Barrie Home Inspector

Home Maintenance and Tips for Home Owners

Category: Home Inspection

Home Inspection Tips for buyers and sellers.

Home Maintenance Checklist

Home Inspection

Home Maintenance Checklist

Homeowners have a duty to make sure their homes are as healthy as they can make them. This ties in to healthy home maintenance, and a healthy home is said to be one that is built, maintained, and then rehabilitated in a way that promotes the good health of its occupants. A few goals that homeowners should have with regards to a healthy home is keeping it dry, orderly, ventilated, contaminant-free, free from pests, secure, and also maintained. Healthy home maintenance will lead to a lessening of allergens, a lower likelihood of injuries resulting from accidents, and also a prevention of sickness.

Spring

Yard & Exterior

Make sure to assess the water drainage in order to see that it flows away from the residence.
Check the whole area of the yard to evaluate whether there are any fall, trip, choking, and sharp-edge hazards. If there are, be sure to remove them from the yard.
If you have a pool on the property, make sure to maintain the fence around the pool so that it is intact.
Assess the year to see whether there are signs of pests in or around it, pests like roaches, rats, termites, or bats. If there are, an exterminator should be called.
Sanitize the window wells and evaluate the drainage.
Clean both the downspouts on the property, as well as the gutters.
Exterior Roof, Walls, Windows

Evaluate to see whether the shingles on the roof are in good condition.
Assess the valley, chimney, and the plumbing vent, and also the skylight flashing.
Check to see that the gutters emit water away from your home.
Assess the attic to see if it has any indications of the roof leaking.
See if any paint is peeling on the outside of the house.
In the area where the deck is connected to the residence, see if there are any indications of leaks.
To see if the flashing of the home is intact, be sure to check the bottom of the doors and windows.
Evaluate the home’s door and window sills to determine if leaks are present.
If the dryer vent needs cleaning, attend to it.
Determine if the exhaust ducts are clear. If not, then clear them.
Basement & Crawlspace

Determine that there are no puddles or wet surfaces here.
Look for the sump pump, and see if its valve is working properly.
Evaluate the floor drain to see if it is working.
Look after the surfaces of the basement by vacuuming them.
Interior Walls, Ceilings, Windows, Doors

Assess the operation of both doors and windows to see that they open and close smoothly.
Appliances

Attend to the screens and dryer vents of appliances by cleaning them.
Attend to the exhaust fan outlets and their screens by cleaning them.
Find the drain pans and coils on air conditioners and clean those.
Evaluate the operation of the dehumidifier, and clean its coils.
Plumbing, Fixtures and Appliances

Assess the drains and the supply time for any leaks that may have occurred.
Evaluate the functioning of kitchen and bathroom fans.
Electrical Equipment

Evaluate any electrical equipment for possibly damaged cords.
Do tests to determine if the ground fault interrupters are working fine.
Analyze carbon monoxide and smoke alarms to see if they are working well.
Garage

Make certain that fuel cans are stored properly.
Ensure that the garage door safety shut-off is in working order.
See if there are any indications of any water damage.
See if there are any indications of the presence of rodents, termites, roaches, or bats.
HVAC Equipment

Replace the filters on any air conditioners.
Fall

Yard & Exterior

Check the whole area of the yard to evaluate whether there are any fall, trip, choking, and sharp-edge hazards. If there are, be sure to remove them from the yard.
If you have a pool on the property, make sure to maintain the fence around the pool so that it is intact.
Assess the year to see whether there are signs of pests in or around it, pests like roaches, rats, termites, or bats. If there are, an exterminator should be called.
Make sure that the outdoor hoses and faucets are drained.
Sanitize the window wells and evaluate the drainage.
Clean both the downspouts on the property, as well as the gutters.
Exterior Roof, Walls, Windows

Assess the attic vents to see that everything is alright.
Make any necessary repairs on glass that has been either cracked or broken.
If the dryer vent needs cleaning, attend to it.
Determine if the exhaust ducts are clear. If not, then clear them.
Basement & Crawlspace

Determine that there are no puddles or wet surfaces here.
Look for the sump pump, and see if its valve is working properly.
See if there are any indications of termites, bats, rodents, or roaches.
Appliances

Clean out any outdoor air intakes along with any screens.
Furnaces, hot water heaters, and boilers should be cleaned.
Both ranges and ovens ought to be cleaned.
Plumbing, Fixtures and Appliances

Evaluate the hot water heater for signs of any leaks.
See if the boiler has any leaks.
Assess if the water meter or main or the well pump is exhibiting any signs of sweating or leaking.
Assess the drains and the supply time for any leaks that may have occurred.
Evaluate the functioning of kitchen and bathroom fans.
Electrical Equipment

Evaluate any electrical equipment for possibly damaged cords.
Analyze carbon monoxide and smoke alarms to see if they are working well.
Garage

Make certain that fuel cans are stored properly.
Ensure that the garage door safety shut-off is in working order.
See if there are any indications of the presence of rodents, termites, roaches, or bats.
HVAC Equipment

Replace the filters on any warm air furnaces.
Set the outdoor air to the heat recovery ventilation setting again.
Attic

Evaluate the attic to see if there are any indications of pests like bats, rodents, roaches, or termites.
Assess if the attic has suffered any water damage.
Make certain that the insulation is in place.
Annual

Exterior Roof, Walls, Windows

Only in the winter, determine if there are any ice dams or icicles that are present.
Interior Walls, Ceilings, Windows, Doors

Determine if there exist any indications of water damage.
Plumbing, Fixtures and Appliances

Inspect the connections in the washer hoses.
Look at the hoses of the dishwasher to see if any leaks are present.
Inspect the toilet supply and the shut-off valve.
Make sure the connections between the ice maker and the refrigerator’s drip pan are cleaned and assessed.
See if the surrounding area of the shower and the tub exhibits any sign of damage.
See if the drains and the traps under the showers, tubs, and sinks have any leaks in them.
Every two years, be sure to also clean the septic tank.
Electrical Equipment

Once every year, be certain to check all outlets for correct ground, neutral, and hot connections.
Attic

See if the fans still emit exhaust out of the house by inspecting the duct work connections.
As Needed

Interior Walls, Ceilings, Windows, Doors

Repair the doors and the windows, and apply lubricant to them also.
Appliances

Clean the screens that are found on the kitchen range hood.

Inspecting Your Home for Moisture

Home Inspection

Moisture and water vapor move in and out of a house in three ways: with air currents; by diffusion through materials; and by heat transfer. Of these three, air movement accounts for more than 98% of all water vapor movement in building cavities. Air naturally moves from a high-pressure area to a lower one by the easiest path possible-generally, through any available hole or crack in the building envelope. Moisture transfer by aircurrents is very fast-in the range of several hundred cubic feet of air per minute.Thus, to control air movement, a house should have any unintended air paths thoroughly and permanently sealed.

The laws of physics govern how moist air reacts within various temperature conditions. The study of the properties of moist air is technically referred to as “psychrometrics.” A psychrometric chart is used by professionals to determine at what temperature and moisture concentration water vapor begins to condense. This is called the “dew point.” By learning how to determine the dew point, you will better understand how to diagnose moisture problems in a house.Ventilating roofs in hot and humid conditions may add (rather than remove) moisture from attics and enclosed roof spaces. However, not ventilating roofs may void the asphalt-composition roofing manufacturer’s warranty, and slightly decrease the life expectancy of the roofing material due to increased temperature of the roof’s surface.

Recommended minimum widths for roof overhangs for one- and two-story wood-frame buildings are typically 12to 24 inches. For taller structures, larger roof overhangs are desirable. Alternatively, porch roofs and upperfloor overhangs can be used to protect lower-story walls.
Some jurisdictions do not regulate roof overhangs. Common problems with guttering are associated with installation and maintenance. Home inspectors can check ifproperly sized materials are being used, if guttering is appropriately sloped toward adequately sized downspouts,and if discharge is directed away from the building’s perimeter. Discharging water at inside building cornersshould be avoided. Some local storm water requirements may require special infiltration or filtration treatmentsof roof runoff.

The installation of even the most weather-resistant wall envelope system on a house does not diminish the need or proper installation, particularly with regard to flashing details at penetrations. In addition, the use of roof overhangs provides performance benefits for all cladding systems by reducing the moisture load experienced over time, and by allowing greater opportunities for walls to dry in the event of periodic wetting due to wind-driven rain. The life expectancy of various siding materials may vary widely, from 10 to as much as 100 years or more, depending on type of material, climate exposure, maintenance, and other factors.

water in basement by barrie home inspector

Face-Sealed: This type of WRE relies exclusively on the ability of the outer surface of the wall and joints around penetrations to deflect water and prevent it from penetrating the wall surface. If a defect in     the wall surface or joint detailing (such as caulk) exists or occurs over time, then water will penetrate and potentially accumulate in the wall, causing damage to any moisture-sensitive materials within the   assembly. One example of this type of system is known as conventional or barrier EIFS (exterior insulation finish system). However, building standards only allow the use of a new type of drainable EIFS      (i.e., drained cavity) on residential construction.

Assessing your buildings exposure can determine the amount of protection required. The terrain surrounding a building impacts its exposure to wind-driven rain. The ratio of roof overhang width to the   height of the protected wall below also alters the exposure of a building to weather and wind-driven rain. Long roof overhangs relative towall height effectively reduce the exposure. Similarly, increased shielding of the site against wind tends to reduce the effects of climate. Understanding the exposure in this manner can guide inspections of flashing details, the potential benefits of having greater overhangs installed, etc.

Many performance problems with windows and doors are related to installation issues. Installation directionsincluded with window and door units should be followed carefully. Home inspectors are not required to confirm compliance with a manufacturer’s recommendations. However, knowing the general guidelines and techniques for proper installation of windows and doors will assist the inspector in recognizing installation problems that may promote moisture intrusion.

Having your home inspected by a Certified Building Code Official will identify most common moisture issues and the Barrie Home Inspector is available to help identify and correct moisture issues in your home.

Home Inspection And Your Furnace

Heating, Home Inspection

Home Inspection And Your Furnace.  Typical Methods of inspecting your gas furnace by qualified inspectors will save you needless expenses and repairs. Home inspectors usually find either high efficiency or standard efficiency furnaces in most homes.  Up-draft furnaces are common while down-draft types are rarely seen.

Over the last 20 years, a new generation of higherefficiency gas furnaces and boilers has come to market. Anessential difference in the design of these units is howthey are vented, eliminating the need for dilution air. Thecombustion of gas produces certain by-products, includingwater vapour and carbon dioxide.

Eliminating the need for a chimney is the primary method of energy savings in high efficiency furnaces.  Heat loss and products of combustion through the chimney is significant.  Newer furnaces have an AFUE rating which is based on estimated energy consumption of unit for one year.  This is expressed as a percentage.

The newer designs have been modified to reduce the amount of heated air that escapes during the on and off cycles and by extracting more of the heat contained in the combustionby-products before they are vented.
Natural Gas Furnace Components which are inspected during home inspection or service call.  The typical Natural Gas furnaces are comprised of a cabinet, distribution system, heat exchanger, fan and controls and a thermostat.  There are many additions that can be added to a gas furnace which include, humidifiers, air cleaners and HRV’s.
Standard Inspection Steps performed by a Typical HomeInspector will include these four basic inspection steps:

1. Remove burner and fan cover with power turned off.
2. Check the heat exchanger.
3. Start the furnace and inspecting flame, exhaust system.
4. Check the duct system and air flow through ducts andreturn air systems.

Gas Furnace Age and Life Expectancy

Most gas furnaces are expected to last from 20 to 25 years. The heat exchanger is usually guaranteed for 20 years. Failure of heat exchanger usually means replacement of furnace.
Having your furnace regularly serviced by a trainedtechnician can greatly enhance its life expectency.

 
Learn more about Barrie HomeInspections.  Stop by Roger Frost’s site where you can find out all about Home Maintenance and Tips and what it can do for you.

Inspecting Commercial Buildings and Their Power Supply

Home Inspection

Inspecting Commercial Buildings and Their Power Supply –  Sharing a Transformer with neighbor  check with local hydro authority before planning any upgrades.

Electrical Power

In electrical engineering, single-phase electric power refers to the distribution of alternating current electric power using a system in which all the voltages of the supply vary in unison. Single-phase distribution is used when loads are mostly lighting and heating, with few large electric motors. A single-phase supply connected to an alternating current electric motor does not produce a revolving magnetic field; single-phase motors need additional circuits for starting, and such motors are uncommon above 10 or 20 kW in rating.
In contrast, in a three-phase system, the currents in each conductor reach their peak instantaneous values sequentially, not simultaneously; in each cycle of the power frequency, first one, then the second, then the third current reaches its maximum value. The waveforms of the three supply conductors are offset from one another in time (delayed in phase) by one-third of their period.

Defining the Terms

Amps vs. Volts:
Think of electricity as water flowing through a pipe. The amperage is analogous to the amount of water flowing through the pipe. Amperage is also called current. Larger diameter wires can handle more current, just as larger pipes can handle more flow.

Voltage is analogous to pressure, the force which moves the water through the pipe. A small pump (low voltage) would produce less pressure than a big pump (high voltage).

In most buildings the voltage will either be 208 volt (low voltage) or 600 volt (high voltage). The critical question is how much voltage and amperage the system is rated at, or in other words, how much equipment can I use in the building?

208 Volt vs. 600 Volt:
Most modern buildings are equipped with 600 volt services. Equipment such as air conditioning units (over 5 tons), larger exhaust fans, electric heaters, and some lighting will utilize 600 volts. However, standard outlets and most lighting operate at 208 volts.

In North America, individual residences and small commercial buildings with services up to about 100 kV·A (417 amperes at 240 volts) will usually have three-wire single-phase distribution, often with only one customer per distribution transformer. In exceptional cases larger single-phase three-wire services can be provided, usually only in remote areas where poly-phase distribution is not available. In rural areas farmers who wish to use three-phase motors may install a phase converter if only a single-phase supply is available. Larger consumers such as large buildings, shopping centers, factories, office blocks, and multiple-unit apartment blocks will have three-phase service. In densely populated areas of cities, network power distribution is used with many customers and many supply transformers connected to provide hundreds or thousands of kV·A, a load concentrated over a few hundred square meters.

Buildings equipped with 600 volt services will always have a transformer to reduce the 600 volts to 208 volts for the main building panels. These transformers are generally located near the main electrical service entrance.

When comparing the amount of power available for different voltages, a 200 amp, 600 volt service has nearly three times the power of a 200 amp, 208 volt service.

This is of less importance. All 208 volt and 600 volt services are three phase. This means there are three power wires coming into the building.

Single phase services may be found in older, smaller buildings and are found exclusively in houses.

In some older buildings you can find a single phase and a three phase service. This is usually identifiable, on the outside, by two separate services leading to the building.

Determining Amperage of Service

When you are inspecting the electrical room, the two items of information you are looking for; the are amperage and voltage. The presence of a transformer in the electrical room is usually indicative that it is 600 volts. They do make transformers that can used to step up a 208 volt service to 600 volts, for a specific piece of equipment.

What you should typically see is a small conduit (high voltage, low current) going into the transformer and a larger conduit (low voltage, high current) coming out and leading to a breaker panel or a splitter panel.

The ratings on the switches and splitter panel are not to be relied on; they only tell you the maximum amount of current or voltage the equipment can handle. Do not rely on the rating of the hydro meter(s), for the same reason.

The best way to verify the amperage is to open the door of the main power switch and read the rating of the main fuses. This is sometimes impossible to do without turning the power off, but is always dangerous, unless you know what you are doing. Even with the power off, half the box is live. You can end your real estate career, right there in somebody’s electrical room.

Reading the gauge (size) of the main power wires (in the meter cabinet or main splitter panel) can also help to determine the amperage of the service. The gauge number is typically printed on the wire sheathing. Common wire gauge sizes, for copper conductors and the allowable amperages are as follows:

Wire Gauge Allowable Amperage
3 100 amps
000 200 amps
350MCM 300 amps
500MCM 400 amps

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Why Decide On A Gas or Grills?

Home Inspection

Why Decide On A Gas or Grills?  Charcoal fired BBQ grills are often a real nuisance to fire up and in some places or seasons you are going to be constrained from using them. Also, in case you live in a apartment or would like to own an indoor grill then they are surely just not a alternative. As an alternative electric, natural or propane gas barbecue grills are considerably more convenient and appropriate for all areas, seasons and for indoor or outdoor use. There are kettles and single or double box-shaped models that use natural or bottled gas. You will discover on both of these kinds of grills a griddle plate which is used for direct cooking and is perfect for cooking foods which can be high in fats like sausages and hamburgers or food that may be either very small, delicate, or awkward to control over the open grill. Both the electric, natural or propane gas models save you the difficulty of building the fire and also cleaning up the ashes. Since most of these units need only a brief preheating time, there is certainly little waiting for the barbecue grill once the food is prepared to cook.

For a few people, the option of the electric char grill is simply a matter of convenience. When using the electric outdoor or indoor barbecue grills, plugging the cord into an outlet and allowing for preheating is all that is necessary to start your barbecue. There isn’t any need to mess with connecting gas bottles or having to get the charcoal beads to fire up. You may get large electric barbecue grills that sit on a stand with wheels, in addition there are ones with hoods and volcanic rocks for that char grill smokey aroma.

Indoors, permanently installed gas or electrical char-grills are often positioned near range tops so that they can share the existing overhead exhaust fan. Certain barbecues have their own, though.

natural gas grill are simple to work with and also little upkeep, for bbq char grills that use propane cylinders you just have got to be certain that you do not run out of gas. Volcanic rock is commonly spread out beneath the barbecue grill and is heated by gas burners to give the food an genuine char-grill flavor. Rotisserie cooking can also be an option for many of the larger gas barbecue char grills. Just make certain you turn the gas off at the bottle whenever you have finished cooking to avoid any likelihood of a gas leak.

Out of your two sorts of gas bbq grills the natural gas grills are more convenient as they save you the time and cost of needing to drive to your nearest LP gas depot to fill up your gas bottle and also you will never run out of gas half way through a BBQ. In addition natural gas is a great deal cheaper and burns a lot cleaner then propane gas.

Here are some basic tools you need for everyday use of the barbecue; a long fork and tong for for turning and removing the foodstuff of the barbecue grills once it is ready; a stiff metal brush for scrubbing the grill; heatproof proper gloves for emergency adjustment for the grill or spit, and long handled spatulas; metal skews for cooking kebabs, wooden skews are okay when cooking on a griddle, but not a open char grill under a naked flame.

When you’ve got a fire flare and your barbecue grill is a natural gas type, close the gas mains line, extinguish any open flame. if the smell continues, immediately phone your gas provider or fire department.

You can find a large range of Electric Grills available to you. Drop in on our review site Natural Gas Grill to see the top critical reviews.

Barrie Home Inspector

Home Inspection

Barrie Home InspectorThe Barrie Home Inspector has been inspecting Commercial and Residential properties for over 15 years. As a Certified Building Code Official registered with the Ontario Building Officials Association his qualifications far exceed most Home Inspectors basic requirements.

Although many Home Inspection Companies advertise as the Barrie Home Inspector, only Roger Frost has the licensed name Barrie Home Inspector. The advantage of having experience in the business and the knowledge to make informed decisions.

The Barrie Home Inspector is a former home builder who was registered with HUDAC, which has now been replace with Tarion home building warranty program. Seven years as Project Review of all Renovations and New Construction with DND provided an unequaled opportunity to be involved with Project Design and Inspection on projects ranging from ,000′s of dollars to millions of dollar accommodation buildings.

Through out his career, Roger Frost has taken many specialized and building related courses that all are applicable to Commercial and Home inspections. Roger has inspected over 3,000 residential buildings and performed Commercial Building inspections from as far south as Simcoe Ontario to Huntville in the North.

Providing his client with the information they need to make an informed decision is the basis of the Barrie Home Inspector’s business. Having the knowledge to observe the deficiencies or possible failures of systems in not enough, being able to convey that to the client is of paramount importance. The Barrie Home Inspector’s report is precise and detailed, being broken down into individual building systems and areas. All deficiencies are photographed and included in a computerized report for the customers review.

We do not provide concrete financial replacement or repair costs because the nature of the contracting business is such that there are so many variables involved that a accurate price structure really does depend on the individual. We do make note and take pictures of every deficiency so that you will be able to discern the condition of the proposed purchase property.

Experience does matter and when you are making your next real estate investment, whether Commercial or Residential, ensure your Inspector has the qualifications and experience to make you an informed buyer.

Always remember Caveat Emptor – Buyer Beware

Large Buildings and Fire Protection

Home Inspection

The importance of fire protection has been proven over and over again when lives have been lost in large buildings whose fire protection equipment has been either compromised or disabled for various reasons. One large fire in a high rise, which started in café on first floor, which contributed to lost lives, was blamed on missing fire-stopping. Such a small failure can have disastrous consequences

Asphalt Shingles – Types and Use

Home Inspection

Asphalt Shingles – Types and Use.  Two types of asphalt shingles are used: organic and fiberglass or glass fiber. Organic shingles are generally paper (waste paper) saturated with asphalt to make it waterproof, then a top coating of adhesive asphalt is applied and ceramic granules are then embedded. In the case of algae-resistant shingles, a portion of the granules contain leachable copper ceramically coated, designed to protect against discoloration from algae on the roof. This does not protect from moss growth but does slow the growth. Moss feeds on algae and any other debris on the roof. Most manufactures offer a 5- to 10-year warranty against algae growth.

Shingles are judged by warranty and ASTM test standards. Organic shingles contain around 40% more asphalt per square (100 sq ft.) than fiberglass shingles. But this extra needed asphalt makes them less environmentally friendly. The paper-based nature of “organic” shingles leaves them more prone to fire damage, and their highest FM rating for fire is class “B”. Shingle durability is ranked by warranted life, ranging from 20 years to 50 years; in some cases lifetime warranties are available.

Fiberglass shingles have a base layer of glass fiber reinforcing mat. The mat is made from wet, random-laid fiberglass bonded with urea-formaldehyde resin. The mat is then coated with asphalt which contains mineral fillers and makes the fiberglass shingle waterproof. Fiberglass shingles typically obtain a class “A” fire rating as the fiberglass mat resists fire better than organic/paper mats. Fiberglass reinforcement was devised as the replacement for asbestos paper reinforcement of roofing shingles and typically ranges from 1.8 to 2.3 pounds/square foot.

The older organic (wood and paper pulp product) versions were very durable and hard to tear, an important property when considering wind uplift of shingles in heavy storms. Fiberglass is slowly replacing felt reinforcement in Canada and has replaced mostly all in the United States. Widespread hurricane damage in Florida during the 1990s prompted the industry to adhere to a 1700-gram tear value on finished asphalt shingles.

A newer design of fiberglass asphalt shingle, called laminated or architectural, uses two distinct layers which are bonded together with asphalt sealant. Laminate shingles are heavier, more expensive, and more durable than traditional 3-tab shingle designs. Laminated shingles also give a more varied, contoured visual effect to a roof surface.

Traditionally, asphalt — also called composition — shingles were made by saturating a heavy layer of building felt (made from organic fibers) with asphalt. These asphalt-felt shingles have largely been
supplanted by fiberglass-based shingles. Instead of building felt, they have a fiberglass base impregnated with the asphalt. These shingles are more durable and will last twice as long as the felt-based shingles. In addition to the asphalt coating, the shingles also have a layer of ceramic and hard mineral granules. This layer adds color to the roofing material, but its main function is to protect the asphalt base from the intense ultraviolet radiation of the sun. The asphalt-saturated base is relatively impervious to rain and snow, but without the mineral coating it would quickly break down when exposed to the sun.

People assume that most roof damage comes from the wind, rain and snow. Indeed, these elements eventually erode the granular coating from the shingles, but it is the intense heat of the sun that does the
real damage. Thus the longevity of the roof covering is often determined by the amount of sunlight it is exposed to. On many houses the shingles on the northern side of the roof last longer than those on the
southern side, because they receive less sunlight. For the same reason, houses in the Southern states usually need roof replacement before those in the Northern states.
Other than planting shade trees near the house, there is little you can do to shield your roof from the sun. You can, however, make sure that the attic remains cool so that heat cannot rise through the sheathing to attack the shingles. The best way to do this is by installing vents in the attic. Adding soffit and ridge vents, for example, will allow cool air to enter under the eaves, flow along the underside of the roof and exit at the peak. This circulating air can lower roof temperatures by up to 20 degrees.

The protective nature of asphalt shingles primarily comes from the long-chain hydrocarbons impregnating the paper. Over time in the hot sun, the hydrocarbons soften and when rain falls the hydrocarbons are
gradually washed out of the shingles and down onto the ground. Along eaves and complex roof lines more water is channeled so in these areas the loss occurs more quickly. Eventually the loss of the heavy
oils causes the fibers to shrink, exposing the nail heads under the shingle flaps. The shrinkage also breaks up the surface coating of sand adhered to the surface of the paper, and eventually causes the
paper to begin to tear itself apart. Once the nail heads are exposed, water running down the roof can seep into the building around the nail shank, resulting in rotting of roof building materials and causing
moisture damage to ceilings and paint inside.

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