning it out and wetting it with Elmer’s glue diluted 50% with water. If sections of plaster are disconnected from the lathe, they can be secured with “plaster buttons” prior to plastering the crack. Press fresh patching plaster, not joint compound, into the crack so that it is forced into the spaces between the lathes.
When plaster ceilings are full of cracks, apply drywall directly over the plaster and don’t bother patching. It’s just not worth the effort. Make sure the drywall is screwed to the floor joist or strapping and not just to the lathe.

Buildings built between 1930 and 1950 may have metal lathes under the plaster. You’ll notice when you try to hang a picture! You can distinguish between metal or wood lathe by hitting the wall. Metal lathe walls tend to be much stiffer.

This home maintenance tip and maintenance advice is brought to you by the Barrie Home Inspector and Orillia Home Inspector

Inspecting Your Home for Moisture

Home Inspection

Moisture and water vapor move in and out of a house in three ways: with air currents; by diffusion through materials; and by heat transfer. Of these three, air movement accounts for more than 98% of all water vapor movement in building cavities. Air naturally moves from a high-pressure area to a lower one by the easiest path possible-generally, through any available hole or crack in the building envelope. Moisture transfer by aircurrents is very fast-in the range of several hundred cubic feet of air per minute.Thus, to control air movement, a house should have any unintended air paths thoroughly and permanently sealed.

The laws of physics govern how moist air reacts within various temperature conditions. The study of the properties of moist air is technically referred to as “psychrometrics.” A psychrometric chart is used by professionals to determine at what temperature and moisture concentration water vapor begins to condense. This is called the “dew point.” By learning how to determine the dew point, you will better understand how to diagnose moisture problems in a house.Ventilating roofs in hot and humid conditions may add (rather than remove) moisture from attics and enclosed roof spaces. However, not ventilating roofs may void the asphalt-composition roofing manufacturer’s warranty, and slightly decrease the life expectancy of the roofing material due to increased temperature of the roof’s surface.

Recommended minimum widths for roof overhangs for one- and two-story wood-frame buildings are typically 12to 24 inches. For taller structures, larger roof overhangs are desirable. Alternatively, porch roofs and upperfloor overhangs can be used to protect lower-story walls.
Some jurisdictions do not regulate roof overhangs. Common problems with guttering are associated with installation and maintenance. Home inspectors can check ifproperly sized materials are being used, if guttering is appropriately sloped toward adequately sized downspouts,and if discharge is directed away from the building’s perimeter. Discharging water at inside building cornersshould be avoided. Some local storm water requirements may require special infiltration or filtration treatmentsof roof runoff.

The installation of even the most weather-resistant wall envelope system on a house does not diminish the need or proper installation, particularly with regard to flashing details at penetrations. In addition, the use of roof overhangs provides performance benefits for all cladding systems by reducing the moisture load experienced over time, and by allowing greater opportunities for walls to dry in the event of periodic wetting due to wind-driven rain. The life expectancy of various siding materials may vary widely, from 10 to as much as 100 years or more, depending on type of material, climate exposure, maintenance, and other factors.

water in basement by barrie home inspector

Face-Sealed: This type of WRE relies exclusively on the ability of the outer surface of the wall and joints around penetrations to deflect water and prevent it from penetrating the wall surface. If a defect in     the wall surface or joint detailing (such as caulk) exists or occurs over time, then water will penetrate and potentially accumulate in the wall, causing damage to any moisture-sensitive materials within the   assembly. One example of this type of system is known as conventional or barrier EIFS (exterior insulation finish system). However, building standards only allow the use of a new type of drainable EIFS      (i.e., drained cavity) on residential construction.

Assessing your buildings exposure can determine the amount of protection required. The terrain surrounding a building impacts its exposure to wind-driven rain. The ratio of roof overhang width to the   height of the protected wall below also alters the exposure of a building to weather and wind-driven rain. Long roof overhangs relative towall height effectively reduce the exposure. Similarly, increased shielding of the site against wind tends to reduce the effects of climate. Understanding the exposure in this manner can guide inspections of flashing details, the potential benefits of having greater overhangs installed, etc.

Many performance problems with windows and doors are related to installation issues. Installation directionsincluded with window and door units should be followed carefully. Home inspectors are not required to confirm compliance with a manufacturer’s recommendations. However, knowing the general guidelines and techniques for proper installation of windows and doors will assist the inspector in recognizing installation problems that may promote moisture intrusion.

Having your home inspected by a Certified Building Code Official will identify most common moisture issues and the Barrie Home Inspector is available to help identify and correct moisture issues in your home.

Barrie Home Inspector

Home Inspection

Barrie Home InspectorThe Barrie Home Inspector has been inspecting Commercial and Residential properties for over 15 years. As a Certified Building Code Official registered with the Ontario Building Officials Association his qualifications far exceed most Home Inspectors basic requirements.

Although many Home Inspection Companies advertise as the Barrie Home Inspector, only Roger Frost has the licensed name Barrie Home Inspector. The advantage of having experience in the business and the knowledge to make informed decisions.

The Barrie Home Inspector is a former home builder who was registered with HUDAC, which has now been replace with Tarion home building warranty program. Seven years as Project Review of all Renovations and New Construction with DND provided an unequaled opportunity to be involved with Project Design and Inspection on projects ranging from ,000′s of dollars to millions of dollar accommodation buildings.

Through out his career, Roger Frost has taken many specialized and building related courses that all are applicable to Commercial and Home inspections. Roger has inspected over 3,000 residential buildings and performed Commercial Building inspections from as far south as Simcoe Ontario to Huntville in the North.

Providing his client with the information they need to make an informed decision is the basis of the Barrie Home Inspector’s business. Having the knowledge to observe the deficiencies or possible failures of systems in not enough, being able to convey that to the client is of paramount importance. The Barrie Home Inspector’s report is precise and detailed, being broken down into individual building systems and areas. All deficiencies are photographed and included in a computerized report for the customers review.

We do not provide concrete financial replacement or repair costs because the nature of the contracting business is such that there are so many variables involved that a accurate price structure really does depend on the individual. We do make note and take pictures of every deficiency so that you will be able to discern the condition of the proposed purchase property.

Experience does matter and when you are making your next real estate investment, whether Commercial or Residential, ensure your Inspector has the qualifications and experience to make you an informed buyer.

Always remember Caveat Emptor – Buyer Beware

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