Barrie Home Inspector

Home Maintenance and Tips for Home Owners

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Lawn Care and Pesticide Use in Ontario

Exterior

Lawn Care and Pesticide Use in Ontario.  Picture a healthy green lawn: perfect for lounging, great for ball games and cookouts, a real asset to your home. But did you know that your lawn-and how you take care of it-can also help the environment?

* Healthy grass provides feeding ground for birds, who find it a rich source of insects, worms, and other food. Thick grass prevents soil erosion, filters contaminants from rainwater, and absorbs many types of airborne pollutants, like dust and soot. Grass is also highly efficient at converting carbon dioxide to oxygen, a process that helps clean the air.

* Caring for your lawn properly can both enhance its appearance and contribute to its environmental benefits.

You don’t have to be an expert to grow a healthy lawn. Just keep in mind that the secret is to work with nature. This means creating conditions for grass to thrive and resist damage from weeds, disease, and insect pests. It means setting realistic goals for your lawn, whether you or a professional lawn care service will be doing the work. And if you choose to use pesticides, it means using them with care so as to get the most benefit and reduce any risks.

* Caring for your lawn in an environmentally sensible way can have a bigger impact than you might think. Your lawn is only a small piece of land, but all the lawns across the country cover a lot of ground. That means you and your lawn care activities, along with everyone else’s can make a difference to the environment. And that’s why taking care of the environment begins in our own backyards.

Working With Nature: A Preventive Health Care Program For Your Lawn

To start, think about lawn care as a preventive health care program, like one you would use to keep up your own health. The idea is to prevent problems from occurring so you don’t have to treat them. As they say, an ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure. A healthy lawn can out-compete most weeds, survive most insect attacks, and fend off most diseases-before these problems ever get the upper hand. Your lawn care program should be tailored to local conditions-the amount of rainfall you get, for example, and the type of soil you have. The sources listed at the back of this brochure can help you design a lawn care program that suits both local conditions and your own particular needs. But no matter where you live, you can use the program outlined in this brochure as a general guide to growing a healthy lawn.

A preventive health care program for your lawn should have the following steps:

1. Develop healthy soil
2. Choose a grass type that thrives in your climate
3. Mow high, often, and with sharp blades
4. Water deeply but not too often
5. Correct thatch build-up
6. Set realistic goals

Develop Healthy Soil

Good soil is the foundation of a healthy lawn. To grow well, your lawn needs soil with good texture, some key nutrients, and the right pH, or acidity/alkalinity balance. Start by checking the texture of your soil to see whether it’s heavy with clay, light and sandy, or somewhere in between. Lawns grow best in soil with intermediate or “loamy” soils that have a mix of clay, silt, and sand. Whatever soil type you have, you can probably improve it by periodically adding organic matter like compost, manure, or grass clippings. Organic matter helps to lighten a predominantly clay soil and it helps sandy soil retain water and nutrients.

Also check to see if your soil is packed down from lots of use or heavy clay content. This makes it harder for air and water to penetrate, and for grass roots to grow. To loosen compacted soil, some lawns may need to be aerated several times a year. This process involves pulling out plugs of soil to create air spaces, so water and nutrients can again penetrate to the grass roots.

Most lawns need to be fertilized every year, because they need more nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium than soils usually contain. These three elements are the primary ingredients found in most lawn fertilizers. It’s important not to over-fertilize-you could do more harm to your lawn than good-and it’s best to use a slow-release fertilizer that feeds the lawn slowly. It’s also important to check the soil’s pH. Grass is best able to absorb nutrients in a slightly acidic soil, with a pH of 6.5 to 7.0. Soil that is too acidic can be “sweetened” with lime; soil that’s not acid enough can be made more sour by adding sulfur.

Have your soil tested periodically to see whether it needs more organic matter or the pH needs adjusting. Your county extension agent (listed in your phone book under county government) or local nursery should be able to tell you how to do this. These experts can also help you choose the right fertilizer, compost, and other “soil amendments,” and they can advise you about aerating if your soil is compacted. If a professional service takes care of your lawn, make sure it takes these same steps to develop good soil. There’s no getting around it: your lawn’s health is only as good as the soil it grows in.

Choose A Grass Type That Thrives In Your Climate

The right type of grass-one that suits your needs and likes the local weather-will always give better results. Grasses vary in the type of climate they prefer, the amount of water and nutrients they need, their resistance to pests, their tolerance for shade, and the degree of wear they can withstand.

If you are putting in a new lawn, it will be worth your while to do some research to identify the best grass type for your needs. If you’re working with an established lawn that fails to thrive despite proper care, you might consider replanting with a different type of grass.

Why struggle to grow grass that’s susceptible to fungal disease if you live in a humid climate? Or a water loving species if you live in an area with water shortages? Grass that is well adapted to your area will grow better and resist local pests and diseases better.

New grass varieties and mixtures come out on the market every year. Ask your county extension agent or another one of the sources listed in this brochure for recommendations.

Mow High, Often and With Sharp Blades

Mowing high-that is, keeping your lawn a bit long-will produce stronger, healthier grass with fewer pest problems. Longer grass has more leaf surface to take in sunlight. This enables it to grow thicker and develop a deeper root system, which in turn helps the grass survive drought, tolerate insect damage, and fend off diseases. Longer grass also shades the soil surface keeping it cooler, helping it retain moisture, and making it difficult for weeds to germinate and grow.

A lawn’s ideal length will vary with the type of grass, but many turf grass species are healthiest when kept between 2-1/2 and 3-1/2 inches. You may have to readjust your mower-most are set too low.

It’s also important to mow with sharp blades to prevent tearing and injuring the grass. And it’s best to mow often, because grass adjusts better to frequent than infrequent mowing. The rule of thumb is to mow often enough that you never cut more than one-third of the height of the grass blades. Save some time and help your lawn and the environment by leaving short clippings on the grass-where they recycle nitrogen-rather than sending them in bags to the landfill.

You don’t have to grow a foot-high meadow to get good results. Just adding an inch will give most lawns a real boost.

Water Deeply But Not Too Often

Watering properly will help your lawn grow deep roots that make it stronger and less vulnerable to drought. Most lawns are watered too often but with too little water. It’s best to water only when the lawn really needs it, and then to water slowly and deeply. This trains the grass roots down. Frequent shallow watering trains the roots to stay near the surface, making the lawn less able to find moisture during dry periods.

Every lawn’s watering needs are unique: they depend on local rainfall, the grass and soil type, and the general health of the lawn. But even in very dry areas, no established home lawn should require daily watering.

Try to water your lawn in a way that imitates a slow, soaking rain, by using trickle irrigation, soaker hoses, or other water-conserving methods. It’s also best to water in the early morning, especially during hot summer months, to reduce evaporation. Apply about an inch of water-enough that it soaks 6-8 inches into the soil. Then let the lawn dry out thoroughly before watering it again.

The best rule is to water only when the lawn begins to wilt from dryness-when the color dulls and footprints stay compressed for more than a few seconds.

Correct Thatch Build-Up

All grass forms a layer of dead plant material, known as thatch, between the grass blades and the soil. When thatch gets too thick-deeper than one-half inch-it prevents water and nutrients from penetrating to the soil and grass roots. Some grasses tend to form a thick layer of thatch. Overuse of fertilizer can also create a heavy layer of thatch. You can reduce thatch by raking the lawn or using a machine that slices through the thatch layer to break it up. Sprinkling a thin layer of topsoil or compost over the lawn will also help.

In a healthy lawn, microorganisms and earthworms help keep the thatch layer in balance by decomposing it and releasing the nutrients into the soil.

Set Realistic Goals

Setting realistic goals will allow you to conduct an environmentally sensible lawn care program. It’s probably not necessary to aim for putting-green perfection. Did you know that a lawn with 15 percent weeds can look practically weed-free to the average observer? Even a healthy lawn is likely to have some weeds or insect pests. But it will also have beneficial insects and other organisms that help keep pests under control. Also realize that grass just can’t grow well in certain spots. Why fight a losing battle with your lawn, when you have other options? At the base of a tree, for example, you might have better luck with wood chips or shade-loving ornamental plants like ivy, periwinkle, or pachysandra. If your climate is very dry, consider converting some of your lawn to dry-garden landscaping. It could save time, money, and water resources.

What Is IPM?

Integrated Pest Management is essentially common-sense pest control. IPM is not a new concept; some forms of it have been practiced for centuries.

IPM involves the carefully managed use of three different pest control tactics-biological, cultural, and chemical-to get the best long-term results with the least disruption of the environment. Biological control means using natural enemies of the pest, like lady bugs to control aphids. Cultural or horticultural control involves the use of gardening methods, like mowing high to shade out weeds. Chemical control involves the judicious use of pesticides. IPM is a highly effective approach that minimizes the use of pesticides and maximizes the use of natural processes. Lawn care professionals who use IPM should have a sophisticated understanding of the ecosystem of your turf and the available pest control tactics. Home gardeners can also practice IPM by following the steps outlined in this article.

Tips For Using Pesticides

Sometimes, even with good lawn care practices, weather conditions or other factors can cause pest problems to develop. Pesticides can help control many lawn pests. But pesticides have risks as well as benefits, and it’s important to use them properly.

The chemicals we call pesticides include insecticides, herbicides, and fungicides. These products are designed to kill or control pest insects, weeds, and fungal diseases. Pesticides can be very effective. But don’t be tempted to rely solely on pesticides as a quick-fix solution to any lawn problem. Serious, ongoing pest problems are often a sign that your lawn is not getting everything it needs. In other words, the pests may be a symptom of an underlying problem. You need to correct the underlying problem to reduce the chance that the pest will reappear. All pesticides are toxic to some degree. This means they can pose some risk to you, to your children and pets, and to any wildlife that venture onto your lawn-especially if these chemicals are overused or carelessly applied. Pesticides can also kill earthworms and other beneficial organisms, disrupting the ecological balance of your lawn.

Store pesticides out of children’s reach in a locked cabinet or garden shed.

When Spraying, Protect your skin, your eyes, and your lungs. Wash this clothing separately before using it again.

Before Using Any Pesticide, Be Sure To Review These Basic Rules

1. Take safety precautions. Never assume a pesticide is harmless.
* Read the entire label and follow its instructions. Use only the amount directed, at the time and under the conditions specified, and for the purpose listed.
* Be sure to wear any protective clothing-like gloves, long sleeves, and long pants-indicated on the label. Wash this clothing separately before using it again.
* Keep children and pets away from pesticides, and make sure no one goes on a treated lawn for at least the time prescribed by the pesticide label.
* Remember to follow any state or local requirements for posting your treated lawn or notifying your neighbors that a pesticide has been applied.
* Store and dispose of pesticides properly, according to the label directions and any state and local regulations.

2. Use pesticides to minimize pests, not eradicate them. The latter is often impossible and unnecessary.

3. Be sure you have accurately identified the pest so you can choose the best pesticide for the job and use it most effectively. Obtain professional advice from your county extension agent or a local expert.

4. Spot treat whenever possible. In most cases, it isn’t necessary to treat the whole lawn with pesticides if the problem is confined to certain areas. Spraying more than necessary is wasteful and can be environmentally damaging.

If you have questions about a pesticide, call EPA’s toll free National Pesticide Telecommunications Network (1-800-858-7378). For general information on minimizing pesticide risks, call or write EPA for a free copy of the Citizen’s Guide to Pesticides. The number to call is 703-305-5017; the address is: EPA, Office of Pesticide Programs, Field Operations Division, H7506C, 401M Street, S.W., Washington, D.C. 20460.

Choosing A Lawn Care Service

Many people choose to hire a professional company to help maintain their lawn. Lawn care companies offer a range of services, from fertilizing and pest control to aerating, mowing, and renovation.

Lawn care companies should follow the same healthy lawn program outlined in this brochure. They should also follow the same precautions for minimizing pesticide risks.

How can you be sure that a service will do these things?

Start by asking questions like these:

Q. Is the company licensed?
A. Nearly all states require lawn care companies to be licensed. The qualifications for obtaining a license vary from state to state, but having a license is one indication that the company is reputable and operating legally.
Q. Does the company have a good track record?
A. Ask neighbors and friends who have dealt with the company if they were satisfied with the service they received.

Call the Better Business Bureau or the state or local consumer protection office listed in your phone book; have they received any complaints about the company? Determine from the state pesticide regulatory agency if the company has a history of violations.

Q. Is the company affiliated with a professional lawn care association?
A. Affiliation with a professional association helps members to stay informed of new developments in the lawn care field.
Q. Does the company offer a variety of pest management approaches? Does it apply pesticides on a set schedule or only when they are really needed? Does it use integrated pest management, or “IPM”-an approach that often reduces pesticide use by combining it with other, non- chemical methods of pest control?
A. More and more lawn companies are offering integrated pest management (IPM) in response to public concern about pesticides. Be aware that IPM is a general term and that companies may use it to describe a wide range of activities. Find out exactly what a company means if it says it uses IPM.
Q. Is the company willing to help you understand your lawn’s problems and the solutions?
A. Lawn services generally apply fertilizers and pesticides. But you may be the one who mows and waters-and poor watering and mowing practices can lead to disappointing results. The company should tell you how it plans to take care of your lawn, and advise you about the work you need to do to keep your lawn in good shape.
Q. Will the company tell you what pesticides it applies to your lawn and why, and what health and environmental risks may be presented by their use?
A. You have a right to this information. If asked, the company should readily supply it. All pesticides sold legally in the United States are registered by EPA, but such registration is not a guarantee of safety. Ask to see a copy of pesticide labels to make sure they bear an EPA registration number, and to review the directions that should be followed. If the company can’t answer your questions about the chemicals it uses, call NPTN (1-800-858-7378) for more information.

Ontario Home Owners Special Considerations

Under Ontario’s cosmetic pesticides ban, which came into effect on April 22, 2009, consumers can purchase and use biopesticides and certain lower risk pesticides for cosmetic purposes to manage weeds, insects and plant diseases.

Consumers can also purchase and use pesticides for public health or safety reasons such as fighting West Nile Virus, killing stinging insects like wasps, or to control poison ivy and other plant poisonous to human touch.

New Requirements for Controlled Sale (Class 7) Pesticides

As of April 22, 2011, controlled sale pesticides will not be readily accessible to members of the public. Purchasers of controlled sale pesticides will need to speak to a store employee for service. For example, some stores may store their controlled sale pesticides behind a staffed counter or in locked cabinets or cages that can only be unlocked by staff.

Controlled Sale Pesticides Handouts

Purchasers of controlled sale pesticides must receive written information, approved by the ministry, at the time of purchase. This information will describe uses allowed under the ban.

Some retailers will provide the Ministry of the Environment’s Controlled Sale (Class 7) Handout or the Class 7 Handout Domestic Products (2009 version) or the Controlled Sale (Class 7) Bear Repellent Handout to purchasers of products containing capsaicin for repelling bears.

Other retailers may choose to incorporate the applicable Ministry of the Environment-approved wording into cash register receipts or to provide handouts to consumers.

Homemade Pesticides

Homemade pesticides are illegal and may pose a risk to you, your garden and the environment. More information is available through Health Canada.

Check out the Homeowners and Gardeners Fact Sheet for more information about:

Allowed pesticide uses
Hiring a licensed exterminator to maintain the health of trees, lawns and gardens.
Check out the Private Land and Woodlot Owners Fact Sheet for information about:

The arboriculture exception to maintain the health of trees
The forestry use exception to protect trees from pests and competing vegetation
Check out the Community Gardeners Fact Sheet for information about specific requirements for those who grow vegetables or other plants on public land such as plots or allotments in hydro corridors.

For help with your chemical-free garden, check out the Ontario Ministry of Agriculture, Food and Rural Affairs’ Online Gardener’s Handbook.

For help with pest problems using pesticides allowed under the ban, check out Managing Pests in Lawns and Gardens.

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Uni-stone Pavers and Polymeric Sand

Exterior

Uni-stone Pavers and Polymeric Sand.  Polymeric sand is what professional uni-stone installers use to ensure a filler that is not bothered by the erosion of seasonal weather.

Wnen you open up a bag of polymeric sand and you find it looks like ordinary, free-flowing sand, but it is how it behaves when you put it down. But unlike regular sand, the polymeric product firms up in reaction with water and forms a barrier unlike using normal sand.

Installing polymeric sand is not that complicated and if you follow the instructions below will be fairly simple.

When you are installing polymeric sand in a new paving brick installation? There’s nothing different you need to do while putting the bricks down. If you’ve got an existing pathway that had ordinary sand applied originally, then you need to clean out all the gaps of old sand with a pressure washer. You must create a brand new installation, minus the laying of pavers of course. The main thing to understand about polymeric sand is that it must be installed on a dry surface.

Polymeric sand is activated by water, and it turns quite liquid even with a little moisture. You need dry conditions, with no chance of rain for a day. Check with weather man before starting project.

Spreading polymeric sand begins the same as with normal paver installation. Pour a thin layer as smoothly as possible over the whole pathway surface, then use a stiff-bristled push broom to spread the sand around and begin working it into the gaps.

The trick is to use a a gas-powered vibrator afterwards. This vibrates the sand deep down into the gaps, an essential part of any long-lasting installation.

The broom alone might seem to do a good job, but don’t be fooled. It actually leaves behind hidden gaps that lead to sand collapse later. Don’t skip the compactor.

With all brick gaps fully filled with sand, you’re about to face the most important part of the job: pre-activation cleaning. Since poly sand turns goopy when wet, you must have the surface of the bricks completely and absolutely clean before applying water.

Any sand remaining on the surface will mar the appearance of the brick, so be diligent. Use a soft-bristled broom to move all remaining surface sand into the gaps, going over the surface at least twice, just to make sure.

Now it’s time to activate the sand, and success here requires finesse. You need to gently apply a fine spray of water to moisten the sand, but not so much that it moves any sand up and out of the brick gaps.

It’s a balancing act, so be careful. After an initial misting, let the sand begin to firm up for 15 or 20 minutes, then add more water while watching carefully. Before you’re done, you need to apply enough water to wet the entire depth of sand you’ve added. This could take three or four or five wettings, just be careful.

The danger is that you apply water too fast, causing surface sand to be washed out of the gaps and onto the bricks. When you think you’ve wet the surface enough, take a framing nail or three-inch deck screw and burrow down into a joint gap just to be sure. If it’s not wet all the way, keep up the misting and pausing cycle.

Polymeric sand isn’t foolproof, and it doesn’t eliminate all the problems encountered with regular sand, but it’s still more than worthwhile. Use it to get the most from your paving brick installation and you’ll spend more time enjoying the look, without fretting that ordinary sand washes away so easily.

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Inspecting Commercial Buildings and Their Power Supply

Home Inspection

Inspecting Commercial Buildings and Their Power Supply –  Sharing a Transformer with neighbor  check with local hydro authority before planning any upgrades.

Electrical Power

In electrical engineering, single-phase electric power refers to the distribution of alternating current electric power using a system in which all the voltages of the supply vary in unison. Single-phase distribution is used when loads are mostly lighting and heating, with few large electric motors. A single-phase supply connected to an alternating current electric motor does not produce a revolving magnetic field; single-phase motors need additional circuits for starting, and such motors are uncommon above 10 or 20 kW in rating.
In contrast, in a three-phase system, the currents in each conductor reach their peak instantaneous values sequentially, not simultaneously; in each cycle of the power frequency, first one, then the second, then the third current reaches its maximum value. The waveforms of the three supply conductors are offset from one another in time (delayed in phase) by one-third of their period.

Defining the Terms

Amps vs. Volts:
Think of electricity as water flowing through a pipe. The amperage is analogous to the amount of water flowing through the pipe. Amperage is also called current. Larger diameter wires can handle more current, just as larger pipes can handle more flow.

Voltage is analogous to pressure, the force which moves the water through the pipe. A small pump (low voltage) would produce less pressure than a big pump (high voltage).

In most buildings the voltage will either be 208 volt (low voltage) or 600 volt (high voltage). The critical question is how much voltage and amperage the system is rated at, or in other words, how much equipment can I use in the building?

208 Volt vs. 600 Volt:
Most modern buildings are equipped with 600 volt services. Equipment such as air conditioning units (over 5 tons), larger exhaust fans, electric heaters, and some lighting will utilize 600 volts. However, standard outlets and most lighting operate at 208 volts.

In North America, individual residences and small commercial buildings with services up to about 100 kV·A (417 amperes at 240 volts) will usually have three-wire single-phase distribution, often with only one customer per distribution transformer. In exceptional cases larger single-phase three-wire services can be provided, usually only in remote areas where poly-phase distribution is not available. In rural areas farmers who wish to use three-phase motors may install a phase converter if only a single-phase supply is available. Larger consumers such as large buildings, shopping centers, factories, office blocks, and multiple-unit apartment blocks will have three-phase service. In densely populated areas of cities, network power distribution is used with many customers and many supply transformers connected to provide hundreds or thousands of kV·A, a load concentrated over a few hundred square meters.

Buildings equipped with 600 volt services will always have a transformer to reduce the 600 volts to 208 volts for the main building panels. These transformers are generally located near the main electrical service entrance.

When comparing the amount of power available for different voltages, a 200 amp, 600 volt service has nearly three times the power of a 200 amp, 208 volt service.

This is of less importance. All 208 volt and 600 volt services are three phase. This means there are three power wires coming into the building.

Single phase services may be found in older, smaller buildings and are found exclusively in houses.

In some older buildings you can find a single phase and a three phase service. This is usually identifiable, on the outside, by two separate services leading to the building.

Determining Amperage of Service

When you are inspecting the electrical room, the two items of information you are looking for; the are amperage and voltage. The presence of a transformer in the electrical room is usually indicative that it is 600 volts. They do make transformers that can used to step up a 208 volt service to 600 volts, for a specific piece of equipment.

What you should typically see is a small conduit (high voltage, low current) going into the transformer and a larger conduit (low voltage, high current) coming out and leading to a breaker panel or a splitter panel.

The ratings on the switches and splitter panel are not to be relied on; they only tell you the maximum amount of current or voltage the equipment can handle. Do not rely on the rating of the hydro meter(s), for the same reason.

The best way to verify the amperage is to open the door of the main power switch and read the rating of the main fuses. This is sometimes impossible to do without turning the power off, but is always dangerous, unless you know what you are doing. Even with the power off, half the box is live. You can end your real estate career, right there in somebody’s electrical room.

Reading the gauge (size) of the main power wires (in the meter cabinet or main splitter panel) can also help to determine the amperage of the service. The gauge number is typically printed on the wire sheathing. Common wire gauge sizes, for copper conductors and the allowable amperages are as follows:

Wire Gauge Allowable Amperage
3 100 amps
000 200 amps
350MCM 300 amps
500MCM 400 amps

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Different Materials to Use for Basement Flooring

Basements

Different Materials to Use for Basement Flooring.  Basement flooring is obviously the foundation of the process of remodeling your basement. If basement flooring is not done right, you are just going to waste money and effort in trying to make your whole basement look good. The great thing is that there are several options on how you can have a beautiful, worth it flooring.

Water is Enemy

Water in whatever form – be it from underground moisture or drainage issues – is a bane to basements. Before doing any remodeling, have your basement drainage system checked thoroughly and fixed by a plumber. You’d not want it to have a well created basement only to understand that water starts to creep in. Sometimes water slippage can come from the exterior drainage outside the house.

Due to the damp nature of most basements, moisture is really a usual headache. Moisture can cause stains to tile floor, mildews and molds to carpet floor and damage to plywood and hardwood floor. At any rate, moisture can weaken the bond of the adhesive utilized to stick whatever flooring material you’ve. Thus, prior to totally performing any remodeling, do precautionary tests on the wetness of the floor.

Test the Floor

One way to test the wetness or the moisture level of the floor is to use a waterproof material that is about 4 inches-by-4 inches in size. Place flat the waterproof material, preferably the type of flooring that you have in mind to use, on the basement floor. Seal it in such a way that no air gets in. Put it in several corners of the floor walls and one in the center area of the floor. Leave it for at least a day and then check if there is any moisture coming in.

If you notice any type of moisture, then you need to figure out and fix the floor issue first before proceeding with remodeling. It also means that your floor is naturally damp. At this point, it is ideal if you ask the opinion and suggestion of a basement flooring expert. You can probably make do by changing the type of flooring material to be utilized or install a vapor barrier.

Flooring Materials

There is no such thing as perfect flooring material. It is always a case-to-case basis. It also depends on the desired look and really feel that you want for your basement. Whilst that being stated, here are some typical flooring options and their usual attributes:

1. Wooden Subfloor – It’s inexpensive but is prone to rotting when there’s no vaporizing barrier installed.

2. Carpet – It’s extremely easy to install but is prone to mildew and molds.

3. Painting the Subfloor – You can do it your self in the event you know how you can paint walls. But you may need to keep re-painting after a couple of months.

4. Stained Basement Floor – This gives you room to be very creative with several styles and colors obtainable. But you may have to invest a bit much more compared to, say, using a wooden material.

5. Tiled Floor – This also allows you much more room for creativity and is a viable option for wet basements. But this material would not help a lot in lessening the coldness of the floor so you may need to use rugs.

Another essential consideration with regards to basement flooring is if who’s performing the flooring function: you or a hired expert? If it’s you, keep in mind that tiles and stained basement floor might take more effort to haul and install. The latter supplies also need specialized skills and equipments.

Find out more about basement finishing system. Explore more online sources on basement finishing systems.

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Relevant Facts And Items To Know About A Drain Field Septic System

Plumbing

Relevant Facts And Items To Know About A Drain Field Septic System.  Sometimes known as a leach drain or leach field, a drain field septic system can be quite a process. The components of this system are basically three pieces. These pieces are a septic tank, the septic field drain, and the pipes for the flow. The purpose of this system is to filter the liquid that comes from the tank, removing any contamination that might be included.

The most useful reason to have one of these systems is to breakdown and get rid of organic waste in a special microbe environment. The setup of this product uses a series of drains that have pipes placed in them. These pipes have various holes placed in them and they are placed in the trench with gravel or some other type of porous substance.

The top of the trench is covered with some type of soil to keep surface water or animals from interacting with the wastewater for the trenches. Within this type of system there are two major designs that can be used. The hydraulic design is best when used to dispose of a large amount of wastewater and catabolic can be used for long term demand of the water.

The first step before starting on your hydraulic design is to perform a percolation test in the sewage treatment systems. This test gives the designer the ability to see the rate of flow within the soil and determine if the area is proper enough to be used. In many locations it is mandatory to administer the test by the local health department.

The reason that such procedures are in place is to stop disease plagued viruses or bacteria from reaching the surface water. This septic system is best because disinfectants would kill the microbes in the tank and stop the catabolizing of the wastewater. A field drain holds the pathogens long enough to deactivate them.

The type of soil is very important to the effectiveness of the field lines. If you have a sand or gravel mixture the filtration would not take enough time to kill the harmful bacteria before it made it to the surface water. A silt and clay mixture works best holding the bacteria long enough to assure it is dead.

The design is appropriately for the support of microbes that are aerobic in the soil environment. This type of microbe has the chance to decompose the material that is anaerobic in the tank that contains aerobic water.

A biofilter used in conjunction with a septic tank can drastically reduce the area of the drain field. This device allows for many positive things to come out of its function. Residential construction can be increased in an area with a minimal disturbance of the site. There is much more usable land in the area for trees, landscaping, swimming pools, or other types of gardens. Even though it does not reduce the amount of liquid into the soil, it does cut down on oxygen demand.

Even with such an efficient process there are still things that you need to keep out of your tank. Cleaning supplies will start to kill the helpful microbes causing a slow down in your production. Petroleum based products and dissolved metals also put a strain on the environment.

When doing research for the drain field septic system, consider Pinnacle Environmental Technologies INC for the best outcomes. The Canada grease interceptors company offers environmentally friendly septic tank systems for commercial, residential or mobile use.

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Smoke Detectors Required in RV’s and Trailers in Ontario

Electricity

Smoke Detectors Required in RV’s and Trailers in Ontario.  An excerpt from the Ontario Fire Marshall’s Office identifies the requirement for Smoke Detectors to be installed in RV’s and Trailers in Ontario. This would also apply to tourists that are visiting the Province.

During the past two weeks, two men have died in separate trailer fires in Ontario. It has been confirmed by Office of the Fire Marshal investigators that no working smoke alarms were recovered from either trailer. Fires in these types of seasonal homes can spread incredibly fast.

As a result of these tragic fatal fires, the Fire Marshal of Ontario is reminding everyone that it is the law to have a working smoke alarm in their trailer home, motor home and other recreational vehicle. In addition to smoke alarms, these homes, vehicles or boats used for sleeping should be equipped with a carbon monoxide alarm.

While many new trailer and RV models may already meet a construction standard requiring working smoke alarms, older models may not be equipped with any or they may not have been properly maintained. Smoke alarms should be tested before sleeping in any of these seasonal homes, then monthly and after any absence of more than a few days. Replace any smoke alarms that may be more than 10 years old.

Failure to comply with the applicable Fire Code smoke alarm requirements can result in a ticket for $235 or a fine of up to $100,000.

QUOTES

“The Ontario Fire Code requires every ‘dwelling unit’ in Ontario to have working smoke alarms on every storey and outside all sleeping areas,” explained Ted Wieclawek, Fire Marshal of Ontario. “What many people may not know is that the term ‘dwelling unit’ includes seasonal homes such as park model trailers, cabins and cottages and may include trailer homes, motor homes and other recreational vehicles”.

“Smoke alarms can alert you and give you and your family the precious time needed to safely escape a fire,” said Wieclawek. “Install smoke and carbon monoxide alarms in any structure where people may be sleeping or living.”

There’s no question that working smoke detectors save lives. Statistics from the Ontario Fire Marshall’s office indicate that in about 50% of fatal home fires, the victims had no smoke alarm
warning.

Effective March 1, 2006 every home in Ontario must have working smoke detectors on every storey of their home and outside of sleeping areas. This new law applies to single family homes, semi-detached homes and town homes that are either owner occupied or rented. Additionally, all smoke detectors must be replaced every ten years.

Fines for non-compliance by individuals range from $235.00 up to $50,000.00 and tenants can be fined for intentionally disabling smoke detector units.

The cost of a smoke detector combined with a carbon monoxide detector is about $60.00. At this price, and when you consider your own life and those of your family, it’s money well spent.

For more information about the new smoke detector law in Ontario visit the Ontario Fire Marshall’s website at http://www.ofm.gov.on.ca/.

I am amazed at the amount of homes in Barrie ON that have no smoke detectors or defective smoke detectors. Although there was a big “push” to ensure every home, and every level, has a working smoke detector during the initial implementation of the new law, there is no enforcement or education being conducted at the present time and the results are clearly visible with the amount of homes not having any or adequate protection.

Landlords in particular should ensure their rental units are complying with the smoke detector requirements to protect themselves and their tenants.

Smoke alarms are critical safety devices that have been in existence for at least 30 years, however, Ontarians still continue to die in homes without working smoke alarms. This is why the provincial campaign Working Smoke Alarms: Its the Law was developed. Ensuring homeowners, landlords and tenants of residential occupancies are aware of their responsibilities and comply with the smoke alarm requirements will significantly increase public safety in Ontario.

Posts Related to Smoke Detectors Required in RV’s and Trailers in Ontario

Ontario Home Builders’ Association – 2006 Building Code Changes

Real Estate

Ontario Home Builders’ Association – 2006 Building Code Changes.   Summary of Major Changes to Part 9 the Ontario Building Code 2006.

The following chart represents an overview of some of the major changes that will affect low-rise house construction. The
chart is laid out with the article number, title of the article and the wording of the article as it appears in the new 2006
Building Code.

Article Title Description
9.3.1.6. Compressive Strength (of concrete) (1) Except as permitted elsewhere in this Part, the compressive
strength of unreinforced concrete after 28 days shall not be less
than,
(a) 32 MPa for garage floors, carport floors and all exterior
flatwork
(b) 20 MPa for interior floors other than those for garages
and carports (eg: basement floor slabs & slabs on ground)
(c) 15 MPa for all other applications (eg: foundation walls)
(2) Concrete used for garage and carport floors and exterior steps
shall have air entrainment of 5 to 8%
9.4.2.2. Specified Design Snow Loads (1) Except as provided in sentences (2) and (3), specified snow
loads shall be not less than those calculated using the following
formula:
S = Cb x Ss + Sr
Where,
S = specified snow load,
Cb = basic snow load roof factor, which is 0.45 where the entire
width of a roof does not exceed 4.3m and 0.55 for all other
roofs,
Ss = 1-in-50 year ground snow load in kPa, determined according
to Supplementary Standard SB-1, and
Sr = associated 1-in-50 year rain load in kPa, determined
according to Supplimentary Standard SB-1.
(relaxed from 1-in-30 year storm to 1-in-50 year storm)
9.4.2.4. Attics and Roof Spaces (1) Ceiling joists or truss bottom chords in residential attic or roof
spaces shall be designed for a total specified load of not less
than 0.35 kPa, where the total specified load is the sum of the
specified dead load plus the specified live load of the ceiling and
where,
(a) the attic or roof spaces have limited accessibility that
precludes the storage of equipment or material, and
(b) the maximum attic height is not more than 1000mm
measured vertically from the top of the truss bottom chord to
the underside of the roof deck.
9.5.1.4. Combination Rooms (1) Two or more areas may be considered as a combination room if
the opening between the areas occupies the larger of 3m2 or
40% or more of the wall measured on the side of the dependant
area.
(2) Where the dependent area is a bedroom, direct passage shall
be provided between the two areas.
(3) The opening required in Sentence (1) shall not contain doors or
windows.
9.5.2
9.5.2.3.
<a href=”http://www.barriehomeinspector.com”target=”_blank”rel=”external”title=”Barrie Home Inspector” >Barrier-Free Design
Stud Wall Reinforcement
(1) If wood wall studs or sheet steel wall studs enclose the main
bathroom in a dwelling unit, reinforcement shall be installed to
permit the future installation of a grab bar on a wall adjacent to,
(a) a water closet in the location required by Clause
3.8.3.8.(1)(d), and
(b) a shower or bathtub in the location required by Clause
3.8.3.13.(1)(f).
Ontario Home Builders’ Association
2006.11.24
2
9.6.8.
9.6.8.6.
Resistance to Forced Entry
Fastening of Strikeplates
(1) Except as permitted in Article 9.6.8.10., strikeplates for
deadbolts described in Sentence 9.6.8.3.(1) shall be fastened to
wood frames with wood screws that penetrate not less than
30mm into solid wood
(2) Except as permitted in Article 9.6.8.10., strikeplates for
deadbolts described in Sentence 9.6.8.3.(1) shall be fastened to
metal frames with machine screws not smaller than No.8 and
not less than 10mm long.
9.6.8.9. Solid Blocking (1) Solid blocking shall be provided on both sides at the lock height
between the jambs for doors described in Sentence 9.6.8.1.(1)
and the structural framing so that the jamb will resist spreading
by force
9.7.
9.7.1.3.
Windows and Skylights
Bedroom Windows
(1) except where a door on the same floor level as the bedroom
provides direct access to the exterior, every floor level
containing a bedroom in a suite shall be provided with at least 1
outside window that,
(a) is openable from the inside without the use or tools
(b) provides an individual, unobstructed open portion having a
minimum area of 0.35m2 with no dimension less than
380mm, and
(c) maintains the required opening described in Clause (b)
without the need for additional support.
(2) except for basement areas, the window described in Sentence
(1) shall have a maximum sill height of 1000mm above the floor.
(3) When sliding windows are used, the minimum dimension
described in Sentence (1) shall apply to the openable portion of
the window.
9.7.5.3. Windows over Stairs, Ramps and
Landings
(1) Except as provided in Sentence (2), windows over stairs ramps
and landings that extend to less than 1070mm above the
surface to the treads, ramp or landing shall be,
(a) protected by guards, in accordance with Subsection 9.8.8., or
(b) non-openable and designed to withstand the specified lateral
loads for guards as provided in Articles 4.1.5.15. or 9.8.8.2.
(2) In dwelling units, windows over stairs, ramps and landings that
extend to less than 900mm above the surface to the treads,
ramp or landing shall be,
(a) protected by guards, in accordance with Subsection 9.8.8., or
(b) non-operable and designed to withstand the specified lateral
loads for guards as provided in Articles 4.1.5.15.or 9.8.8.2.
9.8.4.
9.8.4.1.
Step Dimensions
Uniformity and Tolerances for
Risers and Treads
(1) Except as provided in Sentence(2), risers shall have uniform
height in any one flight with a maximum tolerance of,
(a) 6mm between adjacent treads of landings, and
(b) 6mm between the tallest and shortest risers in a flight.
9.8.6.
9.8.6.2.
Landings
Required Landings
(1) except as provided in Sentence (2) to (4) and Sentence
9.9.6.6.(2), a landing shall be provided,
(a) at the top and bottom of each flight of interior and exterior
stairs, including stairs in garages,
(b) at the top and bottom of every ramp with a slope greater than
1 in 50, and
(c) where a doorway opens onto a stair or ramp.
(2) Where a door at the top of a stair in a dwelling unit swings away
from the stair, no landing is required between the doorway and
the stair.
(3) Except for an entrance from an attached garage, a landing may
be omitted at the top of an exterior stair serving a secondary
entrance to a single dwelling unit, provided,
(a) the stair does not contain more than 3 risers
(b) except as provided in Clause (c), the door is a sliding door or
swings away from the stair, and
(c) where a storm or screen door is provided, it may swing over
Ontario Home Builders’ Association
2006.11.24
3
the stair if it is equipped with hardware to hold it open.
(4) A landing may be omitted at the bottom of an exit stair or ramp
provided there is no obstruction, such as a gate or door, within
the lesser of the width of the stair or ramp or,
(a) 900mm for stairs or ramps serving a single dwelling unit, and
(b) 1100mm for stairs or ramps not serving a single dwelling unit.
9.8.7.5. Ergonomic Design (1) A clearance of not less than 50mm shall be provided between a
handrail and any surface behind it.
(2) All handrails shall be constructed so as to be continually
graspable along their entire length with no obstructions on or
above them to break a handhold, except where the handrail is
interrupted by newels at changes in direction.
9.8.7.7. Design and Attachment of Handrails (1) Handrails and any building element that could be used as a
handrail shall be designed and attached in such a manner to
resist,
(a) a concentrated load at any point of not less than 0.9kN, and
(b) for handrails other than those serving a single dwelling unit, a
uniformly distributed load of 0.7kN/m
(2) Where a handrail serving a single dwelling unit is attached to
wood studs or blocking, the attachment shall be deemed to
comply with Sentence (1) where,
(a) the attachment points are spaced not more than 1.2m apart,
(b) the first attachment point at either end is located not more
than 300mm from the end of the handrail, and
(c) the fasteners consist of not fewer than 2 wood screws at
each point, penetrating not less than 32mm into solid wood.
9.8.8.
9.8.8.1.
Guards
Required Guards
(3) When an interior stair has more than 2 risers or an interior ramp
rises more than 400mm, the sides of the stair or ramp and the
landing or floor level around the stairwell or ramp shall be
protected by a guard on each side that is not protected by a
wall. (i.e.: guards must be provided on BOTH sides of a stair to an unfinished
basement unless protected by a wall)
9.8.8.6. Design to Prevent Climbing (1) Guards required by Article 9.8.8.1., except those in industrial
occupancies and where it can be shown that the location and
size of openings do not represent a hazard, shall be designed
so that no member, attachment or opening will facilitate
climbing.
(2) Guards shall be deemed to comply with Sentence (1) where any
elements protruding from the vertical and located within the
area between 140mm and 900mm above the floor or walking
surface protected by the guard,
(a) are located more than 450mm horizontally and vertically from
each other,
(b) provide not more than 15mm horizontal offset,
(c) do not provide a toe-space more than 45mm horizontally and
20mm vertically, or
(d) present more than a 1-in-2 slope on the offset.
9.8.9.6. Finish for Treads, Landings and
Ramps
(1) Except as required in Sentence (4), the finish for treads,
landings and ramps shall be,
(a) wear resistant,
(b) slip resistant, and
(c) smooth, even, and free from open defects.
(2) The finish for treads and landings of interior stairs in dwelling
units, including those from an attached garage serving a single
dwelling unit, shall be deemed to comply with Sentence (1)
where these treads, landings, or ramps are finished with,
(i) hardwood,
(ii) vertical grain softwood,
(iii) resilient flooring,
(iv) low-pile carpet,
(v) mat finish ceramic tile,
(vi) concrete, or
(vii) for stairs to unfinished basements and to garages, plywood.
Ontario Home Builders’ Association
2006.11.24
4
9.10.9.16. Separation of Storage Garages (4) Where a storage garage is attached to or built into a building
of residential occupancy,
(a) an air barrier system conforming to Subsection 9.25.3.,
shall be installed between the garage and the remainder of
the building to provide an effective barrier to gas and
exhaust fumes, and
(b) every door between the garage and the remainder of the
building shall conform to Article 9.10.13.15.
(5) Where membrane materials are used to provide the required
airtightness in the air barrier system, all joints shall be sealed
and structurally supported.
9.10.14.
9.10.15.
Spatial Separation Between
Buildings
Spatial Separation Between Houses
(Two new ways of calculating limiting distances between buildings
and houses. For detached houses, can use either 9.10.14 or
9.10.15 (but not both)
9.10.16.3. Fire Stop Materials (2) In a building permitted to be of combustible construction,
semi-rigid fibre insulation board produced from glass, rock or
slag, is permitted to be used to block the vertical space in a
double-frame wall assembly formed at the intersection of the
floor assembly and the walls, provided the width of the vertical
space is not more than 25mm and the insulation board,
(a) has a density not less than 45 kg/m3,
(b) is securely fastened to one set of studs,
(c) extends from below the bottom of the top plates in the lower
storey to above the top of the bottom plate in the upper
storey, and
(d) completely fills the nominal gap of 25mm between the
headers and between the wall plates.
Table
9.15.4.2.B.
Reinforced Concrete Block
Foundation Walls
(New table to aid in specifying design for reinforced concrete block
foundations without having to design to Part 4.)
9.20.5.2 Lintels or Arches (New tables to specify beams and lintels for masonry support
without having to design to Part 4.)
9.15.
9.20.
Footings and Foundations
Masonry and Insulating Concrete
Form Walls Not in Contact with the
Ground
(New requirements to recognize and simplify the design and
installation of flat, insulating concrete forms.)
9.22.10.
9.22.10.2.
Fireplace Inserts and Hearth-
Mounted Stoves
Installation
(2) Fireplace inserts and hearth mounted stoves vented through
the throat of a fireplace described in Sentence (1) may be
installed in existing fireplaces only if a minimum thickness of
190mm of solid masonry is provided between the smoke
chamber and any existing combustible materials, unless the
insert is listed for lesser clearances.
(3) A fireplace insert installed in a masonry fireplace shall have,
(a) a listed metal chimney liner installed from under the insert
collar to the top of the chimney, or
(b) a direct sealed connection to the chimney flue where such
provision is part of an insert conforming to Sentence
9.22.10.1.(1).
Table
9.23.10.1.
Size and Spacing of Studs
(New table to ease the specification of studs and stud spacing in
different applications.)
9.26.3.
9.26.3.1.
Slope of Roof Surfaces
Slope
(4) Except where back-slope will not adversely affect adjacent
supported or supporting elements due to water ingress, roofs
and elements that effectively serve as roofs shall be
constructed with sufficient slope away from,
(a) exterior walls, and
(b) guards that are connected to the roof, or to an element that
effectively serves as a roof, by other than pickets and posts.
(5) The slope required in Sentence (4) shall be sufficient to
maintain a positive slope,
Ontario Home Builders’ Association
2006.11.24
5
(a) after expected shrinkage of the building frame, where these
surfaces are supported by exterior walls and on exterior
columns, and
(b) once design loading is taken into consideration, where these
surfaces are cantilevered from exterior walls.
9.27.
9.27.2.2
Cladding
Minimum Protection from
Precipitation Ingress
(1) Exterior walls exposed to precipitation shall be protected
against ingress of precipitation with an exterior cladding
assembly consisting of a first plane of protection and a second
plane of protection where the wall encloses spaces of
residential occupancy or spaces that directly serve spaces of
residential occupancy.
9.27.2.3. First and Second Planes of
Protection
(1) Where walls required to provide protection from precipitation
comprise assemblies with first and second planes of
protection,
(a) the first plane of protection shall,
(i) consists of cladding, with appropriate trim, accessory
pieces and fasteners, and
(ii) be designed and constructed to minimize the passage
of rain and snow into the wall by minimizing holes and
managing precipitation ingress caused by kinetic
energy of raindrops, surface tension, capillary, gravity,
and air pressure differences,
(b) the second plane of protection shall be designed and
constructed to,
(i) intercept all precipitation that gets past the first plane of
protection, and
(ii) effectively dissipate any precipitation to the exterior,
and
(c) the protection provided by the first and second planes of
protection shall be maintained at,
(i) wall penetrations created by the installation of
components and services such as windows, doors,
ventilation ducts, piping, wiring and electrical outlets,
and
(ii) the interface with other wall assemblies.
9.32.
9.32.1.1.
Ventilation
Application
(6) A clothes dryer exhaust duct system shall conform with Part 6.
Table
9.32.2.9.(4)
Fan Sound Rating (New table referencing HVI sound ratings for exhaust fans in
dwellings. The ratings have been relaxed slightly.)
9.32.3.12. Outdoor Intake and Exhaust
Openings
(10) Except for clothes dryers, exhaust outlets shall be fitted with
screens or mesh not larger than 15mm, except where climatic
conditions may require larger openings.
(11) Where a screen or grille required by Sentences (8) and (10)
has a screen mesh less than 6mm, the screen or grille shall be
removable for cleaning.
(12) The gross area of the screens or grilles installed in intake and
exhaust openings shall be three times that of the duct served.
(13) Screens and grilles shall be of corrosion-resistant material.
9.40.
9.40.1.1.
Reinforced Concrete Slabs
Application
(1) This Section applies to,
(a) reinforced concrete slabs that are suspended over cold
rooms in basements, and are supported by foundation walls
along the perimeter of the slab with no additional interior
supports and
(b) slabs in which the clear span between supporting walls is not
more than 2500mm along the shortest dimension of the slab.
(2) Slabs for conditions other than described in Sentence (1) shall
be designed in accordance with Part 4.
(3) This Section does not apply to reinforced concrete slabs
intended to support motor vehicles.
(Slabs over cold cellars not exceeding 2500mm no longer have to be designed by a
structural engineer. This section gives prescriptive requirements.)
Ontario Home Builders’ Association
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6
PART 12 Resource Conservation (Entire new Part of the Code to address energy conservation in
buildings.)
12.3.1.2. Equipment Efficiency for Buildings
of Residential Occupancy
(1) The minimum annual fuel utilization efficiency of a furnace
serving a building of residential occupancy shall conform to
Table 12.3.1.2. (Natural gas and Propane = 90%AFUE, Oil = N/A)
12.3.1.3. Residential Windows and Sliding
Glass Doors
(1) The energy rating and the overall coefficient of heat transfer
required for windows and sliding glass doors in a residential
occupancy shall be deemed in conformance with CAN/CSAA440.2,
“Energy Performance Evaluation of Windows and
Sliding Glass Doors”. (Generally, this will require low-E, argon-filled
casement units, but please discuss with your window supplier.)
Table
12.3.2.1.
Minimum Thermal Resistance of
Insulation to be Installed Based on
Degree-Day Zones
(Summary of Insulation Changes by Zone: )
Zone 1
Ceiling below attic or roof space increases from R-32 to R-40
Cathedral ceilings increase to R-28
Above grade walls increase from R-17 to R-19
Foundation walls increase from R-8 to R-12
Zone 2
Ceiling below attic or roof space increases from R-32 to R-40
Cathedral ceilings increase to R-28
Above grade walls increase from R-19 to R-24
Foundation walls increase from R-8 to R-12
Electrically Heated (Zone 1 & 2)
Ceiling below attic or roof space increases to R-50
Cathedral Ceilings increase to R-28
Above grade walls increase to R-29
Foundation walls increase to R-19
12.3.2.3. Thermal Resistance Values for Roof
and Ceiling Assemblies
(1) The thermal resistance values in Table 12.3.2.1. for exposed
roofs or ceilings may be reduced near eaves to the extent
made necessary by the roof slope and required ventilation
clearances, except that the thermal resistance of insulation at
the location directly above the inner surface of the exterior wall
shall be at least RSI 2.1.
12.3.2.4. Insulation of Foundation Walls (1) Sentence (2) applies to construction for which a permit has
been applied for before January 1, 2009.
(2) Foundation walls enclosing heated space shall be insulated
from the underside of the subfloor to not less than 600mm
below the adjacent exterior ground level.
(3) Sentence (4) applies to construction for which a permit has
been applied for after December 31, 2008.
(4) Foundation walls enclosing heated space shall be insulated
from the underside of the subfloor to not more than 380mm
above the finished floor level of the basement. (Near full-height
basement insulation required)
(5) The insulation required by Sentences (2) and (4) may be
provided by a system installed,
(a) on the interior of the foundation wall,
(b) on the exterior face of the foundation wall, or
(c) partially on the interior and partially on the exterior, provided
the thermal performance of the system is equivalent to that
permitted in Clauses (a) or (b).
(6) Insulation around concrete slabs-on-ground shall extend not
less than 600mm below exterior ground level.
12.3.2.6. Thermal Resistance of Windows (1) Except as permitted in Sentence (2), all windows that separate
heated space from unheated space shall have,
(a) an overall coefficient of heat transfer of not more than 2.0
W/m2.oC, or
(b) an energy rating of not less than,
(i) 17 for operable windows, and
(ii) 27 for fixed windows.
(2) A basement window that incorporates a loadbearing structural
frame shall be double glazed with a low-E coating.
Ontario Home Builders’ Association
2006.11.24
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12.3.2.7. Minimum Thermal Resistance of
Doors
(1) Except for doors on enclosed unheated vestibules and cold
cellars, and except for glazed portions of doors, all doors that
separate heated space from unheated space shall have a
thermal resistance of not less than RSI 0.7 where a storm door
is not provided.
(2) All sliding glass doors that separate heated space from
unheated space shall have
(a) an overall coefficient of heat transfer of not more than 2.0
W/m2.oC, or
(b) an energy rating of not less than 17.
12.3.3. Thermal Design for Buildings of
Residential Occupancy Within the
Scope of Part 9.
(This section allows for thermal design of houses outside of the
standard parameters of the above noted Sentences. This replaces
the former Section 9.38.)

Originally posted 2010-06-01 06:38:45. Republished by Blog Post Promoter

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Asphalt Shingles – Types and Use

Home Inspection

Asphalt Shingles – Types and Use.  Two types of asphalt shingles are used: organic and fiberglass or glass fiber. Organic shingles are generally paper (waste paper) saturated with asphalt to make it waterproof, then a top coating of adhesive asphalt is applied and ceramic granules are then embedded. In the case of algae-resistant shingles, a portion of the granules contain leachable copper ceramically coated, designed to protect against discoloration from algae on the roof. This does not protect from moss growth but does slow the growth. Moss feeds on algae and any other debris on the roof. Most manufactures offer a 5- to 10-year warranty against algae growth.

Shingles are judged by warranty and ASTM test standards. Organic shingles contain around 40% more asphalt per square (100 sq ft.) than fiberglass shingles. But this extra needed asphalt makes them less environmentally friendly. The paper-based nature of “organic” shingles leaves them more prone to fire damage, and their highest FM rating for fire is class “B”. Shingle durability is ranked by warranted life, ranging from 20 years to 50 years; in some cases lifetime warranties are available.

Fiberglass shingles have a base layer of glass fiber reinforcing mat. The mat is made from wet, random-laid fiberglass bonded with urea-formaldehyde resin. The mat is then coated with asphalt which contains mineral fillers and makes the fiberglass shingle waterproof. Fiberglass shingles typically obtain a class “A” fire rating as the fiberglass mat resists fire better than organic/paper mats. Fiberglass reinforcement was devised as the replacement for asbestos paper reinforcement of roofing shingles and typically ranges from 1.8 to 2.3 pounds/square foot.

The older organic (wood and paper pulp product) versions were very durable and hard to tear, an important property when considering wind uplift of shingles in heavy storms. Fiberglass is slowly replacing felt reinforcement in Canada and has replaced mostly all in the United States. Widespread hurricane damage in Florida during the 1990s prompted the industry to adhere to a 1700-gram tear value on finished asphalt shingles.

A newer design of fiberglass asphalt shingle, called laminated or architectural, uses two distinct layers which are bonded together with asphalt sealant. Laminate shingles are heavier, more expensive, and more durable than traditional 3-tab shingle designs. Laminated shingles also give a more varied, contoured visual effect to a roof surface.

Traditionally, asphalt — also called composition — shingles were made by saturating a heavy layer of building felt (made from organic fibers) with asphalt. These asphalt-felt shingles have largely been
supplanted by fiberglass-based shingles. Instead of building felt, they have a fiberglass base impregnated with the asphalt. These shingles are more durable and will last twice as long as the felt-based shingles. In addition to the asphalt coating, the shingles also have a layer of ceramic and hard mineral granules. This layer adds color to the roofing material, but its main function is to protect the asphalt base from the intense ultraviolet radiation of the sun. The asphalt-saturated base is relatively impervious to rain and snow, but without the mineral coating it would quickly break down when exposed to the sun.

People assume that most roof damage comes from the wind, rain and snow. Indeed, these elements eventually erode the granular coating from the shingles, but it is the intense heat of the sun that does the
real damage. Thus the longevity of the roof covering is often determined by the amount of sunlight it is exposed to. On many houses the shingles on the northern side of the roof last longer than those on the
southern side, because they receive less sunlight. For the same reason, houses in the Southern states usually need roof replacement before those in the Northern states.
Other than planting shade trees near the house, there is little you can do to shield your roof from the sun. You can, however, make sure that the attic remains cool so that heat cannot rise through the sheathing to attack the shingles. The best way to do this is by installing vents in the attic. Adding soffit and ridge vents, for example, will allow cool air to enter under the eaves, flow along the underside of the roof and exit at the peak. This circulating air can lower roof temperatures by up to 20 degrees.

The protective nature of asphalt shingles primarily comes from the long-chain hydrocarbons impregnating the paper. Over time in the hot sun, the hydrocarbons soften and when rain falls the hydrocarbons are
gradually washed out of the shingles and down onto the ground. Along eaves and complex roof lines more water is channeled so in these areas the loss occurs more quickly. Eventually the loss of the heavy
oils causes the fibers to shrink, exposing the nail heads under the shingle flaps. The shrinkage also breaks up the surface coating of sand adhered to the surface of the paper, and eventually causes the
paper to begin to tear itself apart. Once the nail heads are exposed, water running down the roof can seep into the building around the nail shank, resulting in rotting of roof building materials and causing
moisture damage to ceilings and paint inside.

Maintenance Tips – Protect Roof From Winter Damage

Real Estate

Maintenance Tips – Protect Roof From Winter Damage.  As the winters approach nearer, homeowners suffer a massive headache. You may need to call a professional roofer in case your ceiling has turned to mush and your gutters are tearing away from the house. Follow the given steps that are helpful in protecting your home from the harsh winters. Your safety must top the list of important to- dos. If you are unable to reach the roof easily, do not try to go further.

The major cause behind the build up of ice and snow on the roof is warm attic. If your house lacks proper insulation and ventilation, it lets the heat vanish from the roof through the attic. It allows te snow on the roof to melt on a faster rate that gives rise to formation of ice on the roof. It may clog the gutters and damage the roof.

To clear the snow from your roof, it is good to invest in a snow rake. Whenever a heavy storm occurs, it is suggested to clear the roof. Start from the top of the roof and move downwards. Be careful not to damage the shingles.

Heavy ice build up on the roof is a real threat, as it may result in heavy gutters that get ripped away quite easily. Use a hammer to carefully chip away the ice, if you are also going through the same phase.

Pressure builds up because of frozen water in the pipes, which may result in bursting of pipes. Pipes most vulnerable to freezing are the ones that are present in outside walls, attics and crawl spaces. To reduce the problem of frozen pipes, follow the given tips.

To slow down the heat transfer rate, fit exposed pipes with insulation sleeves or wrapping. High amount of insulation is always better. If there are holes and cracks in the outside walls, it is advised to fasten them with caulking, as soon as possible.

For the water to drain off easily, keep the drains and downspouts clean. Debris like twigs, dirt and leaves act as a hurdle in proper drainage. So it is important to clear the roof off all such things. Also remove any tree branches that might be resting on your roof.

It is important to regularly inspect and maintain your roof, especially in winter season. This way, you will not have to face a leak or a costly roof repair.

Scott Rodgers is a famous writer who has been writing on roofing since a long time now. His skill has given motivation to a lot of workers, ranging from Everett Roofers

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