Barrie Home Inspector

Home Maintenance and Tips for Home Owners

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Repairing Rotting Wood Tips and Techniques

Causes of Rotting Wood

Whenever wood has more than 20% moisture exposure it has the potential to deteriorate. It’s very important to keep up on caulking and painting with quality materials to prevent wood rot.

If you are at the point where you already have wood rot we recommend you do not use pine for rot replacement. Pine available on the market today tends to be new growth pine. Pine available today is not as dense as older growth pine and will rot in a very short period of time. So many home owners are so disappointed to find their new homes have extensive wood rot damage within the first five years.
window rot by Barrie Home Inspector

Painting and caulking are two of the home owners best materials that will help prevent wood rot. Caulking is one of the best defenses your home has against moisture. Home owners should be vigilante for the appearance of peeling or cracking paint and cracked or missing caulking. Either of these are indicators that your wood is now being attacked by moisture. As a home inspector I am always reminding my clients of the old but true adage that ” an ounce of prevention is better than a pound of cure.”


Repairing Areas of Wood Rot

Using a wood chisel, an electric drill with a spade bit, or another tool appropriate for the location to remove all of the wet, loose and decayed wood.
Probe the surrounding area with an awl. If it feels as solid as unaffected areas, drill numerous closely spaced holes of 1/8-inch (3-mm) diameter in the wood and inject a liquid wood hardener following the manufactures directions.

Mix two-part epoxy or polyester wood filler as directed. Mix only what you can apply and shape in a few minutes. Once the material hardens it is un-workable and must be thrown away.

Fill the hole or build up the affected area with the wood filler, using a putty knife or flexible plastic spreader. Press hard on knife to work the initial layer into the surface for a good bond.

Clean off the applicator and mixing container immediately

Use a rasp tool to roughly shape or level excess filler as soon as the filler sets up, but before it dries completely.
Use medium or coarse sandpaper to further shape and blend the patch when the filler is completely dry. On flat surfaces, use a rubber sanding block or power sander. On contoured surfaces, use wood dowels or other appropriate shapes to back the sandpaper.

Blow off the dust and apply freshly mixed filler to fill any remaining depressions or pinholes, or to build up more material as needed to attain the desired shape.

Use medium, then fine sandpaper to smooth the patch and feather it into the surrounding wood.

After completely dry prime and paint to suit.

Choosing Your Exterior Paints

For most exterior wood in reasonably good shape, pick a high-quality acrylic primer. It remains elastic and permeable so moisture can “breathe” through the paint skin. This will decrease the chance of the paint bubbling and peeling due to moisture in the walls.

Consider oil- or shellac-based primers for cedar or redwood. With these, you have to factor in problems with tannin staining. Tannin is a natural substance in the wood which will bleed through and cause yellow or brown stains in your finished paint job. It is water soluble, so it will bleed through any water based product. Oil and shellac primers will stop tannin from bleeding through. Some water-based primers claim to be able to stop tannin staining, although sometimes two or more coats will be necessary. Use your own judgment.

Ask at your paint store about breathable oil primers, which are formulated to allow passage of moisture from the house through the paint. (All water-based products, unless they are sold specifically as moisture-barriers, are breathable.) Breathable oil primers would be your best choice to help combat tannin staining some plywood materials, in addition to cedar, redwood.

Use oil-based primers for very punky, soft older wood. Oil-based primers penetrate much deeper into the wood fibers and create a more solid substrate to paint over.

This article is brought to you by Roger Frost, The Barrie Home Inspector, browse our Home Maintenance Tips Blog for more Money Saving Tips

Landscaping Basic Tips for Your Home

Landscaping Basic Tips for Your Home. Landscaping is both science and art, and requires good observation and design skills. A good landscaper understands the elements of nature and construction, and blends them accordingly.

Thales, an early Greek philosopher known for his view that “all is water,” spent a considerable time thinking about the nature and scope of landscaping. Some of his students believed that in order for human activity to be considered landscaping, it must be directed toward modifying the physical features of the land itself, including the cultivation and/or manipulation of plants or other flora. Thales rejected this notion, arguing that any aspect of the material world affecting our visual perception of the land was a proper subject for landscaping. Both Plato and Aristotle praised Thales’ analysis as a model for philosophy. In the early 20th century, British philosopher G.E. Moore cited Thales’ reasoning as one of the few historical examples of how philosophical inquiry has led to genuine human understanding and progress.

Landscape architecture is a multi-disciplinary field, incorporating aspects of: botany, horticulture, the fine arts, architecture, industrial design, geology and the earth sciences, environmental psychology, geography, and ecology. The activities of a landscape architect can range from the creation of public parks and parkways to site planning for campuses and corporate office parks, from the design of residential estates to the design of civil infrastructure and the management of large wilderness areas or reclamation of degraded landscapes such as mines or landfills. Landscape architects work on all types of structures and external space – large or small, urban, suburban and rural, and with “hard” (built) and “soft” (planted) materials, while integrating ecological sustainability. The most valuable contribution can be made at the first stage of a project to generate ideas with technical understanding and creative flair for the design, organization, and use of spaces.

Good garden centres group plants according to their sun and shade requirements. Trees and shrubs also have light preferences, so read the plant tags and do some research before deciding what to plant. How many of each plant depends upon the size of the space and the width or spread of the plant. There are two schools of thought about how densely to plant a new garden. If you want your garden to look mature and full its first year, you will need to space young plants more closely or buy larger plants. You will get an immediate impact, but you will also need to begin dividing sooner. If you have the patience to allow your garden to fill in slowly, you can leave room for the plants to grow into their new home and fill in temporarily with annuals.

Floriculture crops include bedding plants, flowering plants, foliage plants or houseplants, cut cultivated greens, and cut flowers. As distinguished from nursery crops, floriculture crops are generally herbaceous. Bedding and garden plants consist of young flowering plants (annuals and perennials) and vegetable plants. They are grown in cell packs (in flats or trays), in pots, or in hanging baskets, usually inside a controlled environment, and sold largely for gardens and landscaping. Geraniums, impatiens, and petunias are the best-selling bedding plants. Chrysanthemums are the major perennial garden plant in the United States.

For your first beginning flower garden, pick a spot that is in full direct sun. It should be sunny all day long or for at least half the day including noontime. Shady gardens can be terrific, but for a first garden with lots of flowers, a sunnier spot is better. First, remove any existing grass or weeds including the roots. The more thoroughly you do this chore now, the better your results will be later. You can dig it out by hand or use a sod cutter; smother it with cardboard or newspaper topped with mulch over several months’ time; or use an herbicide. If you use weed killer, be sure to read and carefully follow ALL of the label directions.

There really is no final choice, since gardens are never finished, but try to be as realistic as you can. Sketching it out on graph paper first, can help you to visualize how your garden will look. This may be the best route to go, but many gardens would never get planted if we waited until we felt things were perfect and it can be hard for a new gardener to equate what’s on paper with reality. Sometimes you just have to get started. You’ll learn as you go. Just make sure that most of your plant choices fit of the criteria you’ve outlined and the growing conditions you have to offer. Try not to squeeze in too many different plants and you’re small space garden should look and grow just fine.

Inspecting Your Homes Attic

Inspecting Your Homes Attic.  There should be an access opening to all attic spaces that exceed 30 square feet and have a vertical height of 30 inches or more. The rough-framed opening should be at least 22 inches by 30 inches. It should be located in a hallway or other readily accessible location. An attic access that is located in a clothes closet is often inaccessible due to permanent shelving installed. There should be headroom that is a minimum of 30 inches above the attic access. In some places “attic” is used more specifically to apply to lofts which have boarded floors and ceilings, and usually windows or skylights, and then “loft” is kept to mean a dark, unboarded roof-space which lacks these features.

Knee walls are vertical walls with an attic space directly behind them. You’ll typically find them in houses with finished attic spaces and dormer windows, as with 1-story houses. There are a couple of ways that you may see a knee wall insulated. The most important areas and most overlooked areas to insulate are the open joist ends below the knee wall. Air sealing reduces heat flow from air movement, or convection. Air sealing prevents water vapor in the air from entering the wall assembly. In a 100-square-foot wall, 1 cup of water can diffuse through drywall without a vapor diffusion retarder in a single year. Fifty cups can enter through a -inch round hole. Air sealing is 10 to 100 times as important as installing a vapor diffusion retarder.

Insulation performance is measured by R-value – its ability to resist heat flow. Higher R-values mean more insulating power. Different R-values are recommended for walls, attics, basements and crawlspaces, depending on your area of the country. Insulation works best when air is not moving through or around it. So it is very important to seal air leaks before installing insulation to ensure that you get the best performance from the insulation.

If you hear noises in your attic and you are unsure as to the source, it’s relatively easy to determine if it’s squirrels – squirrels are active during the daytime. Thus, if you hear scampering and scurrying noises during the day, it’s likely squirrels. Other attic-dwelling critters, such as rats and mice, bats, flying squirrels, opossums, and raccoons, are nocturnal, so they mostly only make noise at night. Flying squirrels are also nocturnal. If the noises happen at night, there’s a strong chance of mice or rats.

The squirrel often finds bedding material by shredding roof or wall paper, and shredding vent ducts and insulation around pipes. The biggest problem is that they chew, and I’ve seen dozens of cases in which they’ve chewed electrical wires. It’s estimated that half of house fires of unknown origin are due to rodent chewing on electrical wires.

Most people will have no reaction at all when exposed to molds. Allergic reactions, similar to common pollen or animal allergies, are the most common health effects for individuals sensitive to molds. Flu-like symptoms and skin rash may occur. Molds may also aggravate asthma. Fungal infections from building-associated molds may occur in people with serious immune disease but this is very rare. Most symptoms are temporary and eliminated by correcting the mold problem in the home.

When your home is inspected by a Professional Home Inspector they are checking for proper ventilation, presence of moisture, proper insulation, mould, proper structural support and signs of rodent or animal entry. Bat feces or vermiculite insulation removal can run into ten thousand dollars or more for removal. Compared to the cost of hiring the Barrie Home Inspector for $200.00 this is a really cost effective way to protect yourself and ensure Peace of Mind on your next Real Estate purchase.

 

Cottage Inspections in Ontario

Cottage Inspections in Ontario.  “Cottages” in Eastern Canada are generally located next to lakes, rivers, or the ocean in forested areas. They are used as a place to spend holidays with friends and family; common activities including swimming, canoeing, waterskiing, fishing, hiking, and sailing. There are also many well-known summer colonies.

Beware of Shore Line Allowances which are registered on title and can take away up to 66 feet of your waterfront. Removing or closing a Shore Line Allowance can be expensive depending on the charges your Municipality may levy. Ensure you find out prior to closing as this may affect price of property. Conservation authorities may opposing closing of certain allowances making it difficult and more expensive.

Jet pumps draw water using an impeller which throws the water outwards creating a vacuum which draws the water up behind it, creating pressure. The jet pump will not pump air so if line is not completely sealed will lose its prime. To stop the water from flowing back down into the well a one-way check valve is installed on the feeder line.

Septic tanks are usually the only option for your remote cottage sewage system. They may be constructed of wood, steel or homemade and may need immediate replacing. The size of the septic tank required depends on the size of the cottage determined by the number bedrooms.

Tiny Township has implemented a Septic Inspection program at the request of cottagers bordering on waterfront.
That could be a worry for an inexperienced purchaser when you consider that they have found that one-quarter of the systems inspected in Tiny Township have been found to have some type of defect. Orendt says an inspection project on Charleston Lake near Brockville turned up a failure rate of 45 per cent.

If buying a Cottage in Barrie, Midland, Orillia, Rama, Brechin, Lagoon City, Severn Falls or in this general area contact the Barrie Home Inspector for a Professional Cottage Inspection. With over 4,000 inspections and as a Certified Building Code Official your investment is in good hands.

 

Siding and Cladding for Your Home

Siding and Cladding for Your Home.  Nothing will impact the appearance of your home more then the siding that’s on it. When shopping for siding you may want to consider what suits your lifestyle as well as the style of your home. Siding is the outer covering ( A.K.A. Cladding ) of a home meant to shed water and protect the home from the effects of weather but it may also act as a key element in the aesthetic beauty of the structure and directly influence its property value. Here are a few types of siding you may want to consider :

Stucco: Traditional stucco is cement combined with water and inert materials such as sand and lime but many homes built after the 50’s may resemble stucco but they actually use a variety of synthetic materials to achieve the same look. Stucco can be tinted to the colour you want and then the need to paint is gone forever. Synthetic stucco siding is lighter then the traditional and is more likely to suffer damage from a hard blow. It is often compromised of foam insulation board or cement panels screwed to the walls and the stucco is applied around it.

As a building material, stucco is a durable, attractive, and weather-resistant wall covering. It was traditionally used as both an interior and exterior finish applied in one or two thin layers directly over a solid masonry, brick or stone surface. The finish coat usually contained an integral color and was typically textured for appearance.
Stucco or render is a material made of an aggregate, a binder, and water. Stucco is applied wet and hardens to a very dense solid. It is used as a coating for walls and ceilings and for decoration. Stucco may be used to cover less visually appealing construction materials such as concrete, cinder block, or clay brick and adobe.

Stone veneer siding: Stone veneer is used as a decorative and protective covering for both interior and exterior applications. Stones like granite , limestone, slate, etc… are not only beautiful and hardly affected by weather , there also really expensive. That’s why precast stone veneers and facings became popular , the can look genuine ( depending on the product) and are also much more affordable the the real thing. The veneer is typically no thicker then 1″ and must weigh no more then 15 lbs per square foot to be installed without additional structural supports. These veneers can be made from natural stone by cutting the stone into thinner pieces or can be manufactured to look like stone.

Vinyl siding: Vinyl siding is one of if not the most popular type of siding. Unlike wood , this durable plastic will not rot or flake. Vinyl is available in several colour and it is said that it will never have to be painted. Advertisements say that vinyl siding is permanent and although it will last a very long time, it is less durable then wood or masonry. Heavy winds have been known to lift panels from the wall and windblown debris and strong hail can puncture it. New technologies are making this material stronger but the sheets may still crack if struck by a lawnmower or snow blower and unfortunately panels cannot be patched, they can only be replaced.

Engineered wood siding: Engineered wood siding is made from wood products and other materials. The panels can be molded to resemble traditional clapboards although it does not exactly look like real wood due to the fact that it’s textured grain is uniform. It does however look more natural then vinyl or aluminium siding. The benefit of engineered wood siding is that it offers all the advantages of of regular wood siding but in addition, it’s termite resistant and it will not rot,crack or split.

Having a Professional Home Inspector inspect your home prior to purchase will allow your new homes cladding to be inspected by a Professional like the Barrie Home Inspector. He will inspect for cladding of siding failure or poor installation techniques. Having all the information available is paramount prior to purchasing real estate, whether for investment or for your new home.

 

Home Inspector Interview in Florida

Home Inspector Interview in Florida.   The Real Truth About Home Inspections
2011-05-09 22:40:59 (GMT) (WiredPRNews.com – Business, Press Releases, Real Estate)

05/09/2011 // Fort Lauderdale, FL, US // sheiladanzig // Calvin Johnson

In this month’s TRUTH ABOUT series, I take a look at Home Inspections. Do you really need one? We called a few home inspection services and one inspector, Calvin Johnson, who’s both certified and has 30 years of home building experience, was particularly helpful and generous with his advice.

I now know that obtaining a quality home inspection before you sign on the dotted line is the mark of a savvy investor and, when done right with the right company, can ultimately save you a lot of money.
Here are some of the highlights of my conversation with Calvin Johnson.

SHEILA: First off, what exactly is a home inspection?
CALVIN JOHNSON: A home inspection is an in-depth visual evaluation of the condition of your home. The idea is to identify any problems there may be and advise what repairs should be made, both now and down the road. Think of it as viewing your house through a microscope for problems that might not be readily visible to the untrained eye.

SHEILA: I’m a buyer. Do I really need a home inspection if I’ve already seen inside the house and it’s looks in move-in condition?
CALVIN JOHNSON: A home inspection is not the same thing as simply walking through a house to decide whether or not you want to buy it. When a buyer first “inspects” a house, they are trying to decide whether or not they could be happy living there. They gauge room sizes and the overall layout, perhaps count the number of closets, and flip on a light switch or two. This is not a home inspection. A professional home inspector methodically examines every square foot, looking for red flags that might indicate a need for major repairs, such as electrical or plumbing problems, defective drywall, a roof that leaks or a basement that floods, termite damage, etc. These are all important things to know before a home purchase.

SHEILA: Aren’t I protected anyway if something goes wrong?
CALVIN JOHNSON: You may be, if you can prove the seller knew about a problem and didn’t disclose it beforehand but the burden of proof will fall on you and that can be expensive. But, what if a problem exists that the seller doesn’t know about? Maybe that leaking roof hasn’t seeped water inside any rooms yet, but it will eventually. It makes sense to be prepared and fix something while it’s still minor instead of waiting until it’s major. Mold can go undetected for years if you’re not on the look out for it. That old aluminum electrical wiring may have held up until now but do you really want to risk a fire before replacing it?

SHEILA: Okay, so it’s up to the buyer then? If I’m a seller, I don’t need a home inspection, right?
CALVIN JOHNSON: Actually, it’s a very good idea for the seller to get a home inspection, ideally before they even list their house for sale. If you know what’s good and not so good about your home before you put it on the market, not only will you be smarter at setting the price, but you can also take care of minor repairs before a buyer ever sees it. Those minor repairs will reflect your care and love for your home. Buyers will realize they are getting a quality product.

SHEILA: Are all home inspectors pretty much the same?
CALVIN JOHNSON: No, unfortunately not. As with any other type of contractor, quality varies greatly. I strongly recommend taking the time to interview several contractors before deciding. You want a home inspector who takes pride in doing a good job and wants to take care of their clients. If they’re not particularly helpful when you first interview them, are they really the one you want advising you? Ask about their certifications, how long they’ve been licensed and what other qualifications they offer. Ask if they’ll give you a reference or two from several years earlier (so you can find out if any major problems arose that the clients weren’t warned about). And ask to read a sample report to get a sense of how in-depth their inspections are. My reports cover more than 1,000 individual items that I carefully inspect and note for each client. It’s important to ensure that your inspector will do a meticulous job for you.

SHEILA: How long should the inspection take?
CALVIN JOHNSON: Well, naturally, this depends on the size of the house, but a thorough inspection of a typical home should last at least 2 hours. My inspections usually take two to three hours on an average-sized home. It’s not really possible to do a thorough job in less time than that. Beware if someone tells you that they can do it faster.

SHEILA: Should I be there for the inspection?
CALVIN JOHNSON: Yes, if you can. This is a terrific way to learn the ins and outs of a house, particularly for buyers who are unfamiliar with the property. When clients are with me, I also point out things that may not need to be included in the report but would benefit from, say, an upgrade to avoid problems down the road. It’s a terrific learning experience. I tell my clients to bring a notebook, two pens and a digital camera. Be sure to wear comfortable clothes and shoes because you may be in the trenches a bit with the inspector.

SHEILA: What exactly can I expect from a good home inspector?
CALVIN JOHNSON: A good home inspector will give your home a thorough going over, both outside and in. They’ll look for telltale wall cracks and bulges, check for straight, plumb walls and reasonably precise corners, floor level disparities due to settling and other issues, even potential drainage issues — all of these come under the umbrella of a quality home inspection. An inspector can tell you if the soil grading is acceptable, that is, if the rainwater will pool against the foundation instead of draining away as it should.
I inspect the exterior for signs of active foundation settlement, which can weaken the frame of the home, as well as other structural problems, water or insect damage and wood rot. I evaluate the condition of every door and every window, and the condition of the roof — whether it will need replacing soon or bears the marks of a slipshod replacement job, and whether any leaks exist, all of which can be very expensive issues to remedy if you’re caught unawares.
I also check for proper insulation, the condition of walls and ceilings, cracks and caulking, evidence of Chinese drywall, which has become a real problem in recent years, and for the likelihood that lead paint may have been used on the walls. I look for evidence of insect damage, mold and mildew (both present and past), asbestos, radon and other potential health hazards.

SHEILA: Are the heating and air conditioning systems checked?
CALVIN JOHNSON: Absolutely! A good inspector will always test the heating and cooling systems, verify if the condenser unit coils or fan blades are in good condition, for example, and estimate the remaining life span of the systems.

SHEILA: What about the water pipes?
CALVIN JOHNSON: All visible plumbing is examined. I even check the type of shower pan because metal shower pans only last about 10 or 15 years compared to more superior materials. I check the drain lines, water flow/pressure and how much hot water the water heater provides. I look for water leaks, noisy pipes, the presence of lead pipes, which is a health hazard, and even systems where pipes have been “married” to dissimilar materials, because of the high risk of corrosion and leakage.

SHEILA: Can you advise me about the electrical system?
CALVIN JOHNSON: Certainly. I check to see whether the house is properly wired and grounded, whether there are oversized fuses or breakers in the main panel, and look for any exposed wires or frayed cables inside and out. All of these are very real fire and health risks.

SHEILA: Can the inspector fix the problems?
CALVIN JOHNSON: I can but, unfortunately, most don’t. I have a team available to make any necessary repairs at a very low cost to the consumer. Over the years, I realized that offering quality repairs was something my clients really wanted, particularly long distance buyers who don’t know any reputable, local contractors. I used my decades of home building experience to build a top notch team.

SHEILA: What if there’s a problem? Can I still buy or sell the house?
CALVIN JOHNSON: Don’t despair if your home isn’t perfect. They rarely are. Unless there is a serious structural problem that would prevent a sale, most issues can be dealt with pretty readily. Tackling a small repair can often prevent it from becoming a larger, more expensive one down the road. And, it’s helpful to know that, for example, the roof is fine now but will need to be replaced in, say, 5 or 10 years. That’s normal, but it helps to know now so you’re not caught unawares. And never forget that knowing a home’s strengths and weaknesses helps when negotiating a contract.

By Sheila Danzig, Editor of The Truth About Series

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Lawn Care and Pesticide Use in Ontario

Lawn Care and Pesticide Use in Ontario.  Picture a healthy green lawn: perfect for lounging, great for ball games and cookouts, a real asset to your home. But did you know that your lawn-and how you take care of it-can also help the environment?

* Healthy grass provides feeding ground for birds, who find it a rich source of insects, worms, and other food. Thick grass prevents soil erosion, filters contaminants from rainwater, and absorbs many types of airborne pollutants, like dust and soot. Grass is also highly efficient at converting carbon dioxide to oxygen, a process that helps clean the air.

* Caring for your lawn properly can both enhance its appearance and contribute to its environmental benefits.

You don’t have to be an expert to grow a healthy lawn. Just keep in mind that the secret is to work with nature. This means creating conditions for grass to thrive and resist damage from weeds, disease, and insect pests. It means setting realistic goals for your lawn, whether you or a professional lawn care service will be doing the work. And if you choose to use pesticides, it means using them with care so as to get the most benefit and reduce any risks.

* Caring for your lawn in an environmentally sensible way can have a bigger impact than you might think. Your lawn is only a small piece of land, but all the lawns across the country cover a lot of ground. That means you and your lawn care activities, along with everyone else’s can make a difference to the environment. And that’s why taking care of the environment begins in our own backyards.

Working With Nature: A Preventive Health Care Program For Your Lawn

To start, think about lawn care as a preventive health care program, like one you would use to keep up your own health. The idea is to prevent problems from occurring so you don’t have to treat them. As they say, an ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure. A healthy lawn can out-compete most weeds, survive most insect attacks, and fend off most diseases-before these problems ever get the upper hand. Your lawn care program should be tailored to local conditions-the amount of rainfall you get, for example, and the type of soil you have. The sources listed at the back of this brochure can help you design a lawn care program that suits both local conditions and your own particular needs. But no matter where you live, you can use the program outlined in this brochure as a general guide to growing a healthy lawn.

A preventive health care program for your lawn should have the following steps:

1. Develop healthy soil
2. Choose a grass type that thrives in your climate
3. Mow high, often, and with sharp blades
4. Water deeply but not too often
5. Correct thatch build-up
6. Set realistic goals

Develop Healthy Soil

Good soil is the foundation of a healthy lawn. To grow well, your lawn needs soil with good texture, some key nutrients, and the right pH, or acidity/alkalinity balance. Start by checking the texture of your soil to see whether it’s heavy with clay, light and sandy, or somewhere in between. Lawns grow best in soil with intermediate or “loamy” soils that have a mix of clay, silt, and sand. Whatever soil type you have, you can probably improve it by periodically adding organic matter like compost, manure, or grass clippings. Organic matter helps to lighten a predominantly clay soil and it helps sandy soil retain water and nutrients.

Also check to see if your soil is packed down from lots of use or heavy clay content. This makes it harder for air and water to penetrate, and for grass roots to grow. To loosen compacted soil, some lawns may need to be aerated several times a year. This process involves pulling out plugs of soil to create air spaces, so water and nutrients can again penetrate to the grass roots.

Most lawns need to be fertilized every year, because they need more nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium than soils usually contain. These three elements are the primary ingredients found in most lawn fertilizers. It’s important not to over-fertilize-you could do more harm to your lawn than good-and it’s best to use a slow-release fertilizer that feeds the lawn slowly. It’s also important to check the soil’s pH. Grass is best able to absorb nutrients in a slightly acidic soil, with a pH of 6.5 to 7.0. Soil that is too acidic can be “sweetened” with lime; soil that’s not acid enough can be made more sour by adding sulfur.

Have your soil tested periodically to see whether it needs more organic matter or the pH needs adjusting. Your county extension agent (listed in your phone book under county government) or local nursery should be able to tell you how to do this. These experts can also help you choose the right fertilizer, compost, and other “soil amendments,” and they can advise you about aerating if your soil is compacted. If a professional service takes care of your lawn, make sure it takes these same steps to develop good soil. There’s no getting around it: your lawn’s health is only as good as the soil it grows in.

Choose A Grass Type That Thrives In Your Climate

The right type of grass-one that suits your needs and likes the local weather-will always give better results. Grasses vary in the type of climate they prefer, the amount of water and nutrients they need, their resistance to pests, their tolerance for shade, and the degree of wear they can withstand.

If you are putting in a new lawn, it will be worth your while to do some research to identify the best grass type for your needs. If you’re working with an established lawn that fails to thrive despite proper care, you might consider replanting with a different type of grass.

Why struggle to grow grass that’s susceptible to fungal disease if you live in a humid climate? Or a water loving species if you live in an area with water shortages? Grass that is well adapted to your area will grow better and resist local pests and diseases better.

New grass varieties and mixtures come out on the market every year. Ask your county extension agent or another one of the sources listed in this brochure for recommendations.

Mow High, Often and With Sharp Blades

Mowing high-that is, keeping your lawn a bit long-will produce stronger, healthier grass with fewer pest problems. Longer grass has more leaf surface to take in sunlight. This enables it to grow thicker and develop a deeper root system, which in turn helps the grass survive drought, tolerate insect damage, and fend off diseases. Longer grass also shades the soil surface keeping it cooler, helping it retain moisture, and making it difficult for weeds to germinate and grow.

A lawn’s ideal length will vary with the type of grass, but many turf grass species are healthiest when kept between 2-1/2 and 3-1/2 inches. You may have to readjust your mower-most are set too low.

It’s also important to mow with sharp blades to prevent tearing and injuring the grass. And it’s best to mow often, because grass adjusts better to frequent than infrequent mowing. The rule of thumb is to mow often enough that you never cut more than one-third of the height of the grass blades. Save some time and help your lawn and the environment by leaving short clippings on the grass-where they recycle nitrogen-rather than sending them in bags to the landfill.

You don’t have to grow a foot-high meadow to get good results. Just adding an inch will give most lawns a real boost.

Water Deeply But Not Too Often

Watering properly will help your lawn grow deep roots that make it stronger and less vulnerable to drought. Most lawns are watered too often but with too little water. It’s best to water only when the lawn really needs it, and then to water slowly and deeply. This trains the grass roots down. Frequent shallow watering trains the roots to stay near the surface, making the lawn less able to find moisture during dry periods.

Every lawn’s watering needs are unique: they depend on local rainfall, the grass and soil type, and the general health of the lawn. But even in very dry areas, no established home lawn should require daily watering.

Try to water your lawn in a way that imitates a slow, soaking rain, by using trickle irrigation, soaker hoses, or other water-conserving methods. It’s also best to water in the early morning, especially during hot summer months, to reduce evaporation. Apply about an inch of water-enough that it soaks 6-8 inches into the soil. Then let the lawn dry out thoroughly before watering it again.

The best rule is to water only when the lawn begins to wilt from dryness-when the color dulls and footprints stay compressed for more than a few seconds.

Correct Thatch Build-Up

All grass forms a layer of dead plant material, known as thatch, between the grass blades and the soil. When thatch gets too thick-deeper than one-half inch-it prevents water and nutrients from penetrating to the soil and grass roots. Some grasses tend to form a thick layer of thatch. Overuse of fertilizer can also create a heavy layer of thatch. You can reduce thatch by raking the lawn or using a machine that slices through the thatch layer to break it up. Sprinkling a thin layer of topsoil or compost over the lawn will also help.

In a healthy lawn, microorganisms and earthworms help keep the thatch layer in balance by decomposing it and releasing the nutrients into the soil.

Set Realistic Goals

Setting realistic goals will allow you to conduct an environmentally sensible lawn care program. It’s probably not necessary to aim for putting-green perfection. Did you know that a lawn with 15 percent weeds can look practically weed-free to the average observer? Even a healthy lawn is likely to have some weeds or insect pests. But it will also have beneficial insects and other organisms that help keep pests under control. Also realize that grass just can’t grow well in certain spots. Why fight a losing battle with your lawn, when you have other options? At the base of a tree, for example, you might have better luck with wood chips or shade-loving ornamental plants like ivy, periwinkle, or pachysandra. If your climate is very dry, consider converting some of your lawn to dry-garden landscaping. It could save time, money, and water resources.

What Is IPM?

Integrated Pest Management is essentially common-sense pest control. IPM is not a new concept; some forms of it have been practiced for centuries.

IPM involves the carefully managed use of three different pest control tactics-biological, cultural, and chemical-to get the best long-term results with the least disruption of the environment. Biological control means using natural enemies of the pest, like lady bugs to control aphids. Cultural or horticultural control involves the use of gardening methods, like mowing high to shade out weeds. Chemical control involves the judicious use of pesticides. IPM is a highly effective approach that minimizes the use of pesticides and maximizes the use of natural processes. Lawn care professionals who use IPM should have a sophisticated understanding of the ecosystem of your turf and the available pest control tactics. Home gardeners can also practice IPM by following the steps outlined in this article.

Tips For Using Pesticides

Sometimes, even with good lawn care practices, weather conditions or other factors can cause pest problems to develop. Pesticides can help control many lawn pests. But pesticides have risks as well as benefits, and it’s important to use them properly.

The chemicals we call pesticides include insecticides, herbicides, and fungicides. These products are designed to kill or control pest insects, weeds, and fungal diseases. Pesticides can be very effective. But don’t be tempted to rely solely on pesticides as a quick-fix solution to any lawn problem. Serious, ongoing pest problems are often a sign that your lawn is not getting everything it needs. In other words, the pests may be a symptom of an underlying problem. You need to correct the underlying problem to reduce the chance that the pest will reappear. All pesticides are toxic to some degree. This means they can pose some risk to you, to your children and pets, and to any wildlife that venture onto your lawn-especially if these chemicals are overused or carelessly applied. Pesticides can also kill earthworms and other beneficial organisms, disrupting the ecological balance of your lawn.

Store pesticides out of children’s reach in a locked cabinet or garden shed.

When Spraying, Protect your skin, your eyes, and your lungs. Wash this clothing separately before using it again.

Before Using Any Pesticide, Be Sure To Review These Basic Rules

1. Take safety precautions. Never assume a pesticide is harmless.
* Read the entire label and follow its instructions. Use only the amount directed, at the time and under the conditions specified, and for the purpose listed.
* Be sure to wear any protective clothing-like gloves, long sleeves, and long pants-indicated on the label. Wash this clothing separately before using it again.
* Keep children and pets away from pesticides, and make sure no one goes on a treated lawn for at least the time prescribed by the pesticide label.
* Remember to follow any state or local requirements for posting your treated lawn or notifying your neighbors that a pesticide has been applied.
* Store and dispose of pesticides properly, according to the label directions and any state and local regulations.

2. Use pesticides to minimize pests, not eradicate them. The latter is often impossible and unnecessary.

3. Be sure you have accurately identified the pest so you can choose the best pesticide for the job and use it most effectively. Obtain professional advice from your county extension agent or a local expert.

4. Spot treat whenever possible. In most cases, it isn’t necessary to treat the whole lawn with pesticides if the problem is confined to certain areas. Spraying more than necessary is wasteful and can be environmentally damaging.

If you have questions about a pesticide, call EPA’s toll free National Pesticide Telecommunications Network (1-800-858-7378). For general information on minimizing pesticide risks, call or write EPA for a free copy of the Citizen’s Guide to Pesticides. The number to call is 703-305-5017; the address is: EPA, Office of Pesticide Programs, Field Operations Division, H7506C, 401M Street, S.W., Washington, D.C. 20460.

Choosing A Lawn Care Service

Many people choose to hire a professional company to help maintain their lawn. Lawn care companies offer a range of services, from fertilizing and pest control to aerating, mowing, and renovation.

Lawn care companies should follow the same healthy lawn program outlined in this brochure. They should also follow the same precautions for minimizing pesticide risks.

How can you be sure that a service will do these things?

Start by asking questions like these:

Q. Is the company licensed?
A. Nearly all states require lawn care companies to be licensed. The qualifications for obtaining a license vary from state to state, but having a license is one indication that the company is reputable and operating legally.
Q. Does the company have a good track record?
A. Ask neighbors and friends who have dealt with the company if they were satisfied with the service they received.

Call the Better Business Bureau or the state or local consumer protection office listed in your phone book; have they received any complaints about the company? Determine from the state pesticide regulatory agency if the company has a history of violations.

Q. Is the company affiliated with a professional lawn care association?
A. Affiliation with a professional association helps members to stay informed of new developments in the lawn care field.
Q. Does the company offer a variety of pest management approaches? Does it apply pesticides on a set schedule or only when they are really needed? Does it use integrated pest management, or “IPM”-an approach that often reduces pesticide use by combining it with other, non- chemical methods of pest control?
A. More and more lawn companies are offering integrated pest management (IPM) in response to public concern about pesticides. Be aware that IPM is a general term and that companies may use it to describe a wide range of activities. Find out exactly what a company means if it says it uses IPM.
Q. Is the company willing to help you understand your lawn’s problems and the solutions?
A. Lawn services generally apply fertilizers and pesticides. But you may be the one who mows and waters-and poor watering and mowing practices can lead to disappointing results. The company should tell you how it plans to take care of your lawn, and advise you about the work you need to do to keep your lawn in good shape.
Q. Will the company tell you what pesticides it applies to your lawn and why, and what health and environmental risks may be presented by their use?
A. You have a right to this information. If asked, the company should readily supply it. All pesticides sold legally in the United States are registered by EPA, but such registration is not a guarantee of safety. Ask to see a copy of pesticide labels to make sure they bear an EPA registration number, and to review the directions that should be followed. If the company can’t answer your questions about the chemicals it uses, call NPTN (1-800-858-7378) for more information.

Ontario Home Owners Special Considerations

Under Ontario’s cosmetic pesticides ban, which came into effect on April 22, 2009, consumers can purchase and use biopesticides and certain lower risk pesticides for cosmetic purposes to manage weeds, insects and plant diseases.

Consumers can also purchase and use pesticides for public health or safety reasons such as fighting West Nile Virus, killing stinging insects like wasps, or to control poison ivy and other plant poisonous to human touch.

New Requirements for Controlled Sale (Class 7) Pesticides

As of April 22, 2011, controlled sale pesticides will not be readily accessible to members of the public. Purchasers of controlled sale pesticides will need to speak to a store employee for service. For example, some stores may store their controlled sale pesticides behind a staffed counter or in locked cabinets or cages that can only be unlocked by staff.

Controlled Sale Pesticides Handouts

Purchasers of controlled sale pesticides must receive written information, approved by the ministry, at the time of purchase. This information will describe uses allowed under the ban.

Some retailers will provide the Ministry of the Environment’s Controlled Sale (Class 7) Handout or the Class 7 Handout Domestic Products (2009 version) or the Controlled Sale (Class 7) Bear Repellent Handout to purchasers of products containing capsaicin for repelling bears.

Other retailers may choose to incorporate the applicable Ministry of the Environment-approved wording into cash register receipts or to provide handouts to consumers.

Homemade Pesticides

Homemade pesticides are illegal and may pose a risk to you, your garden and the environment. More information is available through Health Canada.

Check out the Homeowners and Gardeners Fact Sheet for more information about:

Allowed pesticide uses
Hiring a licensed exterminator to maintain the health of trees, lawns and gardens.
Check out the Private Land and Woodlot Owners Fact Sheet for information about:

The arboriculture exception to maintain the health of trees
The forestry use exception to protect trees from pests and competing vegetation
Check out the Community Gardeners Fact Sheet for information about specific requirements for those who grow vegetables or other plants on public land such as plots or allotments in hydro corridors.

For help with your chemical-free garden, check out the Ontario Ministry of Agriculture, Food and Rural Affairs’ Online Gardener’s Handbook.

For help with pest problems using pesticides allowed under the ban, check out Managing Pests in Lawns and Gardens.

Posts Related to Lawn Care and Pesticide Use in Ontario

Home Inspection and Drywall Basics

Home Inspection and Drywall Basics.  One of the most common deficiencies found during a home inspection is cracks in drywall or plaster. Cracks are common in plaster and drywall because they are brittle and rigid but are supported by materials that are not equally as rigid. Plaster and drywall are attached to flexible wood structures on foundations that rest upon compressible soil. Wood expands in humid weather and contracts in dry weather. Plaster and drywall are too rigid to move with the wood and therefore cracks will appear when there is any movement in the house or foundation.

Drywall installation involves nailing or screwing the sheets to the studs. Drywall installers cut the sheets to fit, and holes must be cut to accommodate pipes and mechanical equipment. The sheets are then fastened to the studs in a process called hanging. While most drywall installation used to use nails, screws are now the most common. Drywall is normally installed perpendicular to (across) the ceiling joists and wall studs, and the ceiling is always installed first.

Special moisture resistant drywall is used where excessive moisture may be a problem, such as bathrooms. In most cases, the moisture resistant drywall is green. Fire-rated drywall (Type X) is used where building codes require it. Typically in garages and under stairs.

After the drywall is installed, special metal corner strips (“corner bead”) is installed on all corners. This helps to protect the edges of the drywall and provide a nice straight finished edge. Joint compound (drywall mud) is used to finish all joints, nail heads and corners. In most cases, two or three coats of compound are needed at all taped joints. The texture coat is applied last.

The finished quality of your drywall will have a large impact on the beauty of your home. Most drywall cracks can be eliminated by just applying joint compound, but plaster cracks should be widened to 3/8 inch down to the lathe cleaning it out and wetting it with Elmer’s glue diluted 50% with water. If sections of plaster are disconnected from the lathe, they can be secured with “plaster buttons” prior to plastering the crack. Press fresh patching plaster, not joint compound, into the crack so that it is forced into the spaces between the lathes.
When plaster ceilings are full of cracks, apply drywall directly over the plaster and don’t bother patching. It’s just not worth the effort. Make sure the drywall is screwed to the floor joist or strapping and not just to the lathe.

Buildings built between 1930 and 1950 may have metal lathes under the plaster. You’ll notice when you try to hang a picture! You can distinguish between metal or wood lathe by hitting the wall. Metal lathe walls tend to be much stiffer.

This home maintenance tip and maintenance advice is brought to you by the Barrie Home Inspector and Orillia Home Inspector

Home Maintenance Checklist

Home Maintenance Checklist

Homeowners have a duty to make sure their homes are as healthy as they can make them. This ties in to healthy home maintenance, and a healthy home is said to be one that is built, maintained, and then rehabilitated in a way that promotes the good health of its occupants. A few goals that homeowners should have with regards to a healthy home is keeping it dry, orderly, ventilated, contaminant-free, free from pests, secure, and also maintained. Healthy home maintenance will lead to a lessening of allergens, a lower likelihood of injuries resulting from accidents, and also a prevention of sickness.

Spring

Yard & Exterior

Make sure to assess the water drainage in order to see that it flows away from the residence.
Check the whole area of the yard to evaluate whether there are any fall, trip, choking, and sharp-edge hazards. If there are, be sure to remove them from the yard.
If you have a pool on the property, make sure to maintain the fence around the pool so that it is intact.
Assess the year to see whether there are signs of pests in or around it, pests like roaches, rats, termites, or bats. If there are, an exterminator should be called.
Sanitize the window wells and evaluate the drainage.
Clean both the downspouts on the property, as well as the gutters.
Exterior Roof, Walls, Windows

Evaluate to see whether the shingles on the roof are in good condition.
Assess the valley, chimney, and the plumbing vent, and also the skylight flashing.
Check to see that the gutters emit water away from your home.
Assess the attic to see if it has any indications of the roof leaking.
See if any paint is peeling on the outside of the house.
In the area where the deck is connected to the residence, see if there are any indications of leaks.
To see if the flashing of the home is intact, be sure to check the bottom of the doors and windows.
Evaluate the home’s door and window sills to determine if leaks are present.
If the dryer vent needs cleaning, attend to it.
Determine if the exhaust ducts are clear. If not, then clear them.
Basement & Crawlspace

Determine that there are no puddles or wet surfaces here.
Look for the sump pump, and see if its valve is working properly.
Evaluate the floor drain to see if it is working.
Look after the surfaces of the basement by vacuuming them.
Interior Walls, Ceilings, Windows, Doors

Assess the operation of both doors and windows to see that they open and close smoothly.
Appliances

Attend to the screens and dryer vents of appliances by cleaning them.
Attend to the exhaust fan outlets and their screens by cleaning them.
Find the drain pans and coils on air conditioners and clean those.
Evaluate the operation of the dehumidifier, and clean its coils.
Plumbing, Fixtures and Appliances

Assess the drains and the supply time for any leaks that may have occurred.
Evaluate the functioning of kitchen and bathroom fans.
Electrical Equipment

Evaluate any electrical equipment for possibly damaged cords.
Do tests to determine if the ground fault interrupters are working fine.
Analyze carbon monoxide and smoke alarms to see if they are working well.
Garage

Make certain that fuel cans are stored properly.
Ensure that the garage door safety shut-off is in working order.
See if there are any indications of any water damage.
See if there are any indications of the presence of rodents, termites, roaches, or bats.
HVAC Equipment

Replace the filters on any air conditioners.
Fall

Yard & Exterior

Check the whole area of the yard to evaluate whether there are any fall, trip, choking, and sharp-edge hazards. If there are, be sure to remove them from the yard.
If you have a pool on the property, make sure to maintain the fence around the pool so that it is intact.
Assess the year to see whether there are signs of pests in or around it, pests like roaches, rats, termites, or bats. If there are, an exterminator should be called.
Make sure that the outdoor hoses and faucets are drained.
Sanitize the window wells and evaluate the drainage.
Clean both the downspouts on the property, as well as the gutters.
Exterior Roof, Walls, Windows

Assess the attic vents to see that everything is alright.
Make any necessary repairs on glass that has been either cracked or broken.
If the dryer vent needs cleaning, attend to it.
Determine if the exhaust ducts are clear. If not, then clear them.
Basement & Crawlspace

Determine that there are no puddles or wet surfaces here.
Look for the sump pump, and see if its valve is working properly.
See if there are any indications of termites, bats, rodents, or roaches.
Appliances

Clean out any outdoor air intakes along with any screens.
Furnaces, hot water heaters, and boilers should be cleaned.
Both ranges and ovens ought to be cleaned.
Plumbing, Fixtures and Appliances

Evaluate the hot water heater for signs of any leaks.
See if the boiler has any leaks.
Assess if the water meter or main or the well pump is exhibiting any signs of sweating or leaking.
Assess the drains and the supply time for any leaks that may have occurred.
Evaluate the functioning of kitchen and bathroom fans.
Electrical Equipment

Evaluate any electrical equipment for possibly damaged cords.
Analyze carbon monoxide and smoke alarms to see if they are working well.
Garage

Make certain that fuel cans are stored properly.
Ensure that the garage door safety shut-off is in working order.
See if there are any indications of the presence of rodents, termites, roaches, or bats.
HVAC Equipment

Replace the filters on any warm air furnaces.
Set the outdoor air to the heat recovery ventilation setting again.
Attic

Evaluate the attic to see if there are any indications of pests like bats, rodents, roaches, or termites.
Assess if the attic has suffered any water damage.
Make certain that the insulation is in place.
Annual

Exterior Roof, Walls, Windows

Only in the winter, determine if there are any ice dams or icicles that are present.
Interior Walls, Ceilings, Windows, Doors

Determine if there exist any indications of water damage.
Plumbing, Fixtures and Appliances

Inspect the connections in the washer hoses.
Look at the hoses of the dishwasher to see if any leaks are present.
Inspect the toilet supply and the shut-off valve.
Make sure the connections between the ice maker and the refrigerator’s drip pan are cleaned and assessed.
See if the surrounding area of the shower and the tub exhibits any sign of damage.
See if the drains and the traps under the showers, tubs, and sinks have any leaks in them.
Every two years, be sure to also clean the septic tank.
Electrical Equipment

Once every year, be certain to check all outlets for correct ground, neutral, and hot connections.
Attic

See if the fans still emit exhaust out of the house by inspecting the duct work connections.
As Needed

Interior Walls, Ceilings, Windows, Doors

Repair the doors and the windows, and apply lubricant to them also.
Appliances

Clean the screens that are found on the kitchen range hood.

Inspecting Your Home for Moisture

Moisture and water vapor move in and out of a house in three ways: with air currents; by diffusion through materials; and by heat transfer. Of these three, air movement accounts for more than 98% of all water vapor movement in building cavities. Air naturally moves from a high-pressure area to a lower one by the easiest path possible-generally, through any available hole or crack in the building envelope. Moisture transfer by aircurrents is very fast-in the range of several hundred cubic feet of air per minute.Thus, to control air movement, a house should have any unintended air paths thoroughly and permanently sealed.

The laws of physics govern how moist air reacts within various temperature conditions. The study of the properties of moist air is technically referred to as “psychrometrics.” A psychrometric chart is used by professionals to determine at what temperature and moisture concentration water vapor begins to condense. This is called the “dew point.” By learning how to determine the dew point, you will better understand how to diagnose moisture problems in a house.Ventilating roofs in hot and humid conditions may add (rather than remove) moisture from attics and enclosed roof spaces. However, not ventilating roofs may void the asphalt-composition roofing manufacturer’s warranty, and slightly decrease the life expectancy of the roofing material due to increased temperature of the roof’s surface.

Recommended minimum widths for roof overhangs for one- and two-story wood-frame buildings are typically 12to 24 inches. For taller structures, larger roof overhangs are desirable. Alternatively, porch roofs and upperfloor overhangs can be used to protect lower-story walls.
Some jurisdictions do not regulate roof overhangs. Common problems with guttering are associated with installation and maintenance. Home inspectors can check ifproperly sized materials are being used, if guttering is appropriately sloped toward adequately sized downspouts,and if discharge is directed away from the building’s perimeter. Discharging water at inside building cornersshould be avoided. Some local storm water requirements may require special infiltration or filtration treatmentsof roof runoff.

The installation of even the most weather-resistant wall envelope system on a house does not diminish the need or proper installation, particularly with regard to flashing details at penetrations. In addition, the use of roof overhangs provides performance benefits for all cladding systems by reducing the moisture load experienced over time, and by allowing greater opportunities for walls to dry in the event of periodic wetting due to wind-driven rain. The life expectancy of various siding materials may vary widely, from 10 to as much as 100 years or more, depending on type of material, climate exposure, maintenance, and other factors.

water in basement by barrie home inspector

Face-Sealed: This type of WRE relies exclusively on the ability of the outer surface of the wall and joints around penetrations to deflect water and prevent it from penetrating the wall surface. If a defect in     the wall surface or joint detailing (such as caulk) exists or occurs over time, then water will penetrate and potentially accumulate in the wall, causing damage to any moisture-sensitive materials within the   assembly. One example of this type of system is known as conventional or barrier EIFS (exterior insulation finish system). However, building standards only allow the use of a new type of drainable EIFS      (i.e., drained cavity) on residential construction.

Assessing your buildings exposure can determine the amount of protection required. The terrain surrounding a building impacts its exposure to wind-driven rain. The ratio of roof overhang width to the   height of the protected wall below also alters the exposure of a building to weather and wind-driven rain. Long roof overhangs relative towall height effectively reduce the exposure. Similarly, increased shielding of the site against wind tends to reduce the effects of climate. Understanding the exposure in this manner can guide inspections of flashing details, the potential benefits of having greater overhangs installed, etc.

Many performance problems with windows and doors are related to installation issues. Installation directionsincluded with window and door units should be followed carefully. Home inspectors are not required to confirm compliance with a manufacturer’s recommendations. However, knowing the general guidelines and techniques for proper installation of windows and doors will assist the inspector in recognizing installation problems that may promote moisture intrusion.

Having your home inspected by a Certified Building Code Official will identify most common moisture issues and the Barrie Home Inspector is available to help identify and correct moisture issues in your home.

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